lowside

Thanks mate. I think they have been discontinued as I can't find them anywhere, even manufacturers site. If thats true, I'm sure it's because someone devised a simpler workaround, but I'm at a loss as only just getting into this sport. Maybe the fast throttle is a good thing if it's limitable. I'll have a ponder.

I'm always wary of following published torque settings on older bikes. The torque settings the manufacturers publish assume brand new hardware of the OEM spec. I tend to be a little cautious. Get it on tight, but use a drop of carefully applied blue loctite. Blue, not red! Only snag with blue loctite is, you can't test it for torque a week later unless you're willing to reapply the loctite again, but it's easy to remove and reapply. I use it on everything after a lifetime of big v-twins, which are constantly attempting to self destruct.

When the stop is removed, does these revert to fast action, or slow? The white tube suggests they are fast action, so I'm not sure about fitting one. As a beginner I'd benefit and so would my lad, as we've had incidents of whisky throttle and whilst I'm OK, it knocked his confidence a bit. Can't find any info outside of what you posted and another store in Europe. I thought maybe it would say on the box or something. Cheers

Im not averse to saving a few quid. Not sure whats available locally though or at what sort of price. Things here are generally very expensive across the board.

Putoline (anything) is expensive stuff, but running costs for trials aren't really too bad overall. Nano Trans is even more expensive, roughly double the cost of GP10! Some of it is marketing, thats for sure, but there are differences in products that aren't immediately obvious, so when you venture outside manufacturer specs, it's at your own expense. I don't know enough to be particularly bold.

Haven't ridden it since my last post as we've been away a lot so nothing will have changed. I'll be riding it soon and you guys have given me some info to go on. I need to make more detailed records of what happens and when. I'll post back. Thanks

The clutch lever is properly adjusted, first thing I checked. I will do some further testing. Dealers said GP10 is too thick for the Sherco and can cause the diaphragm to swell? Problem is, as it was a used bike, I've no idea what was used previously. Thats the next thing I'll look at if I cant solve this with just gearbox oil. The swarf wasn't anything that made me cringe, I just dont think the oil had been dropped for a while and the engine probably hasn't seen that much use. When I come to change it again, if theres still a bit of swarf, I think it would be worth digging into deeper. It's fines, not chunks. Does anyone have a late model Sherco 250, what do you run in yours?

Because I'm a plonker and forgot to take my calipers to the shop today, does anyone know the bar diameter at the clamp for the Beta 80 Jr (2023)? Had a good google and cant find anything conclusive. Want to change out the stock bars for some risers. Ta

I've used diesel on my road bike chains, but they are covered in all manner of horrible gunk. For trials or MTB, if I was stripping it right back, I'd use something like MucOff. it's way harsher than many people realise and really does take everything with it as it drips off. Easier to deal with than diesel on disposal. I've got a 3 sided brush from Halfords for the trials bike which seemed to do a half decent job, but it didn't come out as clean as my MTB chains do with the plastic Park Tool enclosure (pic below - too small for motorbikes). I used a ton of rags on the trials bike in comparison to when I do the MTB. Then again, it's a bigger chain isn't it. Lube is my biggest issue always, because it goes everywhere and rarely in the places you want it to and unless the chain is off, access is difficult. Ideally I'd want to bathe my chains in lube rather than spray it on. Anyone know any products like that, where you can shallow bath a chain, like I guess the OEM's do? The above is for MTB and just an example.

I hope I'm still doing this at 75, more power to you. Enjoy!

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'm a beginner so not much help on things, but my instructor told me to practice balance and turning as much as possible, with the emphasis on proper technique. It's very tempting just to blast around on the bike, but now I can clear some obstacles reliably, I've started to feel more like a trials rider. My son and I got some cheap flags, so we mark out our own simply courses. Maybe a small hill with some rocks on it and do laps of that, in one direction, then the other. Stuff like that. Trials is much more of a challenge if you use flags vs just riding about, especially if someone else sets them for you.

Thanks feetupfun, I'll give that a bash then, see if I can find neutral when its moving as I haven't tried that approach.

Hi cascao, Yes it seems to drag most of the time. I've been out today and had a couple of problems, but as I don't really ride in 1st, I'm not sure how much effort to put into fixing it, but it can't be good for clutch temps or wear. Neutral can't be found when the engine is running usually. Only with the engine off and even then, I typically have to use my hand. Again, not a major issue, just would like to sort it if I can. Thanks for note about master cylinder, I will check when I wash it. Thank you

Hi all, I'm gradually working my way through maintenance items on my "new to me" bike. I've noticed that in 1st gear there is sufficient clutch drag to pull the bike forwards unless I am sitting on it. No noticeable drag in 2nd gear. Also, it is almost impossible to find neutral if the bike is running, although it can be done by hand, with limited success. I believe it is a diaphragm type clutch. It has recently had new levers (for cosmetic reasons), but I've checked the play in those and the master cylinder is operating with a full cycle. Just to be sure, I misadjusted the lever to remove play entirely and the result was the same, so I think the actuator rod is fully engaging and disengaging the piston in the master cylinder. I've dropped the oil, which was somewhat dirty but not horrific. There was a tiny bit of swarf on the drain plug magnet. It's had 650cc of fresh 75W (GP10) put in, bringing it up to full as far as I can tell (I think its ~700cc total capacity). I am wondering if the clutch needs a little more fluid in the line? I've noticed the brake lever engages very early in the stroke, which suggests to me, assuming I've adjusted the lever correctly, that it has potentially too much fluid. Worth checking both in case they have been filled incorrectly? It's all DOT4 if that makes a difference to anything. I am not experienced with motorbike mechanics, so I was hoping someone may be able to point me in the direction of things I should check for the clutch drag issue? If necessary, I'm willing to put in a new clutch kit, but obviously want to rule out simple stuff first as taking the clutch apart, for me, would be a challenge. Thanks

Will do, thank you. Mine's a Sherco, although I have been reading those threads about the clutch drag on Beta's too. I think its a different type of clutch on mine, diaphragm type.