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About johnnyjazz

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    New york

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  1. johnnyjazz

    Changing Steering Head Bearings advice/info.

    All sorted and done, thanks all. confidence growing more with each job! i found that with a length of old pipe the bottom original race, when inverted on the stem was the perfect fit to drive the new lower roller cage home symmetrically. the lower original came off pretty effortlessly which was a pleasant surprise. thanks again TC for being such a great resource of knowledge and wisdom and for helping us novices learn!
  2. johnnyjazz

    Changing Steering Head Bearings advice/info.

    thanks ric h! im just concerned that the tapered lower race for the top on the all balls kit is larger than the original lower race. it sticks out a wee bit more than the recess allows. is this is a biggie or is this why tony27 had to leave off the dust cap? thanks for the confirmation that they are shot though, out with the old in with the new!
  3. johnnyjazz

    Changing Steering Head Bearings advice/info.

    Thanks for all your help peeps! i have the new all balls kit on hand but after taking the head stock apart today i was again surprised to find relatively little wear. now, that said,i'm no expert! this is where you guys who know this stuff much better could tell me...is it better to re grease and re use the originals if they are still ok or should i just use the new kit anyway and not put the dust seal on top to allow for the extra clearance? the races look pretty nice and shiny, bottom esp looks sweet but top is dubious in one spot...what do you think given the time to take off bottom lower cage? thanks again so much in advance! (first 2 pics are bottom bearing, last 3 top.)
  4. hello dear cyber friends, so moving onto replacing steering head bearings now (74TYa). Are there any top tips or special tools i should think about or read up on before embarking on this (for me) cryptic conundrum of mechanical mastery. are there any surprises replacing the original old ball and race with the new tapered kit? this vid got me a wee bit nervous... ive watched many vids online but they're all big road bikes, and i've searched the forum and found a few things, but if i'm missing a useful thread and this has been covered before please direct me there! im just looking for a basic walk through on procedure if different/easier on a TY. -for reference purposes, curious how long this job would take an experienced pro? id rather ask here first as i know time spent on reconnaissance is seldom wasted and id prefer to get it right first time. thanks so much in advance for and help/guidance. i know typing replies takes time so i'm in your debt always. humbly, johnny
  5. johnnyjazz

    Novice question about adjusting preload

    As always, thank you for your time and effort in this stuff feetupfun yes, that was me standing on the pegs, not sitting. i know i can hear the chorus chanting WTF?..just get a road bike you baffoon...why would you ride a TY around the city? that's not what it was made for! i fully understand that. i'm looking at a new bonneville t100 or scrambler shortly but really need the wifes permission and esp good vibes for bike two -not forthcoming right now-...(why would you need two bikes etc) my desired end result is to just make a nice time capsule and put the bike away for my son as an investment. thanks again feetupfun, really makes me happy to know i can just leave them alone. interesting point that jumped to mind tho...if a ty250a with a seated rider will bottom out the shocks at 30mph, i wonder if that was in part due to the failure of the 'long seat trail' cat model? ive learnt the TY was very unsuccessful in the US market. as a pleasant anecdote tho (rare these days), the two stroke scooter shop whose owner kindly does my inspection/mot recently told me his uncle was the head of yamaha canada in the 70s and was a team rider and had great success on the bike. outlaw dave is his name...maybe some of you know him?..it is a small world. anyway, i'll crawl back under my shell for now.....steering bearings next, tho if the swing arm slid out effortlessly im presuming they're ok but why not check em anyway?..... again, to reiterate and defend myself against a few borderline condescending comments in some of my other posts, i do take the point that 'if it ain't broke don't fix it', but also am well aware that if you want to learn to swim you actually need to get in the pool at some point and get wet. i set myself the goal of wanting to learn and educate myself about how engines work, ultimately 4 stroke road bikes to save in horrific and abhorrent mechanic prices in NY (many well over $100 an hr for basic maintenance). Everyone said a two stroke single was a great place to start and the TY250A was the first bike i learnt on in 1986 so when one turned up out of the blue i just impulsively pulled the trigger on it as it was on my doorstep. I just figured do it all now while i have access to a workshop, tools, free gas and storage etc through my job. So far every bit of work i have undertaken on the bike has been a success so my confidence is growing at this stuff. i did manage to make a stand i was quite pleased with too...my back feels better already! best always, johnny
  6. johnnyjazz

    Novice question about adjusting preload

    oh brothers, my ineptitude at this stuff is getting embarrassing. I'm sorry. if pictures speak louder than words then maybe you can tell me if this looks ok? i used the rear fender as a point of fixed reference and the nut on the shockie as the other. first me off, second me on. i just want it to be right. i went over a speed bump in the city today at 30mph and im sure it bottomed out. am i asking way too much of 40lbs falcons in NYC traffic? you guys are the best. thank you.
  7. johnnyjazz

    Novice question about adjusting preload

    Thanks shakennstirred. so ive done all my measurements (finally) and i only appear to have 5mm of static sag. they are brand new 40lb falcons on the middle setting on a 1974 ty250a. by stiffening up the pre load will that get me nearer the desired 10mm. my intuition tells me to soften tho to increase static sag?...is this one of those smaller oil ratios=richer mix things? not my area of expertise, obviously. Thanks so much!
  8. johnnyjazz

    Novice question about adjusting preload

    Thank you always so much feetupfun for your insightful knowledge and kindly shared advice. Coming here is like going to school and i am humbled and grateful to have this forum and you all as my tutors! i know it takes time to reply to a question -and i've asked a lot- so again deep gratitude, deep joy and the brightest of moments to you!
  9. johnnyjazz

    Novice question about adjusting preload

    mechanical maestros, if you could tolerate yet another question from the ignoramus..... i realized at 160lbs (72kg) i'm on the border between 40 and 50 lb springs. maybe i should have got 50 lbs as i ride mostly road here in NYC but i went with 40lbs on the new falcons as that's what the guy sent me from the UK. i know the 40lbs are perfect for trials use however now methinks maybe i need to set them on max pre load as they seem a tad soft. im used to the thread/tool adjuster and the original step adjuster type pre loads, but not sure what the procedure is for these cir-clips? no doubt its super easy and you're all laughing, but i don't want to damage them! ... just not sure how to release them and move them down... -also, if i did step up to 50lbs spring (im not getting any smaller) would going to 345mm or 350mm necessitate a change to front end or is 340mm the way to go on the TY? many thanks as always my cyber trials friends. best regards from the headquarters of overpriced living and $1 pizza! johnny
  10. johnnyjazz

    Advice/thoughts on top end and clutch. 74 TY250A

    thanks feetup fun! you the best. yes, now that you point it out..of course! thanks for helping me figure it . the bike came with the long seat and long brake pedal, so it figures it could have had the trail kit pegs fitted. someone must've taken them off and kept the longer spindle. i see i can pick up those foot peg lowering brackets still...though im assuming down and forward isnt the best for trials, would it be more down and back? - though seeing as the ol beaut is street legal and 90% riding i do is on road maybe it might make it better sense? - though probably make much more sense to get a decent road/trail bike! haha great to know inner bush isnt wierd and no shims isnt a problem if i dont need them. thanks always man. really!
  11. johnnyjazz

    Advice/thoughts on top end and clutch. 74 TY250A

    hi feetupfun/anyone else, i took your suggestion and today inspected the swing arm for wear. the bolt and steel inner bush just slid right out (thankfully) but i noticed a few things on the way and am just curious. i know there's no such thing as a silly question and we are all ignorant about something, so if you might indulge me.... i noticed there were no shim/spacers in the thrust covers...does that matter? also noticed i seem to have two extra lipped washers that don't seem to be listed in my parts manual (top far right in pic). they go at either end of the swing arm bolt on the outside of the frame. is this normal or has someone done something- should that bolt be up against the frame? and lastly, i noticed my inner steel bush has holes in it. i can see how this would help distribute the grease, but in my parts manual the bush looks solid as it does on tytrials website of their swing arm replacement kit. wondering did someone do this themselves or was this standard? maybe its all exactly as it should be or maybe not...but i'm certainly no expert! learning so much on here from you all. as always pics attached and many many thanks!!!
  12. johnnyjazz

    TY250 1974

    Geof, mine is the 26mm OKO .im still learning about jetting, so im sure some others are way more savvy than me to your question re altitude issues , but i do know that mid atlantic trials has great customer service and will help you get it running right. mine worked fine straight out the box here in NY and did come with spare jets and extensive instructions on set up, but im sure they will provide you with everything you need if its something special. but man, i nearly dropped $75 on a new slide alone for an original TK oem...ouch. but feetupfun steered me to the OKO and i read on here from a wise elder of the trials tribe that a new carby on a 44 yr old bike is never a bad thing! and the OKO is crispy clean with a D slide rather than a round one and the peace of mind everything is new and fresh is worth a lot!
  13. johnnyjazz

    TY250 1974

    hola, im a beginner at this stuff, so please take my suggestion as such. but from the fantastic info on this site i replaced my original 74 tk carby with an OKO. it runs awesome!!! the cost of replacing parts for the original was getting out of hand and it was still running rich., i got mine off eebs from mid atlantic trials who were great to deal with. it seems a perfect fit (to me anyway) and for a $115 cant go wrong. (i just put the original TK in a box for if and when i sell the bike). hope that helps! best, johnny here is the link.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-TY-250-OKO-Carburetor-Kit/113198094760?hash=item1a5b21d9a8:g:YVsAAOSwlsda9fDS
  14. Hello esteemed, revered and acclaimed masters of mechanical know how! i have found tillerman6's posts/replies enlightened learning and would like to thank you all for your input. Thank you sincerely as no here (in NYC) even seems to know what a trials bike is! so question 1, as a noob who is trying to get more confident, i was feeling inspired to try and do a top end tear down and learn more about the piston/chamber etc and at least assess current conditions and hopefully allow me to feed the addiction of buying new parts if needed and replacing (or stashing for later)... having already asked on here about the oil seals, and been encouraged to go down the route of 'if it ain't broke don't fix it'...i am wondering should i apply the same philosophy to the top end as i did a compression test today and got exactly 7.0kg/cm2 as per the manual. (fyi, it had been idling for about 10 mins so was warm and i kicked it 5 times without adding any oil to the chamber) deep down i feel to leave it alone even though i want to learn more..... question 2, when taking the clutch cover off, i noticed the friction plates looked like they were rusty.. is this normal? the clutch feels and works fine and the bike was stored inside for the last 30 years with only little farm use from new...could it be feasible...gasp...that its actually still ok or is it likely i should replace the springs at least? i want to measure the thickness of the clutch plates/springs as per the manual but am curious if getting the clutch apart is something that a noob could tackle and does it need the clutch holding tool just to check the plates? again, thanks all so much for your help. And tillerman6, god bless ya man...riding out into the sunset on ol' mellow yellow 70 years young....i hope it goes well getting your new piston sorted. best wishes from a sweltering NY johnny few pics for you.
  15. johnnyjazz

    Any life left in this gas tank? rust repair question...

    this is the inside...but like you say, more trouble than its worth. i quite like the look of that all in one seat/tank unit from ShedWorks if i start getting better and riding more aggressively.... i appreciate the guidance!