lemur

👍 Make some noise is what we usually say, third gear really rocks. If it was a Montesa you'd want to twist it even harder. ...? do you brake and clutch with only the index finger and do you have your levers fairly level of tilted way down. Keeping the levers closer to level helps.

Sad thing is every Montesa comes with a nice big service manual, so the previous owner didn't give you everything for your bike. Like jonny says the parts and manuals are for the most part interchangeable, I had 3 different model year 4RT' at the same time and swapped parts between them to trouble-shoot with no issues. Throttle body, fuel tank, ignition components all interchange with no issues. 2012 model, the first problem you encounter will be valve clearance adjustments when it becomes hard or impossible to start. Everything else on the 4RT is near indestructible and trouble free.

I bet you're riding down a gear, with a 300cc engine 👍 cog it up one notch, they love 3rd. gear and you won't need to grab near as much throttle.

This home built tool will work great for removing and reinstalling wheel bearings, unless somebody failed to install the middle spindle as suggested above. 1/2" Threaded rod, any large 3/4" drive socket that is larger than the bearing outside diameter, 2 nuts & the sleeve part is cut out of a spent CO2 canister like they use in paint ball or pellet guns. Use the same tool to insert the new bearings without the sleeve and replacing it with an old bearing or large flat washer in place of the steel sleeve, no hammer and no heat is required for insert or removal because you can pull the bearing straight in or out. If the middle spindle was left out that is going to make disassembly difficult and if it was torqued down, you may have already damaged your new bearings.

Try Jitsie - they are great when it comes to common needed trials bike parts.

AJP brakes are common and used on lots of models, they don't need to be copied from Sherco because AJP makes them. The gas cap on the other hand might be very unique, that's not the kind of part Xispa would copy. Photos and dimensions of what you have might help somebody to recognize it.

Event was a great success 👍 heavy rain just hours before the start turned topsoil into a slippery slimy mess which roughly doubled the scores, but results were well balanced across all rider classes and near predictable which means I must have done a good job setting up the sections 😎 thank-you to all riders and support workers that made it a great trial. results can be found here: https://www.ataont.ca/ata-arden-trial-provisional-results-july-16th-2023/

Typewriter wite-out works good to highlight a timing mark, the white shows bright under the timing light. I may have been looking at the service manual for a newer TY, but there still should be marks from the factory. Early TY's had extra weights bolted to the flywheel to increase inertial torque, I rode them both with the weights installed and without, the difference being the engine spools up a little faster if the weights are removed (personally I preferred the performance with the extra weights removed)

Chapter 2 page 10 & 11 in the service manual describes the timing process, the case and the flywheel already have alignment marks on them just to the right of the 12 o'clock position. Timing with a strobe is performed when the engine is operating at 2500 rpm.

Glass weave holds water, water promotes rust if the header isn't alloy and contain iron. When glass wrap gets wet and hot that makes steam and steam can still burn you, Header temperature on a 2-stroke in far less then a 4-stroke, you'd be burning all of your riding pants if it was a 4-stroke. A heat shield that stands off the header pipe works far better at reducing heat transfer. Jitsie sells carbon fibre heat shields and they work great. If you do wrap it start your wrap at the rear and wrap forward towards the cylinder head, that way the layers will over-lap like fish or snake scales and the wrap material will catch less dirt spray off the front wheel.

75N/mm - rider weight 80 to 90kg 80N/mm - rider weight 90 to 100kg 85N/mm - rider weight +100kg du site Web de jitsie

Normal long day ride for me is near 2 tanks full, tank is roughly 2 litres. Montesa/Honda engine is fuel injected so I don't let the fuel tank go empty, fuel is the only thing that cools the fuel pump.

TRS 300RR is my other ride, fuel consumption is considerable, manual calls for 98 octane fuel + 1% 2-stroke oil, x-trac version is the same bike with a bigger tank. Great bike for competition; extremely spirited handling, tons of power down low in the revs and launches strong in 3rd and even 4th from a dead stop, being a 2-stroke it reaches max rpm rapidly.

curious, what do you do with a Wombat, sell it to zoo's ?

I bet if you went over there and introduced yourself, somebody would let you try their Montesa or maybe anything else! The clubs and social aspects of riding trials bikes are well worth the effort. Following better riders is what will make you a better rider.

You would need to change oil in a 4RT that frequently if you were Toni Bou and somebody else was paying for everything, otherwise; 4RT would be an excellent choice for you and will not require any more maintenance then any other trials bike. Oil capacity is only half a litre of engine oil plus half a litre of transmission oil separate, the oil filter is commonly available and inexpensive. Montesa is a sturdy built machine with very few shortcomings, they handle very subtle and grounded compared to many 2-stroke competitive machines, they have an incredibly wide power band that is very old guy friendly (I have 7 years on you) Montesa being 4-stoke consumes less fuel, doesn't require pre-mix and is happy to perform on lower octane fuel. Trials bikes are quiet enough to sneak up on wildlife, we do that every day and see lots of Deer, Bobcats, Moose and everything else on a regular basis. You can get an extra fuel tank that mounts behind your number plate if you need greater range. Trials bikes were more expensive then Enduro bikes and Trials bike parts more expensive, but based on riders here the Enduro bikes drop a lot more money over the course of a season because they crash and break far more frequently. Modern bikes are far lighter then twin-shock vintage models and won't bruise your legs near as bad when they do fall on you, once you are accustom to riding the modern rides are far easier to survive on and well worth the extra investment. Any version of the 4RT is Highly recommended for your planned use 👍

6 out of 9 planned sections are already set out, the rest will be ready by the end or the weekend, it's going to be serious hard if it rains but sections are wide so there are alternatives, if it's dry it will just be a regular Arden lol. Loop is very short and close to the pits, the rest of the land is for practice and play. I'm looking at 4 loops for all classes except Novice requiring only 3 loops. Now for the most important announcement: Bring bug spray 🪰 it seems to work

Service manual calls for 580 ml ATF type which is way lower viscosity then 75W gear oil. <- might want to check that. I would expect to see some clutch drag in any motorcycle if the viscosity is very high (75W) and oil level is above normal. ATF is way closer to the ISO46 hydraulic oil that I run with viscosity ratings closer to 20W relative to engine oil. If only one gear range drags I would be looking for a problem on the gear itself or the shift mechanism associated with it rather than the clutch which will affect all of the gear ranges. 2022 model certainly should not be experiencing gear problems if it was assembled correctly at the factory. The motivation for using DOT fluid in brakes is in the event you have a brake system leakage then you will be spilling ethyl glycol on your brakes instead of oil. If your clutch hydraulics leak they leak outside or into your transmission oil so it is far more logical to use oil in a clutch hydraulics. The hydraulic fluid needs to be compatible with what you use for hardware, but for the mot part DOT brake fluid is more problematic when it comes to corrosion and water absorption. (most DOT fluid is hygroscopic in nature, it absorbs water from the atmosphere, water is not a problem with the thin mineral oil used in a clutch hydraulics.

fwiw 4RT came with 2 different length kickstart levers over the years, the one pictured above is the longer one that comes on a 300RR I found the long actually don't jam up as badly or wear out your right boot like the shorter one does. Little easier to kick.

Are you looking for OEM parts? The kickstart lever can be replaced with one from a different motorcycle model and it's usually a significant upgrade, the originals are not very good, same with bars, aftermarket aluminum bars are a significant upgrade. Crankcase cover you need to state the model year, they changed them once.

Still time to enter 😎 – PRE-ENTRY REQUIRED flier and form here: https://www.ataont.ca/ata-arden-trial-july-16th-2023-pre-entry-required/

I am in eastern Ontario! several of the area riders have indoor riding barns or sheds organized for next season, I built my retirement home in the middle of my riding area, so open the door on the heated garage and I'm already at the best riding spot in the country 😎 I keep about 12km of hard enduro type trail open, same trails I rode today actually. @apriljo do I already know you? are you April as in April that rides a brand new GasGas

The whole point is you don't need or want additives. An excavator is something that can pick up a Tesla and throw it about 30 feet, if you tried to run special motorcycle transmission oil in one you'd go broke real fast and I guarantee it wouldn't run any better. There is enough pressure on the oil to boil water, nothing comes close to thst duty inside a motorcycle engine. I've run it in trials competition for decades with zero clutch issues, 2-stroke or 4RT. ? "Elf oil they regard so highly is made for a dry clutch" where are you going to put the oil in a dry clutch lol that's not going to work so good.

What model forks? You have options, Jitsie sells aluminum stanchions for my bikes and they are highly recommended. The chrome won't be chrome unless it is over a copper layer that is over a layer of zinc or nickel, if you put chrome directly onto steel the steel becomes a sacrificial metal. Single layer of electroplate on steel will be mostly zinc.

I've used Kubota, New Holland (Ambra) Johne Deere and Hyundai branded oils and found them all to work almost equally well, Yes to hydraulic oils using a different spec then multi-grade engine oils. ISO spec on what I'm running now is ISO 46 Excavators and farm tractors have everything inside them that you will ever find in a motorcycle transmission but typically operate way longer hours in far more extreme conditions. I owned an excavator that carried 45 gallons of hydraulic oil and it even had a water separator on the hydraulic oil. A motorcycle transmission doesn't need multi-grade engine oil that contains detergents or friction modifiers which are counter-productive to the machines operation, you don't want oil that turns to bubbles and you don't want water, fuel or friction modifiers in contact with your rubberized cork clutch plates, hence hydraulic oil changed frequently is perfect for the job. ... the concept of synthetic oil is that it theoretically lasts longer and requires fewer changes, but the best scenario for your motorcycles clutch and transmission oil is to replace the oil frequently.