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dr nosh

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  1. Engine through bolts are M7 (as are all the engine outer casings). I did not torque mine up. Just used flat washer, spring washer, drop of thread lock. You might have to resprt to the Dremel method to remove the bearing race out - 3 or 4 surgical cuts....
  2. Very common problem. That lug on the kickstart shaft always causes this damage if rotated too far round. Seen it lots of time, and search posts on here for other pictures etc. Will need proper welding - preparation is key. If the case is oily welding will be difficult. Casting will need thorough degreasing. So, engine out, head and barrel off, split crankcases etc, etc. Otherwise the timing case will fill with water, mud, oil etc and spoil the Electrex electronic ignition that somebody (you?) have fitted.
  3. Try Vallmoto in Valencia, Spain. I bought most of my 248 parts from them.
  4. dr nosh

    MONTESA 348 MRR

    Hey. Nice collection of bins. Really though, bike looks like its had very little use?
  5. Pressurize with a high pressure, low volume hand pump as used on MTB forks and some MTB shocks.
  6. dr nosh

    MH 200

    Also heard that kickstart gears are 'a known problem'. I was looking to buy this bike, but I'm cooling off a little....😐
  7. dr nosh

    MH 200

    Last on here a lot when building a 248. Now that has gone, I am looking at a MH200, year 1983. (According to the VMCC dating cert for the V5). So, one key question. It has a plastic tank under the cover. What is the current position with modern, ethanol fuel with the plastic. Do you need to use a 'special' additive in the fuel? Does the tank have to be lined? Is there an alloy fuel tank from another Montesa that fits as a replacement?
  8. This is a very good source for carburettor information and spare parts. https://surreycycles.com/
  9. How about: https://clasicaslegendarias.com/shop/en/cota-247/2216-product-2216.html
  10. Your gear change problem is the dimpled plate held in place by the M6 nut. Its an eccentric adjuster. Has to be i the right pace to get all the gears. Its a 40 year old bike, laid up for 20 years. I would budget for: Crankshaft seals (can be replaced without splitting the cases). You need a special puller tool to get the pinion gear off the crankshaft. Dont try to use anything else, you will damage the pinion gear. Have a look at bore and rings. You might get away with honing the bore. Flush out the fuel tank (alloy under the f/glass cover). Clean carb and jets. (Its a mkII concentric) Ensure float and shut off needle are E10 proof. (Go to Surry Cycles for carb parts. Replace the fuel pipe tank tap to carb. E10 will eat the old rubber. Replace air cleaner. Swinging arm bushes check Rear shocks - check damping General lubrication - cables Check grease in wheel bearings, Lube chain. Tyres - Probably perished, replace + tubes Could go on. Hope this helps.
  11. No, sorry. Sold a long time ago now with a job lot of other Montesa spares. (Was advertised on here)
  12. Yes. The arrowed part is the chain/wheel alignment device. It acts as a cam, rotating about the spindle and bearing against a peg just forward of the wheel axle. The position should be the same on both sides. Judging by the postion of the cams, it looks like either the chain is badly adjusted, or more likely the chain and both sprockets are worn out. Photograph below is from my later 248 model, but the same principle. Note the notches in the outer diameter. This is the position with brand new chain and sprockets.
  13. Looking good. Bars. 22mm = 7/8". The original bars would have been 1". You will probably need a set of shims to go into the standard clamps. I have a set available. PM me. Rear sprocket. What locking have you got on the nuts? Spring washer or thread lock? M8 pinch bolt in the bottom of the r/h fork leg? Agree, I had good service from Bike Revival UK.
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