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section swept

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About section swept

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    ‘76’ Cota 348 MRR

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    Robin Hood Country
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  1. Extremely nice looking Ossa, a credit to you👍
  2. When a condenser (capacitor) is failing a good tell tale sign is the contact breaker faces show signs of bluing (dark blue) this is due to heat created by arcing. This arcing is more than you would get with a good condenser. The condenser stores electricity when the circuit is made, when the contacts begin to open the circuit is broken....unfortunately the split second the contacts begin to open there is inevitably some sparking and arcing, the condenser’s stored electrical energy provides a ‘back’ emf that helps damp the arcing and more importantly provides a boost to the ht coil. A lot of fledgling apprentices can attest to being given an electric belt from a charged condenser handed to them by a giggling work mate! So when the condenser fails you get misfiring and starting issues. Condensers for Bosch distributors are mounted on the outside of the distributor (on cars) and good old Lucas mounted the condenser inside the distributor....guess which one failed more often than not. Mounting the condenser on the frame ( usually under the tank area) allows the condenser to operate in a more friendly environment, ie less heat and vibration. The engine manufacturers installed the condenser in the flywheel area just for ease of packaging and less wire ( it all adds up to cost and time saving). Most any car type condenser will work on most any trials bike using CB ignition. Personally I use two mounted under the tank but shielded by the frame from exhaust heat and rising engine heat from the cylinder head. You should be able to view the contacts using a thin screwdriver to part the contacts and a torch to illuminate said contact faces, if the condenser is ok the faces will look light grey in colour, if blue then change the condenser.....iffy wiring connections excepted. Pay no more than £4-6.00 or go to a scrap yard and find a few engines with the distributor intact then strike a deal for the condenser’s say £2.00. Wiring...such fun🤪
  3. Came in a tube then, it was all we were allowed to use, well that and ‘ hold me tight’ or Hermetite red semi hard setting and green hard setting. But we all knew Hylomar was best!
  4. That happens when excess amounts are used, applied sparingly the Hylomar works well without causing oilway and filter clogging. A thin bead in the centre of the mating land will spread when compressed between both mating faces. Too thick a bead and hey presto it squeezes out both sides. Best practice is to apply a thin bead and wait 4-5 minutes before assembly.
  5. Very watchable, ‘proper sections’ that can be ridden and not acrobatically challenging.
  6. Check that the clutch operating mechanism is actually giving you the full operating movement. From your description it reads that the clutch must be dragging from the start and is not fully clearing, this could all be down to the incorrect cable or adjustment process needs re setting. Double check everything is installed as it should, parts diagrams can be misleading.
  7. Make sure the fan blades aren’t touching any of the cowling, nothing lodged close to the blades. If the fan housing is distorted that can create the issue you seem yo have.
  8. Get the same sealant that Honda,Yamaha or the other two Jap manufacturers use. I prefer to use Yambits who will supply decent sealant its grey and does a good job. Like you its years since a I did a Villiers engine cases, just ensure that the mating faces are flat and go easy on any sealant you use. Too much and it will squish out and inside the crankcase which you don’t want to happen. Apply the thinnest of beads closer to the outer face sealing areas, leave to skin over say 4-5 mins then go for assembly. As an aside I use the Yamaha sealant on Caterpillar V-8 marine engines at service and repair intervals and also on the heat exchanger flanges, used it on Bultaco and of course Yamaha cases. Hylomar mentioned by nh014 was used by Rolls Royce and is good stuff if used correctly and might be more in keeping for your Villiers engine. Give Villiers Services a call they may recommend what they use. I’m fairly sure the crankcases are the only area where there is no gasket. You may need more than one gearbox to crankcase gasket as thats the way to correctly set the primary chain tension. Out of interest what model Villiers are you working on? Note if you use Hylomar it tends to separate out in the tube so try to mix it by squeezing the tube a few times, capped of course, to mix up the contents otherwise what comes out is runny liquid and no main constituent.
  9. section swept

    Monty 348

    Only just seen your post on side stand, here is a pic of my 348 standard side stand with lowered and back foot rests. Side stand functions as normal with no fouling.
  10. That brake pedal pivot needs looking at as the washers not central. If you grind away at the lever it will be weakened, if you grind the footrest mount it will be weakened. Heres my 348 rear brake
  11. I had a 325 Sherpa T that never ran backwards, my mate had a 325 Sherpa T that was virtually identical and it ran backwards on a number of embarrassing occasions. The reason my 325 never misbehaved was that the ignition timing (cb ignition) was set as Sammy Miller suggested, instead of the 2.5 mm btdc it was set at 3.25 mm btdc this made the engine feel more docile and softer in sections. Easier to ride if you will, thank you Mr Miller. My mate’s bike was always set to spec and hence various trips into people in reverse or backwheel up a tree scenario....he never changed to Mr Millers timing suggestion...silly boy! With the Yamaha TY250 ignition set to spec. you get a peppy engine....something some riders didn’t like. Set the ignition slightly more advanced and there is less chance of kicking, spitting back....worked on my TY250 E. As for starting if you pussy foot about it will bite back, wear stout footwear or better still trials boots and go at it like you mean business, be positive and think about what you are doing. As for the chainsaw thats not going to be more than 110 cc and the recoil action should negated any kick back. Most Twin shock single cylinder two strokes have their ignition timing around about 2-2.5 mm btdc and most will kick if you kick start in a half hearted way. The closer to tdc the more likelihood of kick back.
  12. That sounds like a good plan. Just ensure that the crank is exactly centred in the crankcases. When the engine is running there will inevitably be a slight amount of movement due to hear expansion and contraction, Yamaha design allowed for this but if you are worried you could always use roller bearings as opposed to ball bearing mains on the drive side. Leaving the crank in the freezer is a better bet than using dry ice, less shock to the crank. I believe the factory assembly method is to fit everything at room temperature. As soon as you fit the heated crankcases and frozen crank together there is going to be some fairly rapid expansion taking place so just be sure you have everything carefully lined up with no score marks in the bearing housings....oil the bearing outers before assembly. Believe it or not, some works motors had the bearing housings sized so that only a slight pressure was needed to push the crank mains into the casing, thus stripping and rebuilding was mush less fraught!
  13. Try just ‘feeling’ the engine over compression and then kick the engine over purposefully. Simply fitting another kick start lever; and the one you mention will not be cheap, may cause other fouling problems.
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