chappo

Valid point, but I’d rather check than have it come adrift.

Thanks Suzuki250.

Hi guys, new to pre 65, taking the leap. Just agreed a purchase, but going to pick it up with a Dave Cooper bike rack that I take my Bultaco to events with. They say maximum weight for the rack is 120kilos. Anyone weighed a Cub recently. Thanks.

Bought this little gem last week. One owner from new , never trialled, bash plate and cases are unmarked. 1150 farm field miles since 1979. Completely original condition. Rear shocks work perfectly and the engine sounds superb, really crisp.

Just thinking the same. Picked this original 1979 325 Sherpa up this week. One owner from new, never trialled, bash plate and cases unmarked. The engine sounds superb, just needs a bit of TLC. Done 1150 miles. All original. Was going to coat it in duck oil and sheet-it up for this winter project.

Thanks JM, it is possible it’s flicked off when I was wrestling with it, getting it out.?? Ill have a good luck around the work area where I was, but I’ll replace it with a stronger replacement cap.

A perfect example of when you should not take a carb off/apart when your tired. Took my Mikuni BSR carb off my 4T to give it a routine clean. No problem, stripped cleaned, put it back on only to be left with one question. Theres an elbow on the throttle side of the carb that exits from the carb body at the top near the diaphragm , probably half inch in diameter. It appears to be a breather elbow that runs directly into the carb, just below the diaphragm . It looks like a breather pipe should connect but I can’t see one on the bike thats become disconnected . When it’s on the bike the elbow is tucked right out of the way and hardly visible. Has something come off mine that I havent noticed. It doesn’t look like it can be left open as it would allow water and muck into the carb. What should connect to the elbow guys, I’m ? stumped. Can’t find a diagram anywhere to check it. Could be it needs a cap on it. Could any 4T owners please just have a look at their carbs when they have a moment and check what , if anything connects to it. It would be a great help.

Hi luckydim, In my opinion, this Amal is one of the better slow action throttles, I've got it fitted to my 2016 4T. It's aluminium not plastic and transforms the bike.

Hi Carlos, not sure if mines ever been changed so assuming its original factory fill. But I do find the forks to be soft for my tender 17.5 stone frame, so i'm going to try 10w, thinking the original was probably 5w. If its no better, probably going to go for the stronger spring option.

Thanks thall1, I've seen the UK manual but the oil value is in a mm measurement , I was after a fluid value i.e. How many cc or ml per leg. Or do you mean millilitres not mm ??

Sorry if I'm duplicating a thread, I have searched first, I was sure I'd found an entry where someone had converted the measured value into a quantity per leg. Well I couldn't find it so can anyone help with the per leg quantity of fork oil. Never feel as sure I've got it right with the measurement as I do with a quantity value.

I ve got a pair of Domino levers, just put a full new set of springs in and a new Venhill cables on order. The full set is on advice, also a good start point to work from.

b40r, Bought it as a renovation project for winter so haven’t ridden it in anger , just pottered up the drive twice on it before I stripped it. The clutch was difficult to say the least. Im just rebuilding her, hence the questions. Ive oiled the cable, cleaned the mechanism inside the clutch case and cleaned , decontaminated the plates. Ive been advised to use a light gear oil, 75w!!!! What do you use? The clutch basket fingers are quite notched, will I be ok grinding the ridges off, I mean with a Dremmel and gently ?

b40rt, Thanks for that in depth reply, ???? Only joking just asking before I make a decision.

Sorry it’s a TL 320.

I know there’s already chat and opinions from some time ago about these, but anymore up to date info from peoples experience since the last threads. Thanks guys.

Thanks guys , came apart in the end.

Thanks Martin, When I split it which crankcase do you leave the gearbox in, flywheel side or clutch side, or will it not sit in one? Thanks.

Ok chaps, Just about to split my 1982 TL 320 for the first time, plenty of experience of Spanish twinshocks but not Rotax motors. So rather than just go at it I thought I'd canvas opinion about what to watch out for and basics, i.e. which case to leave the box in, etc, etc. Thanks all.

Fourex, did you ever get round to choosing a Pernod blue, if so which one did you pick. Was it a good match. Thanks.

Thanks motoswm (Martin) , be ringing you soon to get some bits.

Thanks all, heat gun and even pressure released it, it’s off. But strange to then find an external crank bearing !! I take it there’s also an internal main bearing.

Thanks b40rt, think our paths have crossed before. Are we aiming to get the plate casing off with the bearing, or leave the bearing on the crank. The casing does seem to be rather fragile. Ill give it a try, thanks.

Hi guys, Picked this up at weekend as a winter project, runs ok but rough. ( sorry can't load the photo of the bike ) The question is, I went to check the points and the flywheel nut was hand tight. Took it off with the flywheel and it was really wet and oily at the rear of the flywheel. Began to delve in as you do ( only use to Bultacos ) and I was stopped by the large disc that is retained by three large screws. I can get it to rotate but not release, it seems to house a bearing on the crank, how do I get it off guys. And yes for you eagled eyed chaps, the woodruff key is mangled, I've no idea how it ran, it fired up first time. Many thanks.

Had the same problem with my 2016 Evo 4T last week , fan running but very slowly. Took rear mudguard off and one of the plastic connectors that are above the carb had come lose ,but not separated, just making partial contact, sprayed with contact cleaner pushed it back together and the fan ran at normal speed again.