chappo

No your right, I had to grind it off and I’m now searching for a 27 tooth high gear and shaft as it was all one big mass. Why don’t people do things properly? The 27 tooth gears seem hard to come by, lots of 25 and 28.

Got to agree with you. Its all personal choice, I came off a 4RT which is a wonderful bike onto a 2016 4T. The 4T just seemed to suit me so much better, bearing in mind I’m knocking on the door of 60 years young. I ride the black routes and 50/50, I find it so easy to ride and there are so many appearing at our local trials nowadays. So impressed with it, I’ve just traded it in for a new 2018 4T, got a great deal off my local dealer as the 2019’s have just come out. Got to say that was a very impressive ride you had bentiggerwyles. ??

Jeezzzzzz it’s a steep learning curve with these things. Ok folks, current issue is what, is the gearing of choice for trials. This Cub is said to have a Serco gearbox in it according to paperwork history that came with the bike. That could be BS, but there is a receipt from Serco for other work done. How would you identify a gear selection of theirs.? The duplex Drive is a 16 tooth, the high gear a 27, it had believe it or not a 9 tooth front sprocket that had been welded on and a 46 rear. Now from the research I’ve done it appears that 13 or 14 is what’s used on the front. But would a Serco gearbox have completely different number of gear teeth to an original, or would their boxes be the same ratios but just better quality items. I know what’s coming I’m going to have to count them aren’t I, before anyone will commit. Also before I forget, how do you extract the worm gear for the oil pump. It appears to be sat in a bronze bush. Is it heat and tap it all out from the bottom up? Thanks chaps.

As I assumed people either side of the pond are suffering the same issue. Why should we have to pay for a replacement part out of our own pockets for a sub standard product. I really love the Beta product, I’ve had at least three new Beta trials bikes. But why should we have to pay to replace that faulty part. COME ON BETA AND DEALERS, SORT THIS OUT.

Having just part exchanged my 2016 4T for a new 2018 model from my local dealer, got it home and found that I couldn’t unscrew the plastic fuel cap. I mean it was completely fast in the threads, I had to use a pair of pipe pliers to free it. Checked the threads, cleaned them and applied a little grease, no change, it would go in two threads by hand and that was it. Contacted the dealer who just tried to sell me a billeted alloy one for about £40 + pounds. Contacted Beta UK who said they have a tap or dye for recutting the threads, I assume they mean the plastic cap and not the tank alloy threads. They said they would send it out to the dealer. When you have a product this costly, you would surely expect to be able to easily refuel your bike, “ talk about fit for purpose”. The alloy one on the 2016 bike was fine. Am I being naive here, but I have to now return my bike in my own time to the dealer to have the threads recut. I’ ll probably end up just purchasing a billeted alloy one as a friend of mine has done on his exact same model for ease. I can’t be on my own with this problem. Sorry guys , rant over, just takes the edge off a brilliant product. ????

51mon, also check the Beta manual. They came out of the Factory lean, the Manual shows what jets are required for competitions use, its well documented on here. Ive just changed mine, a 2016 Beta Evo 300 4 T for a new standard one and my old one use to backfire occasionally, it scared the ******* out of observers and fellow competitors. But what a superb bike, especially with a 10 tooth front sprocket and an alloy Amal 80/200 slow action throttle, enjoy it. ??????

It’ll be interesting, just ordered a load of parts, the engine rebuild should begin Monday if the parts arrive. Wheels frame and suspension are done, just that lump in the middle.

Are they ever. Give me a Sherpa engine any day of the week and I’ve not even started rebuild this Cub engine yet. Anticipating the air being rather blue when I start ?????????????

Guys, Got a centre casing on my Cub that’s past it’s sell buy date. Im looking for a replacement, the replacement I’ve found has the same E4087 number as mine , but mine is stamped underneath that as AM 1, the replacement is AM 2. They look identical but that’s from a comparison of photos , not in person. Will the casings be the same, I’m assuming the AM number is probably a casting batch and the part number is the E4087. Thanks.

That was close stpauls, after my post August 7th, asking about these IRCs I was just ready to order one. We all seem to be of the opinion that the leaking matters were a thing of the past, but clearly not if a June 2017 tyre is still misbehaving. That can’t be construed as old stock surely. Somebody somewhere must have a definitive answer about these tyres.

I’m thinking the same. Just stripped them down and I’ve actually bent one of the rods so it’s sticking slightly, thanks to that hill climb at the Bultaco Nostalgia Trial. The service cost at Falcon actually include new rods. PS that side stand for my 340 that I bought off you is still working fine, they’re still like hens teeth.

Guys, I have a 340 with a set of well used Falcon aluminium shocks on the rear. I have had them 4 years and they came secondhand to me.They are due a service and possibly some heavier springs as they bottom out a lot, even though they are set properly. Now these are quality items, of that I have no doubt. But to have them serviced and new springs, it’s nearly as much as a set of new OZO Pro shocks. Other similar brands are available I should point out. The reality of the situation is that I ride for pleasure in the Veteran Black routes or 50/50, so I don’t really need top notch shocks. It has been mentioned that the standard length, eyelet to eyelet is 340mm, but some use 350mm. Anyone got any opinions so that I can buy a good set of shocks. Thanks.

The new tyre is a TR 011, not sure of the old coding Mog.

Thanks Mog, As you will have read IRC changed the manufacturing process to give a better grip on the rim with the latest tyre. Did you fit a new style tyre or is it possible you may have been sold an old stock tyre, sorry not sure of what the tyre numbers are on the old and new? Ill have a look see if I can find out. Thanks for the input, I’m sure I’m not the only one wanting a change of tyre.

Thanks 4stroke, That was the answer I wanted, someone who was currently running one. Thanks to all others for your input, much appreciated. Looking at IRC reviews, the new tyre has a stronger rim, obviously to alleviate previous issues of tyre ‘burp’ air loss.

Thanks StPauls, I take you have a Beta 4t and your not talking about fitting it to your profile bike the Honda GL 1800 ?????.

Just ready to change my rear Michelin on my 2016 Evo 4T. I run a tubed IRC on my Bultaco and really like it, very soft, just wonder if anyone runs a tubeless IRC on their Beta 4t. Only asking because in the back of my mind I seem to remember someone saying they had a problem getting them to sit/seal on the rim and they passed a little air. Thanks.

I’ll try and reload one or two. One as is, one as was 12 years ago.

If you look on this forum under my original post, ‘ Well I collected the Cub today ‘, there are a few images of the bike.

Photos have gone on in reverse order !!

Hi guys, Please see images of my Cub casings.Just split the engine. The first casing shows an area milled out and a plate inserted with four Allen screws inserted. Is this the mod to allow access to the oil pump. You lads who know there stuff will probably recognise the model of engine but it’s a 1961 year model. The second casing, well, I’ll wait for some ideas, is it to allow the gearbox sprocket to be removed without having to break the motor. It’s a really poor fit. Thanks.

I’ll say, took the engine out last night, don’t think the hydraulic clutch has ever worked. Will be being replaced with cable and lever. The bore and top end look ok which is a plus, to say it’s been sat for umpteen years.

Nebulous, sorted not modernised. Just need to read up on what it can have for Club events, I know the brake drums are Japanese and the Keihin carb may need to an Amal, but it’s just a fun project. Believe from a good friend who popped in today it would have to be in the Specials class as it is at present. Cant believe someone’s taken the time to put a hydraulic clutch on it !!

b40rt, just the guy I bought it off. Nebulous, need to do a bit of reading up before I tackle that engine, can do Spanish ones no problem, this has got tubes everywhere??. I do have a friend who knows a thing or two about these old pushrods, already warned him he’s busy. Its not that bad saying it’s been in a shed for 8 years. Not tried to turn it over, going to put some oil in the bore for a few days and let that seep through. Also probably drain, if there’s any oil in, the engine and overfill it so everything gets a covering. Its not a tomorrow job.

Well, I asked how much they weigh before I collected it............put it on the bike rack and I swear it was lighter than my 340 Sherpa. Anyway, I said previously , learning but still a bit green where Pre 65s are concerned. It is said, I term it that way as the Gentleman I purchased it from,purchased it from the Estate of a deceased friend, he knows nothing about it apart from a letter that was concealed in amongst a raft of receipts for work done. The letter said it had an engine rebuild in the mid 90s, fitted with a Serco Trials gearbox, Boyer Branden ignition, frame modifications, hydraulic clutch, and a specialist oil tank ( some purists will wince at that clutch I’m sure ). The bike is road registered, XKO 65X being registered March 1961. Very easy to say, I’m sure a lot have said it in the past, but in the letter the previous keeper said “It was ex Lampkin”. Does anyone recognise it, previously owned it, know any history? Believe it’s lived in the South of the country of late , again it was documented that it won many Awards. Any info would be well received. Ill add some images of how it is now pre renovation/recommissioned and one from how it use to look in its day.