Ftwelder

There is a lot of room between the flywheel and cover. Once the flywheel weight is correct Ill probably give it a shave. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

I had a little time toward the end of the day. I made a piece that held the frame by the foot peg mounts and fit in the vice jaws and started adding parts to the frame. I pressed the bearing races in and installed the WC machine TLR/Reflex fork clamp. They just started doing an alloy "threaded steering head" (the steel part hard to find) so I opted for one of those also. Works of art. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr I cleaned the paint off the components that get grounded and connected everything. I should give it a good whack and see if it still sparks. Next thing on the list is to make the assorted swing arm spacers from aluminum and get the back of the bike on. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Thanks for following along.

I bolted a few more pieces on the engine including intake and exhaust fittings. I have purchased a few shift levers and kickers so far and the only decent ones are OE. most of the ebay ones have been so poor they aren't functional. The stock one is well made but heavy. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr I made a gasket to fit my exhaust spigot with a special material to withstand the heat. It's a bit soft so I used hot glue to bond it to plywood then used a hole-saw to cut the hole and bandsaw to finish. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr My new spokes arrived from Buchanon. I asked for the spokes to allow the rim to be dished 6mm toward the brake. I had laced a couple wheels in the past and this one wasn't bad, just not my idea of fun. Truing is petty cool though. I started with the drum side down and the small side spokes tied into bundles to keep them out of the way. I resorted to bending some of the spokes to get them into place. It trued up nice and straight after a couple hours invested. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr My frame came back from paint and it looks great. It's a two-coat powder job with a chrome base with a second coat of candy teal with a metallic sparkle. This guy paints a lot of parts for me and is a motorcycle restoration enthusiast so he knows what is important. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

The rod came in so I rebuilt the crank. I used centers to hold the ends (ends in good shape) and put my indicator on the bearing surfaces and got it a little better that stock. I set the rod end play at .22mm and the the width across the wheels was spot on. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr I assembled the center cases and per suggestion installed the ignition with new a new spark plug a new coil and the only way I could spin the crank was the put the complete engine in a lathe with the ignition coil bolted to the case where the shift drum cover bolts on. I didn't get a spark at first and using a volt meter tested first the magneto (worked) then the CDI (also worked). I didn't want to stick the volt meter in the plug socket so I removed the new plug and put in an old dirty one and it worked! I have spark!! (photo taken during disassembly) Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Last shot before heading home for Christmas dinner. Merry Christmas! Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

Mostly suzuki with some Kawasaki and Bultaco mixed in. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

Not unlike my own,

The shocks are stock trail bike parts but operating at a very high leverage rate on what appears to be a slightly modified stock swing arm. It's certainly a home made job. Nice body work!

That would certainly be easier. Ill find something else to do while I wait for con rod to arrive!

My thoughts are that I may build a testing device that allows me to spin the fly wheel and run the magneto to see if I can make spark. It seems like a logical step and pretty easy to do in a lathe. It would be great to have ignition system that is known to be working. when I go to start it for the first time.

I wondered about that. Can one run those wires to a on/off switch and onto a small LED headlight? I have a rectifier also. I ran a test on my CDI unit and it failed. Based on my record of success with electrical issues, It's probably actually good. I also have one from a '76 PE250. I did a facetime session on two-stroke crank rebuilding (Thanks Scott!) and decided to do the crank myself and made a crank splitting fixture. It will fit 125mm crank wheels and a 50mm conrod. I added 160mm risers and a support on the backside. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr My riding buddies have been asking me how the bike will be branded once completed. I like this Suzuki Genuine Parts logo. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr After some tweaking. I hope Suzuki doesn't get mad. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

I installed the bearings in the cases and the one that supports the counter shaft at the sprocket is a tiny bit loose. No play but not tight. Ill use some sleeve retaining compound to tighten it up. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr One of the original coil mounts was missing so I deleted the remaining one and made two new ones. The tank tunnel is pretty narrow so I kept that in mind. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr The next thing is the ignition system. I am going to try to make two into one with each system. This will involve soldering, volts and other things that I don't understand. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr I have another with a good coil that I will attempt to splice in.

I chose the Takasago front rim which is 1/4 lb lighter than the DID but broke a couple spokes while dismantling. Because the Honda Reflex crowns are narrower than 84 KDX 250 I had to dish the wheel toward the drum by 7mm so I should order correct spokes. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Reading through the service manual I found inspection numbers for the big end bearing and mine is shot. I persuaded a cart racing buddy to rebuild my crank. He explained the process and offered to send some video. I should have done it myself but I am trying to stay focused. The cases have been repaired and I have never been keen on the look if of die cast parts so I ended up using a iron workers needle gun (at reduces air pressure) to blend the finish. My other options involved abrasive particles which are toxic to engines. I assume it will darken quite a bit. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr I need to restore the brackets that the electronics mount to and complete whatever frame details remain. I hope to have it done in 45 days. Not sure if I should work on the bike or work on making money to spend on the bike.

That is how I ended up with this combo in a round about way. I wanted to try 67.5 head angle with 60mm trail. I also wanted fork crowns that had rake. The RL suzuki has 2 degrees but total offset was a lot which reduced trail so I made a Honda head tube and welded it on, added custom CNC Honda crowns and put on a 35mm Betor with same offset I wanted but it's length was too short by about an inch (Honda has long head tube) . A buddy offered the NOS 32mm Betor shown recently with extended stanchion tubes. If the 32 is too soft or flexible I think I have the correct 35mm tubes to assemble a longer version from a later Mexican made Betor fork from a Rokon. I am flipping the brake to the left side. Much better thanks.

I don't know. I did it that way so the large part of the axle tightened to the bearing race not the brake plate but that isn't much of a reason. Ill look closer today.

I have three front MX rims, two are for conical so the third can't be easily used. They are all marked 1.6X21 but vary in outside width from 2.1" to 2.5" on the outside. with the narrowest one being 1.75" on the inside? What is typical? Why? Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

I worked on the front brake a bit. I had already relined the shoes with aggressive material and when setting the brake up ran into a few problems. The wheel dish was way off so I faced off the KDX brake plate to help solve the problem. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr I used a longer alloy rear arm which has poor alignment with adjustment point so the housing stop will be part of the anchor arm (This one was not well designed with some misalignment at the rear hole) Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr I also made a front axle from 1045 steel with alu cap. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Thanks for looking. I have some rim questions!

I have made more progress and thought I would share. I got the cylinder and head back from cleaning and they look pretty shiny. Ill probably need to age in dish soap get it looking better. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr I have been trying to educate myself on the workings of the crankshaft oiling system. I have my original crank (badly rusted) and another ebay crank assembly to work with. I removed the LH bearing from the ebay crank and recovered the oil slinger which seemed be damaged though I thought I was careful. I then had to resort to extreme measures to remove the bearing from the original crank. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr This evidence combined with the plastic seal that came on my new LH bearing (and no plastic seals in original bearing gave witness to a number of problems with the system (though it's clearly quite functional) The system takes a portion of the oil and introduces it to the intake stream (like pre-mix) and another ration is delivered to a bearing that deliverers raw oil to an exposed lower rod bearing. Once used the pure oil is flung around to various places depending on RPM and air movement. I don't see a need for any part of it if you delete all of it. I added a swail to the port wall to load the back of the bearing. I have seen this before. Ill make a new spacer to take up the end play. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

I carry a phone in my camelback while trail riding. I tipped over today and my boot went between the tire and swing arm and the bike pinned me down. One of my riding buddies was there to help me out but I was glad I had options.

I straightened the shifter shaft and filled the worn/gouged spots with silicon bronze, filed it down and machined a new "hole" to bond in the pocket. I lost a little bit of the OD of the shaft and got lucky finding an undersized reamer in the stash and got a good fit. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr I thought about using bronze for the bushing but it's soaking in gear oil so I passed. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr I may have mentioned I had found another used cylinder/piston in great shape and figured now was a good time to put it into play. I made a double-wall spigot to get a good pipe seal (a good bit of work) and set out to delete the original feature in the stock cylinder. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr I added a few layers of 4043 and hopefully didn't get any low spots. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Grind to taste! Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Inching closer! Thanks for looking.

I used a slide hammer, not the end of the bolt. 😁 and it came right out.

I drew up a flywheel weight that should fit in the space and add some inertia. Next thing was to add a port to lube the crank bearing. I opened up the forced oiling port a bit and drilled through from the transfer port to the stock forced oiling port. I hope it works. This it the work site. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr I drilled through to the original hole and created a funnel to guide some mix down the hole. It might work. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr I noticed so cracks around the shifter boss. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Exploring a bit it looks like the shifter took a big hit. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr I had a struggle removing the trans shaft bearing and ended up welding in a nut to attach a slide hammer. Yes. I tried the hydraulic method first. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr I guess I have to weld a boss inside the case to support the shift shaft.

That looks nice! wear a cyclist bib shorts under my pants but will probably go bareback before adding anything. I used a 3/8' thick closed cell neoprene floormat on the OSSA and it needs to be cut back..

That odd grey thing in the bottom right corner of the last image is a soft lead weight I use for a hammer on the motor internals.

The RL flywheel is the same as the other two except for the ring pressed on the outer circumference which makes the diameter about the same as my outer cover. I ground an old crank bearing to slip in the case bore to check mounting depth with a piece of modeling clay and I have around 19mm of side clearance so Ill draw something up and get a CNC lathe guy so spin up a weight that engages the TS 250 flywheel and mounts to the puller holes and is no larger than the stock flywheel. So now we know I can add weight and also make the motor narrower. All good. Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr Untitled by barnstormerbikes, on Flickr

I was thinking about using colored adhesive backed kitchen shelf paper for a saddle. That is pretty minimal! I have been weighing some of the original and what I am using and haven't made much progress weight-wise. The alloy body parts should help. The bike looks a little wide just below the saddle but the peg width is narrower than my current bike by 3" so Ill see. I am super tempted to assemble the rolling chassis at this point to see how it feels with pegs. I have been practicing leaning the bike myself and am only doing it in flatter turns right now on my stock 72 OSSA, possible because the head angle is quite slack perhaps 64 or so the steering ratio is quite slow when leaned on a hillside. I am 5'10", 165 lbs.