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  1. Jep the con rod ends should definitely run free of any friction, neither piston pin nor lower crank pin should feel any kind of rough in iny direction. You have chamfered the two holes in the piston?
  2. pschrauber

    2x2 SWM TL320

    That is a goid question about the flexible cable and hose, you have to ask the inventor. The idea and the shaft is from the beginning 80's so I don't think there will be much useful information left even if the inventor is still alive and still living there where he lived back then. I have the adress of the inventor from back then if it is of interest?
  3. To my bikes sometimes the inner tire creeps sometimes not. It happens to Michelin and too to IRC. In my experience it did help to get the valve streight again and then during hibernation pump up the tire to 1.5 to 2.0 bar and leave it over the winter / a couple of month, that has cured it so far to my bikes. To reposition the valve my trick for get that done super easy. 1. Loosen the tire fasteners, 2. Just take out the air pressure. 3. Roll backwards while steering sharp curves (backwards slalom) and after a couple of meter the valve should be straight again. Works with front or rear tire! 4. refill air. 5. tighten the tire holder mounts. Takes 5 minutes and is super easy.
  4. There are some dealers in the US, that still have and sell them, too as replicas. Try there. Then there is Orlando Calonder in Buchs near Vaduz in Switzerland / Lichtenstein he has all kind of parts and stuff for Bultaco you never believed still exists, but he is not doing business with Britain. If you know someone from the continent that can order for you no problem.
  5. pschrauber

    199b clutch

    So I made the measurements The rod is exactly 190mm in length and exactly 5.5mm in diameter. The pushrod is 40mm in length, The mushroom bearing is 3mm in thickness and the edged washer 1.5mm. The balls are 5,0 to 5,5mm in diameter, there are two one between the pushrod and the rod and a second mounted to the clutch lever in the sidecases. See in the photo.
  6. If you want to invest in something really better working in terms of mixing air and fuel try a SmartCarb especially for MX or Enduro bikes. The manufacturer will adjust the carb to your Bultaco and then you never have to adjust the carb again. A Dellorto might be OK, I have a VST mounted to my KTM 500, it is a flat slide and I would suggest something similar but it will be a long and costly journey to get the carb proper adjusted. 3rd Idea is a Mikuni or Keihin here I would ask the Bultaco MX riders in the US as there most of them uses these carbs or SmartCarb on their Pursangs.
  7. pschrauber

    199b clutch

    Might be the rod is to short, I can measure the reserve rod (original!) to my 199b up. Then the ball on the lever end might be worn a bit too and the ball that is fitted to the clutch basket side might be of wrong diameter? Last not least is the right mushroom bearing mounted? How the adjusted clutch look of my 199b and too in full working order:
  8. There is even too a German Bultaco workshop book from Switzerland available, (ZUG Verlag), see here: https://www.buecher.de/shop/buecher/bultaco-wettbewerbsmodelle-alpinafronterapursangsherpa-t/broschiertes-buch/products_products/detail/prod_id/39918726/ To the AMAL carb Carl Ekblom is pretty right about the jets and nozzles. IF you think you have a carb problem you might replace the jets against new one, too the needle and in case of AMAL please look up the status of the slide and the inner cylinder inside the carb body. AMAL had sadly a soft carb body and a soft slide too, this resulted in quick wear and likewise worn out slides and inner bore (cylinder). I personal like the AMAL not and have replaced them against something contemporary else.
  9. I had a Puch with a Bing carb fitted with a tickler. You should press the tickler down until the gas runs out fron the hole for the tickler rod, that ensures that the engine has got enough gas to start in my experience.
  10. Nope they can be very different there are the standard ones in bare alumiuim, the racing versions are in black or in red these have often different idle jets instaed using nozzles. To the PHBH inbetween there where even standard ones in bare aluminium made with idle nozzles instaed of jets, then there can be many different types of needle nozzels mountet, from type AS to type T there are 12 different versions! (AS, AV, BC, BN, CF, CU, DG, DN , EF, M, P, and type T). Ask the seller about the mounted jets and nozzles (Standard are 5mm idle jets and 6mm main jets and AV needle nozzles). Also the float set up can be different too, but with not big effect to the air - fuel mixture.
  11. I have read some literature about the boost bottle and the main reason for mounting one is to collect the deflected air gas flow from the piston inside the crank. With mounted reeds this effect is much lowered thus the boost bottle will not have a big effect, but try it out and go ahead. If there is some effect please let me know. More effect would be installing a newer carb and newer reeds if you ask me.
  12. Mostly the gear selector mechanism in the extra casing is the problem, a bit delicate if the lever got hit it can cause a slight warping of the inner lever and cause trouble in setting gears. My suggestion is too inspect the parts (shaft for the gear lever and the drum lever) if they are still straight. I once had a blocked 6th gear just because the extra side case was mounted in first hurry not pefect aligned to to the shaft.
  13. So you did not change anything (You haven't mounted a bigger front or rear sprocket)? Then probably the position of the wheelaxle has changed. Last not least all my Bultacos needed and need a half link to have tbe proper chain length?. May be that is missing right now?
  14. Be aware that the TXR have a later Dell'Orto PHBH 26, of type SD which is a Mikuni clone and fitted with an air screw. The factory adjustment for the 240 and 276cc model are: main jet: 88, idle jet: 58, nozzle jet: BN 266, clip: 2nd from above, slide: 45°, air screw: 1/4 out, float: 8.3 gramm, needle: I have to look up, if of interest gas valve: 200
  15. Good to know, and it do work well. When I upgraded my SWM with original spare parts there where no problems, prices where low and most stuff was available. Now supply has come to an natural end. I ordered many tiny parts twice back then to have a spare, did so too with the enhanced clutch engage system. These where sold a bit over ten years by Dagaracing in Italy for just a couple of Euros... No one needed that stuff beside a group of riders on weird bikes... that changed much and now the part party is over, likewise to TXR covers... With a coupke of bikes I would leave one stock...
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