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dr nosh

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Everything posted by dr nosh

  1. Yes. The arrowed part is the chain/wheel alignment device. It acts as a cam, rotating about the spindle and bearing against a peg just forward of the wheel axle. The position should be the same on both sides. Judging by the postion of the cams, it looks like either the chain is badly adjusted, or more likely the chain and both sprockets are worn out. Photograph below is from my later 248 model, but the same principle. Note the notches in the outer diameter. This is the position with brand new chain and sprockets.
  2. dr nosh

    349 rebuild take 3

    Looking good. Bars. 22mm = 7/8". The original bars would have been 1". You will probably need a set of shims to go into the standard clamps. I have a set available. PM me. Rear sprocket. What locking have you got on the nuts? Spring washer or thread lock? M8 pinch bolt in the bottom of the r/h fork leg? Agree, I had good service from Bike Revival UK.
  3. Yep. Try to get a matt finish on the decals as well. Not easy though. Pleanty of soapy water.
  4. Make sure that you 'flat' all the gloss to a matt finish with 1200 grit or the clear coat will not adhere and will eventually lift. Clearcoat is 'thinner' than paint with colour pigments, so don't layer on too thickly, just light coats and a few of them. Dust control is very important with clearcoat - it will show all the inclusions and imperfections. Good luck.
  5. When I did mine, I used a rattle can for the primer/filler build up, then rattle can brilliant white. Flatted it back to matt (500 and 1200 grit), applied decals (last original set from Vallmoto), then had an aquaintance with a body shop apply 2k clear coat in his painting booth. That was petrol proof.
  6. As has been said above, its not going to be the use of a f/glass tank at a twinshock trial, but rathermore the E5 and E10 ethanol containing fuels that will be effectively be 'eating' and destroying the fibreglass. (Along with fuel lines, plastic carb floats, rubber tipped and plastic float needles). Its a well documented fact.
  7. Marky. Are you riding with the Dabbers group (East Anglia)?
  8. Marky16. What kind of help are you looking for? You dont know how many teeth on front or rear sprocket? You dont know where to buy standard sprockets? You have purchased some standard sprockets but they dont fit the rear wheel or the gearbox shaft? Your 520 chain does not fit the sprockets that you already have? Your 520 chain is slipping/jumping on the sprockets that you already have? etc, etc. Be a bit more specific or descriptive to help us help you.
  9. Actually called https://www.angliavinylart.co.uk/ Based in Norwich.
  10. I have a spare alloy petrol tank, and a fibre glass cover, not specifically for 200 but might well fit. Any use? PM me some pictures and I will look to see if they (tank and cover) are likely to fit.
  11. Its now running, after a long, a very long restoration. Started with a frame, and the rest of it was in cardboard boxes, and all jumbled up. Oh, I do like a jigsaw puzzle.
  12. OK, so my Googling skill need increasing, and thank for your help, its appreciated, .......but.......the reason for the problem......not how I had wired it up.....new NGK plug, new NGK cap.....and the rubber moisture cover actually preventing the plug from 'snapping' home on the connection. Removed the rubber cover and bingo, a connection and a spark.? Now who would have thought that would have been the issue?? Wasted hours on this......arrrgh.?
  13. Engine casing screws are M7, various lengths. The countersunk heads are not flat on the outer slottted face but domed. M7 is NOT a standard size. You will be very lucky to find anybody with that size in stock. I considered making a set from scratch, turning from blank. I finally bought a set from www.vallmoto.com in Valencia, Spain. Just had a quick look, currently not shown for 349 but there are some listed for 348. I know that they don't alway show what they actually have available. Send them an e mail, but don't forget, they work 'Spanish Time'
  14. Still struggling with this. Which side should the Yellow be attached to? The 'fixed side' Left, or the 'moving side' Right? Wha is the purpose of the insulating washers on either side of the bolt through the points? In the package with the new condenser was this Red wire. Looks like this solders to the 'button' point of the condenser, but what does the terminal connect to? (In the first picture of the coils, the red wire is the extended lead to go up to the condenser that I will mount under the tank)
  15. So, at the point now of trying to get some life out of the Motoplat ignition. Measured the coil - Primary 3 ohms, secondary 13.8 k ohms. No short to earth. Happy with that. The engine is grounded - Multiple points checked from engine to frame and fittings. Condenser is mounted under the tank. Body is grounded. Red wire to points is not grounded. So, in the ign area I have 2 wires to connect. Red (as already mentioned) is to the condenser. Yellow goes to a coil. The black wire on that same coil goes up to the ignition coil. I can attach the red wire and when the points are closed there is continuity, Closed Circuit, and when the points are open there is no continuity - Open Circuit, as you would expect. When I attach the yellow wire, there is continuity when the points are open or closed?? How should the wires be connected to the points, and what is the purpose of the insulating washers on either side of the bolt holding the points spring.....or have I assembled the points incorrectly? Last step before getting it running, and its driving me nuts.
  16. dr nosh

    Montesa 349

    I'm just on the final leg of a 248 restoration. Will be using 90GL5 in the gearbox, Auto transmission in the clutch, have already put Plutoline SAE10 in the forks. Clutch breather mod. Tube routed up into main frame top tube. Gearbox breather is routed into the air filfer box, ign case breather is routed up the front downtube and exits under the tank in the space behind the steering tube/frame bracing. Have used clear tubing so I can see what is going on at any time.
  17. https://www.feked.com/ Best prices on Amal carbs. (Better response service than Burlen as well). Also Surrey Cycles.
  18. Now reaching the final stages of a loooong restoration of a 248. I want to make up a simple wiring loom in order to get a 'no lights' MOT. So this question is not specifically about the 248, but a wiring question in general. So I have: Black going to coil, Green going to horn via a button on the L/H handlebar. Red going to condenser (now mounted up and under the tank). This is the question: I have a button on the R/H handlebar that I want to wire as a kill button. I just cannot get my head around how and what to wire this into? (I know I need to divert the power to the points to earth, but how) Any help gratefully received. Probably quite simple when I see it. Just seem to have a 'mental' blockage at the moment.
  19. When you have the engine in pieces, (oh, you were going to strip the engine and fit new seals all round, especially crankshaft seals weren't you), remove the paint and then respray as individual components - 2 x crankcase halves, magneto cover, clutch cover, head and barrel. https://www.frost.co.uk/high-temp-satin-black-barrel-paint-aerosol/ Trying to touch up all those bare areas will always look *****.
  20. dr nosh

    Cota 248 wheels

    You are in luck. I am currently building a 1981 248 - Red frame, white tank cover over alloy tank. I have dug out the drawing and dimensions that I measured before building my wheels up. Hold fire and I will post them up.
  21. In-Motion. Tried them yet?
  22. Good job done there. What is it with Montesa fork assembly? I had to do similar to my 248. I started off on the brake side and added / removed washers until I got the wheel central and then added / removed washers on the speedo drive side, including the speedo drive which I have kept. As you can imagine, took rather a long time to get this right. Once I was happy, I was able to remove the spindle and measure the pile of washers, and then turn up the spacers for each side.
  23. dr nosh

    Which way around

    That's uncanny. I am also assembling the clutch cable on a 248, but, the clutch lever arm is fouling the gerbox oil filler cap before any clutch action occurs. Its almost as if the slotted brass piece that is pushed by the lever arm to bear on the clutch is too short. Were they made in different lengths? I'm going to re assemble with a lump of Blu-Tak and then measure the amount that squashes down to, when the arm is in a suitable position, and then re-make a new one to suit. Bilko. Could you please post up a picture showing the position of the arm at rest, and then a 2nd picture showing the position of the arm with the clutch handlebar lever 'in', or clutch disengaged. Thanks.
  24. dr nosh

    348 fork yokes

    Well I'm sure that some 'claim' to CNC machine from solid billets. Maybe they are using rolled plate also. I have never looked into it closely to be honest.
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