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  1. Max - Ratchet appears to be correctly assembled, although I can't see ratchet spring. To ensure correct return spring tension, the kickstart shaft also needs to be in the correct position in rerlation to the ratchet. Viewed from the left side (outside the crankcase) the chamfered hole for the spring should face forward i.e. at 9 o'clock when the ratchet is fully disengaged against its stop. woody's earlier response gives an excellent overview of what to look for. While your engine is apart, now would be a good time to attend to the crack in the crankcase above the ratchet ......?
  2. I would challenge the idea that it's "better" ; right side brake would operate by cable - definitely not better in terms of feel or effectiveness. Modification : anything is possible with the necessary skills and financial wherewithall, but why would you even bother ? It's an old bike ; just accept it and enjoy it for what it is. Did you struggle with left foot brake / right foot gearchange, and did you consider changing over control sides when you last owned it ? Why not retrain your brain and feet to operate the bike as it is - definitely the more practical (and cheaper) option !
  3. Loads of parts still available, but a word of warning : they ain't cheap. Get ready to load the money pistol.........
  4. "J" identifies it as 325/340 cc (nominally 350, with 60mm. stroke) "M" is simply "motor" / engine (as opposed to "B" bastidor / frame no.) "173" .... I know nothing.
  5. As stated by Pedronicman above : black to points & condenser, green to earth. Get rid of the mains flex. - it's just confusing the issue.....
  6. New stanchions the way to go, as others have said. What many users don't appreciate is that the unplated insides of the stanchions are also susceptible to rust.
  7. Welcome to the forum, Morten. Forks are Betor, and all the parts look correct and in the correct order. Good luck with your new bike.
  8. Model 50 = El Bandido 350 1968-1971. HTH
  9. I'm not sure how much left-handedness / righthandedness plays a part in how natural either set up feels. In my own collection of bikes I have both right change / left brake and left change / right brake ; the gearchange of these also varies between up-for-up and down-for-up. In use, after the first brake use or gearchange I can usually cope once on the move. I also have one twist-and-go bike that can sometimes feel quite strange with no foot controls and handlebar levers for both front and rear brakes. I once asked a very capable rider with great experience in trials, motocross, grass track racing and road riding what was his most memorably testing bike to ride. His answer ? A pre-war Indian........with left hand throttle twistgrip - hand operated gearchange and foot operated clutch.
  10. It's quite possible that the fibre heel on the points has worn excessively (particularly if the cam/flywheel centre has been run dry) ; this can have a big effect on timing. Cam and fibre heel need a light smear of HMP grease to prevent this
  11. 2.5-2.7mm. BTDC is the measurement of piston travel at which the points begin to open. First, you need to set the maximum points gap by rotating the flywheel...... How are you determining the opening position ?
  12. ellessemo - If it's an original tail lamp, this would have separate bulbs for stop and tail functions. Yes, it's true that green wire is for stop lamp bulb, black wire for tail lamp.
  13. slowrider - Sorry to hear about your problem. Did the errant woodruff key cause any damage to keyway or the flywheel / shaft tapers ?
  14. Thanks, mcman56. Can't see why universal regulator should not work on an Alpina. LSMO - I don't have any accurate means of measuring resistor/diode performance. Is polarity an issue ? - this is AC, after all. Additionally, if I understand its function correctly the resistor/diode affects only the stoplamp / LT igntion coil circuit. I believe there must be other ways to provide a stoplamp : LEDs and a small battery, maybe ?
  15. There are also wiring schematics on this website : - Here's one I posted earlier (this is a scan of the appropriate page in the owners manual) :- This is not very clear ; here's another in Spanish that you should be able to make sense of :- Says Sherpa T, but wiring is exactly the same. Hope this helps.
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