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dr nosh

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  1. How about: https://clasicaslegendarias.com/shop/en/cota-247/2216-product-2216.html
  2. Your gear change problem is the dimpled plate held in place by the M6 nut. Its an eccentric adjuster. Has to be i the right pace to get all the gears. Its a 40 year old bike, laid up for 20 years. I would budget for: Crankshaft seals (can be replaced without splitting the cases). You need a special puller tool to get the pinion gear off the crankshaft. Dont try to use anything else, you will damage the pinion gear. Have a look at bore and rings. You might get away with honing the bore. Flush out the fuel tank (alloy under the f/glass cover). Clean carb and jets. (Its a mkII concentric) Ensure float and shut off needle are E10 proof. (Go to Surry Cycles for carb parts. Replace the fuel pipe tank tap to carb. E10 will eat the old rubber. Replace air cleaner. Swinging arm bushes check Rear shocks - check damping General lubrication - cables Check grease in wheel bearings, Lube chain. Tyres - Probably perished, replace + tubes Could go on. Hope this helps.
  3. No, sorry. Sold a long time ago now with a job lot of other Montesa spares. (Was advertised on here)
  4. Yes. The arrowed part is the chain/wheel alignment device. It acts as a cam, rotating about the spindle and bearing against a peg just forward of the wheel axle. The position should be the same on both sides. Judging by the postion of the cams, it looks like either the chain is badly adjusted, or more likely the chain and both sprockets are worn out. Photograph below is from my later 248 model, but the same principle. Note the notches in the outer diameter. This is the position with brand new chain and sprockets.
  5. Looking good. Bars. 22mm = 7/8". The original bars would have been 1". You will probably need a set of shims to go into the standard clamps. I have a set available. PM me. Rear sprocket. What locking have you got on the nuts? Spring washer or thread lock? M8 pinch bolt in the bottom of the r/h fork leg? Agree, I had good service from Bike Revival UK.
  6. Yep. Try to get a matt finish on the decals as well. Not easy though. Pleanty of soapy water.
  7. Make sure that you 'flat' all the gloss to a matt finish with 1200 grit or the clear coat will not adhere and will eventually lift. Clearcoat is 'thinner' than paint with colour pigments, so don't layer on too thickly, just light coats and a few of them. Dust control is very important with clearcoat - it will show all the inclusions and imperfections. Good luck.
  8. When I did mine, I used a rattle can for the primer/filler build up, then rattle can brilliant white. Flatted it back to matt (500 and 1200 grit), applied decals (last original set from Vallmoto), then had an aquaintance with a body shop apply 2k clear coat in his painting booth. That was petrol proof.
  9. As has been said above, its not going to be the use of a f/glass tank at a twinshock trial, but rathermore the E5 and E10 ethanol containing fuels that will be effectively be 'eating' and destroying the fibreglass. (Along with fuel lines, plastic carb floats, rubber tipped and plastic float needles). Its a well documented fact.
  10. Marky. Are you riding with the Dabbers group (East Anglia)?
  11. Marky16. What kind of help are you looking for? You dont know how many teeth on front or rear sprocket? You dont know where to buy standard sprockets? You have purchased some standard sprockets but they dont fit the rear wheel or the gearbox shaft? Your 520 chain does not fit the sprockets that you already have? Your 520 chain is slipping/jumping on the sprockets that you already have? etc, etc. Be a bit more specific or descriptive to help us help you.
  12. Actually called https://www.angliavinylart.co.uk/ Based in Norwich.
  13. I have a spare alloy petrol tank, and a fibre glass cover, not specifically for 200 but might well fit. Any use? PM me some pictures and I will look to see if they (tank and cover) are likely to fit.
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