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About 2stroke4stroke

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  1. Try "Classifieds" at the top of the home page.
  2. Probably a bit too old for a "Pre'65" bike then😈
  3. Where could you possibly fit the pump and the plumbing/wiring? Can't see any benefit. Bound to be a more costly setup than a standard pump I would have thought. Are you having problems?
  4. Just let it be known at trials that you're selling - word of mouth can work surprisingly well.
  5. Get the bike supported firmly on a box below the sump then test for play by moving the fork ends by hand. Easier with a pal sitting on the bike to prevent it moving and he can feel for play at the bearing.
  6. As far as I recall the UKR was just a "standard" Cota with a stripe on the petrol tank.
  7. It looks like you are not taking the normal precaution of applying grease to the walls of the airbox to trap dust?
  8. b40rt has it right - the consequences of a repair coming undone and going through the motor could be expensive.
  9. As far as modern bikes go nobody makes a "beginner bike", though there are some that might be considered expert only. 125s are designed for use by skinny teenagers and to give them as much power as can reasonably be used in the context within the artificial 125 restriction. In my limited experience of 125s they don't make riding easier - there is a delay in the power coming in when ridden in my style (and my weight of 160 lbs bbn) . Of course this can be reduced by using clutch slip and more throttle but that is just something else to distract while you are learning to negotiate sections, as opposed to blitzing in hard enduro style, and you could probably do without that. I ride a 4RT, after over forty years on two strokes, and find the delivery OK but it is different - I have no plans to go back. You won't find a Beta 200 over there so, as said, and as a broad generalisation, a 250 twostroke is probably your best bet. Having a relatively close dealer is a consideration. Some consider Betas to be outdated, having owned one for 12 years I would prefer to say, developed. Their relative poularity over here would seem to indicate they have it right.
  10. I agree with your attitude but we live in the world as it is. Easy answer, have the session run as a formal practice with ACU approval and therefore insurance cover for those signing on.
  11. As it is some years, and bikes, since I checked this and I happen to have a set of gaiters in the garage I thought I would measure my 4RT, which should be fairly representative of a typical modern bike. Distance between top of slider and bottom of yoke 178mm. Space taken up by a compressed gaiter of the type people fit to trials bikes is 60mm (but some seem to fit gaiters that are much longer than necessary so will take up even more space). I don't have access just now to my ratchet straps to measure fork travel to the last millimetre but Montesa claim 175mm so let's use that. 178 - 175 = 3mm. Try and fit a 60mm piece of solid (compressed) rubber in to that and you have lost 57mm of travel. If you've just paid £6,000 for a bike with the latest in suspension then 30% is a significant amount to lose. Now I don't go round using the modern riding techniques but the dirt tell tales indicate that even I use all but a few millimetres of the available travel.
  12. The old-fashioned way to do it was to put a spare chain link over the cable between the lever and clamp.
  13. If you measure the travel of any modern fork I have worked on then it can be seen that the this brings the slider very close to the bottom yoke. That gap is much less than needed to accommodate a concertina'd gaiter. Having always put gaiters on my bikes previously I was a bit annoyed, but not so much as to lose a good bit of the fork travel by fitting them. I imagine the same applies to the neoprene tubes.
  14. I was looking for an alternative insurer and got a good quote using this https://www.motorcyclenews.com/insurance/
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