chappo
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Time Left: 23 days and 16 hours
- FOR SALE
- USED
Bultaco Sherpa 198, 250 cc, 1978. The bike has been completely stripped and rebuilt with 2k + of receipts from InMotion Bultaco UK. Frame is powder coated. Engine rebuilt with new main bearings all seals, rebored with new piston. Will need to be run in. New tyres with new rim tape heavy duty tubes. Michelin front IRC rear. Newly laced rear wheel with stainless spokes, front has s/s spokes. Tapered steering head bearings. Forks stripped and rebuilt 10w oil. Fork chrome excellent. New bars levers and grips. New petrol tank and seat. New air box with later 199b air filter fitted, (breaths better) . Amal carb has has a service kit fitted and all new jets. New rear OZO shocks. Front exhaust pipe cut open, new perforated stainless steel tube and padding fitted. New points and Condensor.Condensor moved from rear of flywheel to top of the frame near the coil. Stops them getting to hot and failing. Brand new rear brake pedal, kickstart lever and gear lever. New spark plug and quality oils used. New mudguards front and rear. New swingarm kit. New chain and both sprockets. The bike is not road registered. £3150 Ono Cash or Bank Transfer at or before collection. 077938466883,150.00 GBP
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Morning Chappo, scouring the forums I picked up that you had repacked Bultaco exhausts by opening them up etc. I think I need to do the same as mine are untouched. Before a plough in with the Dremel, do you have any photos or drawings as guidance? Would I be right in saying it is the front box, and the upright section of the rear as the square end section has just baffles and doesn't contain wadding? Not having welding facility, I was thinking of riveting a plate over the holes?
Thanks for help!
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Found it.
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Sent you a message, check your inbox ??
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Welcome. Can I recommend Red Rose trials club based in East Lancs. They put on excellent twinshock events. They're on Facebook and obviously have a website.
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Thanks to everyone who replied, fantastic website. At least I know it’s a SM Hi Boy. Lorenzo do you have any text to go with that photo/ image you sent me, looks like there’s a write up with it. Thanks. Its not for sale, going to be a future project, but what value would you put on one of these frames ??
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Ok guys I’ve read all the old stuff on these frames before posting this,just so you know. But I’ve just bought a load of Bultó bits and one was this frame. In the old stuff it says that this frame is documented In Don Morley's Classic Spanish Trials Bikes book on page 40, Is there anyone out there with this book that could forward the image to me. It’s just that what ive read all Miller frames had a number prefixed by SM. Ive enclosed an image of my frame number, but not prefixed by SM. Basically is it a Miller frame, or a Whitlock frame or something else. Many thanks guys.
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I’ve had a DC bike rack for five years now on a Renault 4x4, it’s taken modern bikes and a variety of twinshocks, never had an issue. No speed restrictions, or reversing issues. Lot more stable than you’ll probably think. DO check the nose weight of the tow bar you’ll be using.
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Ok guys, being a bit cheeky here. My Amal has had its day I feel so looking for an alternative carb. OKO seem to get a good review and I’m aware of all the copies and the preferred purchase site. What do people use 26 or 28 mm and most importantly what are the best jet sizes? It doesn’t say on the Ebay site what jets are in as standard when you purchase a carb.
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Bisby, can I be cheeky and ask what size OKO you chose, 26 or 28 and what jets your using. I was going to get one from scooter assassins but not sure if you get jets with the standard carb. My Gripper original Amal is worn out. Many thanks. Dave.
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Ive had regular contact with Steve over the past 3 months whilst rebuilding my 350 Gripper via his email. He has always replied, sometimes there was a couple of days before the reply came. This guy has a superb knowledge of Ossa's and has been instrumental in the rebuilding of my bike. marlimar.ossa@gmail.com PS He also supplies excellent parts. I bought a big end kit and other bits, excellent quality.
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Absolutely superb RMS. Thank you.
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Can I ask RMS, where is the above info from, do you have a Gripper manual?
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Thanks RMS, the above is excellent info for the rest. Just for clarity, these are the same spec for a 350 Gripper ? I notice you give two seal thicknesses 6mm and 8mm , are they different each side?
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Guys, what main bearings are you using in your OSSA Grippers. The ones i took out are SKF ( OTHER BRANDS ARE AVAILABLE ), 6205 2 RSH . I only ask as i read this in an OSSA manual, bearing in mind its not a manual for the 350 Gripper................. NOTE: The left main bearing (OSSA Part No. 991-141) is slightly different than the right main bearing (OSSA Part No. 991-140). They are essentially the same bearings, but the internal clearance between the balls and races of the left bearing are greater than in the right. This difference is noted by the letters "C3" either stamped or printed on some part of the left bearing (Fig. 76 and 77). It is not recommended that a bearing without this "C3" marking be installed as a left main bearing. I know these bearings would have had a rubber seal in them which was removed hence RS rating. Also noted is the absence of seal carriers they are just tapped into the crankcase, seems odd !!! Thanks.
