chappo

Well, a new float and needle jet seems to have fixed it. Had it running for 20 mins, stopped it a few times and restarted it first kick without the need for plunger tickling. Rode it 2 miles on the road. But I will look at a heat shield. Thanks for your help guys. PS . It was exceptionally hot the day of the event 28 degrees, well, hot for the UK.

I’ve recently purchased a 1965 Tiger Cub. It’s been bored to 220cc. The previous owner has fitted a new Amal Premier carb 622 /301. 103 needle jet. 130 main. 19 pilot jet ( 2 rings on the jet ). slide 622 / 3.5 no numbers on the needle but two rings on the top, set at position 3 ( lowest ). The bike starts ok, ticks over fine but at a trial on Sunday it displayed all the features of fuel starvation mid section. In two sections she just stopped and wouldn’t start until I depressed the carb plunger as if starting from cold. Then fired into life. Strangely she was fine between sections, no hint of starvation. Baffled to say the least, just hoping to compare setting with anyone running an Amal Premier. Lastly the carb is cleaner than a clean thing. No obstructions. Thanks all.

OK FOLKS IVE GOT A 2022 TRS ONE R. IVE DONE THREE OIL CHANGES ON HER AND EACH TIME SMALL GLOBULES OF SOMETHING COME OUT TOWARDS THE END OF THE DRAINING ON TOP OF THE OIL. NOW IM WELL AWARE OF THE ISSUES OF SEALS IN THE WATER PUMP AND THE WEEP HOLE IN THE CASING. NOW ONCE ALL THE OIL AND THE GLOBULES ARE IN THE CONTAINER THEY DISAPPEAR. IVE EMPTIED THE OIL INTO A FLATTER LONGER TRAY TO GET A BETTER LOOK. NO SIGN OF THE GLOBULES. IVE THEN INTRODUCED A SMALL AMOUNT OF WATER AND SEPARATELY COOLANT INTO THE SAME OIL. THEY INSTANTLY DO WHAT YOU WOULD EXPECT , THEY FORM SMALL GLOBULES IN THE OIL. SO THIS WOULD INDICATE THAT WHATEVER IT IS COMING OUT OF THE GEARBOX ISN'T WATER (WHICH SHOULDN'T BE THERE ANYWAY) OR COOLANT. THE OIL IS A WELL KNOWN BRAND OF 75wGEAR OIL. HAS ANYONE EXPERIENCED THIS , OR CAN THINK OF A CAUSE. IM GOING TO CHANGE THE SEALS AS A PRECAUTION. THE CLUTCH WORKS PERFECTLY. CONFUSED. JUST TRIED TO UPLOAD A VIDEO BUT ITS TO BIG, SHAME AS IT SHOWS IT PERFECTLY. ILL TRY AND CROP IT.

Thanks. This is my fourth 4T and the first job I do is split all the connectors, clean them, reattach and secure them. Quite a poor design, they’re all loose and just flapping about 👍🏻

Thanks Glayne, does it matter which wires +/- from the battery I attached to the two wires from the fan.

Hi everyone, I have a 2018 Beta Evo 4T. The bike has been unused for 8/9 months. I ran it today and found that the fan didn’t kick in. I tried to move the fan by hand but it was very stiff. I put some penetrating fluid in to try and release what I thought was a seized bearing. I managed to get it to moving but when the engine was run up to operating temperature the fan didn’t kick in. I checked and cleaned all the connection, all were fine. Can someone advise me, is there a way to check the fan independently or by bypassing the thermostat. I’m pretty sure the fan motor has gone but would like to check before committing to a new one. Thank you.

IVE JUST REBUILT A 1964 TIGER CUB AND ITS HAD THE ALTERATION TO THE FRAME WHERE A MILLER CYLINDRICAL OIL TANK IS FITTED. I KNOW THE TIGER IS A WET SUMP ENGINE BUT CAN ANYONE TELL ME HOW MUCH OIL GOES IN THE TANK. A SET AMOUNT OR FULL. THANKS

DID YOU GET AN ANSWER TO THE CARB JETTING, IM TRYING TO SET MY MIKUNI UP.

Thanks Woody, knew you’d have the info. It’s got a K44 needle, would that be right?

HI, DOES ANYONE RUN A 250 SHERPA ON A 26mm OKO CARB. IM JUSY TRYING TO GET SOME BASIC SETTINGS FOR IT. THANKS.

That’s it now with the Alloy tank rather than the fibreglass one piece tank and seat unit. It’s to nice to get damaged.

Just to reignite the Ducati thread and Pre 65 discussions, I’ve just bought this. Just wondering how many Ducati trials bikes are in the UK?

I notice your a long term 4t fan Billy, what oil do you use?

IM CURRENTLY REFRESHING THE ENGINE ON A MATES 325 BEAMISH. IVE SPOKEN WITH THE VERY HELPFUL STEVE PITT AT THE BEAMISH OWNERS CLUB ABOUT SOURCING AN 81.00mm PISTON. I KNOW THERE ARENT ANY AT THE MOMENT, BUT THE OLD ADAGE SAYS IF YOU DONT ASK…………!! HAS ANYONE GOT AN 81.00mm PISTON SAT IN A WORKSHOP DRAWER THEY BOUGHT YEARS AGO , JUST IN CASE AND NO LONGER NEED, OR AS AN ALTERNATIVE I COULD MAKE A SET OF 80.50mm PISTON RINGS WORK ON THE EXISTING PISTON SHORT TERM. IM ALSO A BIT CONFUSED AT THE OPTION OF THREE DIFFERENT BASE GASKETS THICKNESSES AVAILABLE FOR THAT MODEL. HOW DO I DETERMINE WHAT THICKNESS I NEED. THE ENGINE IM WORKING ON HAS THE 250 HEAD ON IT WITH THE APPROVED HEAD GASKET/SPACER THAT CORRECTS THE COMPRESSION RATIO. THANKS EVERYONE, FIRST TIME IVE WORKED ON A SUZUKI.LOTS OF SPANISH AND FANTICS BUT NOT A BEAMISH 🙄

Hi, just read your post. The side stands are poor. Which year Gas Gas stand did you use. Is it only the stand or stand and mounting plate.

I know what you mean. What you need are the ‘water slide decals/transfers’, these were the original ones that are like tissue paper. They fit flat on the tank as you would have got on a new bike in the 80’s. I located some in Scotland at a dealers a few years ago, but unfortunately I’ve not seen any since. You may want to try https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjih9jgmLb0AhVC_KQKHUs4Cq4QFnoECAoQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.francetrialclassic.com%2Fen%2F&usg=AOvVaw0FU1KNnpqU-kRr3uLrkP03 France trial classic site. They are out there and look so much better than chunky vinyl decals. That’s the tank I did.

That’s why prices are higher, as you say you couldn’t find one. They don’t come up for sale as often, as there are tons of 250,s and 300,s. The 200 has always been acclaimed as one of the best Clubman bikes you can buy. People new to the sport often get hung up about cc’s often opting for 300’s, having their arms yanked out of their sockets and then selling them. If your able go to somewhere like Inch Perfect Trials where you can try out the models you fancy. Other dealers are available.

Thanks Pat.

Thanks Pat, any views on the foot pegs, they look like those off a highboy frame. Or was that style standard on this 49.

Thanks feetupfun. Sent images of the hub and rear brake. But the frame number is 1787.

I’ve just bought a Bultaco Sherpa Model 49 to renovate. On searching for information on this model , which seems sparse people talk about different models of the 49. Were there several models of the 49, what were the differences.

Okay, the results are in. As can be seen from the photo above, the timings marks are quite a way off. So the newly rewound stator was refitted and timed correctly. The company that performed the rewind did ring me after undertaking an initial assessment of the stator and said the Ohms reading was low. The pick up unit is now properly secure. I’ve drained the tank and carb and refilled with 70:1 fully synthetic two stroke oil and Shell V Power 99 RON fuel. I’ve also fitted an Iridium spark plug. Well, she stated first kick and ticks over very evenly. I ran it up to operating temperature and during the fifteen minute run, this was static on a stand, it only made possibly two detonation ‘ tings’ that I noticed, Ill report again when I’ve ridden her properly.

Hi, yes it is. I’ve sent it off to be rewound and reconditioned. The company rang me after making an initial assessment of the stator and said the ohms reading was well down and believed it would have failed in the not to distant future. So for £66, including returned postage and the fact I won’t be pushing it back to the car park, money well spent I’d say. 😄

Further investigation has now taken place. Ive removed the flywheel and found that the pick up sensor on the stator that’s held in place by two Philips screws was loose and could be moved about 1.5 mm when you applied pressure. So when the engines ticking over it’s going to be dancing around. Also noted that the timing was out, to far advanced. As a belt and braces I’ve sent the stator off to be rewound while I’m at this stage as some of the solder looked iffy and some wires were frayed. Also it’s had a new blue Ducati coil fitted, so this work so guarantee I don’t end up pushing her back over the moors when it packs up at the furthest point from the car park. Hope to have it back in 7 to 10 days I’ll report back when I’ve got her running. See if it’s cured it.

Thanks pschrauber. Ive read your Bultaco comments over the years. There’s a few things there that I can try. I’ve swapped the normal NGK plug for the Iridium alternative and the normal fuel for Shell V Power that’s 99 RON. Not sure BP is a higher octane in the UK but I will check. The change of plug snd fuel have significantly reduced the ‘knock ‘. I’ve used a bore scope camera and inspected the barrel. No sign of carbon build up, or damage to the piston edge.