Jump to content

section swept

Site Supporter
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About section swept

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Previous Fields

  • Bike
    ‘76’ Cota 348 MRR

Profile Information

  • Location
    Robin Hood Country
  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

4,926 profile views
  1. You could use a quality duct tape or Gorilla tape which seems to be quite robust and stays in place. Use in place of a rim tape then you can run your tubeless set up as normal.
  2. Leaving the brake lever/pedal under pressure overnight can produce a more solid feel when operated as the overnight under pressure will cause any microscopic air bubbles to find their way to the fluid reservoir, thus producing a more positive feel!
  3. Is this bike registered for road use? Have you given the area around the frame no/VIN a really good clean....is the fourth character a definite T? If all is not explained then maybe a photo and an e-mail to the Gas Gas Importer or a reliable dealer may shed some light on what you have. Did you purchase this bike from a private individual or a dealer? I know how disconcerting these little things can be, but at the end of the day if its not a stolen reappropriated machine and you like it then all is not lost. It could be that your bike had a factory hiccup where the person punching the VIN needed glasses or was suffering from too much wine🤪 It could be that VTRTG was a small production run with some mods or additions to clear out a model ending run.
  4. TLM 50 front fork oil.....use this data at your own discretion. With the forks completely drained use 130 -140 cc of fork oil ( the higher the grade the more resistance offered so take care...possibly a 10 grade to start with but it also depends upon your weight) thats 4.4 - 4.7 fl.oz. If you have too much oil in the fork leg it will force its way out passed the oil seal and make a real mess, too little and rapid wear may take place. Some people prefer to measure the oil level as the internal components are not always identical and differences can be quite a bit with just quantity added. Blatshop show how this is done provided you have the tech info, i.e. the measurement. Your TLM is a proper trials bike and many have taken the bore out to 60 + cc even using other parts to bring it up to 100 cc with carb mods to suit. The original exhaust was very special in that at low revs it gave the little engine extra grunt for section work. Look after it and keep it standard, you are the custodian of a fairly rare bike the likes of which got many a top trials rider started on the wobbly sport.👍
  5. Whats been going on with that flywheel locating nut, looks to have been punched with few blows to possibly make it a tighter fit (staked) with regards to coming undone. The waterproofing where the loom passes through the case looks as though its been compromised and certainly moisture will cause running issues. The rust will eventually have an effect on efficiency, although in your case it doesn’t look too bad....certainly clean it up and the face of each coil but be careful to not break any insulation sort the waterproofing as well. These ignition systems do suffer from coil break down so as everything warms up then a minor break in a coil winding opens up to interrupt the circuit....hence your 10 mins of running and then dead. There is a thread on GasGas trials central about this issue, you may be lucky and it might only be the ignition coil (ht) or it could be the pick up unit which is not so good. Some basic resistance testing may give an indication to the fault but have a look at the thread I mentioned. Some one else might pinpoint the fault straight away for you. Good luck.....whatever cleaning the carb is always a good thing, check the fuel flow from the tank as these can be affected by the dreaded ethanol and/or ant lining that may have been added.
  6. Runaway 2T the quickest way to get back control is to get the thing in a high gear and feed the clutch in pretty sharpish ( time wise) and ‘stall’ the engine with the back brake held on lean over the bars and hold the front down and the brake on. So what if it burns the clutch thats better than the alternative😳
  7. Just looked on Google its all there for you plus other specs you bound to need!
  8. Glaze bust the drum braking surface. Use wet and dry 600 grade and a little water. Rotate the rubbing action around the drum to produce a clean grey effect on the surface. Clean thoroughly with damp cloth. Don’t chamfer the brake linings too much as this reduces contact surface area. They should already have a very slight chamfer which just needs cleaning lightly with fine emery cloth or scotchbrite pad. Montesa front brakes (348) are quite good when compared to Ossa-Bultaco type. Tony27 method is an excellent way of centralising the brake plate👍
  9. Chrome rings will be shiny just like chrome. Plain rings will be greyish to polished grey where they rub against cylinder wall. Chrome bore will be easy to spot as it will be much shinier than cast iron bore. You will also see where the plating finishes on the bottom of the barrel/bore. Obviously chrome bores cannot be bored out, unlike a cast bore which can be oversized by reboring. Nikasil and other types of surface hardening processes are harder to define, try a Google search 🙂
  10. Cylinder intake/inlet stub leaking allowing weak mixture due to excess air by passing carb jets etc.
  11. I can add a little info here. John used a Yamaha YZ80 front hub on his development 320 Majesty. The motor had various piston/cylinder configurations during development, torque was amazing (go up the side of a house) but the clutch needed to be stronger, tended to be overcome by that motor. What ended up being used in the final works motors depended on the type of trials going, and the riders preferences. As these are all old tech now it would be really interesting if more details could be found......👨‍💻🤔from the horses mouth perhaps....gents.
  12. Provided the piston rings are suitable. You can’t run chrome rings in a chrome bore, they’ll eat each other! You can run chrome rings in a cast iron bore. The top ring is usually chrome to deal with the high heat of combustion.
  13. Best thing since sliced bread. Allows easy starting, controlled descents and easy engine stopping. No need for a kill switch. Makes a loud chuffing sound when spectators step into your path.
  14. Most probably easier to locate rocking horse ****. Some info on Google...why does no one look here first?bikezone
  • Create New...