Beardy

Have you tried Cambridge trials centre?

I have the same problem. The case is off being welded. Is the shaft easy to get out? Clutch needs to come off it looks like, but how is the shaft held in?

Thanks - just realised that as the cover is off (for welding), and I’m learning what everything is. Kick start shaft has a fair bit of play, not sure what needs replacing yet?? I guess there will be a list if jobs to get done while the cover is off?! Hopefully it doesn’t cost me a fortune in parts needed 🤞🏻

Primary drive gear- 75nm?? Ive been through that so many times and missed it - really must try and print it off. Or get stronger glasses 🤓

Traditional nut and washer. I’m used to road bikes so same set up. i used be really good at over tightening nuts and bolts from my early 2 stroke days - fear of everything rattling lose. No chance of that, I couldn’t even undo stuff next time around!!

Hi all Anyone know the torq setting for the front sprocket nut? I have online ty350 manual which covers most of what i need for my 250, but no reference to the front sprocket at all?! It does have a table of torq settings based on nut size, but it only goes up to 20mm and that’s 130Nm!! thanks

So oil out, dirty red so atf i guess? looks like the crack has been JB welded, i will probably do the same for a short term fix. If it doesn’t work it’s replace or weld- both ££££! Didn’t realise the cover was magnesium, finding someone to fix that could be like trying to find rocking horse poop! Brake pedal had sheered so should be able to weld that, small win there. I’ve bent the frame a little at the back, mudguard now sits central - but the does look a bit lop sided by design? As for the rest, well lets see if i can get riding it and if it goes where i point it, it’s a start. I can compare it to another mono if i see one 🤞🏻

Thanks Turbo Oils on order - went with original spec, see how it goes. Atf is my plan “b”, but your advise is onboard 👍🏻 Thoroughly going over the bike and a few issues so far. Front sprocket nut lose, no locking tab?! Rear brake lever seemed to be held on with paint. Bolt or screw missing? Possible weld job. Looking up how it is supposed to be fixed. The frame looks a bit off set - sure it had a few knocks over the years. I will try and post a picture for reference. And the big one (gulp), right side cover cracked/repaired/leaking a little. i think this may turn out to be quite the project! 😳

Thanks - looks like i on the right lines then 👍🏻 i think that’s the online manual i have? No printer though and £73 is crazy for a printed copy! (Trail & Trial)

Thanks - good tips already 👍🏻 Is the atf just a good alternative to 10w30 it says to use? Or just better for old bike? I was planning on full fluid flush and renew anyway but good to know that’s normal for the clutch to stick. i found an online manual for the ty350 but it would be dead handy to have a book in the workshop- I’ll give steve a try👍🏻 The old boy i got it off said to run it 40:1 not synthetic - sound ok? What’s the general opinion on mix?

Hi all. Well finally got a trials bike - better late than never. ‘86 ty250 that’s a bit old and tatty (like it’s owner). Guess i’ll be here a fair bit ad i can’t find a useful workshop manual. Sorting the clutch is the first issue as it’s not good. Lever pulls but the bike barely rolls. I put in 5th a gently rocked it to free it up as it seemed stuck - it did the old leap forward when i put it in gear, clutch lever pulled in! Help always Appreciated. Thanks. Beardy.