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section swept

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About section swept

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  • Bike
    199A,M80,TY250E,

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    Robin Hood Country
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  1. Rickman Zundapp

    Did you see the Rickman?
  2. More white route action for ocular stimulation

    That just makes next years event even more challenging. Just wondering if all the bikes that get liberally dropped from a great height do you reckon they get exported as little used barn steal.....I mean find, advertised as seen little use (probably due to the rider being hospitalised. Couldn’t help but look at the water slide enduro....just look at the c9ck up that takes place in the log roll🤪 Im just wondering if an Ariel 500HT would clean the entrance let alone anything else.
  3. Still can't find the missing needle bearing - advice?

    I once...and never to be repeated..lost my wallet, I had just checked under the bonnet of my car before leaving work for home. I used to keep my wallet in my jacket outside top pocket ( it was an anorak type jacket), which I was wearing. Having got in the car and driven about 10 miles I glanced down but couldn’t see my wallet, I patted the top pocket hoping to feel a bulge but nothing! My mouth went dry, I imagined phoning the credit card companies to put a stop on my cards, I imagined some tea leaf spending the £15 cash in the wallet then setting about the credit cards having a spending spree. I arrived home and shot upstairs ignoring my wife’s welcome, I desperately wanted to find that wallet on my bedside table....no not there! Bugger and double bugger!!! I went downstairs and explained what had happened, I put my head in my hands about to have a hizzy fit...bingo....look under the bonnet...hey presto...there nestling on the edge of the inner wing was my wallet...where it had enjoyed a 25 mile trip perched perilously close a void and potentially falling through the engine bay onto the road and goodness knows what would have happened to it....was I relieved...no more top pocket used for the wallet storage,oh no!🤷🏻‍♂️🤔👍
  4. Securing studs into rebuilt cylinder -advice?

    Blow me down, you should be a detective...what was I thinking of. Still at least you took the time to read my piece👍🙂Thanks.
  5. Still can't find the missing needle bearing - advice?

    This is probably likely.
  6. Rickman Zundapp

    The Zundapp Trials bikes have recently been a subject of many posts in the previous weeks. There is also a Rickman mentioned, it like yours is more of an enduro come scrambles machine, unless it’s very special and been converted to trials. You now own a very rare bike....please post photos🙂Have a look at Classic Trials section and specifically Zundapp Trials.
  7. 2019 4RT

    It’s nearly always the same, the advert blurb usually has at least one spelling cook up....usually calliper instead of the correct spelling for brake caliper, let’s hope someone at the factory actually reads their ads and makes a few adjustments to the employment status of the ad person.
  8. Hello Newbie Here :) Advice Needed

    I’d be very surprised if the needle valve shown actually seals it looks very ridged. Needle valve and seat called for....or suitable material from which to make both. So that’ll be a lathe and various tooling plus drawings and dimensions, £3,500 should cover it🙂🤷🏻‍♂️👍
  9. Securing studs into rebuilt cylinder -advice?

    6Don’t overtighten the two stud that are screwed into the top of the cylinder barrel. There is a recommended tightening sequence and the barrel studs are not torqued to the same setting as the through studs. Have a look in the Haynes manual or on line. Basically the cylinder head should be checked for distortion using a straight edge, then it is lightly lapped to the cylinder liner and barrel top using either fine grinding paste or metal polish. Hold the barrel still (second person or lightly clamped in a large vice or similar....lightly where it will do no damage!) ensure there is no old sealant or detritus on the surface areas that seal together, apply the paste, polish and pushing down on the cylinder head using a turning back and forth action lap the two surfaces together. Do this a few times, lift the head off and inspect, you should see a light grey sheen all around both mating surfaces. Repeat if you think it needed. Clean thoroughly by washing off with WD40 or similar or white spirit, dry. Of course if your engine has a head gasket the same applies to the mating surfaces. when you fit the cylinder head tighten the nuts down on clean dry unlubricated threads, if you lube the threads you will not achieve the correct torque value as the lube overcomes friction and allows the stud to be overtensioned. Tighten each nut down with its flat washer in place and free from burrs etc...finger tight. Check this but from memory the four through stud nuts are tightened to 14ftlbs and the inner (barrel stud nuts) are set to 11ftlbs. So after initial finger tightening halve the aforementioned settings so you first torque to 7 ftlbs for the outer four through stud nuts and 5.5 ftlbs for the inner two stud nuts. The sequence is one that spreads the tightening load evenly, looking down on the cylinder head facing forward the head becomes a clock face at 11 o’clock that’s stud one, at 4 o’clock that’s stud two, 1 o’clock stud three, 7 o’clock stud four, at 12 o’clock that’s stud five and 6 o’clock that’s stud six. Basically you tighten as evenly as you can without causing distortion or warping. I hasten to add I’m going from memory so if someone corrects me, fine. Do not be tempted to put anything like sealant or glue or even oil between the surfaces as this will cause a leak, liquids cannot be compressed and as you start and run the engine heat will cause the oil, sealant to expand and be forced out. To prevent corrosion of the exposed threads either smear with high melting point grease or paint. Paint will make removing the nuts a little difficult unless you wire brush the thread first. If you smear the stud threads with copper based product you introduce another metal which could cause electrolytic action, better to use on the threads into the crankcase and barrel a high melting point grease or oil, but only enough to cover using sparingly. It is possible on blind hole to create a hydraulic lock effect which will prevent the stud tightening fully, this hydraulic lock could in some case blow the case. Stud lock (Locktite) will prevent rust but mark removal of the stud difficult, depends how often you want to remove the studs. Coppergrease/paste seems to be many people’s favourite so if you must, you must. I tend to only use that product on disc pad backings and sliders. When you install those studs wind then in with two nuts locked together and just nip them in when home don’t force them in like their holding the Titanic. if your engine has a cylinder head copper gasket, the original if in not bad condition could be annealed and potentially reused or kept as a spare.
  10. Whats gone wrong with Trials.

    If you like rain and poor visibility 🌧🌫🤷🏻‍♂️🤔there’s always the Michael Jackson video📼 collection to take your mind off of trivial things🕺🏻🥤🎪🎡🏰🎠📺💿or dvd🎎🌃
  11. 2019 4RT

    Yes but it’ll probably be a 2018 model made in 2017 registered for the road as new in 2019! The other answer could be look into a crystal ball. To answer your question seriously, if you were the manufacturer and planned on still being in business for the foreseeable future then there would be a small change to the current 17/18 models thus superceeding to 2019. Exactly what those ‘small changes would be is debatable, but the price would certainly be one of those changes. Oh and the decals or stickers would definitely be another change. If I were the manufacturer of trials, enduro or m/x machines, I’d have a scheme in place to allow the buyer of any of the previous year machines to have a three year visual update agreement. This would be covered in the initial purchase price, each machine would have a set of the latest stickers issued to its frame number, provided the owner registered their bike with my factory system. There would be a transfer form to be used if the machine passed to another owner. I reckon the cost of a set of stickers to be around £30-40 at manufacturer cost price possibly cheaper if I rein in the design departments sticker design person...me! So at a small cost and p&p plus a little admin time...neat trick here...the owner of the machine must apply for the stickers each year change by e-mail submitting their bikes frame number. My factory can then ask if they would also like to buy at a special price the factory other upgrades. Now here’s the even better bit, by announcing my ‘new’ model range for 2020 in August 2019 potential buyers might look at buying a second hand 2018 model (if my factory and the bikes existed) knowing they can update the bike to the next year in looks alone. This may affect sales further down the line in years, but I reckon that if the bikes were any good there would be a strong demand. Bike dealers would also be able to use the same process...so if there is new old stock bikes around they could be updated, the dealer doesn’t have to be so wary about taking more than just a few bikes to sell as they will not be out of date quite so rapidly as they can get in the real world. Lastly my machines would have a stronger product identity as the colours would be constant and not change from one half year to the next. Those stickers incidentally would proclaim the manufacturers name and bike type, engine size and the best bit....the year. As for dealer back up there would be a special service offered to all purchasers of my machines. Each year the owner could have the bike prepared by the selling dealer, where any major engine or transmission concerns would be repaired with factory parts at a special discount, labour charges would be discounted at the dealers discretion. This would create a tied customer base to the dealer. Any purchaser of my machines would also have the opportunity at the point of sale when new to accept a free entry into winning a brand new (of that year) machine. All the frame numbers (not owners names) would be used and a randomly selected frame number would be the winner, this means that even the purchaser of a second hand machine could end up winning a new bike. That bike would be chosen by the winning individual, and it could also be a dealer if the bike is in their used stock. Clubs that offer introductory courses for new riders young and old and are recognised for being entrepreneurial and promote the sport in the best ways would receive my factories support in such ways as demonstrator machines...these would be unmarked decal/sticker wise...the selected club would offer taster sessions through schools and colleges and youth organisations. These demonstrator machines could be offered after a years use to the club members, each buying a raffle ticket for a set fee set by the club and in agreement with the club members. The winning ticket allows the person to take ownership of said demonstrator which will still have the free new bike chance through frame number selection as the rest. The demonstrators and free bike would be covered in the advertising budget and other revenues pulled in from suppliers and a small franchised dealers contribution. Yes of course this is utopia and dreaming, but it ain’t that hard to see a way forward. Some of the big manufacturers could actually offer this.....and before I’m judged as insane, I claim fame as having got a large privately owned motorcycle business to be dealer of the year in a large weekly publication. Damned hard PR work it was too! There could be some ideas here for clubs to generate more membership. Innovation 1...some of the factory production could be channelled to schools, colleges and youth and offender organisations for educational and teaching aides. Whole machines might be offered to colleges that offer related courses, these might be at cost or leased at a preferential rate but identified as such so that they do not end up in the market place for sale. Innovation 2...dealers contracted to sell factory supplied machines would be ring fenced and offered full factory support. There would be no endless warranty paperwork, electronic or otherwise. The customer would come first with legitimate warranty claims being sorted straight away, electronic data such as photographic details including the customer. Should the customer want another dealer to do the work the factory would send a ‘trouble shooter’ technician out to the dealer to carry out any necessary warranty work, the dealer would receive a charge for this and not the customer, hopefully this might encourage the dealer to have better customer relations. Innovation 3...when we see a child that is in desperate need of financial support for a lifesaving/changing operation or procedure denied to them because of beauracratic indifference and penny pinching. The factory would donate through its (closest to the child’s area) dealer a machine for auction or raffle with all funds going to that child’s family...yes it’s advertising but at least people get the chance to do something to try and help. Blimey....I’m sorry rr62, I really have gone on a bit, like to buy a bike? By the way Hertfordshire is my home county👍🙂 Blast it johnsandywhite got in before I’d finished my post!
  12. Still can't find the missing needle bearing - advice?

    Don’t use water as suggested but get some diesel fuel oil. Fill the crankcase up halfway, hold engine well and agitate the mix, with a long thin artists type paint brush have a stir around as far as you can. Get a bucket and stretch a piece of cloth over the bucket, secure with string or elastic strap. Invert the engine over the bucket and allow all the diesel fuel to drain out. Look at the cloth strainer, if there’s no needle roller then get a thin magnetic screwdriver or just a thin magnet...thin enough to slip inside the crankcase recess. Test the strength of the magnet for its ability to grab hold of a piece of steel approx the same weight as a needle roller or slightly heavier. Have a dangle about inside the crankcase. I suspect that if you have dropped the needle roller inside then it might be stuck in one of the main bearings, this might well be on the flywheel rotor side as the strong magnetic field may be reaching into the crankcase and holding the needle roller to the inside. I do hope you have success but also, having noted your intention it looks like you want to use the old needle roller assembly.....please get a new roller bearing as with the work already done it makes sense. There are plenty of sources available to supply on the net.🙂👍S..t happens....I lost a clutch pressure spring when I dismantled the assembly, I hunted around in my workshop for hours (I like to think that my workshop is clean and tidy but inevitably you end up with ‘stuff’ stored about) I gave up and ordered new set...no bad thing anyway but annoying as the damned thing is in there somewhere...guess what? Having attempted to work out the trajectory of a small spring on take off and the potential ricochet effect off other surfaces without success I found said missing spring hiding one of the rungs inside my aluminium ladder 🤬Never mind new springs proved under compression test back to back that the original were indeed weak. 🙂
  13. Hello Newbie Here :) Advice Needed

    Justification answer....try making one...then £12 doesn’t seem so expensive🙂
  14. Whats gone wrong with Trials.

    Err...what was the original topic of this post......now we have digressed and it could be compared to many a meeting side tracked by distraction. Oh and Michael Jackson was a consummate performer, what his private life has to do with tc and this post is beyond my comprehension! No wonder then that not a lot will be derived from any good suggestions posted.
  15. Hello Newbie Here :) Advice Needed

    Just rushed out into the garden and rummaged around in me bushes but no scrap bike parts potentially worth a Bonhams ransom price....just Mr.Toad🐸 soaking in the damp🌧atmosphere.
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