Well the 199B was running great then the woodruff key which I had thought was in all the way had been pushed out the other side and eventually found its way to the ignition coils on my brand new electronic ignition! crying alligator tears at the thought of buying another one, is it possible to replace those coils? or repair them?

Without even getting to see it,

if the damage is limited to the copper then it is serviceable, if it went deeper that's not so good.  

It depends on which electronic ignition it is. Some suppliers will sell you just the stator coil.

Yes, coils can be rewound but it might be cheaper and less trouble to buy a replacement stator coil if you can.

 

Thanks for the reply I will contact the company 

slowrider -

Sorry to hear about your problem.

Did the errant woodruff key cause any damage to keyway or the flywheel / shaft tapers ?

Just a few scratches, but I will start with a new key and silicone it in before assembly 

Getting a little confused, the only damaged coil is the one for the lights, the ignition coil seems OK, are they linked somehow? this is the kit from InMotion BTW. can I cut the wire between them? not sure why it gets no spark if the coil is undamaged? Unfortunately the kit has not schematic, nor does it say how many watts it puts out. Want to hook up a small led light eventually. It also says nothing about need a regulator or rectifier, just go to a distribution panel 

Is this what you are dealing with?   Resistance test the coil windings and you should see something in the realm of a couple of ohms per coil.  

The black box will be a rectifier and the steel cased one that says it must be earthed will be the regulator because voltage regulation produces heat and no way do you want to run light emitting diodes unless you like lights that flicker.  LED lamps have no latency so at the very least you would need to add a capacitor to smooth the current flow.   Guessing this is a 6 volt system.  Super easy to run LED lights off a battery that you recharge from a wall outlet or dead loss disposables like a regular flashlight.

No wiring diagram really sucks, sure looks like the lighting coil has just been wired to the ignition coil, that would make it a 2 phase alternator and the output would be easy to check using an oscilloscope.

 

 

Lemur, many thanks for the info

That's what I have, the lighting coil is what was damaged, was thinking I could isolate it but from what you say that's probably not possible. Just got word from InMotion that it can be refurbished which is probably the route to take as they are very expensive. Thought about going with another system, but this one was working fine before my woodruff key failed. Quick question: do I even need to use the key with this system? Would still like to run a light off this since I bought the lighting coil version, any idea of how to wire it up? It has a wire for light power, and assume just going to the light and then ground, if it is regulated.

Ignition key no, you can just put a magnet tether kill switch on it.

Meter test or even better an oscilloscope will show you what the output is and how regulated it is, what lamp you use will be dependent on that test.  LED uses low voltage but are not tolerant to over-voltage so your power needs to be regulated to suit the LED lamps.  You would need to add a capacitor to prevent them from flickering because your power output is going to have a relatively low frequency and no battery to smooth the power.  

I meant woodruff key, sorry I was not clear, InMotion says they can refurbish the ignition, which should do the trick i hope.

3 hours ago, slowrider said:

I meant woodruff key...

That's a negative, the key is in there to position the flywheel correctly, without it your ignition timing would be all over the place. 

For what it's worth the last time I had a 2-stroke coil rewound it cost about 125$cdn.