lemur

Poor mans bleed tool:

From what I've seen on my 2021 and 2023 bike, a rubber band or o-ring might even last longer. imo the springs need to become available individually or it's impractical to own them. That's what I will be telling my dealer and ya'll that own one should consider doing the same.

I think the problem is you don't realize how frequently the motorcycle carburetor needs service and once you start breaking parts inside there you are looking at replacement parts or a new carburetor. No it won't matter if the carb is dry or full when you leave it sit because all of the fuel will evaporate out anyway since the float bowl is vented to the atmosphere. There are no 'extra springs' in a carburetor that can be left out without impacting performance. Running more oil in the fuel then called for will result in additional unburnt oil residue clogging up your exhaust system faster. You can physically test a carburetor float bowl valve operation with only the float bowl removed, raise the float with your finger and watch the fuel flow or stop flowing when you lift the float with your finger, it operates on the same principal as a toilet. Taking obvious safety precautions with fuel spill. Idle adjust screw is always the one that pushes the throttle slide higher, low speed fuel or air adjustment screw will be the one 'not' located directly in the middle of the carburetor slide. The adjustment you will likely need to visit most is not the screws which affect only low rev operation but rather the cir-clip position on the main jet needle which adjusts for lean to rich adjustment through 1/3rd to full throttle operation.

After the first lap of section one in the rain here yesterday, mud trashed one steep run-up to the point that nothing was working for anyone, a bucket or two of crushed stone might have made it ridable again, I was very tempted to do roadwork after everybody completed their first loop 😆 but that just didn't seem right so we just crashed there lots instead.

Results are not up yet but the weekend was a blast 👍 bugs were replaced by rain for the main event making it a total $%^&show in section one but everybody seemed to have great fun and that's what counts. Many thanks to all who supported and attended the event, our next provincial round here is July 20-21

Sounds like you need to let about 12 PSI out of your rear tire. The bike with you on it should provide better traction.then when you are walking in your boots.

Rumor has it the spring is the same kind of spring used in oil seals. Now if we can just find a source for those at a bearing supply store instead of a motorcycle shop 👍

How many are rentals?

Importer justifying what they ordered. Why did you order bikes with steel fork stanchions? ... to keep the front end down 🤣 Because somebody is renting a whole bunch of other brand bikes for people to ride?

If the Canadian Trials Initiative was to drop coin to create a CMA sanctioned club in support of a national race series and provide all the things we would require to host events, sign me up. If it's just another obstacle to scheduling, insuring, marshalling and processing the events well 🤨 darn

I don't generally step up to host a national unless nobody else is doing one. Best luck with your Victoria B.C. event, wish I could afford the travel time and several thousands of $ it would cost me to ride it. Hopefully you will see sufficient attendance to substantiate all of the rider classes, very much unlike the last Saskatchewan national where rider participation was pathetic.

The 4RT valves are easy to adjust once you can get to them, you will need to lower the front of the engine to do it easier. It has screw adjusters and not bucket and shims. The screw adjuster head is square and the same size as a red #2 Robertson head screw so you can improvise a tool to adjust the valves with a short stick of wood and a #2 Robertson screw in the end of it. Exhaust valve clearance is most critical because the cam shaft has a very small automatic decompressor built into it and that will stop functioning once the valve clearance is off.

Can't say I ever had any problem replacing the inexpensive oil filter on a Montesa 4RT that can be purchased at any Honda dealer, not sure what people are finding difficult about that. The most complex service you are ever likely to need to do on every one of them is to adjust the valve clearances after about 3 to 5 years of operation. You will know it needs the valves adjusted when one day it becomes hard to impossible to start.

Sounds like the scene in Worlds Fastest Indian where Burt Monro tried adding lead weight to the front of his motorcycle to improve handling. If you haven't seen the movie, the extra weight theory was a fail.

This years CMA National is Still a best kept secret, although rumour has it an event is slated somewhere on the Vancouver Island in the late fall. Wish I had known this is how it is going to be earlier and I would have booked my July 20&21 as a national, too late now. I'm going to say it right now that I'm hosting a CMA National competition in 2025 and it will be some time after bug season but before school starts so people can actually plan to travel, attend and participate. You want to know what CMA really is to trials riders and to the people that actually make events happen, CMA is just another obstacle. They don't even broker insurance any more, they sell competition licenses. CMA Tips and tricks: Buy your competition license well in advance and save a few bucks. Pre-register for events in time and save a few bucks. If you hold a competition license for 25 consecutive years you qualify to become a life member and your competitor license will be half the price from that time forward and you can save a few bucks. Never send them any more money then you need to. Never ask CMA anything ever, just tell them how it is going to be. That's how to deal with CMA.

Built a short notice spring trial to help feed the black fly population this weekend, details can be found here: https://www.ataont.ca/ata-arden-trial-may-5th-2024-pre-entry-required/ ... and yes it's an Arden trial and they are forecasting rain so it is going to be a very hard event.

The fuel injection on the 4RT is superlative, it's the feature most lacking on the Beta 4T. Whoever told you the 4RT is not good in mud is simply wrong, the 4-stroke excels in the mud or on snow and ice. The Montesa suspension feels far more grounded than the TRS which has an extremely lively suspension. I owned several versions of the 4RT and found the 300cc engine to be superior for pulling 3rd. gear. Two things you need to adapt to when going to the 4T from a high performance 2T: one is you need to calm your throttle movements and avoid blipping the engine, and two you need to learn to carry more revs in advance of needing the power. This is the first year since 1976 that I don't own a Montesa and at times I do miss them. I don't think there is anything I can do on my TRS 300RR's that I can't do on a Montesa 300, although the TRS just seems more fun and exciting to ride overall. Things I miss about the Montesa is cheap and easy fuel consumption and the Montesa was a far better bike to stud the tires and ride in winter. Montesa won't start if the engine is sub-zero, if it gets that cold you need to build a fire under it to thin the oil. In sub-zero the TRS lithium battery electric start is useless so you need to kick start it to play. Beta 4T from my experience was a #$%^ to start all time, particularly after a fall. Montesa wants to keep running even if the bike is upside down which is why it has a tilt switch to shut it down in a crash.

It's a brushed electric motor, if you put more volts through it then the windings are rated for of course it will spin a little faster, right up until it fries. Stepping up the voltage with an additional battery array and then adding a step-down transformer to bring the voltage back down to suit the motor was an expensive and complex way to increase the battery capacity feeding the original motor.

You're not going to get more power out of the same motor, you need to change the motor to one that operates on higher voltage and is capable of drawing the additional watts. Watts is the measure of power and heat, volts is the measure of electron push. Then you need a motor controller that is suited to that motor. Basically the motor horsepower upgrade path on an Oset is to add batteries and replace the 2 most expensive parts, the motor speed controller and the motor. Pavement is about the only place they will be able to use the extra power, everywhere dirt will be wheel spin because the small diameter rear tires are marginal on loose or slippery surfaces.

What does the tag on your motor say? Attached is the tag from a little Oset motor and what it says for power is all it can handle. I'm guessing the motor you have indicates a voltage range and not a fixed voltage? ... & are we seriously talking about souping up a kids electric scooter 🤔 that usually means it is time for a full size motorcycle.

Grew up around electricity and electronics, it's a passion. But in this case this is why I always like to buy my trials bikes in pairs, makes troubleshooting a no brainer 😆

Lots of info there but that fella never returned to say what the problem was.

How old is your spark plug cap? Service manuals indicate a short life for resistor plug caps and recommend a fairly frequent scheduled replacement.

Did you already read "Sherco Ignition Timing Manual Supplement" at least you can see where the timing make is suppose to be. Personally I doubt there is a problem with the timing. Continuity meter test of the ignition timing pickup coil would be in order, the timing pickup initiates the spark which is intensified by the ignition module and the ignition coil. Service manual will show resistance values you should see on the wires connected to the ignition module inputs. The rectifier/regulator should only be needed for the fan motor and possibly lights and that is the only place you should read DC power of roughly 12 volts, everything else will be AC. Based on the photos you have some work to do on the spark plug wire and cap, everything downstream of the ignition module to the plug cap can also be meter tested for continuity.

Assuming the head gasket is leaking into the water jacket, typically that would force coolant out of the cooling system because combustion pressures are so much higher than coolant system pressure, it would be unusual for coolant to be forced or drawn into the combustion chamber during operation and more likely to leak coolant into the combustion chamber when it is not running. Raw coolant might collect in the exhaust system and that will not steam or evaporate until your exhaust temperatures are very high. I think you are looking for signs of coolant disappearing. Anti-freeze has a distinct odour and that should be another tell.