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About lorenzo

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    (6X) Bultacos 73-81

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  • Location
    East Anglia UK
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  1. Mikey - I was about to explain that the brake light and rear light bulbs seem to be sharing a common earth/ground connection...........now we know why ! I'm happy you have it sorted and glad to be of help. That's a nice looking bike, by the way. I'm presently trying to sort my own Mod. 85 (also a '74), and if it turns out half as well as yours I'd be quite satisfied. Happy trail riding, Lorenzo
  2. Mikey - The "correct" wiring diagram I referred to was the one posted by rcgods. The schematic I posted was merely to show how the brake light works - one switch/two switch, the principle's the same. .The earth/"ground" side of the igntion coil (the green wire from the magneto) must go through the brake switch (brake off/not applied) or through the bulb and resistor (brake on), thence to earth. You appear to have bypassed this requirement by earthing the green wire at the terminal block - Brn. wire to "frame grd"., meaning the switch circuit is not working. Try removing the brown wire............ Lorenzo.
  3. Mikey - The wiring diagram is correct for a standard mod. 85 with direct (AC) lighting. I have an original owners handbook; this uses the same diagram exactly. Your bike appears to have an original-style rear lamp; what bulbs are you using ?
  4. Mikey - This topic cropped up a few days ago - Thumbs up! 's topic Oct. 25 - he posted a schematic/scan from Clymer manual explaining how the stop lamp works : Remember, the stop lamp is fed via the earth/"ground" side of the LT igntion coil in the magneto (the green wire). You will see that the stop lamp switch needs to have normally-closed contacts, i.e. contact is made when the rear brake is NOT applied. Is this the way your new switch operates ? I'm unclear about the fine detail of the rear lamp itself, as it was missing from my own Model 85, but the separate bulbs originally specified were a festoon type 6v. 4.5W for the rear lamp and a 12v. 18W bayonet type for the stop lamp......... Hope this helps..
  5. Hi, Thumbs Up - I have no direct experience of model 138 and am making a few assumptions here,,,,,,my own Alpina is an earlier model. Looks to me like an OE switch, though. If it's direct (AC) lighting - no battery and no rectification - it should be wired similar to this :- Hope this helps.
  6. Hi , Thumbs Up - If your Alpina is wired as per original direct lighting , the stop lamp circuit is via the "earth/ground " side of the ignition feed coil in the magneto. Quote from an earlier posting on the subject:- . The switch is of an unusal design and exact replacments can not be found. The original switch is held in a normaly closed condition by a tag on the brake pedal and switches to normaly open when the pedal is depressed. Ignore the previous response - you do have the correct switch.
  7. Mag. outer cover cannot loosen the flywheel nut - the cover is marked as a result of the nut having loosened when the key sheared. (Crank rotation suggests that the nut would actually be tightened, not loosened). The reason the key sheared is the the poor condition of the shaft taper - it's this and its fit within the flywheel boss that determines the security of the flywheel - the key is there in the main to locate the flywheel/points cam in the correct place. You need to address the issue of the damaged taper(s).
  8. It needs a k/start return spring https://www.inmotiontrials.com/product/bultaco-kick-start-spring
  9. Hi, Glenn - As suggested by bult360, I think it's most likely that the tank with the bulge is a one-off user mod. Homelite tanks were fitted to UK market bikes when fi-glass tanks were made illegal for road use - I think starting in late '73. This covered the range 124/125/150/151, which all shared the same frame. Presumably, the same regulations also applied to the Alpina - my '73 mod. 85 came to me in 1988 with a Homelite tank, albeit with non-standard paint (covering non-standard dents and filler/"bondo" !) It has straight sides left and right. Homelite tanks were also offered by Sammy Miller (and possibly others) as an after-market update along with his version of the Slimline fi-glass unit. Page from Miller's '73 caralogue :- Hope this helps.
  10. Well, of course he would....... we are not rating riding ability here....... I thought it would amuse to compare a rider apparently using a tree with a rider actually using one. I guess you don't share my sense of humour.
  11. James - Looks like you're on the right track. The condenser needs to be earthed, i.e. the outer casing needs to make electrical contact with the frame. Don't buy anything in the way of more parts just yet. The two screws fixing contacts to stator plate enable the gap to be set at .016" (or .4mm) fully open : slacken big screw, turn little screw either way (eccentric cam), tighten big screw. The cam that opens the contacts is formed around the centre boss of the flywheel - make sure that it's smooth and rustfree. The "lift" part of the cam is around the keyway and you should refit the flywheel with this at the bottom to avoid damaging the points operating heel., making sure that you don't dislodge the key (For the time being simply re-fit stator plate with screws in centre of slots). Once the flywheel is back on you should be able to adjust the gap as necessary through the two little access windows. Here is a schematic of the ignition system, which you may find helpful :- With the spark plug screwed in there will be considerably more resistance when kicking - for this reason DO NOT kick when magneto cover is removed, as this could bend the shaft......! Don't leave fuel in the tank - the ethanol content will dissolve the resin, and you will add a leaking tank to a list of other things to be fixed.......
  12. James - Already looks way better after a clean ! My intitial suggestions were based around the assumption that the bike was actually running before it was stood up, and doing the absolute minimum to get the igntion working and seeing if the engine can be persuaded to run. Wiring to kill switch looks like a piece of old rubber-covered mains cable.......bin it. Does the engine have compression ? (A drop of oil down the plughole may assist what's already there) Is the fuel tank alloy or fi-glass ?
  13. James - Welcome to the forum - nice to hear from a Bultaco owner from my neck of the woods. Bike looks like it's been standing around for a while. Re the lack of spark : Where does the HT lead tail off to ? (Can see it attached to the coil and the plug, but it seems to disappear off the pic.) I think for starters (sorry for the pun) you should ditch, or at least disconnect the kill button, which looks so rusty it may be causing the problem. Then check out/remake the connections and clean the contact-breaker points.
  14. gooey - Yes, you're quite correct - hadn't seen that one ! I tend to look no further than the UK site, otherwise it can get VERY expensive........
  15. If you mean item # 264418176169 on eBay UK, that's right side fitting, and steel........ What the OP wants is an alloy LEFT side lever :- like this one removed from my model 159, and shown here with an alloy right side lever of the type which would have been fitted to his 199A originally. I think most of these alloy levers were replaced from choice with aftermarket steel fabricated levers - seems metisse is going the other way !
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