lemur

Local hardware store, it's a chainsaw sparkplug. Cheap and easy to source.

Must be why they make 27.5mm hex socket wrenches 🤔

The drain in the bottom of the air box is not the greatest design if you ride deep mud lots they tend to fail.

The thing you don't want is friction modifiers, only use oil or if you must ATF that is designed to work on wet clutch applications suited to the plates you are running be that cork, paper or carbon fibre. The transmission is non filtered so the best oil is the one you are likely to change most often.

Cog it up one or two gears, use the clutch more and fully extend your arms 👍 1st. gear is geared so low there will always be tons of engine braking.

Sounds like you are riding in first gear, 300RR will pull 3rd. Montesa has a slightly more settled suspension compared to the Beta, not as lively suspension but the engine performance should never be lacking.

Tax on trials bike sales sounds like a good way to make hundreds and hundreds of dollars lol

Apparently China doesn't have the engineering or they would not be buying it.

They should start building electric motorcycles in some economically depressed first world country where the domestic currency is only worth 69 cents on the US$

Correct answer is Papa if you can possibly swing it buy a 4RT, it's a current production model bike and infinitely superior bike to own, ride and maintain.

TL lol you should have made it a poll

Looks like a lighter duty bearing compared to what my trials bikes use. In my experience if bearings fly to pieces on removal that is usually because they were left too long before being replaced.

Just a guess that MOT inspection guy will not be able to check the chain guard is secure if it does not have a chain guard.

It's called homologation and if it hasn't come to your country yet it surely will. Third world countries might never adopt it, by our laws you bought a pit bike, perfect for use on private property use or closed course competition where it exists.

Guessing you don't have access to electrical test equipment. If testing involves shipping in both directions or they just say it is faulty on receipt, it is generally best to just buy a new part. If your bike has no black box to control the ignition that means the coil and associated electrics will be even easier to meter test. Best luck with your repair 👍

Today 😎

And you would be correct, you are looking at the coil pickup or signal generator to control spark, that pickup generates a small charge of electricity when the magnets pass by it, that electric charge goes to your ignition control module where it will be used to send a whole bunch more electricity towards the ignition coil and spark plug. Coils have measurable resistance unless they are burned or shorted, then they will show the wrong resistance or no resistance at all aka no continuity. You can meter test the coils, meter test the connections and wires, you can meter test the power outputs once you have it somewhat running, but that part #4 the ignition control module is going to be by far you biggest problem to test or replace.

Lots of rectifiers or regulators would work, those are about the least 'special' parts in the whole electric system, everything else is more difficult to substitute and unique to fit the model.

Do you have a VOM (volt ohm meter) if you do then test for resistance (ohms) between the yellow wire coming out of the alternator and ground. Have you removed the flywheel yet? ... a photo of what is inside there would be helpful, we are looking for breaker points or a magnetic pickup to control when the spark happens.

This part does not comply with the wiring diagram, could be we are looking at a combined regulator rectifier part.

Everything you have there can be electrically tested easy except the ignition control module (part #4) you need a second running motorcycle of same model to test that part 100% certain. Make western union splice joints in your wire connections not pig tails, they work better.

Part #10 is your alternator, the diagram indicates it is single phase. That means there is a single coil inside the alternator and that coil will have some measurable resistance between the yellow output wire and ground. Output from that coil during operation will be alternating current AC well in excess of the 12 volts (or whatever) DC volts that your fan requires. The job of the regulator (part 18) is to limit the voltage from your alternator and regulators produce heat in that process, so regulator will be located somewhere appropriate to heat dissipation and cooling. The job of the rectifier is to convert some power from the regulators ~12 volt AC output to 12 VDC which is appropriate to your thermostat switch and fan motor. Incandescent lamps are happy to run on AC so that is why your fan is the only thing running off the rectifier. ... none of which has much to do with your spark ignition, that would be controlled by parts 10, 4, 11 &12. Alternator, Ignition control module, ignition coil and spark plug.

When my friend that rides Beta uses my fuel he notices it runs way better. Might have something to do with 98 octane and 1% oil that I run in my TRS bikes instead of his high test pump gas mixed at 80:1

They make that, it's called a Keihin 30mm PWK carburetor.