lemur

Tried one of the slab back protectors and don't like it, replaced it with a Troy Lee Designs back and chest vest which is way better 👍 Thinking about purchasing a second Troy Lee vest in a different model to wear over the first one so they cover any missing areas. Nothing is cheap to buy any more. ... model is a UPV something

Ignition timing is usually slightly advance to TDC typically 10 to 20 degrees before and the black box is what alters the spark advance more if the engine even has that feature, it might not. I found a parts manual online for that bike no problem no luck with a service manual. Faulty bottom end seals destroy the engines intake vacuum more then anything else (symptoms would be poor compression test, hard starting and not a crisp pop pop pop sound on the engine). Your CDI trigger coil should show some resistance, more resistance than the primary ignition coils typically have. The clearance distance between the stator coils and the flywheel magnets should be as small as possible for the best spark intensity. One of those coils is likely for ignition and the other is for lights or horn. Only way I know of to test the black box 100% is to have a second working bike and swap parts to troubleshoot.

I think you are stuck with raising the peg profile or lowering the lever profile aka bending it. The levers do bend before braking, I have a badly bent one on one of my TRS now.

🤔 By repackaging something simple and selling it like something special ? Yep, shop at your local farm supply where people buy oil by the pail and get the same stuff or better at a fraction of the cost, then you can retire the rich guy that lives in his own trials area 👍

Found 08C35-HTX-740 in stock and available from Acura dealers 👍 it's only $144.60 CDN 🤣 that's a lot for happy.

I can order ELF HTX 740 as a Honda original part or special order it from somewhere that won't ship it here anyway and would cost me about 70$ per litre 🤔 do you think SJ grade oil is worth 70$ per litre? You don't pay that for oil bottled in France on your side of the ocean but you still pay exorbitant prices for simple oil that only needs to last several hours before being replaced. Sorry but I pay 10$ per litre for oil that works just fine because it gets changed frequently which is why I don't have clutch problems.

It's only 6 times the cost of what I've used for 20 years. I recommend frequent fresh oil changes with oil that states it is good for wet clutch applications.

What Elf oil are you recommending for his wet clutch application? " ELF HTX 740 is a monograde ultra-fluid transmission lubricant specially developed for dry clutch gearboxes coupled to 2-stroke engines." " ELF HTX 740 must not be used in an immersed clutch."

4RT has separate transmission oil from the engine oil which is great because you can put engine oil in your engine and transmission oil in the transmission and wet clutch👍 change the oil type and replace it frequently to keep water out of the oil because water makes the clutch plates swell. Occasionally remove and resurface the friction plates to inspect, dry out and remove high spots or irregularities in the friction plate material. Dump the old oil into a clear glass container to inspect for water or particulates. Inexpensive ISO 46 hydraulic excavator transmission oil purchased in quantity is what I use and replace frequently, because at half the cost of specialty motorcycle transmission oils it gets done twice as often and imo works way better. You should experience very little clutch drag even in sub zero weather using ISO 46 Another possible suspect is air bubbles or water in the clutch hydraulics.

Both air and water are necessary for iron to rust. Remove the O2 (Oxygen) and the H2O (Water) and you have no Iron oxidation. ... and for those who did not pay attention in high school, now you know how to prevent rust from happening 🤓

You can call it freeze, you can call it stuck, you could even call it bunged up but the truth is it's the result of rust and we all know how to make things rust fast.

I found that I could make bushings fit better compared to stock replacements and they lasted longer, ymmv. but I also rebuilt microtomes for ~40 years. It's the front end of the TY250A plus the foot-pegs, steel bars, hand controls and stock tires that need the most upgrading ... the stock TY kickstart lever was terrible and with some work can be replaced with something far superior off a period street bike. Wheel bearings are one of the highest service and replacement items on any trials bike, with 2 TRS on the go I buy SKF bearings 10 at a time. If your brake and clutch cables are old it's well worth replacing them for the performance gains at the lever.

Considering you haven't even specified the model or year 😕 might be far more productive if you post a photo of what you have. ... or refer to the parts diagrams and service manuals available online.

Stock bushings are plastic, I always replaced the stock TY plastics with sintered bronze but that's because I own a lathe. Keep in mind with the bushings made from sintered bronze or self lubricating plastics and properly fitted, the job of the grease filling the tube is primarily to preclude water from entering and creating rust on the steel parts.

It's true, capacitors can degrade over time and alter the components performance. Only way I was ever able to 100% trouble-shoot a CDI module was to have a second machine and start swapping parts until the problems appeared on the other machine.

That's how it works with any engine that has an ignition pickup coil, yes. ... did you gap the spark plug?

Anybody that does not do observed trial event checking personally and or organize club events where you are the guy taking care of, positioning, training of the checkers etc. y'all should stay out of it! Only the Diva riders tend to be demanding, protest calls or criticize the actions or placement of the volunteer checkers. Reason being the Diva riders are not the people hosting and needing to convince checkers to voluntarily donate a free day or two of work to observe at the same section all day, just so the Diva' can have consistent checking. Resist the urge to become a Diva rider.

Did you hold the damper rod end from turning when you hit it with the impact driver or did you let the damper part spin 🤔

Section cut out of a spent CO2 canister is the right size, add a length of threaded rod and some nuts, big socket and you have a bearing remove plus install tool that you don't need to pound with a hammer.

Have it re-anodized because they didn't do a good enough job the first time. Not just a 4RT problem, it can happen on any alloy rim when quality control lets something slide, such as on the pink rims that were suppose to be anodize red.

Failing to see how that could possibly work, to start with the coating is on the outside surface so this bushing is designed to slide against the lower leg bore and that would make it attached to the stanchion tube. Any reason nobody ever shows the stanchion tube?

So what is the part number and lets see them, the photos you attached are copied from a previous post and don't show the part you report to be struggling with. If your bottom bushing is not on the stanchion tube then it's not a bottom bushing.

What's the part number? Pretty sure that part does not exist, if it had one and you have the fork apart by now it would be obvious, it's not like fork bushings are pressed on the stanchion tube or anything. ... or here's another possibility, somebody one off customized your forks

If the spur gear is made of much harder material file small v or half round groove into the gear first, then clear the holes to size with a drill through the softer material.

Once a spur gear like that spins in a press fit the only sure way is to pin it in one or more places.