ColinPybus

Testing with the ohms resistance at 200 I'm getting 34 ohms.

Thanks again, how can I determine if my coils faulty? I've a digital multimeter but have limited knowledge in it's use. I can check for resistance, ohms and voltages. Do you know of any readings between the spade connectors themselves and either spade connector and the ht lead? I get a reading of 049 when I probe the spade connectors and the meter makes a noise.

Thanks Woody, you got me thinking, and I realised the gear change lever shaft had far too much end float so the plunger was not engaging with the selector drum detent. All sorted now , I just can't get it to spark!

Thanks again Woody for getting touch. Engine is in the bike , I'll take it off the bike lift and try it. Yes the plunger is fitted. I'll let you know how I get on. Best regards, Colin.

Hello All, Recently rebuilt my engine, but I can't find neutral. Can change through the box using the kick-start, but it's always in gear. Any ideas? Thanks.

Please see previous posts on rear brake mod. There's plenty of room for the rod, however I'm removing this and replacing with 8mm thick walled tubing for better strength. Rear brake arm lever still needs a bit more tinkering . Still struggling to attach photos, they always seem to be too big to attach. Can't remember how I've done it before.

One year later and I've just fitted my rear brake rod ( 5mm diameter) to the rose joint off the brake pedal and to a new rear drum brake arm I've made. All ok but rod flexes ( bends) when in use , not ideal. To this end I've ordered some 8mm diameter thick wall tubing which I hope will do the job. Hopefully I'll put some pics on the site once I'm done. P.S. I found out too late you cannot fit the brake pedal once the engines in. I had to grind of the left hand side to get it to fit and then fitted a longer oilite bush and sleeve to make up the lack of length.

Thanks Woody, I'll keep looking.

Hello everybody, Does anybody know where I can buy a Kickstarter for my 75 250 MAR in the UK? TIA Colin

Thanks Woody.

Hello all, Do I need a chain tensioner if I'm just green laning my 250MAR? TIA

With reference to an earlier post on here about a broken threaded boss on the right side engine casing on a 250 Mar, I have the same problem on mine. Upon further inspection I noticed the hole for the thread was a further 10mm deeper from where it was broken off. Using an M6 machine tap I managed to tap the hole to the bottom giving more than enough length and strength for an M6 countersink bolt. The only problem I'll have now is sourcing a bolt long enough! Site won't let me send pic as over 2mb big. Can this be changed or is there something I need to do? I've sent pics before no bother.

Thanks IDC good price as well.

Thanks for that, I'll size the seal at the sprocket end and go from there.

Ok cheers for that, I didn't realise there was a ball between the rods. I can't remember seeing one when I stripped it. I'll have a closer look at the drawing I have. Rods are about 112mm long and a non standard English or metric size. I think they were 0.225" in diameter. I was thinking of using through hardened 6mm diameter pins (0.236") that will fit easily and now I know, a 6mn ball bearing. Thanks again.