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JonnyWobbles

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About JonnyWobbles

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  • Bike
    Bultaco Sherpa 198a

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  • Location
    Fylde

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  1. Gents, very interested in going electric and just wondered what’s the position regarding riding an EM Escape (or a Oset 24) on the road in the UK? Is it possible to register these?
  2. Thanks all for info. There's loads of pivot style kickstart levers available at not silly money that are worth experimenting with. Rather than cut my original, I was wondering if the later Lobito / Derbi lever has the same 13mm splines - accepting that these are right had mounted, so would assume would pivot the 'wrong' way? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kick-Start-Generique-Motorcycle-Bultaco-50-Lobito-New/353320677682?hash=item52438db132:g:mFIAAOSwUvhePKpg Or, could these not just be simply mounted the other way round ?? Seems like a(nother) project for the New Year (whilst lock-downed!). Cheers
  3. Thanks all. I think a bit of blacksmithing to give a bit of clearance would give a temporary solution and give me some time to research a better fix! There hardly any chrome left on the lever so not an issue!
  4. Thanks feet up! Our posts crossed. I’ll look into the Ossa lever. I think the swivel bottom is the way to go, I have seen an old post that mentions a Sammy Miller one but after trawling the internet struggling finding one with a 13mm shaft which fits to left.
  5. Ah thanks that explains it. It’s early days so I no doubt will develop the right technique, but due to the height of the lever and the fact that it’s at about 12 o’clock when engaged, struggle getting my leg high enough (I’m 5’8”) so inevitably take it down past the frame etc. It’s a problem in my garage so will only be more difficult on a trial etc. (Not done one yet!). Feked sell a lever that https://www.feked.com/bultaco-kickstart-lever-assembly-curved-type-for-later-sherpa-and-pursang-models.html is ‘cranked for clearance for later Sherpa model’ has anyone tried one. Other than that does anyone else make a left hand pivoted lever with 13 mm splined shaft?
  6. Merry Christmas! Well the Sherpa is finally back together and after a short run up the road in a hailstorm all seems to be working OK. However, my initial difficulty in kickstarting the bike before I stripped her down remains. Surely it can’t be right that the kickstart (which is already high for my short legs) hits the frame (so much for new powder coating!) then the brake pedal and obviously the footpeg is also in the way and catches your heal even if you hitch it up? Is there a solution I.e. an alternative base pivoting or cranked lever that has some additional clearance? I’m used to kickstarting my T140V Bonneville but that doesn’t hit anything on the way down! Help please!
  7. I'm restoring a Bultaco Sherpa 198A which is already road registered with V5 now in my name and being over 40 years old eligible for historic status. However, to apply for historic status the bike has to be insured. When I enquired whether Bikesure my current bike insurance / broker company would add the Sherpa to my multi-bike policy, they said yes as long as the bike had a speedo fitted and asked for me to just send them photographic proof. Seems a bit strange as I didn't think this was a requirement for an MoT etc. but just wondered if anyone else had this experience? And as Bultaco speedo's and drives seem rare and expensive, if a simple wireless cycle speedo would do the trick? Grateful for any guidance! Jon
  8. Thanks everyone. Confirmed my suspicion that the table in the workshop manual is wrong. Following engine strip down and repaint I'd originally set to just over 3mm but I'll strip back down and reset to 2.6mm. Cheers Jon
  9. Sorry, so many questions... Could anyone from experience please confirm the correct timing for a 198a? The Bultaco UK (InMotion) Workshop Manual in the 'Model Specification Chart' states 3-3.25mm for the T250 - which is the same as the T125. But InMotion have just quoted 2.5-2.77mm - which is the same as quoted in the Workshop Manual for the T350. This would make sense to me as the T250 stroke is the same as the T350 at 60mm; whereas the 125 is shorter at 51.5mm. Looks like it could be a misprint in what is a complicated spec. table that covers something like 20 different models? Thanks yet again!
  10. Thanks Carl, sounds about right. I rang InMotion who confirmed it should be: Rear: Brake Side = 40mm Flange = 35mm Front: Brake Side = 15mm Flange = 32mm So my wheels were pretty close. I'm going to drop them off with a wheel builder this week, just to be on the safe side! Cheers Jon
  11. Can anyone supply original spec figures for wheel rim offset for my 198A - not in the manuals as far as I can see? I loosely built up the rear wheel yesterday and couldn't get near the offset I'd measured before I stripped them down, but if the rest of the bike is anything to go by nothing has been very stock! Wheels are Akront 21" 1.6 - 36T-581 and WM2-1.85" 36-TR-11-78, hubs concentric, new spokes from InMotion and are the same lengths as originals etc. so all stock as far as I can make out. It could be my lacing at this was a first attempt, but I (thought) I'd done it OK!
  12. Looking good! Do you have spec figures for offset? I loosely built up my rear wheel yesterday, but couldn't get to near the offset figure that I measured before stripping the wheels down. Problem is if anything else is to go by, nothing has been very stock so far so its difficult what to believe!
  13. It’s an old Doherty throttle, but I’ve had to junk it as it just too worn and the sleeve very distorted and shortened. The throttle just wouldn’t snap back. So I’ve fitted a new Amal T80/200 slow action trials throttle. Nice bit of kit! (I initially bought a cheap Domino but couldn’t bring myself to fit it, very plasticky!)
  14. Hi Carl, interesting project you’ve got! I’m new to trials bikes so I thought I’d stay fairly stock, although due to the nature of the sport all the bikes have been modified and alternative components fitted, which is part of their DNA! I guess when I start riding it I’ll find out it’s shortcomings or maybe not being a novice! The build is coming along, just been fiddling around with throttles and cables this week. Next big job is to tackle the wheels, I had a guy lined up to rebuild these but with our current lockdown can’t get over to him. So I thought I’d have a go and can always get him to fine tune them!
  15. The engine seemed to run OK'ish so I took off the head and barrel and gave it a check over and all seemed to be well - rings / bore and head etc. So I've cleaned it all up and repainted it, replaced the sprocket, engine bolts and gaskets and a few seals and we'll see how it goes. I've not had a two stroke before so its interesting and relatively simple! My airbox was in a pretty sorry state and all cracked around the inlet flange. But I've managed to salvage it with a bit of plastic welding and some high grade waterproof silicone which I used to glue a strengthening ring inside and pop-riveted the carb rubber hose metal ring to, so it seems pretty solid! The door is still pretty poor fitting though! I'll take some pictures!
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