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lorenzo

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About lorenzo

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  • Bike
    (6X) Bultacos 73-81

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    East Anglia UK
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    Male

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  1. lorenzo

    Bike infohelp

    Pics. ? Unless they are damaged beyond saving, you may be best off cleaning up the originals. Cracks can be welded. The primary case is usually thick enough to get away with a fair amount of filing/grinding. Failing this, as Bloomfield states it is the same as fitted to various other models. Not so the mag. cover, which is quite thin and fragile in comparison - and probably also the reason that it's in very short supply. (you may be very lucky to find one that's any better than the one you have). It was also used on a smaller range of models - (for Sherpa range, 198/199 A & B models only) HTH
  2. lorenzo

    Bike infohelp

    Slowrider - This is a TRIALS bike, and most trials riders would expect well-tucked-away controls, to reduce the possibility of accidental operation or snagging on obstacles. The brake pedal you have appears to be a version of the standard l/h fitting ; the original version of r/h pedal offered by Bultaco was equally tucked away, but unfortunately also provided a less usable brake.(see responses above). For comparison :- The Spanish pedals mentioned are very nice, but you may also want to consider something a bit less eye-watering, price-wise :- https://www.inmotiontrials.com/product/late-sherpa-left-side-foot-brake-pedal/ It's your bike and you do what you like with it, but my personal feeling is that your views may change once you have ridden it a bit. Good luck with whatever you decide.
  3. Gearbox sprocket oil seal (Bultaco part #160-001) 30 x 40 x 7mm. Gearchange shaft seal (Bultaco part #160-004) 14 x 24 x 7mm. These are conventional lipped garter-type seals - should be obtainable from your local bearing/seal supplier.
  4. Leave the bent cylinder fins - any attempt to straighten will likely snap them. No head gasket - spigoted joint.
  5. Hi - I've just measured a new Mahle (Bultaco OEM) piston. Dimensions the same as those quoted by Old Gezzer. I expect you know that standard bore of 198A is 71mm.?
  6. Alpina M85 was available 1971-74. Which of these years / what model is your Sherpa engine ? Factory parts book (later issue) for Sherpa 250 M80 lists M85 frame and also upper/lower yokes (triple clamps) as replacement parts ; I take this to mean they are mutually interchangeable, even if not actually identical.
  7. Frame : Model 100 125 Pursang Mk. 6 Engine Model 68 250 Pursang Mk 4 Many components are shared throughout the 100/101/102/103/104 Pursang range. If it still has original Amal carb. this might provide a clue : 27mm. on the 125, 36mm. on 250. HTH
  8. Hmmmm....... On 5-spd. Sherpas, the early type sleeve gear bushes were replaced from mod. 124 onwards with needle roller bearings and the 20mm. o.d. seal #160-031 and this arrangement continued to the end of production as far as I know.. I've dug out a mod. 124 sleeve gear so you can see what yours should look like: (ignoring the worn sprocket splines) .. As far as counterboring your existing sprocket,goes, it looks to have suffered some significant scoring to its bore. If your new needle roller bearings are to enjoy a worthwhile service life, the bore needs to be very smooth. (see above). To save yourself lots of further grief, you may do well to check off all the other gearbox parts against the parts book; some earlier (or later) parts will interchange and work, many will not. Who knows what mechanical mischief it may have suffered in the last 40-odd years ? HTH
  9. Colin - As purchased, was this a complete (running) engine, or was it already dismantled ? Does the mainshaft have needle roller bearings ? The sleeve gear you have appears to be an earlier variant, which would have had 2 bronze plain bushes..........and NO oil seal..... It doesn't belong on a 191.
  10. Hi - The "spare" "O" ring 111-025-1 is for the crankshaft sprocket spacer (the crank seal sleeve). The sleeve gear seal 160-031 is correct at 14 x 20 x 3 - has the old seal been removed ? If your sleeve gear is 18mm. i.d. with 2 needle roller bearings, then the oil seal should be correct. This is originally a metal-cased seal - you will probably find that when you remove the old (rubber) seal it will leave the metal case behind, thus appearing to be just 18mm. Had me fooled the first time, too....... HTH
  11. Can't really comment on very early Bultaco numbering, but it makes sense to me that Lobito model 19 would have a 7-digit serial, in common with most (all ?) models up to at least model 99. I have units of models 80, 85, 92 - all have 7-digit serial no. Can't say at what point Bultaco went to 8-digit........logic says model 100 onwards, (to distinguish from 4-spd. Sherpa mod. 10), .......but I had a model 100 Pursang 125, still with a 7-digit serial ....... Maybe someone out there has the definitive answer ?
  12. Hi - 8 digit model/serial number is correct - who says it should have 9 ? 112-10Y019 is merely a casting/mould number and means little beyond as a means of identifying a basic crankcase casting. I think 9th. digit would be a suffix letter "A" or "B" on later variants of models 198/199 only (but I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong). HTH
  13. colinf - Yes, that's clearer - it was probably just the angle of the camera. as I said earlier. Do you know the gauge of your new spokes ?
  14. colinf - There may well be nothing wrong and it could just be the angle the wheels are at to the camera........a full side-on shot of the whole wheel from the right (non-brake) side would probably help. Don't worry about it being a learning curve ; I also like to do things right (first time if possible) and after decades of working with bikes I'm still learning, too.
  15. colinf - Dealing with the front wheel first :- Placing the security bolt diametrically opposite the valve stem hole is a bad idea - as b40rt pointed out, that's where the join weld is. This would be where the Akront label is placed on an original rim; also unsuitable for the reason that it's where two spokes are converging at the rim. Placing the security bolt hole as close as possible to opposite at a point with diverging spokes would locate it at just two nipple holes away from the join weld, probably equally undesirable. If you look at your wheel, you will see that the nipple holes/dimples in the rim are disposed in (nine) groups of four. I have only original Akront rims and all are drilled the same, with security bolt hole between 3rd. and 4th. groups from the valve hole, between 12th. and 13th. spoke from valve stem. .. Viewing wheel from the left, this means that with the valve at 6 o'clock, the security bolt hole is at 10 o'clock, i.e. security bolt trails valve in forward rotation. Hope this makes sense. Looking at your pic. something doesn't look quite right with the rear wheel lacing..........
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