Jump to content

section swept

Site Supporter
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About section swept

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Previous Fields

  • Bike
    ‘76’ Cota 348 MRR

Profile Information

  • Location
    Robin Hood Country
  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

4,564 profile views
  1. Rock the bike and get it into neutral. Make sure it is neutral and not a false position. Start the bike and get it thoroughly warmed up. Make sure you have approx 2-3mm free play at the clutch lever ( on handle bars). While you are warming up the engine operate the clutch lever a few times. Now kill the engine, select second gear and try to move the bike with the clutch lever pulled in. If its still stuck then the first course of action is to dump the clutch oil and fill with the correct quantity of ATF. Now each time before you start the bike do as previously suggested, select second or third and pull the clutch in and rock the bike back and forth....this normally works. Even if you stripped the clutch and deburred the clutch basket and thoroughly checked the plates you might still have a stuck clutch after a few days standing idle. Bultacos suffer the same issue....not all but quite a few. Making sure the clutch operating mechanism is well serviced and set up is a good idea in any case, especially ensuring the best cable run and cable freedom. Hope you adjust to the issue🙂👍
  2. Just thought I’d show you my version of a chain guard for the Montesa 348. Didn’t like the idea of paying upwards of £50 ish for something that might get wiped out in a section. There is a chain tensioner courtesy of In Motion nestling next to the gearbox sprocket, the upper chain run is protected by black water pipe ( cheap to replace if it breaks) the lower chain run is protected by thin pond liner sheet, this deflects falling crap from the tyre. There is also a lower chain guide made from bullet proof nylon (well the guy who gave me the plastic said it was ballistic grade). Hope you like. Any exposed glue (Gorilla) has now been carefully removed...it was just a belt and braces finishing touch. You will probably notice I have used the original Montesa chain guard swinging plate
  3. You may want to think about using a taller gearing set up as trolling about on the Isle will stress your bike especially the engine, tyres will wear rapidly to. Old engineering proverb.....the faster the speed the faster the wear rate. Thats of course if you intend to use the main roads.
  4. Sorry for the late response. No mods to clearance, although the suspension is close it does have clearance...about 1/8th of an inch. The drop bracket is a piece from a Scotoiler Kit😳. The connection from mid to tailbox is unmodified save for a new rubber O ring seal.👍
  5. It wasn’t only a Bantam that got the exhaust/frame treatment there was I think a Metisse with a Triumph engine where the exhaust down pipes entered into the frame lower tubes and exited just before the swinging arm. In both cases I think there would have been heat issues and especially with the Bantam. Imagine the load and stresses being put through the exhaust port, securing ring and frame connection.
  6. Bit like being told a juicy story and then the teller buggers off leaving you deflated.
  7. Heres my M80 with later rear box
  8. Best thing to do first is slacken all the engine mounts and the swing arm pivot, thats slacken not totally undo. Now pull and push the engine to see if that crack can be closed up. Do not try to weld before doing this as it will probably snap again. If the gap can be closed up then a good TIG welder might, I emphasise, might be able to weld it up. Being based in Sheffield you should be able to find a competent person. You will need to remove the engine so that the welder can get best access to all of the crack in front and behind for both cleaning and weld preparation. Has the bike been dropped on its side? Has it been yanked down too tight when transported? You may consider some form of extra support brace from the cylinder head bolts.
  9. Gearbox oil....check or replace...read replace with correct grade/ viscosity. Otherwise like other members have stated....sounds ok. Try clutch in and in gear that may take some noise away. Listen to other trials two strokes some make a hell of a racket yet are perfectly ok.
  10. A days work, take out fag breaks, loo breaks, meal breaks and mobile phone checking.....actual work time 4 hours assuming nothing is seized or broken and no mods needed to make parts fit new frame. I see feetupfun reckons on 2 hours, in reality he could be right but time and motion means there is no time to search for tools and move about to clean and inspect items. Choosing my words carefully the professional/ experienced individual would want to ensure that no damage is done by hasty dismantling and transfer of parts to the new frame. Half an hour just to sort the head bearings unless new ones are going in then 15 minutes. That leaves an hour and three quarters to do the rest....
  11. Clubfoot (rear box assembly) will need to be cut open and repacked, caustic soda will not clear the packing very well. Not sure but one specific type of Bultaco rear box is quite restrictive and reduces power. Check out more info on the Bultaco site of Trials Central.
  12. But Greeves aluminium frames are getting quite old so may be suffering from degradation/brittleness in the mounting areas. They look dam strong and no doubt are but need careful checking, just like alloy wheels on both bikes and cars. Same thing happens to scooter frames as to your bike (just for interest) the older they are the more likely they are to snap.
  13. Erm Denim Jeans...for those of a certain age, black denim is better than blue. Any of the good work trousers advertised by the Diy stores...some have more benefits than actual Licra tights that are ‘for trials’. With Belstaf and Barbour you run into weight issues, especially if you wear the jackets as well....but thats what most used then in the past.
  14. You don’t say if you are using the cast iron cylinder or one of aluminium alternatives. Lengthening the inlet manifold by (as much as space allows) I used to fit an inlet manifold extension 2inches long which produced more low down torque or plonk. This tends to reduce the engines high rev performance. Fitting more than one cylinder base gasket has the effect of altering all the port and transfer port timing and can be a useful way to experiment without machining the ports. Compression ratio is reduced by a tiny amount, but skimming the cylinder barrel top restores it. I used to cut a window in the piston to allow the inlet longer exposure, this requires careful measuring and careful checking with the inlet manifold off to allow the piston skirt at tdc to be marked. You do all of this at your own risk. However most Villiers engine officionardos will probably say to leave well alone and concentrate on getting the carburation and exhaust spot on. Crankcase stuffers can improve the crankcase compression, as can ensuring the main bearings and seals are in perfect condition. I would add that most people using the Villiers engine just use them as the factory built them, including the then of the time works riders. Most preferred the bob weight original crankshaft, in my last Villiers 32A I fitted a full circle Alpha-Stepha polished crank assembly with knife edged connecting rod. That all sounds good but in reality there isn’t much difference between the two. Good fuel, the correct oil and mix ratio, clean carburation, optimum ignition setting and making sure the drive side main bearing receives adequate cooling ( the crankcase design shrouded the housing too much) and a good 32A motor should see you happy.
  15. Does anyone speculate as much and pore (lust) over a page three model like they do the supposed latest trials bike🤗🤔🤗😋😘🛴
  • Create New...