stpauls

Beta: The perennial issue of Betas jumping out of first or second gear - mid-section! Some do, some don't - will yours? Glass mudguards. Sherco: Rear fuel tank models 2012 - 2015 - fork yokes hit frame downtubes and chop through/collapse them. No longer an issue. 2016 only = fiddly air filter and awkward radiator filler (can be overcome using hypo syringe). 2017 onwards have a different clutch, which might not be easily adjustable. TRS: Don't really know, but I have read about different issues.

I am just finishing the total restoration of a 1976 Honda TL 125 SE, with the original Miller 150cc conversion in a Miller Highboy frame. The clutch is virtually the same as the TLR and it's variants. All the clutch components are the ones that came with the bike, apart from new clutch springs, clutch cable and clutch lever, which have been renewed. I have checked that no components are missing, using exploded diagrams on the CMS website The clutch did work before the restoration, but the cable was badly frayed inside the sheath and the clutch arm was dragging against the exhaust pipe - both now rectified. However, the clutch is stiff and gets stiffer as the engine gets hotter, increasing the drag to a point where you cannot change gear without first stopping the engine. What can I do to improve matters? Thanks in anticipation

Old topic I know, but are these clutch lighteners still available anywhere?

Mine is flat, not dished, with pockets for the valves,

Can you retard the ignition on these? If so then retard the ignition by about 4mm (not 4 degrees).

I have bought a new fuel tank, with a screw on aluminium cap. However, it came with no gasket to go between the cap and tank. The original tank has a gasket, which looks like silver card. What material to use to make a disc about 43mm diameter, 3mm thick? Thought about using part of a wellington boot. Ideas? Thanks in anticipation.

Jotagas

Putting a smaller front sprocket will indeed slow it down, but at the same time it will actually increase both power and torque!

Before you change it for something softer, get the ignition timing retarded by about 4mm first. That is 4mm not 4 degrees. That will tame it down. When you become more confident you can get it put back to where it was.

Old post I know, but this post could confuse others searching for information. The poster actually has four wires coming out of the stator. The fifth is the neutral switch wire (green) which runs very close to the stator, before connecting to the neutral sender switch next to it.

Can anyone point me in the direction of a basic wiring diagram for a 1976 Honda TL 125se engine. I have renewed everything excepts the generator. I made detailed records and took photos, but I have no spark, so something is amiss. I need a diagram that does not include the battery, lights and horn etc. Thanks in anticipation

I need a black plastic universal rear fender/mudguard for a Honda TL 125 in a Sammy Miller frame.. I bought a Gonelli from Fecked, but they are short - sort of 3/4 length. I bought a second and tried joining them together, but the profile was wrong and it looked rubbish. They sell white and silver, and other colours are available, but apparently not black. I don't want to paint or use alloy ones. Any ideas?

Hi I am in the process of completely rebuilding a 1976 Honda TL 125se. The basic design of the motor is similar/exactly the same in many respects to the Honda TLR. There is a rubber oil seal in the oil way of the barrel. The TL shares this same part. Anyone know what it does? Here is a link to the part: https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-tlr200-1983-d_model50044/rubber-oil-seal_12271383000/#pageproductModelfit It is part 6 in this diagram:

You see a lot of TY 175/250s at trials meetings here in England, competing at Novice and Clubman level against modern bikes and sometimes winning. I had a silver engined Beamish 250 for a few years . This was a Suzuki RL 250 motor, (the same motor as in your picture) in a chrome plated Beamish frame, which was apparently a big improvement on the Suzuki RL 250, but it was still a poor trials bike. OK as a green laner though. Reliable, and robust, with electronic ignition too. I'd go with the Suzuki. The Beamish owners club is also a good place for Suzuki RL owners too. http://beamishownersclub.com/

1976 Honda TL 125 - 150cc conversion by SM. 1. What engine oil to use? Wet clutch. 2. Various small retaining bolts inside of engine. What torque/s ? Thanks in anticipation.