not ron

My TLR250 definitely has 6 gears, and according to the specifications I have so does the TLR200 but strangely the ratios are the same for 3rd, 5th and 6th but different for the others.

I do not think this is possible to withdraw an entry from the entrant side. I have used Sport:80 twice as secretary of the meeting and have received requests for entries to be withdrawn which I have normally been able to do, the process for the club is quite simple but the amount of refund is determined by the Sprort:80/Stripe random number generator. For the first event we ran, based on a fixed entry fee, the club randomly received four different credits per entry, for the second event it seems to be constant.

This may ( and then obviously may not) be of interest as not specifically related to electric trials bikes About 20 years ago I was on a test trip and one evening in the hotel we ended up talking about my motorcycle trials and the engine management guys believed they could engineer a simple traction control system but there are several points to consider As an internal combustion engine with no electronic control of airflow, via throttle or slide, it could only be spark based, simply instantaneously cutting or retarding spark. On a four wheeled vehicle traction control is managed by instantaneously monitoring all the wheel speeds and then responding when the instantaneous wheel speed deltas go above certain thresholds, on more modern cars things like dynamic stability control ,yaw sensors etc get involved. On a trials motorcycle this is more complicated as the relationship between front at rear wheel speed may intentionally be changed by the rider. The only logic we concluded was that for each gear there would be a maximum rate of rear wheel acceleration for an engine speed range and if the acceleration was above that then it must be wheel spin and the system could respond instantly until the wheel acceleration is reduced to within the per gear threshold. With the addition of a rear wheel speed sensor by comparing the relationship between rear wheel speed and engine speed the engaged gear can be determined. The limit for assuming rear wheel spin is occurring should be programable for each gear or different maps and this could be selectable by switch to suit different types of sections and riding/traction conditions. The same switch could turn the system off, the position I think it would end up in most cases. For an electric trials motorcycle, if there is only a single gear, then rate of change of engine speed may suffice but generally in cars the system response is reduced the further away from the tyre contact patch the system input speed is being monitored. I am assuming that electric motor speed change is sensed before loss of demand current as effectively the increase in rate of engine speed change would trigger the reduction in current demand. The final point which the engine management guys could not understand is how much a trials rider already responds to wheel spin or in many cases assumes it will happen and reacts accordingly , and the system may in most cases by changing the characteristic response to the throttle just interfere with the way the rider expects the machine to respond. Another though there have been times with modern cars where I have got stuck going into a trial venue where whatever button on the dashboard I press, or not, the system will not allow me just to spin the wheels enough to get through the mud

I have a Majesty which I rode in the Sebac rounds in the 1990s both as a 250 and 320, and I also tried the standard and long front pipes. During the 2021 lockdown I was running out of bike projects so refurbished the Majesty and decided to rebuild as a 250 with the long front pipe. I think for me this gives the most rideable specification for more natural sections where you are not expected to drop the clutch at high revs to launch at a large step, and, in general riding, made the engine seem more predictable. My career was/is in engine design and the most important tuning effect on the front pipe is the length to internal diameter ratio, the longer the pipe is relative to the internal diameter the stronger the engine will feel at lower engine speeds and vice-versa. The other factor I believe that can have an overall bigger factor is fitting electronic ignition, in particular to give more advance at higher engine speed to recover what may be lost by the use of the longer front pipe, but I believe the loss is virtually impossible to detect in most sections, as long wet hills where a higher gear is required are now less common.

The upgrade most people do is the taper roller bearings as I defined

This is complicated, assuming you mean taper rolling bearings, if not then I cannot help. The upper bearing is 48.5 x 26 x 15, the lower is 48.5 x 27 x 17. or some lower bearings are 15 deep with a reduced diameter boss on the lower side, note the internal diameters are different upper to lower. ,

I suspect it fits on the rear wheel spindle, sprocket side, and acts as the mounting for the chain tubes.

Toolbox?

MICM I think you are right and Scotland will be unlikely to get a form of special deal, but do not forget unless there is a feasible sea route directly from an EU port to Scotland, the EU based riders would have to do the paperwork to travel via England.

From my experience in the professional four wheeled motorsport world, even if registered, unless it is being ridden or driven as it leaves UK and enters EU it will need a Carnet, e.g. rally cars based and registered in the UK being used in EU. Professional motorsport will tend to pay the Carnet and insurance for a year at a time for multiple entries..

I think it may have been made by Eric Cheney as I remember his son Simon?? Cheney riding it in trials in the Southern and South Eastern centres in the 1970s, it probably needs to be the 1970s with the D14/4 engine.

I am not aware of this specific gearbox and without seeing the parts but based on simple gearbox design rules I would expect the two options to be ( dependant on which goes together based on internal diameters and splines) 30/26/21/17 16/20/25/29 or 30/25/20/17 16/21/26/29

There is an ACU Eastern sidecar championship, which will be run over three rounds in 2019, all being run by Southend club so will be in Essex. Norwich VIkings and I think Norfolk and Suffolk Junior MCC accept sidecar entries for some of their trials. ACU Eastern covers Norfolk, Suffolk and Essex and information is on their web-site. In Norfolk this Sunday (13/1) Wymondham and District MCC are running a trial at Great Ellingham starting at 10.30 if you just want to see how things run and talk to riders, there are generally quite a few twin shocks taking part.

I can conclude from your comments on rider classes and routes that you probably ride ACU Eastern centre trials. We organise an annual Trials Forum where riders and organisers attend to discuss any issues and decide any changes to the way events are run. This years is November 8th starting at 8pm, at The Parish Room, Great Blakenham, Ipswich Suffolk, any input appreciated if you can attend.

To go back to the original request for help I thought some might still find this interesting. I have tried to attach some photographs of one of the racks I modified to go on a factory fitted swan neck type tow bar and uses the rear towing eye fixing to stop the rack moving. These racks have worked on four different BMWS, 3 series and 4 series. The relative position of the tow ball and towing fixing does seem to change model to model so they have been modified a few times in the last 15 years. The towing eye fixing is a strange thread, eventually I identified it as an ACME thread, and again this has changed model to model. I do remember in the late 1970s there was one trials rider with a 911 with a tow bar. .

I have had the same problem with three BMWs with factory fitted tow bars, the best solution was to modify the mounting plate so that a thick walled tube fitted over the ball and then made a threaded fixing which screwed into the rear towing eye socket, the front wheel loop was them modified to also bolt onto the aforesaid threaded fixing. If you want I can fit the rack tomorrow and take photographs. The other advantage is if I get stopped I am not limited by the tow bar weight limit as some of the weight is taken via the towing eye socket PS I worked on the MP4-12c starting in 2008 and two things I can tell you, there is no tow bar listed as an optional extra and I cannot remember why it had such a stupid model name /

I am interested in any information or colour photographs for the Francis Barnett Model 92 from 1963 to 1966, in particular I think the frame was Arden Green, does anyone have the current code or know which car manufacturer colour may match?

I have ridden 500t's for about 40 years and always use NGK plugs because in my work they have always given the best technical support and seem to operate across the widest temperature range. I used to use BP5ES but sometimes have a misfire or need to fit a new plug in longer events. Recently I have been using Iridium BPR5EIX and all the problems seem to have gone away. I use a standard BTH magneto.

I would be careful using an xlite, I have ridden a 500T for about 40 years, riding the pre 65 Scottish on one for the first time in 1986 and most years since. If you use a too softer tyre it has twoo problems due to the weight and rigid rear end, firstly too many punctures and the softer the tyre the higher the pressure required to stop punctures and secondly even then the back end will move around too much. I used the Dunlop tubed tyre ( D803 or 807) until they become unavailable and now used tubed Michelin tyres. I use IRC tubed tyres on twinshocks but they are too soft and variable to use on a rigid. My advise to anyone who wants to ride a rigid competitively is get good at changing rear tubes.

Tlrmark I have ridden my TLR 250 since 1996 and for the first 10 years or so it was mainly twinshock championship rounds which were not too bad on the clutch but if I rode local modern bike trials, especially if there was a need to slip the clutch in third a lot, then the clutch adjustment was all over the place. I tried new genuine friction plates and ones from another supplier and they lasted about a year before needing changing and when very hot both needed to have the cable adjusted, one was one way and one the other, I have no notes on which was which. In 2008 I fitted Barnett Kevlar plates and have not changed them since, and do not adjust the clutch during a trial. I think they might now need changing after the last trial which was very muddy and nearly 20 miles all off rode. I will do an oil change to see if this changes anything, the clutch did not slip but it was very light and felt like there was very little adjustment left on the cable. I use 4 Kevlar drive plates plus the CG125 anti rattle kit, I use the Barnett MT15 clutch springs and a good quality semi synthetic 4 stroke motorcycle oil, in the past I have had clutch problems with expensive fully synthetic car oil as it does not have the correct packages for a wet clutch. I have learnt that it helps to put a spacer behind the clutch actuator bearing so that the clutch arm is a far back as possible. I once designed and part made a kit using 4rt parts to convert to hydraulic clutch. I hope this helps.

A few years ago I got TLR Barnett Kevlar friction plates and springs from PDQ Motorcycle Developements

Vanman, the 4T I have been working on would start cold without choke and then would not start hot, the original idle jet was a 45, with a 35 it starts when hot but runs a bit lean, probably a 37 or 38 jet would be best. What idle jet do you have?

Currently I am trying to get a 2008 bike to start when hot, and am making some progress, what idle jet do you have fitted? Also as a clue when cold will your bike start without the choke?

28 to 30 Nm