chappo

Just put the Mikuni 26 on from Steve at Motocarb in Liverpool and it worked fine on the settings it came with. Also supplied were a selection of jets either side size wise of the fitted ones for fine tuning. Im ?. Its all personal choice at the end of the day. Going to stop fannying around with it , now it's had all its faults sorted and ride the thing.

Sherpa325, you were right, all that worry when she was on the bench. Got her to the trial, rode her round the field for 10 mins and it felt just right. All gears selected perfectly and the clutch was fine. Just decided to upgrade the Bing for a Mikuni. Relief?

Thanks Guys, why didn't you post earlier ?? I suppose that makes sense, but I put the crank seal holders in both sides first so the bearings fell to the correct point and the bearings on the inside were flush to the crankcases. When I dropped the crank into the cases, with bearing already heated, ( the crank had already been in the freezer ) it dropped in with a beautiful thud as though it had mated with the crank counterweight. The gap on both sides of the crank to casing were almost the same when measured. It also sounds very well now it's running. Im happy at present, subject to any axial movement.

I've tried both methods now, bearings on the crank then crank into hot casings, also bearings into casings and then crank into bearings. Found the later method easier, heat the casings, bearings have been in the freezer, just drop them in. Heat the bearingswith a heat gun, have the crank in the freezer overnight, just drop it in. Thanks guys.

Yes spotted deliberate mistake, the Red Rose event is actually on Sunday not Saturday

Got her finished today and she runs like it just came out of the Factory gates. Saying that only been up and down the drive, but all seems good. Hopefully out on her this Saturday at a Red Rose event.

Ok guys, looks like I've got it sorted. But thanks goes to Woody and Bondy who identified the issue. The pawls in the selector mechanism came out as I disassembled the engine, without looking i put them back in the mechanism as I would a five speed one. But on closer examination they have a step in one side which needs to face outwards. The gearbox selects all the gears now but some are stiff, but as Sherpa325 says once it's all torqued up , ancillaries fitted and filled with oil I'm sure it'll be fine. Upward and onward.

Thanks Greg, good point, no it was casing to casing, I'll give it a try.

Thanks Woody & Model80. Tried to load an image of the gearbox and selector pauls but it's saying the image is to large. I've never had a problem loading images before.

Does anyone have a diagram of a 340 6 speed gearbox please. Split it several weeks ago, put it back together today and it seemed to find all the gears when manually using the shifting drum. Put the other casing on ( without the crank ) inserted the gear selector shaft and shifting trigger mechanism and it wouldn't engage a gear. Done a couple of 5 speed boxes before no problem. Serves me right for not doing it all at once. A diagram would greatly assist although I bet they're like hens teeth. Its either a selector in the wrong sequence although I don't think so or the shifting trigger mech, but again they look ok. Something to ponder over gentlemen. Thanks in advance as always .

I have a 2015 4rt that I bought new, I've got to say the standard clutch run on ELF HTX 40 is one of the best drag free responsive clutches I've had, it is my first four stroke but had lots of two strokes. I would have thought that with all the R and D Honda have at their disposal they would put a pretty good clutch in from day one. Im only a rider of basic abilities, possibly the expert riders need more. Just my opinion folks.

Hi jrsunt, Id be happy riding as badly as you. ??. Not sure if your doing the SSDT, but going to watch the first two days. We'll give you a cheer if we see you, only if you go clean of course.

Put it above your comment 2stroke4stroke.

Thanks for all the help chaps. The aftermarket breather was partly to blame, the ball bearing had seized in its alumium body in the closed position so creating a vacuum. WD 40 ( other similar brands will also do the job ) overnight released it, no problem. Kept the same plug but cleaned and lightly oiled the air filter and it seemed to start better and ran fine. So I'm at fault for putting to much oil in the air filter on cleaning. Ive also got to add I opened every electrical connector I could find and gave them a thorough clean. One of those could also have contributed to its better running. Thanks . PS jrsunt, nice to see you flying the Montesa Flag at the BTC in Cumbria the other weekend, yours sounded well and some smooth riding, nice to watch. I think it was you??!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the all the views guys, getting it put back together this week..

Just wondering what methods people use out there to fit the three main bearings, we're all individuals and have our thoughts and methods. Ive rebuilt a 198a last year and rebuilt the engine and just thought before i do this one I'll canvas opinion just in case someone has a better or easier way of doing them. Is it crank in freezer then drop hot bearings onto that or bearings in the cases and then frozen crank in that way. The outer bearing on the primary side , same question. How do you heat the bearings, hot oil or other method?. Going to do my 199b in the next week or so. Just asking before I start. Thanks guys.

Thanks but wouldn't have a clue where to start with that. ??

Thanks for all the help guys, especially the comprehensive dadof2 reply which was like an exam answer. Ive reverted back to original breather and extracted most of the oil out of the filter, see how Monday goes.

Might be guilty of molly coddling it , I'll give it a thrash on Monday see if that clears its head. ??

Thanks Jonny, definitely worth a try, thinking about it I use to use engine oil then rung it out and let it drain. Ive recently used an oil filter aerosol spray oil, may go back to old oil and ringing out method.

Are you two gents on the standard petrol cap breather or an aftermarket one??

Thanks Teddybattye, see how it goes on Monday and may try a 5, thanks for the offer of the plug.

Thanks for the reply, the plug I use is a NGK IR CR6EIA9 , which I was told was the IR equivalent of the standard plug. Already put the original overflow pipe back on to monitor at the Trial on Monday. I am mechanically sympathetic ( being a mature 57 year old rider ) and will always leave it ticking over whilst I get my gear on, so it's running for 3or 4 minutes before it's ridden off. I'm not a throttle blipper , as 4 strokes don't need it like a 2 stroke does to clear its throat. Probably need to give it a good thrashing over the Lakeland Fells on Monday rather than mothering it !!!!!!

I've got a 2015 Montesa 4rt that I bought new , it's been maintained above and beyond, but I've recently been suffering from what appears to be a rich mixture. I replaced the plug four events ago for an NGK iridium one which has become sooty, as did the last one. It also smells rich when it's on tick over and uses more fuel than other riders that I ride with that have similar bikes. The bike rides and performs well and I assumed with fuel injection that there would be no mixture issues. The air filter is a TwinAir and it's cleaned after each event It also seemed to boil the fuel, for want of a better phrase, at last weekends event. The bike still ran fine but I opened the fuel filler to check and it was ariated and bubbled out of the tank then settled down. I checked the breather, not original, the small cap with ball bearing inside type, it appeared fine. Ran it for another half hour or so checked it again and the fuel bubbled out the cap as I unscrewed it under quite a bit of pressure. Open to sensible suggestions of how to cure. Both issues do not affect the running of the bike. Thanks guys.

Another one.