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section swept

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    Rottweiler protected

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    Robin Hood Country
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  1. section swept

    Beta 2006 rev 3 250

    I was reffering to no lever movement in terms of using to pump the mastercylinder as a bleeding method. Yes of course there should be a small amount of free play between lever and mastercylinder piston as per the manufacturer. Perhaps in hindsight I should have mentioned your point....๐Ÿ™‚
  2. section swept

    Trial bike in winter

    If you are cerain that the coolant has not been diluted by just topping up with water then you should be perfectly ok to expose the bike to the elements by trailer trip. If you wanted to you could lag (wrap) the main body of the bike in a duvet suitable tied down. This woukd also protect your bike from road debri thrown up by your tow vehicle and other road users.๐Ÿ™‚๐Ÿ‘
  3. section swept

    Trial bike in winter

    The chemical properties that are a part of the anti-freeze formulation can dissipate very quickly. The anti- freeze component will last indefinately but its ability to prevent freezing of the coolant, in other words its strength will reduce. The other main additives are the lubricant for the water pump seals, corrosion inhibiters that prevent the anti-freeze or the water from attacking the different materials within the interior of the cooling system. There are some vehicle manufacturer specific anti-freezes that can last as long as 5 years before they deteriorate. When you consider the small capacity of coolant contained in the trials bike cooling system it would be advantageous to change it at least once a year. So by that I would suggest that the coolant is changed at the onset of winter so there is a fresh anti-freeze mix to protect the system.๐Ÿ™‚
  4. section swept

    Beta 2006 rev 3 250

    Reverse bleeding is the answer, you dont move the lever with this method. Youโ€™ll need a syringe, one the size of a regular tube of toothpaste. At least 3feet of clear plastic tubing. Ensure the bleed nipple is clear, snug it down just over finger tight, leave a ring spanner on the nipple, push the end of the clear tube onto the nipple ensure its tight and not going to let air in. Pull out the syringe plunger. Connect the other end of the clear tube to the syringe body. Cable tie or string the syringe body to the handlebar grip. With another syringe ( so youโ€™ll need two the same size) and good quality brake fluid suck up some fluid and carefully inject it into the hanging syringe. Carefully insert the syringe plunger into its body now full of fluid, open the bleed nipple about a quarter turn and gently force the fluid into the slave cylinder nipple. This fluid will come up into the clutch master cylinder fluid reservoir, this is tiny so prepare for spillage. Thats it you now keep forcibg fluid through until no bipubbles are seen in the tube and the fluid in the reservoir is clean. Tighten the bleed nipple but not too much! The fluid will change colour as the seal degenerates by shedding tiny microscopic pieces of itself into the fluid. Note brake fluid is Hygroscopic ( yes that is spelt correctly) which means the fuid absorbs moisture from the atmosphere reducing the fluids life and operating potential. In the brake system this moisture will boil before the brake fluid causing steam vapour in the brake line and long lever/pedal travel. This is a main reason for fluid changes on a regular basis. If after all this you still have a poor feel to the clutch it may be a leaking seal allowing air in and fluid out. You also get the situation wherea seal does not leak but still allows air into the system.๐Ÿ™‚๐Ÿ‘Hope this helps you.
  5. section swept

    Evo 200 upgrade to 250?

    Changing your 200 into a 250 will possibly create issues when you want to sell it. Potential buyers would go for the unadulterated 250. As already mentioned there will be other parts needed and the cost ( unless you are minted in which case you wouldnt be asking this question) may well not be worth it, Getting more power from your 200 may be the better option, ensuring everything's spot on with the rolling stock, wheel bearings, seals, brakes, suspension and steering. Turning to the engine and transmission, ensure you have the optimum final drive ratio and chain and sprockets are all good. Potentially down sizing the chain to a few grades down ( lighter weight ) and sprockets to match if available. The engine obviously needs to be in excellent condition, crank and crank seals and all gaskets in servicable condition. Carb jetted correctly, going for a larger choke card may reduce the available torque. Exhaust clean inside and the correct tail pipe installed. Obviously a porting job done properly will release a little extra power, but care needs to be taken as having gobs of power is no replacement for torque ( pulling ability). Contact a proven trials engine tuner for advice. Using race fuel or octane booster will help in your quest. Fuel oil mix ratio is all important to help give that little bit extra. Youโ€™ll end up with a nice non threatening 200 with power approaching that of or slightly more than a 250, might be a bit more revvy though. ๐Ÿ™‚๐Ÿ‘
  6. section swept

    Craigslist Finds

    I guess nobody wants or needs a Hodoka. Strange how all of the fuel tanks look to be in quite good condition externally. No offence about location, why would there be? Craigslist equivalent in UK would be e-bay possibly. Someone will becalong with an alternative soon I expect.
  7. section swept

    fork seal driver

    Have a look through this site as there are some different methods employed to achieve the same ends. You will pay a bit for the seal installer set and probably not get to use it very often. Some members have been very resourceful and used other items such as water pipe and scaffold poles suitably cut and modified. An alternative would be to go to your local bike dealer and ask if they would insert the seals for you....less than the driver set.....they might even let you use the installer. Before you go and fit the seals make sure there are no burrs, scratches etc that might cause issues. Silicone grease or rubber lube needs to be applied to the lip seals to prevent them sticking or tearing on the fork tubes.
  8. section swept

    Hydraulic Seals

    So here I am preparing an Aprilia Futura RST 1000 and I find that I need new clutch hydraulic seals for both the master cylinder and the slave cylinder, apparently this is a common problem although I never had issues on the Mille and Futura that I used to own. Searching the net I found that on the Aprilia Owners Club one fellow had some seals made, he was in the USA but the company was in UK. I got in contact with them and I now have winging their way in the post a complete set of seals for both cylinders....this is seals only no extras like springs, clips etc...and the price bearing in mind that an after market slave cylinder is in the region of ยฃ70 and a Brembo Clutch master cylinder is ยฃ260 ish and ยฃ27 for a repair if it will fit! The cost of my new seals including vat and p&p....ยฃ16.00๐Ÿ™‚๐Ÿ‘ Now the good bit, this company will make seals to either pattern or supplied old intact seals. I immediately thought of people repairing their own damper units and needing seals, then there are the suspension seals, water pump seals and so on including brake caliper and operating cylinder seals. The Company is: www.fpeseals.co.uk tel 01325 282732 This is an industrial based UK company catering for all types of hydraulic seal applications including manufactiring hydraulic rams and other components. If you need a seal and bear in mind they made my seals they will probably be able to help if you have all the necessary dimensions or photos with details. I have asked this companies permission to shiw their name on TC and I hope the moderators allow this info to be available to their members.๐Ÿ‘ Hope this can be of use to you guys.
  9. section swept

    Second hand 80's

    Its amazing what History can teach us and potentially warn us about.
  10. section swept

    smokey mar

    Wire wool? Thought you only used fibre glass wadding in the exhaust. Wire wool has a tendency to break up into smaller pieces and could get into the cylinder, not good.
  11. section swept

    159 engine rebuild

    Castrol R is not the best oil to use it may smell lovely but its a full on vegetable based oil and is intended for highly stressed engines at max revs most of the time, speedway engines, race engines and some scrsmbles-m/x engines.This oil produces a lot of hard carbon and gum and needs to be cleaned out really regularly, which usually meant a complete strip. Fully synthetic oil is fine for any older engine especially four strokes, with two strokes the petrol mix ratio is less oil and this can cock up the carb settings, jets etc. 40 years ago there was no fully synthetic oil for sale to the public, although it was formulated in the chemical industry around the Second World War. As with life there are certain provisos such as the old Jaguar straight six DOHC engines needed a 20/50 oil otherwise using (15/40) the lighter oils were dragged up into the combustion chamber weakening the fuel mix to the point where you holed pistons.
  12. section swept

    Second hand 80's

    Those were the days, you made your own entertainment. In fact in my case you made your own bike as well...frame from the allotment heap, a wheel pulled out of the river, toothpaste to clean the rim up, Gripster tyre on the back and a chunky tread road tyre on the front. One I built even had suspension at the front, forks from a motorbike not sure what.
  13. section swept

    Deal or no deal?

    Surprised anyone has money available to spend so soon after Christmas unless of course you are the president of the EU on โ‚ฌ32,000 per month!
  14. section swept

    '09 Sherco 320 4T Rebuild Blog

    Sounds like the previous โ€˜abuserโ€™ had a soul....hence new fasteners.
  15. section swept

    Petrol tanks

    Nice looking Sherpa and I like the Rebar quick lift stand.๐Ÿ‘