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not ron

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  1. MICM I think you are right and Scotland will be unlikely to get a form of special deal, but do not forget unless there is a feasible sea route directly from an EU port to Scotland, the EU based riders would have to do the paperwork to travel via England.
  2. From my experience in the professional four wheeled motorsport world, even if registered, unless it is being ridden or driven as it leaves UK and enters EU it will need a Carnet, e.g. rally cars based and registered in the UK being used in EU. Professional motorsport will tend to pay the Carnet and insurance for a year at a time for multiple entries..
  3. not ron


    I think it may have been made by Eric Cheney as I remember his son Simon?? Cheney riding it in trials in the Southern and South Eastern centres in the 1970s, it probably needs to be the 1970s with the D14/4 engine.
  4. I am not aware of this specific gearbox and without seeing the parts but based on simple gearbox design rules I would expect the two options to be ( dependant on which goes together based on internal diameters and splines) 30/26/21/17 16/20/25/29 or 30/25/20/17 16/21/26/29
  5. There is an ACU Eastern sidecar championship, which will be run over three rounds in 2019, all being run by Southend club so will be in Essex. Norwich VIkings and I think Norfolk and Suffolk Junior MCC accept sidecar entries for some of their trials. ACU Eastern covers Norfolk, Suffolk and Essex and information is on their web-site. In Norfolk this Sunday (13/1) Wymondham and District MCC are running a trial at Great Ellingham starting at 10.30 if you just want to see how things run and talk to riders, there are generally quite a few twin shocks taking part.
  6. I can conclude from your comments on rider classes and routes that you probably ride ACU Eastern centre trials. We organise an annual Trials Forum where riders and organisers attend to discuss any issues and decide any changes to the way events are run. This years is November 8th starting at 8pm, at The Parish Room, Great Blakenham, Ipswich Suffolk, any input appreciated if you can attend.
  7. To go back to the original request for help I thought some might still find this interesting. I have tried to attach some photographs of one of the racks I modified to go on a factory fitted swan neck type tow bar and uses the rear towing eye fixing to stop the rack moving. These racks have worked on four different BMWS, 3 series and 4 series. The relative position of the tow ball and towing fixing does seem to change model to model so they have been modified a few times in the last 15 years. The towing eye fixing is a strange thread, eventually I identified it as an ACME thread, and again this has changed model to model. I do remember in the late 1970s there was one trials rider with a 911 with a tow bar. .
  8. I have had the same problem with three BMWs with factory fitted tow bars, the best solution was to modify the mounting plate so that a thick walled tube fitted over the ball and then made a threaded fixing which screwed into the rear towing eye socket, the front wheel loop was them modified to also bolt onto the aforesaid threaded fixing. If you want I can fit the rack tomorrow and take photographs. The other advantage is if I get stopped I am not limited by the tow bar weight limit as some of the weight is taken via the towing eye socket PS I worked on the MP4-12c starting in 2008 and two things I can tell you, there is no tow bar listed as an optional extra and I cannot remember why it had such a stupid model name /
  9. I am interested in any information or colour photographs for the Francis Barnett Model 92 from 1963 to 1966, in particular I think the frame was Arden Green, does anyone have the current code or know which car manufacturer colour may match?
  10. I have ridden 500t's for about 40 years and always use NGK plugs because in my work they have always given the best technical support and seem to operate across the widest temperature range. I used to use BP5ES but sometimes have a misfire or need to fit a new plug in longer events. Recently I have been using Iridium BPR5EIX and all the problems seem to have gone away. I use a standard BTH magneto.
  11. I would be careful using an xlite, I have ridden a 500T for about 40 years, riding the pre 65 Scottish on one for the first time in 1986 and most years since. If you use a too softer tyre it has twoo problems due to the weight and rigid rear end, firstly too many punctures and the softer the tyre the higher the pressure required to stop punctures and secondly even then the back end will move around too much. I used the Dunlop tubed tyre ( D803 or 807) until they become unavailable and now used tubed Michelin tyres. I use IRC tubed tyres on twinshocks but they are too soft and variable to use on a rigid. My advise to anyone who wants to ride a rigid competitively is get good at changing rear tubes.
  12. Tlrmark I have ridden my TLR 250 since 1996 and for the first 10 years or so it was mainly twinshock championship rounds which were not too bad on the clutch but if I rode local modern bike trials, especially if there was a need to slip the clutch in third a lot, then the clutch adjustment was all over the place. I tried new genuine friction plates and ones from another supplier and they lasted about a year before needing changing and when very hot both needed to have the cable adjusted, one was one way and one the other, I have no notes on which was which. In 2008 I fitted Barnett Kevlar plates and have not changed them since, and do not adjust the clutch during a trial. I think they might now need changing after the last trial which was very muddy and nearly 20 miles all off rode. I will do an oil change to see if this changes anything, the clutch did not slip but it was very light and felt like there was very little adjustment left on the cable. I use 4 Kevlar drive plates plus the CG125 anti rattle kit, I use the Barnett MT15 clutch springs and a good quality semi synthetic 4 stroke motorcycle oil, in the past I have had clutch problems with expensive fully synthetic car oil as it does not have the correct packages for a wet clutch. I have learnt that it helps to put a spacer behind the clutch actuator bearing so that the clutch arm is a far back as possible. I once designed and part made a kit using 4rt parts to convert to hydraulic clutch. I hope this helps.
  13. A few years ago I got TLR Barnett Kevlar friction plates and springs from PDQ Motorcycle Developements
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