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stpauls

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  1. When I see the words "shares" I know that the Moneymen will be chasing a profit. Profit first, everything else comes after that, including Trials.
  2. I have wasted ages on the ACU website trying to renew my membership for 2023, with no success. Anyone else having issues? Thoughts on the new ACU website?
  3. Sherco or Scorpa TY 124 4T Classic or Adventure, 2019 onwards. If you want a small 4T Trials bike to use in Novice sections, then your choice is very limited. This bike is quite good IF you do some work to it first. The engine is a Jianshe 125 6C, made by Jianshe-Yamaha, in China. It is a clone of a Yamaha TTR. The engine parts are interchangeable. The factory is part-owned by Yamaha. Any small Yamaha motorcycle purchased in Europe has it's engine made by Jianshe - Yamaha, in China - even if it says Yamaha on the engine cases! The carburettor is a Mikuni BS25. Used in some quads. It is a good carb for this bike. The standard jetting is: pilot/slow jet = 17.5. The main jet is 130. If you fit a 150cc big bore kit, you need to increase the size of the main jet to 150. If you want to use it competitively for Trials, you will need to: Minimum: 1. Change the tires - Michelin trials tires. Or, Michelin front, IRC on the rear. 2. One tire clamp on the front. Two tire clamps on the back. 3. Put a spring tip on the rear brake lever. 4. Replace the exhaust pipe and CAT with a pipe from S3, or, buy an even better one from: Iron Davis at Excel Engineering, in the UK: 01554 751935. Same price. Additionally: 5. The clutch is quite stiff and very on/off. Make the clutch actuator arm longer to make the pull lighter and to provide more control. I also removed the hydraulic clutch on mine and replaced it with an ordinary clutch lever. Much, much better clutch control. 6. Fit an in-line fuel filter. The pilot jet hole is tiny and it is hassle to get to, to clean. 7. I found mine to be a bit too quick in the Sections, so as the engine sprocket is very small, Talon, in Yeovil made me a 63 tooth rear sprocket, to replace the standard 57 tooth. 8. Remove all the lights, horn etc. Install a Stop switch. 9. I removed the heavy battery and heavy starter motor from mine and repositioned all the electrics up near the steering head. Additionally, removed the starter motor gears from inside the engine. The kick start works fine. Remove the spring from the right hand foot peg to enable the kickstart to clear the footpeg. 10. The engine cases overhang the standard bash plate by quite a bit. You can buy a proper one from Excel Engineering, in the UK: 01554 751935 Hope this helps.
  4. Join the ACU and enter a few trials. Just ride the Novice sections and do the sections that you feel happy doing. Welcome to the Auto-Cycle Union (ACU) - Bikesport GB
  5. I have Wulfsport and Gaerne's. The boots offering the best protection by far are Wulfsport. Wulfsport boots are made of thicker, stiffer leather and the soles are much stiffer too. Gaerne's are soft and comfy but offer little ankle protection - I broke my ankle earlier this year wearing my Gaerne boots. It wouldn't have happened if I had my Wulfsport boots on. However, the most popular boot at trials competitions are Gaerne.
  6. Some clubs have a Gentleman's Route, which is basically in through the start gate and out of the end gate, by any route at all.
  7. Bend the kickstart back to it's correct angle: Take the kickstart leaver off. Put it in a vice. Heat it up with a blowlamp, or preferably an oxyacetylene torch to a red colour, then bend it, perhaps using a long length of pipe. When you are happy with the angle then heat it up again to red, then quench it in a bucket of cold water to make it tough again. Simples.
  8. Easy enough to sort out a bent wheel rim. Youtube is your friend here. Don't waste money on buying cheap tyres.
  9. stpauls

    Silencer packing

    Rough, poorly maintained, but cheap bikes can be a money pit. Unless the bike's a classic, then it is often better to pay a bit more for a good example.
  10. You need a windy gun/impact driver to undo it. If you don't have one, take it to your local garage. (leave the nut exposed). It would only take them a minute to undo it.
  11. Tool Station, Screwfix. Proper Job.
  12. I would guess that being "mullered" has the same meaning as being Johnstoned, so messed up - broken - destroyed beyond repair.
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