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djr

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About djr

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  • Bike
    ossa 250 mar

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  • Location
    southern england

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  1. Has anybody tried removing the ethanol from the petrol before use, as an alternative to sealants etc ? there was at least one company selling a kit { Ethanil.co.uk , I think was one ? } I remember reading an article where you added a certain amount of water to your petrol, the ethanol would then be absorbed by the water. this ethanol + water mixture would then separate from the petrol and sink to the bottom of your container and then you syphoned off the now ethanol-free petrol . sounded a good idea , but never met anyone who tried it. if it works the only problem I can see is that you are still left with all the other modern additives still in your petrol and these may also attack glass fibre
  2. If you are worried about - potential bike thieves , then any type of advertising lets people know you have a bike . But it wont sell if no-one knows its for sale ? you are possibly safer advertising it on trials forums / club websites etc , but your ad wont be seen by many people if you don't trust ebay , then definitely don't advertise it on facebook whatever you do TMX is weekly so worth a try, or if you are in no hurry maybe try some monthly magazines ? if you want top retail money for it then you will have to advertise & sell it yourself , otherwise maybe ask some bike shops if they are interested in selling on your behalf { they will obviously want a reasonable cut of the selling price } good luck
  3. If you only want to kill the bacteria that causes the smell , you could try putting the helmet in a bag , then put the helmet in a freezer for a few hours . I haven't tried this myself , but I have a friend who has flameproof overalls & helmet for car racing - he tries to avoid washing as he reckons this reduces the flame retardant properties. when his kit gets a bit smelly { but not dirty } he puts it all in a sealed bag and leaves overnight in freezer
  4. It does sound like you have the wrong seals . I have replaced several over the years and have never needed to use much force
  5. although not strictly necessary , a couple of thin coats of etch primer before you put on the filler/primer can help with adhesion
  6. perhaps making a plug that fits tightly - then drill and pin ? or drill and screw ? or glue if you can find something that will withstand high temperatures ?
  7. Only every winter ? you are very lucky , mine gets stuck every time I ride it ! If I ride it today , it will definitely be stuck tomorrow . in fact sometimes just letting it cool down for an hour is enough for it to stick. as for releasing it, as has been said - bump start it and ride it while pulling in the clutch is one method that usually works for me in a few minutes. or pull in clutch and keep kicking over till it releases ( ignition off ) perhaps you could hold the clutch lever in with a cable tie ? when not using the bike
  8. as others have said, if you really cant get the hang of riding the 300 maybe look at a 200 or 125. But maybe avoid a 125 if you are a bit tall or heavy
  9. Thanks, probably wouldn't have looked under ATV / Quad
  10. would you have the Electrex part no. for that please ? my own Beamish has its original ignition components, but they are all looking a bit frail , and I expect its only a matter of time before the ignition plays up
  11. djr

    smokey mar

    My own MAR starting smoking suddenly one day, but had been fine when ridden the previous week. turned out to be crank oil seal on clutch side had somehow got stuck to the crankshaft and was rotating with it ! { no idea how this could happen, but it did } fitted new seal with some adhesive and its been fine since, worst part of the job was removing the cush-drive off the Crankshaft to access the seal
  12. I think its the Petrol that does this . I don't know the proper scientific term for it { but I am sure someone does, and will be along shortly} its as if the plastic is porous and the petrol soaks into it. Perhaps different types of Petrol and the different Premix oil cause different effects / colour changes ? and of course could be explained by different types of plastic being used to manufacture two tanks that look the same ? as for prevention, I guess you could get a new tank and fill it and drain it on the days you ride without leaving petrol in overnight may work ?
  13. Sorry you haven't had any replies , I cant help as I have never owned a pre65 bike maybe you have had no replies because you are thinking of using actual real old 1964 parts ? most people these days would be fitting - New Billet "pre65" yokes into a New "Replica Pre65" Frame Have you contacted any of the classic specialists ? like Sammy miller products , Terry Weedy
  14. Would bikes like Beamish Suzuki count ? ( British built frame & tank , assembled in Brighton ? ) or Yamaha HL500 ? ( assembled by NVT in the UK , with British built Frame )
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