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dr nosh

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Everything posted by dr nosh
 
 
  1. OK, so my Googling skill need increasing, and thank for your help, its appreciated, .......but.......the reason for the problem......not how I had wired it up.....new NGK plug, new NGK cap.....and the rubber moisture cover actually preventing the plug from 'snapping' home on the connection. Removed the rubber cover and bingo, a connection and a spark.? Now who would have thought that would have been the issue?? Wasted hours on this......arrrgh.?
  2. Engine casing screws are M7, various lengths. The countersunk heads are not flat on the outer slottted face but domed. M7 is NOT a standard size. You will be very lucky to find anybody with that size in stock. I considered making a set from scratch, turning from blank. I finally bought a set from www.vallmoto.com in Valencia, Spain. Just had a quick look, currently not shown for 349 but there are some listed for 348. I know that they don't alway show what they actually have available. Send them an e mail, but don't forget, they work 'Spanish Time'
  3. Still struggling with this. Which side should the Yellow be attached to? The 'fixed side' Left, or the 'moving side' Right? Wha is the purpose of the insulating washers on either side of the bolt through the points? In the package with the new condenser was this Red wire. Looks like this solders to the 'button' point of the condenser, but what does the terminal connect to? (In the first picture of the coils, the red wire is the extended lead to go up to the condenser that I will mount under the tank)
  4. So, at the point now of trying to get some life out of the Motoplat ignition. Measured the coil - Primary 3 ohms, secondary 13.8 k ohms. No short to earth. Happy with that. The engine is grounded - Multiple points checked from engine to frame and fittings. Condenser is mounted under the tank. Body is grounded. Red wire to points is not grounded. So, in the ign area I have 2 wires to connect. Red (as already mentioned) is to the condenser. Yellow goes to a coil. The black wire on that same coil goes up to the ignition coil. I can attach the red wire and when the points are closed there is continuity, Closed Circuit, and when the points are open there is no continuity - Open Circuit, as you would expect. When I attach the yellow wire, there is continuity when the points are open or closed?? How should the wires be connected to the points, and what is the purpose of the insulating washers on either side of the bolt holding the points spring.....or have I assembled the points incorrectly? Last step before getting it running, and its driving me nuts.
  5. dr nosh

    Montesa 349

    I'm just on the final leg of a 248 restoration. Will be using 90GL5 in the gearbox, Auto transmission in the clutch, have already put Plutoline SAE10 in the forks. Clutch breather mod. Tube routed up into main frame top tube. Gearbox breather is routed into the air filfer box, ign case breather is routed up the front downtube and exits under the tank in the space behind the steering tube/frame bracing. Have used clear tubing so I can see what is going on at any time.
  6. https://www.feked.com/ Best prices on Amal carbs. (Better response service than Burlen as well). Also Surrey Cycles.
  7. Now reaching the final stages of a loooong restoration of a 248. I want to make up a simple wiring loom in order to get a 'no lights' MOT. So this question is not specifically about the 248, but a wiring question in general. So I have: Black going to coil, Green going to horn via a button on the L/H handlebar. Red going to condenser (now mounted up and under the tank). This is the question: I have a button on the R/H handlebar that I want to wire as a kill button. I just cannot get my head around how and what to wire this into? (I know I need to divert the power to the points to earth, but how) Any help gratefully received. Probably quite simple when I see it. Just seem to have a 'mental' blockage at the moment.
  8. When you have the engine in pieces, (oh, you were going to strip the engine and fit new seals all round, especially crankshaft seals weren't you), remove the paint and then respray as individual components - 2 x crankcase halves, magneto cover, clutch cover, head and barrel. https://www.frost.co.uk/high-temp-satin-black-barrel-paint-aerosol/ Trying to touch up all those bare areas will always look *****.
  9. dr nosh

    Cota 248 wheels

    You are in luck. I am currently building a 1981 248 - Red frame, white tank cover over alloy tank. I have dug out the drawing and dimensions that I measured before building my wheels up. Hold fire and I will post them up.
  10. In-Motion. Tried them yet?
  11. Good job done there. What is it with Montesa fork assembly? I had to do similar to my 248. I started off on the brake side and added / removed washers until I got the wheel central and then added / removed washers on the speedo drive side, including the speedo drive which I have kept. As you can imagine, took rather a long time to get this right. Once I was happy, I was able to remove the spindle and measure the pile of washers, and then turn up the spacers for each side.
  12. That's uncanny. I am also assembling the clutch cable on a 248, but, the clutch lever arm is fouling the gerbox oil filler cap before any clutch action occurs. Its almost as if the slotted brass piece that is pushed by the lever arm to bear on the clutch is too short. Were they made in different lengths? I'm going to re assemble with a lump of Blu-Tak and then measure the amount that squashes down to, when the arm is in a suitable position, and then re-make a new one to suit. Bilko. Could you please post up a picture showing the position of the arm at rest, and then a 2nd picture showing the position of the arm with the clutch handlebar lever 'in', or clutch disengaged. Thanks.
  13. Well I'm sure that some 'claim' to CNC machine from solid billets. Maybe they are using rolled plate also. I have never looked into it closely to be honest.
  14. Well that's a surprise. Rolled plate. I wonder why ? Picture of my yokes during assembly.
  15. Not sure what you mean by 'de-laminating' The yokes are a one piece casting, machined, anodised. There is nothing there to 'de-laminate' If you mean the look of the yokes is poor, then polish them up/get them re-anodised. (Anodising is a surface modification microns thick, not a coating). I linished my yokes and then vapour blasted. Look like brand new.
  16. Re-assembled the clutch with new plates and fitted the cover, but the arm seems to be too far 'in' and will foul the gearbox filler plug. It seems that the arm should be further out? I marked the position of the foot on the bottom of the shaft and replaced it in the same position and clipped the circlip in place. Can anybody take a photograph of the arm on their machine and post up on here please.
  17. I'm currently restoring a #23 at 2:52. 1981 Cota 248.
  18. Dont think that the overall movement of the arm itself should be a worry. What is important is that it opens the clutch without drag when the handlebar lever is operated. The Venhill cable has a solderless nipple on the engine clutch lever end to help with adjusting out excess cable length. There should be a cable adjuster at the handlebar lever end and at the clutch lever end threading into a hexagon shaped block fixed to the timing side crankcase just behind the kick starter.
  19. Ah. A different question altogether. Still M7, different lengths, most go in from the clutch side, ie crankcase threaded on ign side. However, there are 2 or 3 that go in from the ign side. ie. crankcase threaded on the clutch side. 'O' rings are required under the bolt heads. Do you have any of the crankcase bolts at all? For specific items like these I would still suggest Vallmoto. Unlikely to find these on e bay, unless somebody is breaking an engine.
  20. Alan. M7 x 1. Available at Vallmoto, Valencia.
  21. Like Bigshineybike I shimmed the shafts and the drum. I also made a shim to fit under the hex head of the eccentric adjuster 2166.107 (selector group drawing) and that reduced gearchange shaft 'slop'. Also made a bronze bush in the outer cover where the shaft exits the cover (under seal 0099.1424). So far so good.
  22. I'm currently re-building a 248 and have made a new stub to fit into the gearbox breather location, to take 1/4" clear tube (can see if its blocked), and then run up into the bottom of the airbox (almost directly above). Made the same size stub to fit the magneto cover, and will run the clear tubing up and under the tank. Clutch case breather? Not sure about where this is located.
  23. Making very slow progress with this re-build. Now just getting to the point thinking about electrics. Assembled ign coil. Looks very close to the top of the exhaust. Is this right. Gap is about 10mm. Looks like something is going to melt ! Will just need to power the ign coil, and then a 6v horn, to get a 'day time' MOT. (Horn body is actually to one side of the exhaust, so a bigger gap than it looks). There are 5 coils on the magneto, black, white, green, yellow 2 coils. The wiring diagram shows black, green, yellow joined together (?), with an unmarked wire, presumably white, going to another unmarked part, again presumably the stop light switch. Looks like black coil is for ign coil, green is to one side of the horn, with the other side connected to frame earth via the horn button. So, am I correct in concluding that I only need 2 coils, black and green?
  24. Try these people http://www.motocarb.com/. Helpful when I changed the carb on my Ariel.
  25. That's a nice tidy example. Just restored?
 
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