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dr nosh

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About dr nosh

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  • Bike
    Cota 248

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    Planet Earth

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  1. Yes. The arrowed part is the chain/wheel alignment device. It acts as a cam, rotating about the spindle and bearing against a peg just forward of the wheel axle. The position should be the same on both sides. Judging by the postion of the cams, it looks like either the chain is badly adjusted, or more likely the chain and both sprockets are worn out. Photograph below is from my later 248 model, but the same principle. Note the notches in the outer diameter. This is the position with brand new chain and sprockets.
  2. dr nosh

    349 rebuild take 3

    Looking good. Bars. 22mm = 7/8". The original bars would have been 1". You will probably need a set of shims to go into the standard clamps. I have a set available. PM me. Rear sprocket. What locking have you got on the nuts? Spring washer or thread lock? M8 pinch bolt in the bottom of the r/h fork leg? Agree, I had good service from Bike Revival UK.
  3. Yep. Try to get a matt finish on the decals as well. Not easy though. Pleanty of soapy water.
  4. Make sure that you 'flat' all the gloss to a matt finish with 1200 grit or the clear coat will not adhere and will eventually lift. Clearcoat is 'thinner' than paint with colour pigments, so don't layer on too thickly, just light coats and a few of them. Dust control is very important with clearcoat - it will show all the inclusions and imperfections. Good luck.
  5. When I did mine, I used a rattle can for the primer/filler build up, then rattle can brilliant white. Flatted it back to matt (500 and 1200 grit), applied decals (last original set from Vallmoto), then had an aquaintance with a body shop apply 2k clear coat in his painting booth. That was petrol proof.
  6. As has been said above, its not going to be the use of a f/glass tank at a twinshock trial, but rathermore the E5 and E10 ethanol containing fuels that will be effectively be 'eating' and destroying the fibreglass. (Along with fuel lines, plastic carb floats, rubber tipped and plastic float needles). Its a well documented fact.
  7. Marky. Are you riding with the Dabbers group (East Anglia)?
  8. Marky16. What kind of help are you looking for? You dont know how many teeth on front or rear sprocket? You dont know where to buy standard sprockets? You have purchased some standard sprockets but they dont fit the rear wheel or the gearbox shaft? Your 520 chain does not fit the sprockets that you already have? Your 520 chain is slipping/jumping on the sprockets that you already have? etc, etc. Be a bit more specific or descriptive to help us help you.
  9. Actually called https://www.angliavinylart.co.uk/ Based in Norwich.
  10. I have a spare alloy petrol tank, and a fibre glass cover, not specifically for 200 but might well fit. Any use? PM me some pictures and I will look to see if they (tank and cover) are likely to fit.
  11. Its now running, after a long, a very long restoration. Started with a frame, and the rest of it was in cardboard boxes, and all jumbled up. Oh, I do like a jigsaw puzzle.
  12. OK, so my Googling skill need increasing, and thank for your help, its appreciated, .......but.......the reason for the problem......not how I had wired it up.....new NGK plug, new NGK cap.....and the rubber moisture cover actually preventing the plug from 'snapping' home on the connection. Removed the rubber cover and bingo, a connection and a spark.? Now who would have thought that would have been the issue?? Wasted hours on this......arrrgh.?
  13. Engine casing screws are M7, various lengths. The countersunk heads are not flat on the outer slottted face but domed. M7 is NOT a standard size. You will be very lucky to find anybody with that size in stock. I considered making a set from scratch, turning from blank. I finally bought a set from www.vallmoto.com in Valencia, Spain. Just had a quick look, currently not shown for 349 but there are some listed for 348. I know that they don't alway show what they actually have available. Send them an e mail, but don't forget, they work 'Spanish Time'
  14. Still struggling with this. Which side should the Yellow be attached to? The 'fixed side' Left, or the 'moving side' Right? Wha is the purpose of the insulating washers on either side of the bolt through the points? In the package with the new condenser was this Red wire. Looks like this solders to the 'button' point of the condenser, but what does the terminal connect to? (In the first picture of the coils, the red wire is the extended lead to go up to the condenser that I will mount under the tank)
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