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About raygrilli

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    New Member

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  • Bike
    Gas Gas 2002 TXT Pro

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  1. A New Outfit

    Thought I'd share my new sidecar outfit. I made the chair as a close copy of a Rushton a colleague lent me that he uses with a Montesa. Tubing is 19mm x 1.6 and 25mm x 2.5mm. Chair wheel lead is 10.0''. Shock is from Falcon. Wheel hub is an unknown brand with 20mm ID bearings. Rim is 17'' x 1.2'm Honda Cub with tyre to suit. Brake is Hope. Swing arm is on nylon bushes and bronze sleeved shaft - thought I'd try without roller bearings and see how long it lasted...at least it won't seize with rust! Bike is a 2002 Gasgas 250 Pro. First outing last weekend was entertaining to say the least. Hope to do some club trials at Mansfield Maun and see how we get on...
  2. Pop-Up Gazebo. Any Experiences?

    Not sure about the quality of the cheaper ones, but I suppose you;ll get what you pay for. One thing to check though is whether you want it to be waterproof or not, the cheaper ones generally don;t have a waterproof fabric, so all that happens is the rain gets sliced up into a fine mist and everything inside just gets wet slowly!
  3. 2011 2.9 Carb Settings

    Update! Right, messed about with changing the pilot jet for a richer one. This got the engine running so much better so was as tep in teh right direction. Engine still not perfect though. Soooo, gave up and have put a Keihin on it. It's the carb the previous owner had onthe bike with a 300cc barrel/piston instead of 272cc. This carb has transformed the bike. It runs so much better and is a lot easier to ride - it does what you expect when you open the throttle! No idea of jetting as I just threw it on and it worked. If I need to take it apart to clean it at some point I'll update with jetting specs. Used VHST anybody?! Ray
  4. 2011 Kickstart

    I have a 2011 2.9. I find exactly the same as you - my foot slips off the kickstart sometimes too. It doesn't help that they're bl00dy hardy to kick over in the first place. I just make sure I kick 'into' the bike as well as down, that way I slip off less often! Not much help, maybe, but my way round it.....
  5. 2011 2.9 Carb Settings

    Made an interesting discovery after talking to Chris at Splatshop. The reeds in the engine are twin reeds, so as far as I can make out this means that they are probably Boyesen reeds and not the original ones (which would be a single reed petal on each side instead of the two reed petals per side that i have). Digging around the forum has enlightened me to the fact that Boyesen Reeds tend to cause the engine to run richer than with std reeds. Seems I've got my diagnosis right all along in thinking it's been running rich. So I've just received a U33 pilot jet from Splatshop which I will try in place of the existing S33 pilot jet. Apparently the U jets have larger air holes than the S jets so therefore give a leaner mixture for the same fuel orifice size. I'll fit it and let you know how it runs....
  6. 2011 2.9 Carb Settings

    An update..... I think I'm close to having sorted the problem. Dropping the needle to lean the misture overall has made a massive improvement over the original setting of the needle in the middle circlip position. The final fix seems to be running the idle mixture very lean - only 1.5 turns out on the idle mixture screw. This has now corrected the poor low speed running, but I do now have a little bit of hunting on overrun as the engine comes back to idle. I think the final final fix will be to fit the only smaller pilot jet available, which is a 32 instead of the existing 33 jet, as this will hopefully allow me to run a little richer at idle so that the slight hunting is corrected, whilst allowing the mixture at small throttle openings to remain similar to the mixture with the current pilot jet/idle mixture screw settings. Reckon I'll hang on before buying a new Gas Gas with leaky brakes!! Ray
  7. 2011 2.9 Carb Settings

    Thanks for the info. I have had the carb apart and cleaned it out thoroughly with compressed air when I checked the jets were the right ones. Cleaning it out didn't seem to make any difference, althoug I will do it again paying particular attention to the pilot drillings. The issue is, to be honest, a pretty subtle one now that I've dropped the needle. The engine is just lacking urgency at low engine speeds. I suppose there is a chance that there is an air leak between the carb and the crankcase - I'll spray some carb cleaner around there when I've got the engine running to see if it makes a noticeable difference to how the engine runs. Maybe it's an issue with the reeds??? Although I don't know much about the effect of reed problems on engine running. Thing is, I've dropped the needle to make the engine run leaner which has made a marked improvement to the way the engine runs at low speeds with small throttle openings, this is why I think that I may need to go down a size on the pilot jet, although no-one has yet suggested that this may be a solution to the problem????? But, Splatshop only list a 32 pilot as the smallest available and it's got a 33 in at the moment, would going down 1 size make a discernable difference? Hmm...
  8. 2011 2.9 Carb Settings

    Cheers for the info so far but I think i really need to understand what to do with the pilot jet sizing to fix the problem. I'm running 80:1 mix and this was fine in my 2002 GasGas, so fairly certain it's not that. Also, I can't run the bike up the road as it's not road-going! I can't completely get my head around the idle mixture adjustment either - does unscrewing the mixture screw (not the slide stop!) (i.e. turning clockwise) incease the amount of fuel, or is it an air circuit that by unscrewing increases the amount of air? I know this has only a very small effect on low speed running - 0 to 1/8 throttle, but it does have an effect, and if I understand what the adjustment controls it might help me understand how to fix the problem! Ta, Ray
  9. 2011 2.9 Carb Settings

    Hi All, I hope collective wisdom and experience can help me sort out a fuelling issue I have with my 2011 2.9. As received from the previous owner the engine was often 'bogging' quite badly, and on a number of occasions would hunt when engine speed came back to idle. A few fellow riders suggested to'clean it out' by revving the guts out of it for a few secconds before starting a section, and this did seem to help, but in longer sections the bogging would start to re-occur. So, I checked the carb setting were as per Splatshops' recomendations :- https://www.splatshop.co.uk/2010-2011-sherco-preparation, and it seems that the 2.5mm restrictor in the fuel inlet to the carb was missing and also the float height was at 21mm whereas it should have been 18.5mm with the 250 jet that is fitted. After taking the bike out again nothing seemed to have changed, so I had a fiddle with the needle height to see if it would make a difference. Splatshop spec for needle height says middle groove on needle with washer placed nearer to nut. This is what I had as received. I had a go at lifting the needle to see if richening would help, and it made the bogging worse. Dropping the needle seems to be the best improvement I can make, and currently I have the circlip in the top groove with the washer between the circlip and the main slide itself, which seems to be the best I can get it. The fuelling is still not right though and the bike is still sluggish from low engine speed compared to a 2.5 of the same year (although this was Luke Walker's bike and he told me he'd changed the carb from the original to make it run right!). The hunting at idle is no longer happening. Also, with the needle set at any height the engine is fine for medium to high speed running. Can anybody shed any light on how to improve the fuelling from this current condition? I'm not that familiar with fiddling with carbs and not certain what to try. I 'think' that changing the pilot jet would probably be the next thing to do, and perhaps fitting a smaller one to lean out the low speed running and perhaps lift the needle back up again, but not really sure. I've spoken with Chris at Splatshop, who has been very helpful, but he's on hol this week and i'd like to get this sorted sooner rather than later.... Any knowledge/thoughts/experience would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Ray
  10. Piston Size?

    I had my barrel replated by the place in Weston-Super-Mare (Langcourts??) about a year ago. I supplied the new piston to them and they plated/honed the barrel to suit. They even charged a bit less than the told me on the phone and think it cost about
  11. Sorn Conundrum

    Thanks for that, all makes sense now. I'll wait for the log book to turn up and then get straight onto sorting out a SORN in my name.....
  12. Sorn Conundrum

    Hi Chaps. I wonder if anyone can shed any light on my SORN situation? I've just bought a bike that was SORN'd by the previous owner. When we filled out the V5 for change of ownership I'm pretty certain that he ticked the 'currently SORN'd' box. My question is, do I need to do anything to keep it SORN'd (I'm not going to use it on the road)? And, how do I know that the DVLA will not fine me or do something else horrible to me if I've not filled out a SORN form as the new owner if that was what I'm supposed to do?? The DVLA website isn't that helpful in clarifying my situation, so hopefully collective knowledge/experience will be able to help me out?! Cheers, Ray
  13. 350-18 Tyre?

    Thanks for that - looks like what I'll be needing. Looking at your avatar, the Aprilia 50 is the same as your Fantic 50, but with a different tank and seat. Is it possible to get parts for these bikes still - if so, where do you get them from? Also, we've been thinking of putting an oversized barrel kit on it for years as it's not very powerful at all. I've searched the net but can only find a Swedish (?) company that does 70cc kits, but they are very expensive. Thanks, Ray
  14. 350-18 Tyre?

    I have an old Aprilia 50cc trials bike from the early 80s that I need to find a rear tyre for. The bike has been in Italy for the last 25years - we used to ride it whist on holidays there - and I'm bringing it over to England to give it the maintenance it has long been needing. The original tyre was removed a few years ago because it split and is now lost, so I don't know the size of it. The tyre fitted at the moment is a 3.00-18 trail type tyre which is rubbish, so I need to find a new tyre for the bike. I've had a search and can't seem to find any details about tyres that aren't 4.00-18, as fitted to adult sized bikes, but I think these will be too wide to fit within the swingarm; so can anyone shed any light on a proper trials tyre that may be available in the UK that is narrower than 4.00-18 but wider than 3.00-18? Thanks, Ray
  15. Clutch adjustment

    Thanks for that. I suppose what I really should have said was that when warm the lever travel for engagement is much shorter since the clutch is not dragging in the same way as when cold, meaning that you pull away with the lever further from the bars (if you see what I mean?). Ray