Everything posted by chappo
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Trials bike - returning to trials
That’s why prices are higher, as you say you couldn’t find one. They don’t come up for sale as often, as there are tons of 250,s and 300,s. The 200 has always been acclaimed as one of the best Clubman bikes you can buy. People new to the sport often get hung up about cc’s often opting for 300’s, having their arms yanked out of their sockets and then selling them. If your able go to somewhere like Inch Perfect Trials where you can try out the models you fancy. Other dealers are available.
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Bultaco Model 49 Sherpa, how many models.
Thanks Pat.
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Bultaco Model 49 Sherpa, how many models.
Thanks Pat, any views on the foot pegs, they look like those off a highboy frame. Or was that style standard on this 49.
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Bultaco Model 49 Sherpa, how many models.
Thanks feetupfun. Sent images of the hub and rear brake. But the frame number is 1787.
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Bultaco Model 49 Sherpa, how many models.
I’ve just bought a Bultaco Sherpa Model 49 to renovate. On searching for information on this model , which seems sparse people talk about different models of the 49. Were there several models of the 49, what were the differences.
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FANTIC 240 DETONATION
Okay, the results are in. As can be seen from the photo above, the timings marks are quite a way off. So the newly rewound stator was refitted and timed correctly. The company that performed the rewind did ring me after undertaking an initial assessment of the stator and said the Ohms reading was low. The pick up unit is now properly secure. I’ve drained the tank and carb and refilled with 70:1 fully synthetic two stroke oil and Shell V Power 99 RON fuel. I’ve also fitted an Iridium spark plug. Well, she stated first kick and ticks over very evenly. I ran it up to operating temperature and during the fifteen minute run, this was static on a stand, it only made possibly two detonation ‘ tings’ that I noticed, Ill report again when I’ve ridden her properly.
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FANTIC 240 DETONATION
Hi, yes it is. I’ve sent it off to be rewound and reconditioned. The company rang me after making an initial assessment of the stator and said the ohms reading was well down and believed it would have failed in the not to distant future. So for £66, including returned postage and the fact I won’t be pushing it back to the car park, money well spent I’d say. 😄
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FANTIC 240 DETONATION
Further investigation has now taken place. Ive removed the flywheel and found that the pick up sensor on the stator that’s held in place by two Philips screws was loose and could be moved about 1.5 mm when you applied pressure. So when the engines ticking over it’s going to be dancing around. Also noted that the timing was out, to far advanced. As a belt and braces I’ve sent the stator off to be rewound while I’m at this stage as some of the solder looked iffy and some wires were frayed. Also it’s had a new blue Ducati coil fitted, so this work so guarantee I don’t end up pushing her back over the moors when it packs up at the furthest point from the car park. Hope to have it back in 7 to 10 days I’ll report back when I’ve got her running. See if it’s cured it.
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FANTIC 240 DETONATION
Thanks pschrauber. Ive read your Bultaco comments over the years. There’s a few things there that I can try. I’ve swapped the normal NGK plug for the Iridium alternative and the normal fuel for Shell V Power that’s 99 RON. Not sure BP is a higher octane in the UK but I will check. The change of plug snd fuel have significantly reduced the ‘knock ‘. I’ve used a bore scope camera and inspected the barrel. No sign of carbon build up, or damage to the piston edge.
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FANTIC 240 DETONATION
Hi , yes I’ve read the article. Thank you.
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FANTIC 240 DETONATION
Thanks Bullylover, I’ll try that, but please guys keep the advice coming, someone must have solved this niggle somewhere surely.
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FANTIC 240 DETONATION
I’m the proud owner of a Fantic 240 which is displaying a detonation sound. I’ve already noted the post in December 2019, which covered this topic but did not provide a cure. Although the member did say what he’d done had reduced it. Just wondering if anyone has found a cure for it since that last post. To set the scene, the engine has had a full rebuild, new piston, rebore, cylinder coated, all bearings and seals. It sounds wonderful apart from the occasional detonation sound. The carb is a new Dellorto, jetted as per the manual. It has a brand new front pipe and WES rear silencer. I’ve just put a new NGK plug in her and some super unleaded fuel at 70:1 mix with fully synthetic Shell 2stroke oil. I’ve got an NGK iridium plug on order. Starts almost first time every time so the timing must be right. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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New member Fylde coast
Sent you a message, check your inbox ??
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New member Fylde coast
Welcome. Can I recommend Red Rose trials club based in East Lancs. They put on excellent twinshock events. They're on Facebook and obviously have a website.
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Sammy Miller Hi Boy frame..........possibly.
Thanks to everyone who replied, fantastic website. At least I know it’s a SM Hi Boy. Lorenzo do you have any text to go with that photo/ image you sent me, looks like there’s a write up with it. Thanks. Its not for sale, going to be a future project, but what value would you put on one of these frames ??
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Sammy Miller Hi Boy frame..........possibly.
Ok guys I’ve read all the old stuff on these frames before posting this,just so you know. But I’ve just bought a load of Bultó bits and one was this frame. In the old stuff it says that this frame is documented In Don Morley's Classic Spanish Trials Bikes book on page 40, Is there anyone out there with this book that could forward the image to me. It’s just that what ive read all Miller frames had a number prefixed by SM. Ive enclosed an image of my frame number, but not prefixed by SM. Basically is it a Miller frame, or a Whitlock frame or something else. Many thanks guys.
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Bike carrier rack
I’ve had a DC bike rack for five years now on a Renault 4x4, it’s taken modern bikes and a variety of twinshocks, never had an issue. No speed restrictions, or reversing issues. Lot more stable than you’ll probably think. DO check the nose weight of the tow bar you’ll be using.
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OKO carb for a 350 Gripper.
Ok guys, being a bit cheeky here. My Amal has had its day I feel so looking for an alternative carb. OKO seem to get a good review and I’m aware of all the copies and the preferred purchase site. What do people use 26 or 28 mm and most importantly what are the best jet sizes? It doesn’t say on the Ebay site what jets are in as standard when you purchase a carb.
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OSSA Mar carb issues - Mikuni
Bisby, can I be cheeky and ask what size OKO you chose, 26 or 28 and what jets your using. I was going to get one from scooter assassins but not sure if you get jets with the standard carb. My Gripper original Amal is worn out. Many thanks. Dave.
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Steve Sell???
Ive had regular contact with Steve over the past 3 months whilst rebuilding my 350 Gripper via his email. He has always replied, sometimes there was a couple of days before the reply came. This guy has a superb knowledge of Ossa's and has been instrumental in the rebuilding of my bike. marlimar.ossa@gmail.com PS He also supplies excellent parts. I bought a big end kit and other bits, excellent quality.
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OSSA 350 GRIPPER MAIN BEARINGS.
Absolutely superb RMS. Thank you.
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OSSA 350 GRIPPER MAIN BEARINGS.
Can I ask RMS, where is the above info from, do you have a Gripper manual?
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OSSA 350 GRIPPER MAIN BEARINGS.
Thanks RMS, the above is excellent info for the rest. Just for clarity, these are the same spec for a 350 Gripper ? I notice you give two seal thicknesses 6mm and 8mm , are they different each side?
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OSSA 350 GRIPPER MAIN BEARINGS.
Guys, what main bearings are you using in your OSSA Grippers. The ones i took out are SKF ( OTHER BRANDS ARE AVAILABLE ), 6205 2 RSH . I only ask as i read this in an OSSA manual, bearing in mind its not a manual for the 350 Gripper................. NOTE: The left main bearing (OSSA Part No. 991-141) is slightly different than the right main bearing (OSSA Part No. 991-140). They are essentially the same bearings, but the internal clearance between the balls and races of the left bearing are greater than in the right. This difference is noted by the letters "C3" either stamped or printed on some part of the left bearing (Fig. 76 and 77). It is not recommended that a bearing without this "C3" marking be installed as a left main bearing. I know these bearings would have had a rubber seal in them which was removed hence RS rating. Also noted is the absence of seal carriers they are just tapped into the crankcase, seems odd !!! Thanks.
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Ossa Gripper front pipe seal ?
Could anyone tell me what fits into the recess on the front exhaust pipe, looks to be some form of o ring. Where can I source one please and what material would it need to be in that hot location. Many thanks all ??