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  1. Wire it as per my previous post or run the red wire from condensor to coil on same terminal as black wire. The insulating washer are to isolate the side of the points going to the coil from the frame....you really need to learn to use google.
  2. Hi - I have had some difficulty dating my TLR, I believe it is quite an early model, grey import from Japan to Oz. Engine MD09E 1005839. I decided to replace timing chain and guides ....no problems with the chain but the guides (Chinese off ebay) I have appear to be too short. They have correct numbers ie: Replaces OEM Part Number: 14500-427-000 (Tensionser), 14550-427-000 (Guide) But front guide only just sits in position and rear there is no way I can install top bolt .....at least 5mm short. Do these stretch. Pics below show old guides v new guides. Base and head gasket are correct thickness. Do you think they are just too short or am I missing something?
  3. Not sure you need the red wire, maybe a lighting wire. Your black wire should go to condensor and on to the ignition coil with a loop going to kill switch. There are only two wires in the ignition circuit.
  4. If you have an after market muffler, try removing or replacing it. Can make massive difference to performance.
  5. Air leak in carbie area ...google check carbie air leak...very simple test
  6. I think retarding the timing will fix your problem ...if you find it is running hot that suggests you have gone too far. Also can't stress enough that you must set plug gap ....out of the box is too big and the spark will fail.
  7. Check plug gap...it is very important. Otherwise back timing off 1 degree and see how it goes.
  8. Yes but in my 247 there are three magneto coils .... the largest is the ignition system
  9. Not if red is coming off a separate magneto coil .... don't know about 248 but on my 247 it does.
  10. Tap it into the low tension (black) lead going to the coil. Th button earths to frame killing the power going to the coil. I don’t think your red lead should go to condensor as the condenser also is part of the coil circuit ie:black wire. Red lead is/was probably lighting circuit
  11. My Cota hated ATF, more false neutrals than gears and jumping out constantly. I run the recommended gear oil which I think is 80W 90 and usually just the occasional jump between first and second. IMO ATF is too thin and may explain the leaky seal
  12. It moght help that I have emptied my in box = try again
  13. that's because your posting the message on your own profile. clock on my avatar and top of screen choose Message

  14. PM me your email and I will sned you what I have, mine is 76 but close enough
  15. I agree with Splatered Stu - just disconnect and stick under the seat. You just use the existing kill switch ...pretty easy.
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