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section swept

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About section swept

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    ‘76’ Cota 348 MRR

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  • Location
    Robin Hood Country
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  1. Forks, wheels, seat and fuel tank and you are away🙂👍
  2. RTL’s can be very expensive, there are some that are worth the high cost but you must be very careful as some bikes are not genuine RTL’s. Parts and their associated costs can be prohibitive. Right at this very moment what with the virus and ‘lockdowns’ perhaps it would pay to do the research and build a rapport with a few sellers and chase down the best and original RTL that you can comfortably afford. The market place has apparently quite a few to choose from, but as an investment it might be prudent to hold off any purchase until the world can get back to normal. You could end up with maximum investment and no increase in potential future value. I personally would love to have a genuine RTL in my possession, not for any investment purpose but just because of the history. 🤗
  3. Sounds like you have a reasonably sound plan with a good idea for either bolting or welding. However have you considered Sif-Bronze welding, properly done its very strong, allows you to use the 4/5 mm plate ....mild steel. Stainless will not be suitable to weld to to the Miller frame, under the chrome plating you will probably find Reynolds or just plain mild steel tubing(difficult to tell) about 3mm wall thickness. With the Sif-Bronze welding (looks like brazing but isnt) lots of frame makers used/use Sif-Bronze, you can heat up the weld and take it off to go back to standard or modify more.👨‍🏭 Take on board b40rt and his suggestions before finalising positioning.
  4. Have you measured the cylinder bore and checked its condition?
  5. Pneumatic or good electric nut runner usually works. This puts less load on the shaft. Use it to undo only, tighten with torque wrench.
  6. I did say at the end of my post ‘bending a normal feeler gauge is the easy way to go’. 🙂
  7. If you have one and can mount it in the right way you can use a DTI dial or depth test indicator. With the dti resting on the rocker..engine on compression you can rock the rocker and get a reading. Space is minimal and it is fiddly. The most important thing is to re check the clearance after tightening the locking nut. Bending a normal feeler gauge is the easy way to go.
  8. Condenser, are the contact (points) faces blue colour....indicates condenser faulty. Check that contacts open and close freely.....the pivot bush can dry and grip the pivot post causing opening and slow to no closure.
  9. Toilet roll....food way to visibly mark out the sections. Come in handy for those ‘touching clothe’ moments😳
  10. Does it have a spark at the ht lead ? Kill switch functioning correctly? Re cleanorbust carb float valve not sticking?
  11. section swept

    2x2 SWM TL320

    Yamaha tried a version on there enduro or m/x can’t remember exactly when but is was hydraulic drive much like the SWM device.
  12. Can’t see if you are using a chain tensioner. The bike looks really good but the chain coming off the sprocket could be an alignment issue, allow by the standard presented in the photo you have probably covered that. Do you have sufficient clearance between the rear tyre and drive chain, its possible with tyre flex for the tyre to force the chain out of line and jump the sprocket. Your final drive ratio of 4.57:1 seems a bit low.....high engine revs not much speed. Running a smaller gearbox output sprocket may create chain inertia problems. I’d see if there is any data on a genuine BSA C15’T’ available. Here are some C15 specs. C15 road first 16.27 second 10.74 third 7.80 fourth (top) 5.98 gearbox sprocket 17 rear wheel 52 C15T trials first 28.53 second 22.05 third 14.67 fourth (top) 9.00 Quite a difference a difference with top producing an estimated 40-50 mph. Bear in mind the C15T had a larger inlet valve and different camshaft, there was an optional higher compression piston available giving a 10:1 ration. The BSA B40 WD spec bike had similar low gearing i.e. first and second virtually useless for road work but good for slow progress with a Squadie aboard furiously footing away through mud and crap. But third and fourth producing useful forward progress. I cannot claim the specifications as from my knowedge, rather 5 minutes on Google and all was revealed?Certainly using the ratios you have indicated will lower the internal gear ratio considerably, which will need you to decrease the rear wheel sprocket size and also the gearbox sprocket. Good luck?
  13. Bulb type horns ok up to about (manufactured)1976. After that it is a continuously sounding electric single tone horn. Two tone horns a debatable point...my partners Nissan Juke has some lovely loudish two tone horns these were factory fitted. A single horn able to produce a two tone note is akin to a police siren. Where as two separate horns sounded at once will produce a better sound warning. The regulations are not clear so a torch battery type powered horn could be classed as legitimately an electric horn. What ever you say about said MOT tester, they are probably worried about their job.
  14. Spoilt for choice, but I’d be going for the 19 .....its so easy spending someone else's money.??
  15. Well you can use an ohmmeter, so you should be able to check the wiring for the headlight and other components for short circuiting. disconnect the light and see if you can still hear clicking. Make sure there is no live loose connector(s) touching an earth point. Sort the throttle and hope that the cylinder is not badly scored. ?
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