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pschrauber

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About pschrauber

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    Bultaco Sherpa 340

Profile Information

  • Location
    Winter North Germany / Summer South Finland
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. Hi BRT650, your avatar isn't moving anymore!
  2. Mmmh having some "simple" points ignitions I highly recommend that at first you set the distance gap between the points at 0,4mm! My way to set the timing to my point ignition bikes: I use a Multimeter or a Motoplat beep tool and install an OT gauge, then sat the gauge to zero and mount the beeper, then measure the ignition according to the beep is according and note the measured distance before OT. Now I take the rotor off without changing the position or in case the position has changed I readjust the crank to the measurement I made and noted before and mark the position of the plate with a pencil, (I' am marking now the wrong or off position!) Now I place a degree scale to the crank shaft and mount a pointer and turn the crank until I have the right timing, now I have the degree in which direction I have to move the ignition plate, loosen it and move it the specified degree, fasten it again and remount the rotor and check the ignition timing again. This way you will get the most accurate timing a Bultaco sadly need, if timing is too much off the engine likes to run backwards or has a silly behavior in my experience, that can even accor if the gap of the points are not correct set up. Tools:
  3. pschrauber

    Bing

    Had the honor, a photo of your set up would be nice.
  4. pschrauber

    Bing

    Hi Yves, I made bushings out of PA6 plastic on booth sides as the flanges of the Dell'Orto are smaller. Now the specs: main jet: 110 idle jet: 45 needle: X2 clip: 3rd groove from top needle jet: AV 266 slide: No. 40 choke jet: 70 gas valve: 200 I live near sea level took 3rd groove to the needle so high up therefore small idle jet, that worked well for me.
  5. Sounds good a photo would be nice, with the older clutch cover you need a clutch assembly with an mount to the case with an o-ring fitted. You get the cable from venhill or Mr. SWM.
  6. pschrauber

    Bing

    Sorry I have a 28mm fitted to my Sherpa a 26mm would be in my personal view as stated but probably not so well expressed would the better. The best result I got with a SmartCarb btw. I have mounted a 25mm to my SWM TL.NW and it is a blast under all riding conditions: If you are looking for a great replacement this is the best option to any bike, i have mounted this kind of carb to two bikes already. I can provide you the spec's of the 28mm PHBH if you are interested in them as well.
  7. pschrauber

    Bing

    The Bing is good, the Dell'Orto better but 28mm is a bit much, my Bultaco 199b got very powerfull with that size of carb with a 26mm PHBH the bike got much nicer and throttle friendlier. Both sides of the Dell'Orto are smaller in diamter then the bulky Bing so you have to make adapters (tubes rings) to mount the Dell'Orto. If you are very good in machining you might tune the Bing, fitting a brass slide with a flat underside and a rounded cut away of 60° also a rounded edge in the middle in visor line of the needle, then also replace the idle jet, polish the edges and chamfer the intake side in a more aerodynamic matter this will transform the carb to a better the Dell'Orto unit.
  8. I think if you are interested especially especially in Bultaco you shoukd look up these books in general new or used: History de la Sherpa The Story, Francois Stauffacher ISBN: 84-607-3101-4 Bultaco Eine Leidenschaft für den Motorsport Francois Herreros ISBN German: 84-920080-0 ISBN Spanish: 84-920080-3-2 The German print is the newest version and includes extra material, charts and photos that where provided by Orlando Calonder, Bruno Wiest and Francois Herreros himself by translating and redesigning the book in German. Anyway the Bultacos are great bikes, goid ressources are too old magazines from that era.
  9. Three possibilities come in my mind: The clutch plates might be stick together I woukd check the clutch and here if the push rod is installed adjusted right. Then a too thick gear oil which let the clutch slip. I only use HTX 740 now which gives best clutch action in my opinion. You might change to Elf HTX or ATF too. The third possibility is a not right working "Mitnehmer" (the ratchet thing is not actuated proberly which can be a too soft spring, too little tension on the spring or a worn ratchet. These things I would like to go through / determine in your situation.
  10. pschrauber

    Bing

    Second grove counted from the top or second lowest / leanest adjusting of the needle is standard or normally a good start if you are on or near sea level. Then do some rides a half km or so at a bit up hill with 3/4 throttle if the engine doesn't sound lean, return slow or with clutch or without gear downhill. After that control the new or cleaned plug for coloration, brown is OK black or wet is to rich and whitish is to lean.
  11. That is a pity and I hope it is not the lower stanchion as it was at a pair of forks I bought believibg it where "just" the inner stanchions. There is no other clue then pulling and may be putting one end into a vice and using an oil filter wrench to turn or move the rod until it comes out.
  12. Yep that piston is done and sadly some metal was shaved away at least a new piston with next overbore and a matching rebore with honing to the cylinder. I would also replace upper piston pin and bearing cage. Then please check the lower bearing of the con-rod too, if it feels a bit rough replace the con-rod and the lower bearing and pin also. As you thrn have to split the engine fresh crank bearings and crank seals are also to replace. You might then examine the complete engine bearings and clutch. That was a very unfortunate happening. That is a very nice bike you have there, at least it is worth effort.
  13. I would use shocks that can be fitted with the right springs upon your weight in combination with the weight of the bike. That is most importand, if you have the right static and dynamic sag most rear shocks will perform right, everything else is less important and less costly in set up. In my experience to find the right spring is the clue.
  14. A very good page about SWM is the Belgian Tobec (Montebecane) site from Michael Debucquoy : http://www.motobecane-trialclub.be/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=25&Itemid=125 Very well sortet and tons of information.
  15. pschrauber

    Tyre Pressures

    Well my highest concerns are punches you might get in combination with stones or edges on artifical obstacles of which we have many, in cases of good grip and sharp stones and long courses I use: 10,15 PSI or 0,7 bar at the front and 7,25 PSI front 0,5 bar at the rear, In muddy cicumstanced I lower to 7, 25 PSI at the front and 5,8 PSI or 0,4 to the rear, that has worked so far very well.
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