motosolex

Did all that. Noticed some tank crud on tank side of fuel filter. Carb bowl was not too bad. But I think you are correct about tank debris. Time for a tank coat. I think maybe some super small debris may be the culprit. Thinking too about crank seal job Thanks.

Yep already done. Complete carb rebuild. Used cleaner and air. Still same issue.

TY80A takes a few kicks to get her going. Would not idle well or at all. Screwed the air screw practically all the way in. Runs better. If the air screw is all the way in, does this forcibly mean the pilot jet (34) is too small? Thanks.

Big Shiney Bike. Thanks The Cota49 motor is based on the JLO/ILO G50 Piano. My son (baures PDX) and I split the case and it looks like the top end and clutch need a redo! Any good sources of parts for the G50? Also any technical info on the engine would be appreciated. Thanks.

Great info. If I recall (reed block not in sight), there is a rubber coating on reed block’s area where the reeds close. And you sand this away? Just want to be sure! Also, as far as I know, original reeds are in my TY175C Thanks!

Hey fellows. Fitting new TDR reeds and the RD350 Intake Manifold onto my 175C. What mods are considered good on the existing TY175C Airbox for better air flow. Jetting issues from the mods? I have a 27.5 pilot jet available to replace the 25. And,....any tips on sandpaper-ing the reed cage ? thanks.

Excellent tips. Any issues with the carb hitting up against anything? Any pictures since this was posted? thanks.

We have spark! After basically rebuilding the whole stator and re-wireing plus new fasteners and a Ducati Energia CDI....we have a nice spark. Now a few fitment issues and she ought to go. Thanks to all the inputs from all of you! attached a nice flywheel timing picture

Yep got you. It’s a methodical learning experience for my son and I, who are new at this. And, if nothing else, our experience will serve as a guide for the next person that’s interested and learning to deal with vintage bikes of this sort.

Flywheel is off. The stator area was coated with a powdery-like corrosion. The plate mounting screws all needed to be extracted with success. The coils’ M4 (very hard metal!) screws all need to be drilled out, proving to be rather difficult. LT coil ohms reading is 693 Pick-up ohms is 40. Basically the stator plate needs to be rebuilt and rewired. Any ideas on removing these small screws (even a new left hand bit wouldn’t penetrate) and ohm readings? thank you.

Ever get it situated? We are similarly working out a 240Pro no sparker. Any pointers from your experience appreciated.

Thanks for all the tips. Excellent info. Thank you F240Motor. We have the puller ordered and as soon as we pull the f/w we will update our progress.

ScotTaco. I figured what you meant. Thanks for your help!!!!

Ok. Thanks ScotTaco. I’d appreciate a picture of the hook up. Gracias.