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Everything posted by johnnyjazz

  1. Thanks David, really appreciate your succinct and as always incredibly knowledgeable advice! not that i have any intention of messing with it, but glad to know it's as it should be. Methinks i just got a wee bit confused looking at the parts pic where i couldn't see those holes that were drilled, and it seemed that the nuts holding the steel band on look recessed in the parts pic whereas on my mike they seem to protrude from the band hence making me wonder if something had been removed. i was researching the threads on here about TY flywheels and they spoke about removing a steel band so good to know what that actually means now! on an aside, i see a lot of people talking about the modification of electronic ignitions... am I correct in thinking that the general consensus is that the TY250A isn't a bike that benefits greatly from this and the original ignition system is perfect (esp. if road legal with lights etc)? Not that i am seeking to perform this upgrade as my bike runs great, more just curious as to whether it is beneficial from a performance perspective. I'm also presuming the more upgrades one makes like that it lessens the value of the bike from an 'original' standpoint? many thanks always...i continue to learn so much! very best from NYC and hope all is well down there in the Antipodes
  2. Hello friends, Having read on here about the modifications people do to the weight of the flywheel to affect performance, could someone comment if my flywheel has been adjusted or if this is standard? it appears to have some holes drilled in it and doesn't look exactly like the pic in the parts manual. i know the previous owner was serious enough to swap the front 14 tooth sprocket to a 12 so I'm curious as to whether the flywheel was modified also or is standard. And would someone be kind enough to briefly recap the difference between a heavier or lighter flywheel and the effect it has on the bikes performance? (I'm still a little unsure) with many thanks in advance and very best wishes from NYC, Johnny
  3. Agreed! Feet up fun has helped me so much. we are so lucky to have someone not only with so much expertise but someone so gracious and generous in their sharing of it! -and of course shout outs and big ups to all the other wonderful posters here too who are awesome in their legendary contributions that help us all learn. thanks so much guys! deep gratitude.
  4. Sorry to revive an old thread, but wondering is the lubricating of contact heels something that should be done on a regular basis? if so, how often is it recommended for optimum longevity? sorry for naive question but i wasn't aware aware the necessity to do this. i think my bike still has the original contacts, so its probably long overdue! many thanks in advance.
  5. Hope im not violating any forum rules by posting (please delete if i am) but from a historical collectors perspective the price blew my mind...In case you missed it..from last month at a bike auction in Vegas..Granted they're pristine concours rebuilds but to see them actually sell for this $$s...crazy! i guess some people have very deep pockets... -wife didn't think much of my TY project till she saw this...now she wants to help polish it!
  6. I believe my 74 TY still has the original reeds...is it advisable to change them for the reason stated? and is it usage or simply the passage of time that would necessitate their replacement? thanks always, i learn so much here
  7. Some of the pump gas over here is just so awful with up to 20% ethanol added...i know its a bit more expensive but i found my '74 Ty250 loves this stuff (fully synthetic) and runs like a dream!
  8. ...one here in long island...NY https://newhaven.craigslist.org/mcy/d/east-meadow-1982-vintage-swm-trials/6771451918.html
  9. Thanks so much again friends, appreciate all guidance. the shed is actually solid with a good roof that doesn't leak.. i dint know as i hadn't spent enough time up there, but turns out there is some kind of natural spring in the garden that combined with when it rains heavily causes the whole garden to turn to mush. the shed only has a soil floor with paving slabs laid down so the water is coming up from under those. it is on my project list this summer to sort it out properly and spend some money and time on it in exchange for....drum roll please.....being allowed to bring her inside and tuck the bike away upstairs! hallelujah very happy and very lucky to have such great in laws and wife's dad even helped me hump it up the stairs, bless him! so turns out i now have my own motorcycle museum...hooray! though interestingly even a month in those conditions had started to show wear on the bike in places. super glad i didn't vacillate in my efforts to remedy things. i will crawl back under my rock now and re emerge here in the spring when it doesn't start or nothing works and i need more help..til then, thanks again for being an awesome cyber family that a jazz musician from NY crazy enough to buy a trials bike can turn to for advice! johnny
  10. Hello friends, the mechanical ignoramus here again from Brooklyn NY. please bear with me as im sure you are fed up with me asking for advice, but time spent on reconnaissance is seldom wasted and if there's no such thing as a silly question etc... having followed all the sagacious insights from you all in my last post about winter storage, i was a bit saddened to find out the in-laws shed where i now keep the bike floods when it rains heavily leaving about 3-4" of standing water for a day or two until it drains. i deliberately raised it up about 6" off the ground on plywood and put some thick plastic sheeting underneath so the bike isn't directly in contact with the water, but i'm aware that its a fairly damp wet environment esp' at the moment as its been raining a lot. i wish i knew more about this stuff myself but am limited in my knowledge of trying to preserve vintage bikes nicely. in my earlier post someone had said words to the effect of chuck em under the porch in the rain and 'she'll be 'right they're built for it' kinda thing, but i also read feetupfun saying these conditions will destroy bearings/seals in no time and a 2T is more susceptible to damage than a 4T (curious as to why that is?)... i gave her a brief spray down with wd40 on exposed parts but wondering is a thick coating of Vaseline better to avoid corrosion? and which parts are most likely to rust first so i can keep an eye on them when i next go and check as i wasn't able to look over new years when i was there as it was raining really hard and the shed was wet. its been there about a month now. am i being super paranoid or should i be concerned? i've worked so hard (and learnt so much) coming here to help restore the bike and get it road legal etc and i really dont want to ruin it with 4 months storage in the wrong conditions. i just want to preserve a time capsule for my son to have one day. the shed is well ventilated so the conditions on the inside generally reflect the outside. a heated storage unit here for bikes runs about $150pm which is a little steep for me right now so the only other option is to see if the mother in law would let me keep in inside. it would have to go upstairs in wife's old bedroom and even then not ideal as id have to get it upstairs (on my own) and then say yes to everything she asks of me and agree with her about anything...maybe that's a good trade off to keep the bike nice? are there any issues or concerns about keeping a bike inside? obviously id drain the fuel but is there anything else i should do? my fear though is once its inside its never coming out and i know we need to ride em not hide em. what would you more knowledgeable folk recommend? as always i'm humbled in the shadow of your expertise and i know so little id rather ask and be ridiculed than not ask at all. the last TY i had was in 1986, cost 250quid and left it at my mates farm in the barn and at 12 years old i had slightly different concerns in life than now and obviously i've got a wee bit more into this one! pics enclosed of finished bike, shed, bike in shed and last one shows how much standing water collects in the back corner when it rains. thank you all so much for any advice, comments or criticism and humbly yours from the land of over priced rent and $1 pizza johnny
  11. haha! classic ...(had to look it up tho as i never saw it but thanks for the heads up!)
  12. wow! Thanks so much friends. awesome advice dpyam, i use similiar to aspen fuel (pic attached) ..and section swept, classic man, awesome. you got me thinking about taking her apart and seeing if could wangle the in laws to put it in the living room...haha! but the beauty of westchester (1hr north manhattan) is the riding is much better and a lot less traffic lights so the idea of being able to jump on her and ride is a huge plus of putting her there (ride em dont hide em, right?)..plus the inlaws dont have any w/shop space otherwise id really consider stripping her down- hell, i even asked the wife if i could keep her in our brooklyn 1 bed apt. hmmm...you can imagine the response! Bmonk, how much oil would you squirt in the plug hole? like 5mils? if you could define 'liberal amount' that'd be great. i only got her as an investment for my son who likes the idea of having a vtg trials bike when he's older. i think the bank gives me 0.1% on my savings so i figured a real nice TY would give me a better return than that! one just turned up on my doorstep so i don't want to waste all my hard work and return to a rust bucket! the last trials bike i had that i had to store outside was a fantic 240 in 1985! i was only 11 so don't remember much about it- other than i sold it for 300quid, prollly rusty! and breagh, brother, right now the thought of escaping the world headquarters of consumerism,materialism and capitalism and moving to east Scotland to build a porch would be just what id like to do with my life! (spent many happy hours in the highlands) sadly, wifey works in the NY fashion world so not sure what she'd do there...i did suggest she could get into trials and fishing perhaps, maybe learn the bagpipes?....very large eye roll. oh well.... best vibes to all and thanks so much again! johnny
  13. Hello esteemed and revered friends! so i finally got the ol' girl all finished (74 TY250a), with many many thanks to all you on here i'm deep in gratitude. So I recently left my job where i kept/worked on my bike (i'm onto bigger/better things) but sadly lost the indoor semi heated storage facilities. so now its the in-laws unheated garden shed in upstate NY! seeing as the winters here are super cold and brutal and i have a few other things on, I've decided to put her away till next spring when i have a bit more time to enjoy her Ive looked at many vid's on line regarding winter storage and there seems to be some confusion about whether to drain the tank or fill it up totally. what would you guys recommend for an old twinshock? ive only run Non ethanol gas with synthetic pre mix at 50/1 since new oko carb...should i put a bit of 40/1 through the engine before storage..and is fogging necessary? the tank has been red koted so i dont think rust is an issue. but i should drain the carb or leave gas in there? sorry to be such a noob!! and the only other concern i have is the freezing colds affect on the vinyl seat. is that an issue cracking? i plan to wrap her up really good (though read about bike sweats and got nervous) and keep the wheels off the ground, ive just changed the oil too...but if im missing anything else from you experts who have done this a million times id appreciate any pointers! thanks so much in advance and all best for a while, johnny
  14. All sorted and done, thanks all. confidence growing more with each job! i found that with a length of old pipe the bottom original race, when inverted on the stem was the perfect fit to drive the new lower roller cage home symmetrically. the lower original came off pretty effortlessly which was a pleasant surprise. thanks again TC for being such a great resource of knowledge and wisdom and for helping us novices learn!
  15. thanks ric h! im just concerned that the tapered lower race for the top on the all balls kit is larger than the original lower race. it sticks out a wee bit more than the recess allows. is this is a biggie or is this why tony27 had to leave off the dust cap? thanks for the confirmation that they are shot though, out with the old in with the new!
  16. Thanks for all your help peeps! i have the new all balls kit on hand but after taking the head stock apart today i was again surprised to find relatively little wear. now, that said,i'm no expert! this is where you guys who know this stuff much better could tell me...is it better to re grease and re use the originals if they are still ok or should i just use the new kit anyway and not put the dust seal on top to allow for the extra clearance? the races look pretty nice and shiny, bottom esp looks sweet but top is dubious in one spot...what do you think given the time to take off bottom lower cage? thanks again so much in advance! (first 2 pics are bottom bearing, last 3 top.)
  17. hello dear cyber friends, so moving onto replacing steering head bearings now (74TYa). Are there any top tips or special tools i should think about or read up on before embarking on this (for me) cryptic conundrum of mechanical mastery. are there any surprises replacing the original old ball and race with the new tapered kit? this vid got me a wee bit nervous... ive watched many vids online but they're all big road bikes, and i've searched the forum and found a few things, but if i'm missing a useful thread and this has been covered before please direct me there! im just looking for a basic walk through on procedure if different/easier on a TY. -for reference purposes, curious how long this job would take an experienced pro? id rather ask here first as i know time spent on reconnaissance is seldom wasted and id prefer to get it right first time. thanks so much in advance for and help/guidance. i know typing replies takes time so i'm in your debt always. humbly, johnny
  18. As always, thank you for your time and effort in this stuff feetupfun yes, that was me standing on the pegs, not sitting. i know i can hear the chorus chanting WTF?..just get a road bike you baffoon...why would you ride a TY around the city? that's not what it was made for! i fully understand that. i'm looking at a new bonneville t100 or scrambler shortly but really need the wifes permission and esp good vibes for bike two -not forthcoming right now-...(why would you need two bikes etc) my desired end result is to just make a nice time capsule and put the bike away for my son as an investment. thanks again feetupfun, really makes me happy to know i can just leave them alone. interesting point that jumped to mind tho...if a ty250a with a seated rider will bottom out the shocks at 30mph, i wonder if that was in part due to the failure of the 'long seat trail' cat model? ive learnt the TY was very unsuccessful in the US market. as a pleasant anecdote tho (rare these days), the two stroke scooter shop whose owner kindly does my inspection/mot recently told me his uncle was the head of yamaha canada in the 70s and was a team rider and had great success on the bike. outlaw dave is his name...maybe some of you know him?..it is a small world. anyway, i'll crawl back under my shell for now.....steering bearings next, tho if the swing arm slid out effortlessly im presuming they're ok but why not check em anyway?..... again, to reiterate and defend myself against a few borderline condescending comments in some of my other posts, i do take the point that 'if it ain't broke don't fix it', but also am well aware that if you want to learn to swim you actually need to get in the pool at some point and get wet. i set myself the goal of wanting to learn and educate myself about how engines work, ultimately 4 stroke road bikes to save in horrific and abhorrent mechanic prices in NY (many well over $100 an hr for basic maintenance). Everyone said a two stroke single was a great place to start and the TY250A was the first bike i learnt on in 1986 so when one turned up out of the blue i just impulsively pulled the trigger on it as it was on my doorstep. I just figured do it all now while i have access to a workshop, tools, free gas and storage etc through my job. So far every bit of work i have undertaken on the bike has been a success so my confidence is growing at this stuff. i did manage to make a stand i was quite pleased with too...my back feels better already! best always, johnny
  19. oh brothers, my ineptitude at this stuff is getting embarrassing. I'm sorry. if pictures speak louder than words then maybe you can tell me if this looks ok? i used the rear fender as a point of fixed reference and the nut on the shockie as the other. first me off, second me on. i just want it to be right. i went over a speed bump in the city today at 30mph and im sure it bottomed out. am i asking way too much of 40lbs falcons in NYC traffic? you guys are the best. thank you.
  20. Thanks shakennstirred. so ive done all my measurements (finally) and i only appear to have 5mm of static sag. they are brand new 40lb falcons on the middle setting on a 1974 ty250a. by stiffening up the pre load will that get me nearer the desired 10mm. my intuition tells me to soften tho to increase static sag?...is this one of those smaller oil ratios=richer mix things? not my area of expertise, obviously. Thanks so much!
  21. Thank you always so much feetupfun for your insightful knowledge and kindly shared advice. Coming here is like going to school and i am humbled and grateful to have this forum and you all as my tutors! i know it takes time to reply to a question -and i've asked a lot- so again deep gratitude, deep joy and the brightest of moments to you!
  22. mechanical maestros, if you could tolerate yet another question from the ignoramus..... i realized at 160lbs (72kg) i'm on the border between 40 and 50 lb springs. maybe i should have got 50 lbs as i ride mostly road here in NYC but i went with 40lbs on the new falcons as that's what the guy sent me from the UK. i know the 40lbs are perfect for trials use however now methinks maybe i need to set them on max pre load as they seem a tad soft. im used to the thread/tool adjuster and the original step adjuster type pre loads, but not sure what the procedure is for these cir-clips? no doubt its super easy and you're all laughing, but i don't want to damage them! ... just not sure how to release them and move them down... -also, if i did step up to 50lbs spring (im not getting any smaller) would going to 345mm or 350mm necessitate a change to front end or is 340mm the way to go on the TY? many thanks as always my cyber trials friends. best regards from the headquarters of overpriced living and $1 pizza! johnny
  23. thanks feetup fun! you the best. yes, now that you point it out..of course! thanks for helping me figure it . the bike came with the long seat and long brake pedal, so it figures it could have had the trail kit pegs fitted. someone must've taken them off and kept the longer spindle. i see i can pick up those foot peg lowering brackets still...though im assuming down and forward isnt the best for trials, would it be more down and back? - though seeing as the ol beaut is street legal and 90% riding i do is on road maybe it might make it better sense? - though probably make much more sense to get a decent road/trail bike! haha great to know inner bush isnt wierd and no shims isnt a problem if i dont need them. thanks always man. really!
  24. hi feetupfun/anyone else, i took your suggestion and today inspected the swing arm for wear. the bolt and steel inner bush just slid right out (thankfully) but i noticed a few things on the way and am just curious. i know there's no such thing as a silly question and we are all ignorant about something, so if you might indulge me.... i noticed there were no shim/spacers in the thrust covers...does that matter? also noticed i seem to have two extra lipped washers that don't seem to be listed in my parts manual (top far right in pic). they go at either end of the swing arm bolt on the outside of the frame. is this normal or has someone done something- should that bolt be up against the frame? and lastly, i noticed my inner steel bush has holes in it. i can see how this would help distribute the grease, but in my parts manual the bush looks solid as it does on tytrials website of their swing arm replacement kit. wondering did someone do this themselves or was this standard? maybe its all exactly as it should be or maybe not...but i'm certainly no expert! learning so much on here from you all. as always pics attached and many many thanks!!!
  25. Geof, mine is the 26mm OKO .im still learning about jetting, so im sure some others are way more savvy than me to your question re altitude issues , but i do know that mid atlantic trials has great customer service and will help you get it running right. mine worked fine straight out the box here in NY and did come with spare jets and extensive instructions on set up, but im sure they will provide you with everything you need if its something special. but man, i nearly dropped $75 on a new slide alone for an original TK oem...ouch. but feetupfun steered me to the OKO and i read on here from a wise elder of the trials tribe that a new carby on a 44 yr old bike is never a bad thing! and the OKO is crispy clean with a D slide rather than a round one and the peace of mind everything is new and fresh is worth a lot!
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