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About pschrauber

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    Bultaco Sherpa 340

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  • Location
    Winter North Germany / Summer South Finland
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  1. Shouldn't a Saracen use a Sachs engine ... ? With a good Sachs engine I would be interested but that japanese fourstroke is a bit away from a Saracen I think.
  2. Do it carefully without damaging the rubber or overstretching the inner enforcement, also if you have a tire workshop near by let it be done on a tire machine then as often as you want. In my experience it does not change much, I did this a couple times back in the days, but experienced not much noticeable change in grip. I do believe that the most important knobbys are the ones at the sides which then dig in when they get load also the middle knobbies which do the same.and for this one sharp edge is better then two a bit rounded. Thus I don't change anymore, I also have my bikes road registered thus they get checked periodically and you don't want to show up for checking road worthiness having tires mounted against the arrow of direction very bad idea ..
  3. I bought the piston for my TR34 from Wössner in Germany, I gave them the used one so they could fabricate a custom replica. Wössner did then also the coating of the cylinder all in all it was then very priceworthey. The piston came with upper piston pin, roller bearing, piston pin clips and piston rings. Wössner does cylinder coating only if they can reproduce the piston too!
  4. To me it sounds that some of the incast electronic items are beginning to failing, that is something that happens especially to electronic ignitions when they get older. I had this issue with SEM and with Motoplat ignitions which could be solved by replacing the electronic parts. Or you buy a brand new one, powerdynamo have one when I remember right.
  5. I would enhance diameter of the tube to around 25 - 30mm, then a holetube connection between them, then I would fill up with void with insulation for two stroke exhaust. Close the box again but as such that it is easy to take apart for cleaning and replace the insulation. Then you should have a bit better performance without more noise, much more effect would have a bigger exhaust volume in general..
  6. On Bultaco ignitions, the spark should be a super bright flash! Try to locate the timing with a multimeter with inbuild "beep" for connection and disconnection of wires, then use a mm gauge for finding OT and measuring distance of spark before OT. That is IMHO the easiest way to check the right triming. You want to check too the distance of the points which should be precisely 0,4mm, more then 0,1mm off and the ignition can fail to deliver spark.
  7. Bultacos are a way more reliable then Montesas, Montesas have issues here and there. Ossa's do well if once rebuild properly, but to get the parts is a problem, while Bultaco parts are easy to get, second best is Montesa. Try to get a runner wich is in very orignial state, These are best, even if a bit more expensive you pay around 4 times as much for a replacement spare part then to a part bolted to or on a bike!
  8. And no the answewr to the silde repair, I would suggest to try out to use metal kned which has the properties of Aluminium. ToDo: 1. clean the slide, 2. the Surface where you want to apply have to be rough, (Dremel) 3. clean the surfaces again from any oil, 4. kned the two component of the metacl kned, 5. allpy where in need, 6. mill and grind away excessive material, (the properties are like aluminium). Brand: https://www.ebay.de/i/302159123726
  9. Parts for bing carbs have got very difficult to get that is true! And I know your dilemma, have gone through that by myself, what I did was get i functional Bing and a second replacemnet with better habits (Dell'Orto PHBH) for riding, now I can go back to the route of the original path in need. If you are interested I can give you (via PM) a ressource for Bing carbs which can sell you a new slide or even a brand new Bing carb either from German production (expensive) or made under licence in Spain with 28mm, albeit the last ones have the fuel supply on the "wrong" side other than that 100% original. There are guys in Germany that make slide out of brass to the Bing carbs of their twinshock Enduros and MX bikes here with enhanced design for better air flow and too to have more weight as more weight the slide have as less flutter will happen.I can proviode you with their adresses too, but that production will take time ... Last not Least the mentioned 28 or 26mm Dell'Orto even wih Malossi transparent plastic bowl is time correct, with 26mm the bike rides very good, with 28mm more agressive. Announcement of te Malosse plastic bowl in 1981 (mounted on a Dell'Orto PHBH):
  10. Yes very important, thus there are special rubbers for the bolt with angeled surfaces to follow the tank distributed from Bultaco, you should get them through InMotion or other Bultaco spare parts distributer.
  11. The hard chromed stanchions with a slight grind have the best properties depending sticktion, smoothness, beeing gas and oil tight, durability and lubricating the seals. The same system is used to ecxcavators and their hydraulics. The slightly grinded surface of a fresh cromed stanchion offers an oil film which gives the mentioned advantages. With the time the stanchions get "polished" and will loose the oil film thus have more sticktion, will wear the seals faster and is not as tight. Thus I personal recommend steel stanchions with hardchrome and a slightly grinded surface over aluminium ones with fancy coating and chemical etching. My supplier since 2012: Wissing Hartchrome
  12. Four things comes in mind: - carb proper adjusted with the right jets. - after the engines smells burned are may be the crank seals not proper sitting thus gear oil get burned. - ignition is set correctly, - less oil 1:50 is very good and sufficient, then oil with low burning point, also best fuel you can get with as little as possible ethanol. Depending how you ride you might go to a hotter plug as the engine might not produce as much heat you neet to start the self cleaning process, thus I would recommend to try a hotter plug (carefully), I have had great experiences with hotter plugs (going down from NGK BP 5 ES to NGK BP 4 ES to my Sherpa and my SWM TL.NW) which now work proper for years while the colder plugs had to replace frequently, the named NGK is too without internal resistor which helps too.
  13. I can state my empiric observation that there is no rule, sometimes the wheel bearing last "for ever" and sometimes the got bad after a couple of rides. I have used OEM, Aftermarket, NoName and first class industry standard, all the same.
  14. The high steel ones where heavy and bent easely, the steel ones are (still) quite good.
  15. Original handlebars where made out of steel with an extra bar in the middle. That was the standard set up for mostly all bikes back then and guess what these handlebars where not heavier the the aluminium bars of today I still have some steel ones from Bultaco, Italjet, Montesa and SWM (which was for the export bike model TL.NW yellow at the MK II from 1980).
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