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About netley

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    1981 Montesa 349

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  1. Cheers, A friend made me a puller to remove the primary drive sprocket when I changed the crank seals. I'll ask if he can make an adaptor for that...
  2. Managed to cut a slot in with a multi tool and got the nut off by using a screwdriver in the slot.I can't get the stud out as I would like to at least clean it up put it just turns.... Got a puller behind the sprocket and put tension on it.Given it plenty of thumps wit a hammer and will leave it overnight I suppose.
  3. I had a 1976 Bultaco 191 but couldn't get used to the right hand gearchange. I now have a 1981 Montesa 349 and don't find myself changing down when I want the rear brake ? Bought both from the twinshock shop in Sidmouth so you may be local?
  4. Offending nut indicated.
  5. Hi, I'm trying to remove the front sprocket off my 1981 349. I can't get my 3 legged puller on and trying to remove the curved bracket that goes around the sprocket. I've taken the bolt off that holds the chain tensioner on but when trying to undo the top nut the whole thing is turning and won't undo. I'm concerned as to what is at the back of the threaded part as it goes into the case and I don't know if it's undoing something inside. I'll attach a pic when I can resize it correctly. Cheers Neil
  6. I am now only awaiting confirmation from the DVLA telling me what my registration number will be and it will be road ready /legal. I am thinking of trying to get the fuel tank looking a little tidier. Does anyone have any experience of painting these tanks? It's plastic though it has been repaired underneath with fibreglass.
  7. Hi All, Having got the leaking clutch case sorted, it was the seals around the gear selector and clutch actuator shafts, I am now in the process of road registering it. It now has an MOT and the NOVA docs are with HMRC as we speak. The bike has a wiring loom and I am trying to get working lights on it but the switch is not original and there are a couple of wires not connected. Does anyone know of a suitable alternative to the originals as these seem to be around the £100 mark. Cheers.
  8. Gear change shaft wobble. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Qj4XUUBJl8
  9. When I first did the crank seals it ran ok until it got warm then the oil started coming out from the filler plug which I had drilled a hole in. I blocked this and then it appeared from the shaft seal which I presume are worn. I put 300ml of oil in which is as per the manual. I'm hoping that when I change the shaft seals this may sort it but I'm now concerned over the play in the gear change shaft. I will film this and put it on YouTube and hopefully all your knowledge will point me in a positive direction
  10. Yes, i had oil coming out of the hole. I blocked it and it started coming out from the clutch and gear shafts as before. When I can get the seals out for the clutch and gear shafts I will change them but I noticed the gear shaft has a lot of movement and the mechanism it is linked to in the clutch case moves. I'm presuming this should not be so?
  11. I have now replaced the crank seals and the problem persists. After another talk with InMotion I am now going to replace the clutch actuating arm seal and the gear change shaft seal in the clutch case. Any tips as to how to remove the old ones? Cheers. Neil
  12. Well I have had no luck with getting the primary drive gear off. Searched for tools and then rang InMotion Trials and asked if they sold a puller for this. He laughed loud and heartily at this and said to grind the gear off and buy a new one from him. An old friend who's a right clever bugger, had a look and later rang me to send him dimensions for the shaft and drive gear, etc. He popped over today with something he'd made. I fitted it, tightened it, gave it a good whack and tightened it again. Off it popped. Here is a video of how it works taken when I had put the gear back on for realism purposes. One happy chappy.
  13. I would suggest using the decompressor lever (by the clutch) if trying to start it or you can get a very sore leg/shin if it kicks back. It lets you move the piston just past top dead centre to a position where you can have a swing at it. Slowly push the kickstarter down until it won't move then pull the decompressor lever in until the kickstarter will move slowly and it has gone over TDC. You should be able to kick it all the way down then. Wear sturdy boots and try it a couple of times with fuel off first to practice. Everyone starts somewhere and there is a wealth of knowledge here and I'm no expert at all so I'm always asking advice. Keep us posted.
  14. You need to change gearbox oil which is the plug under the bash plate and fills above in the middle of the engine. Also the transmission oil which drains from below the gear lever and fills from above it to the left of the clutch arm. Did you see the link to the manual Sparky? I can send a pdf if you would like. It's in Spanish with English as well. Oils are listed as Gearbox SAE 90 and transmission SAE 10w30
  15. Small lever opens a valve next to the spark plug which stops any compression in the cylinder. This allows you to turn the engine over past TDC when starting. I wondered if that was stuck open. TBH I'm pretty new to these myself and also in South West. Is there compression when you put it into gear and try to push it with clutch released?
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