lemur

Have it re-anodized because they didn't do a good enough job the first time. Not just a 4RT problem, it can happen on any alloy rim when quality control lets something slide, such as on the pink rims that were suppose to be anodize red.

Failing to see how that could possibly work, to start with the coating is on the outside surface so this bushing is designed to slide against the lower leg bore and that would make it attached to the stanchion tube. Any reason nobody ever shows the stanchion tube?

So what is the part number and lets see them, the photos you attached are copied from a previous post and don't show the part you report to be struggling with. If your bottom bushing is not on the stanchion tube then it's not a bottom bushing.

What's the part number? Pretty sure that part does not exist, if it had one and you have the fork apart by now it would be obvious, it's not like fork bushings are pressed on the stanchion tube or anything. ... or here's another possibility, somebody one off customized your forks

If the spur gear is made of much harder material file small v or half round groove into the gear first, then clear the holes to size with a drill through the softer material.

Once a spur gear like that spins in a press fit the only sure way is to pin it in one or more places.

Almost positive your ignition components are made by Leonelli and used on several other makes and models of motorcycles, black box with 4 wires would likely be a Bridge Rectifier that converts AC to DC unregulated, the 3 legged IC sounds like a Thyristor which is a rectifier/relay that acts as a voltage regulator. 2 orange wires from stator would likely be your non-regulated AC power outputs, round thing with 2 wire connections is likely the temperature thermostat seeing as it must have one somewhere. Search "Leonelli Thyristor" and "Leonelli Fan Regulator" and see if those parts look recognizable.

Moto Moto Big and chunky

No you're right I never cooked a wet clutch in 60 years. I do have a set of brand new 4RT corks and papers in my toolbox that I never needed.

Keep in mind ATF is considered to be less slippery (has a higher coefficient of friction) compared to industrial machine oil lubricants. What ATF does contain is detergents, friction modifiers, anti-foaming agents and a slew of special chemical additives in ~80% thin machine oil, perfect for a hydraulic torque converter that a 4RT transmission does not have 🤔 If the shifting does get stiff switch to 100% oil. Steel plates should last a lifetime if you never cook the oil in the frictions.

I don't experience clutch drag on cold startup. 4RT won't start at all if the engine oil is below 0C but the transmission will work just fine at ~-7C right up to as hot as you can stand to be riding it. I do know this, if the clutch makes noise it's time to change the oil and if the old oil comes out opaque or milky, you have lots of water in it. Water swells the cork or paper fibre material in clutch plates.

Thankfully nobody is recommending a thin light gear oil in your 4RT transmission 🤔 for any rider. UDT is ISO 46 viscosity same as the HTX biggest difference it is half the cost 🤓 so you can change it twice as often. Replace every 15 hours operation <- that's the factory recommendation how close have you kept to that? ... and if you use power washers on your motorcycle stop doing that.

Kubota UDT or similar farm tractor and excavator hydraulic oil 👍 at about 10 bucks per litre works out to ~5 bucks per oil change. Extensively tested for over 2 decades and 5 Cota' ... your transmission does not require multiple-grade engine oil, it has far more in common with a farm tractor transmission that contains hydraulics, gears and wet brakes and wet clutches. If you think your motorcycles transmission oil is under higher stress then a farm tractor or excavator would experience you would be wrong.

From a site that sells that expensive lubricant: "ELF HTX 740 is a monograde ultra fluid transmission lubricant specially developed for dry clutch gearboxes coupled to 2-stroke engines. " I would try something cheaper that you can change out every time you get water in it, nothing will make your wet clutch act up and make noise as bad as having water in the oil. It's not the steels that are causing a problem it's your cork and/or paper friction plates.

Highly recommend you have it looked at by somebody that understands and can troubleshoot the electrics.

It's also possible to re-lace the wheel with the correct type of rim 🤓 I give that solution about 100% more likely to work.

Add another rim lock right where the tire pops off the rim bead, if the rim actually has a bead. Guessing it is a steel rim with no bead, guessing you are running a tubed type tire on it. In my experience there is only one adhesive to safely use in tire applications and that is Fish glue. The up side of Fish glue is it's non-flammable and water soluble and re usable, the down side of Fish glue for your application is that it's water soluble. Fish glue is a fast drying, cold set, highly flexible adhesive largely used in woodworking.

I'd be testing the bottom end seals.

Yes to it depends on the rules set out by the organizer, the alternative to no-stop is to time limit the section. You're lucky my wife is not checking, she watches the front wheel and if it rotates backwards even a little you just 5'd.

That would be affordable if you are the guy doing the machine work and you have all the equipment already.

The lower fork legs wear oval in the bore after years of use depending on how often the oil was changed, measure the bore in the lower legs for true to round before investing in a weld repair. Very few will have the tech to weld that material efficiently.

It's always half way up the emulsion tube because that is the part most sensitive to the correct fuel level.

I must be the only one in the world that checks a float needle and seat by removing the float bowl and lifting the float with my finger to see if it shuts off the fuel flow at the right height or not at all 🤔

I run 50% premium pump fuel mixed 50% with 100 octane race fuel, oil is 1% amsoil sabre. Makes the bikes run good and very little smoke or exhaust residue. Ideal float level is when the fuel level is half way up the emulsion tube, because that's when the emulsion tube can function best, if fuel pours out the float bowl vent the seal on the float needle and seat must be failing to regulate the fuel height. ... or a vent pipe is incorrectly routed, that could do it.

An extra expensive 1.2 pound third party tube/rim lock designed for tubeless tires is randomly installed on a single TRS production bike tube type front wheel 🤔 no, TRS is not that tiny. Now if the rims were to be anodized Pink instead of Red because the manufacturer ran out of anodize materials, TRS is a small enough company to let that slide, but that process doesn't cost extra money and require extra holes drilled to stuff a second rubber inner tube into the front tire.