tony27

Unfortunately in some countries they're the only tyres Dunlop bring in, here in NZ we have the choice of Michelin or the TL01 unless we can somehow manage to import something else.

Seem to be the most popular boots in my area, have seen comments saying they're a bit taller than other brands Mine are at least 5 years old & I'll probably replace them with another set in the future

My 04 Jarvis normally runs 130mm from top of compressed forks with no springs fitted, 5W fork oil is what I use

Pretty sure that after the first 2 year Bultaco models the muffler wasn't serviceable until after the rear tankers

Shouldn't be too hard to find the same 250 top end on eBay, literally only difference between the 250 & 290 is piston, cylinder & head. No head gaskets on Shercos, there are o-rings around the studs on top of the cylinder & a inner & outer o-ring in the head Not sure how easy it is to fit a flywheel weight as the ignition cover is really close to the flywheel

Had the big end in my Jarvis replica fail yesterday, have already sorted the parts including doing the main bearings & seals Does anyone know where I can find the specs for the rebuilt crank - clearances for the big end shims or will the guy doing it for me be safe to just measure overall width of the crank before splitting & use that as finished size

Link to parts books from Splatshop SE 4.5i-F * 2006 Looks like you're after part number 0301 which is nothing like what is used on the trials bikes Stand Holder End 450 this should be the part

Had to do the same thing to my 250s forks due to wear but used bronze, am using 17mm aluminium axles plus magicals springs & the updated damper rods which work really well

This is the seat I use on mine, they also have the mounting brackets available Trials Bikes :: Frame & Suspension :: Seats :: Yamaha TY250 Twinshock Standard Seat

Trying to remember if it was 09 that the cases changed with the waterways in a different place but basically what I'm saying is that the later cylinders probably don't fit I had my Jarvis cylinder replated last year, definitely the way to go as you know everything is perfect unlike if you buy secondhand

Have had the brakes start dragging bad enough to stop if the clutch was pulled in on a downhill slope while on a trials bike only trail ride, was expecting it to be time to rebuild the calipers but replacing the fluid fixed it in the front, rear brake was also in need of new pads as they were pretty well worn. I'd start with pushing the pistons back in the caliper, replacing the fluid & pads if they're worn

With a decent synthetic oil 70-80:1 is fine Biggest cause of clogged packing in exhausts is not getting the exhaust hot enough, if you ever do a decent climb that requires larger throttle openings for a few minutes you'll be surprised at how much the bike smokes & continues to smoke when you stop, a good trail ride every so often does wonders for keeping the exhaust clean

Ignition side crank seal is a possibility although I wouldn't expect the revs to go sky high instantly

1 thing that most 70s bikes & especially TYs benefit from is the bar clamps being moved in front of the steering stem either through buying a billet top clamp from InMotion or cutting the clamps off the standard top yoke & welding them back on, improves the steering no end & opens up the riding stance by more than you'd expect

I have a set for my TY250 from InMotion & knowing what it cost to have the stanchions on my CZ mx bike rechromed they are exceptional value, can't fault their customer service, were in my hands the next day

1 of our local twinshock guys runs the Tubliss system & hasn't had any problems with it

Beta & Sherco shared a few parts in the 2000s, fibre plates & pistons for the 270/290 for example.

If you look in the Beta section you'll find a thread on the fix, Sherco & Beta share friction plates until Sherco changed to the diaphram clutch. Basically the fix involves removing the excess glue between the friction pads

Correct front brake plate should be fairly easy to get, shared with the 125 & 250

The seals in the crank bearings aren't for sealing the cases, both Beta & Sherco who use the same bearings still run normal crankseals outside of the bearings

Is there a difference in width of the hubs between the older rim taped wheels & the flanged wheels? I recently bought a flanged rear wheel that has a polished hub & dark grey rim which I think would be from a 2019 20th anniversary model which there doesn't seem to have a parts book available online. The only hubs for the flanged wheels I can find part numbers for are fluro so I can't the numbers with the earlier polished hubs, none of the parts books show the bearing spacer so I can't even use that as a comparison I have used the wheel in my 04 Jarvis replica & noticed the disc sits closer to the inside edge of the caliper than the original wheel & the wheel is a tighter fit in the swingarm so I'm looking for reasons as to why this is the case

When you say you've bypassed the thermoswitch did you do that with a short piece of wire with 2 spade terminals plugged in place of it? That will tell you if there is power when the motor is running, I still carry 1 of those in my spares as insurance Your problem is possibly the rectifier for the fan which is 1 of the 2 small pieces up in the steering head Splat Shop - Sherco Radiator Fan Rectifier

Your question about MRS having a relationship with Ipone & Rock oil can be easily answered. My Jarvis replica has Ipone at 2% & 98 lead free petrol as their recommendation on the stickers either side of the headstock, from memory earlier models has Valvoline as the oil so the recommended oil has changed depending on who was giving the best deal at the time I had the same varnish issue on my Jarvis a while ago but it has a heap more hours on it, I put it down to a failing fan at the time rather than the oil

Engine number will be ST the 2 numbers, they tell you the size ie. 12 is 125, 25 is 250 etc There used to be a way to tell from the frame number the age & size but I can't remember which number in the sequence was the year

Just wipe some clean oil on the gasket. Make sure if you do main bearings that you fit Viton seals, splatshop can supply them along with everything else Last oil change I did after having my cylinder plated I had a bit of bronze appear in the oil, I had the drain washer split so I lost some oil & ran it for 1 ride with less oil than I should have, hoping it was from the inside of the kickstart idle gear rather than the gearbox itself I'm doing a bit of a cosmetic tidy up myself, headlight surround collapsed & the front guard has some white stress marks in the blue plastic. When I get home from holiday in Europe & the UK I'll have to send the surround & an old rear guard off to have the graphics copied due to unavailability