chappo

Naichuff, thanks for that. Someone always knows the answer on here.

Good morning all. Just waiting for the last few bits to arrive to rebuild the Cub engine. Just going through all the parts and found these four half washers in amongst the gearbox parts. Ive searched this site for an answer before posting to avoid duplicity , as I’m sure I’m not the first to ask this question, “ where do these go” ?, but was unable to find a post covering this. I have two approved Triumph manuals that Ive scoured but cannot find these half washers in any of the gearbox exploded views. Have I got them mixed up and they fit somewhere else? If someone could send me an image ideally I would appreciate it very much. Thanks everyone.

Thanks Hughie, sent you a message.

No your right, I had to grind it off and I’m now searching for a 27 tooth high gear and shaft as it was all one big mass. Why don’t people do things properly? The 27 tooth gears seem hard to come by, lots of 25 and 28.

Got to agree with you. Its all personal choice, I came off a 4RT which is a wonderful bike onto a 2016 4T. The 4T just seemed to suit me so much better, bearing in mind I’m knocking on the door of 60 years young. I ride the black routes and 50/50, I find it so easy to ride and there are so many appearing at our local trials nowadays. So impressed with it, I’ve just traded it in for a new 2018 4T, got a great deal off my local dealer as the 2019’s have just come out. Got to say that was a very impressive ride you had bentiggerwyles. 👍🏻

Jeezzzzzz it’s a steep learning curve with these things. Ok folks, current issue is what, is the gearing of choice for trials. This Cub is said to have a Serco gearbox in it according to paperwork history that came with the bike. That could be BS, but there is a receipt from Serco for other work done. How would you identify a gear selection of theirs.? The duplex Drive is a 16 tooth, the high gear a 27, it had believe it or not a 9 tooth front sprocket that had been welded on and a 46 rear. Now from the research I’ve done it appears that 13 or 14 is what’s used on the front. But would a Serco gearbox have completely different number of gear teeth to an original, or would their boxes be the same ratios but just better quality items. I know what’s coming I’m going to have to count them aren’t I, before anyone will commit. Also before I forget, how do you extract the worm gear for the oil pump. It appears to be sat in a bronze bush. Is it heat and tap it all out from the bottom up? Thanks chaps.

As I assumed people either side of the pond are suffering the same issue. Why should we have to pay for a replacement part out of our own pockets for a sub standard product. I really love the Beta product, I’ve had at least three new Beta trials bikes. But why should we have to pay to replace that faulty part. COME ON BETA AND DEALERS, SORT THIS OUT.

Having just part exchanged my 2016 4T for a new 2018 model from my local dealer, got it home and found that I couldn’t unscrew the plastic fuel cap. I mean it was completely fast in the threads, I had to use a pair of pipe pliers to free it. Checked the threads, cleaned them and applied a little grease, no change, it would go in two threads by hand and that was it. Contacted the dealer who just tried to sell me a billeted alloy one for about £40 + pounds. Contacted Beta UK who said they have a tap or dye for recutting the threads, I assume they mean the plastic cap and not the tank alloy threads. They said they would send it out to the dealer. When you have a product this costly, you would surely expect to be able to easily refuel your bike, “ talk about fit for purpose”. The alloy one on the 2016 bike was fine. Am I being naive here, but I have to now return my bike in my own time to the dealer to have the threads recut. I’ ll probably end up just purchasing a billeted alloy one as a friend of mine has done on his exact same model for ease. I can’t be on my own with this problem. Sorry guys , rant over, just takes the edge off a brilliant product. 🤬🤬🤬🤬

51mon, also check the Beta manual. They came out of the Factory lean, the Manual shows what jets are required for competitions use, its well documented on here. Ive just changed mine, a 2016 Beta Evo 300 4 T for a new standard one and my old one use to backfire occasionally, it scared the ******* out of observers and fellow competitors. But what a superb bike, especially with a 10 tooth front sprocket and an alloy Amal 80/200 slow action throttle, enjoy it. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

It’ll be interesting, just ordered a load of parts, the engine rebuild should begin Monday if the parts arrive. Wheels frame and suspension are done, just that lump in the middle.

Are they ever. Give me a Sherpa engine any day of the week and I’ve not even started rebuild this Cub engine yet. Anticipating the air being rather blue when I start 🤬🤬🤬🤬🤯🤯🤯🔨🔨🔨🔨🔨🔨

Guys, Got a centre casing on my Cub that’s past it’s sell buy date. Im looking for a replacement, the replacement I’ve found has the same E4087 number as mine , but mine is stamped underneath that as AM 1, the replacement is AM 2. They look identical but that’s from a comparison of photos , not in person. Will the casings be the same, I’m assuming the AM number is probably a casting batch and the part number is the E4087. Thanks.

That was close stpauls, after my post August 7th, asking about these IRCs I was just ready to order one. We all seem to be of the opinion that the leaking matters were a thing of the past, but clearly not if a June 2017 tyre is still misbehaving. That can’t be construed as old stock surely. Somebody somewhere must have a definitive answer about these tyres.

I’m thinking the same. Just stripped them down and I’ve actually bent one of the rods so it’s sticking slightly, thanks to that hill climb at the Bultaco Nostalgia Trial. The service cost at Falcon actually include new rods. PS that side stand for my 340 that I bought off you is still working fine, they’re still like hens teeth.

Guys, I have a 340 with a set of well used Falcon aluminium shocks on the rear. I have had them 4 years and they came secondhand to me.They are due a service and possibly some heavier springs as they bottom out a lot, even though they are set properly. Now these are quality items, of that I have no doubt. But to have them serviced and new springs, it’s nearly as much as a set of new OZO Pro shocks. Other similar brands are available I should point out. The reality of the situation is that I ride for pleasure in the Veteran Black routes or 50/50, so I don’t really need top notch shocks. It has been mentioned that the standard length, eyelet to eyelet is 340mm, but some use 350mm. Anyone got any opinions so that I can buy a good set of shocks. Thanks.