Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Contact Information
Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Okay, so how would an electric bike do in the International Six Day Enduro ? ( I suppose you could ask for a rule change - permission for much longer stops for the hours needed for recharging compared to minutes to refuel, that sort of thing or perhaps change batteries , but decent batteries cost £thousands compared to a petrol can + some fuel at say £20 ) As I mentioned , the very expensive, cutting edge electric prototypes only do one lap at the Isle of Man, ( presumably to avoid overheating / flat battery etc. ) No thanks , I haven't seen an electric bike yet that i would want to own
  2. Sounds like its not really suitable for Enduro, Average speed will be higher than trials, plus distance traveled would normally be longer as well I would have thought. I know I am old fashioned, but electric bikes still have a lot more work needed to be better than a petrol bike I think even the electric race at the Isle of Man TT is still only 1 lap, and those bikes have had a fortune spent on them The trick is to cool the electrics without using any battery power as that will just shorten the range- if you can invent something Tesla will give you millions good luck
  3. Thank you for thinking of the non facebook users ( yes , there are millions of us who haven't been brainwashed into believing facebook is the only possible way to communicate)
  4. djr


    Yes . I do know the secondary voltage on my 2 stroke , but I am sure the ignition hasn't enough power to do welding. ( which has been quoted for the electric bike concerned in this post ) Thanks, I will take my chances with the kill button
  5. djr


    Wow , I think I will be sticking with 2 stroke power , all this talk of - 50+volts , 800A fuses, mixed with heavy rain , is not convincing me that electric is the future. Good luck, I hope its a simple fix
  6. Never been interested in Pre65 trials, because 90% of people involved seem to love moaning about what other people are doing and taking everything too seriously. I do think it would be better if the bikes at least looked like an old bike - tank shape , seat, frame , colours etc. instead of looking like a modern bike with an old engine fitted, but thats just my opinion as an outsider and its now too late to expect the riders who have spent £thousands to change their machines I ride a tatty Ossa in non serious trials , where many people have better machines than me, but I just enjoy my own riding and dont moan about what other people have got. If someone is rich and wants to spend £1000+ on a pair of forks , then good luck to them. there is a place for everyone , most trials have an easy route that any original bike could get round , you dont have to keep up with the Jones , enjoy doing your own thing. I do think its a fallacy that there are thousands of Original Bikes in sheds with owners who are just waiting for events catering for Original Bikes , there may be a few but the majority of these bikes are either Family Heirlooms , or they are being hoarded as an investment
  7. I seem to remember someone fitting an OKO carb to an RL250 , but cant remember if it was on here or another forum. As it was an RL250 not a beamish , it may have been someone in the USA or Aus , NZ etc. ? A job for Google perhaps ? Failing that you could try your Cota carb on the Beamish as it is and see if it works okay, { they are both 250cc piston port 2 strokes , so similar engines } - if okay then use the same jetting / settings as a starting point and fine tune later
  8. djr

    Kick start

    Cheap options would be - lowering compression as mentioned , OR - How about fabricating a longer kick start lever , for more leverage ?
  9. Partly Covid etc. Partly the dreaded facebook , God knows why people think facebook is easier to access - its no easier to access than any website or forum I find the layout of facebook is crap, any useful info buried in people trying to sell rubbish Anyway, this is a good site, long may it continue
  10. djr

    Pre-mix Ratios

    40/1 with a decent modern oil should be okay for trials, if doing any road riding then maybe more oil would be a good idea. I have run my Ossa MAR on this ratio with synthetic oil for years with no problems ( may have just been lucky ) personally wouldn't go any leaner than this, as I think too much oil cannot do as much harm as too little oil could do
  11. sounds like an air leak somewhere crank seals / gaskets etc. what carb have you got fitted ? have you recently worked on the bike before this happened ?
  12. There is this tank on ebay at moment is it the same ?
  13. Have you tried boiling water from a kettle ? { be careful }
  14. Sorry I have no idea what an original unused gasket would measure up to, but I do have a cheap looking aftermarket MAR gasket ( not Vintco) here in blue card that measures .020 inch Your .030 inch gasket will crush down a small amount when assembled & all screws torqued up, but the only way to see how much would be to - 1.assemble - 2. torque up screws 3. - dismantle - 4. measure gasket ( then buy another Vintco gasket to use if you are happy with measurements ) If you say the old gasket AVERAGES -.025 inch , then I wouldn't think you are far off Are the tolerances that fine on an Ossa ? I need to rebuild my own MAR engine soon, and I think I would rather have too much clearance rather than too little - better loose than something binding - I will be looking for a thicker gasket than the one I have
  15. djr

    OSSA MAR oil leak

    Hello, I have an Ossa MAR and it has always leaked a little from the gear lever shaft - probably because it doesn't have a proper oil seal - I think it has something like a felt washer on the inside and an O ring on the shaft I have renewed these and it still drips now and then There should not be a leak between crankcase halves as this has a gasket , and if your engine has recently been rebuilt with a fresh gasket then it should be oil tight - you also don't want this gasket to leak gearbox oil internally into the crankcase area, or air to leak from the crankcase area - probably the most important gasket on the engine & the hardest to change The only other place I have had a leak is from the gearbox sprocket oil seal { a new seal fixed this }- this could possibly run down underneath the engine If the leak really is between the crankcase halves , and you have paid to have the engine rebuilt - then I think you should have a chat with whoever did it , to confirm what work was done
  • Create New...