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About pschrauber

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    Bultaco Sherpa 340

Profile Information

  • Location
    Winter North Germany / Summer South Finland
  • Gender

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  1. Four things comes in mind: - carb proper adjusted with the right jets. - after the engines smells burned are may be the crank seals not proper sitting thus gear oil get burned. - ignition is set correctly, - less oil 1:50 is very good and sufficient, then oil with low burning point, also best fuel you can get with as little as possible ethanol. Depending how you ride you might go to a hotter plug as the engine might not produce as much heat you neet to start the self cleaning process, thus I would recommend to try a hotter plug (carefully), I have had great experiences with hotter plugs (going down from NGK BP 5 ES to NGK BP 4 ES to my Sherpa and my SWM TL.NW) which now work proper for years while the colder plugs had to replace frequently, the named NGK is too without internal resistor which helps too.
  2. I can state my empiric observation that there is no rule, sometimes the wheel bearing last "for ever" and sometimes the got bad after a couple of rides. I have used OEM, Aftermarket, NoName and first class industry standard, all the same.
  3. The high steel ones where heavy and bent easely, the steel ones are (still) quite good.
  4. Original handlebars where made out of steel with an extra bar in the middle. That was the standard set up for mostly all bikes back then and guess what these handlebars where not heavier the the aluminium bars of today I still have some steel ones from Bultaco, Italjet, Montesa and SWM (which was for the export bike model TL.NW yellow at the MK II from 1980).
  5. pschrauber

    His fork kits

    The simple PRO Version with one air cartridge in one side and a couple of springs in the the other fork leg is good but two cartridges is much better, believe me, I had ordered the PRO version with one cartridge and wasn't pleased in comparison with the two cartridges version for both fork legs one, which works so much better. (I have now three HFS Systems mounted all of the are double cartridges systems now).
  6. Standard chains are good, if you have to use half links ISIS or Regina should be considered as these have half links. The ISIS half links due fit in my experience also to DID 520 ERT2 chains which I chooses mostly due to their very good performance in tensile strenght (and so little wear) but still are OK in weight, (under 6 pounds). There is just one chain better in tensile strength which then again is 7 pounds or 15% heavier. For a Chart of tensile strength see here: http://www.didchain.com/chainSpecs.html I would NOT use any kond of O or X ring for dirt bikes if you are using them also in weat, muddy and clayish enviroment, the fine sand will eat up the rubber rings in only some hours. * half links: Very important if you have even numbers of sprockets front an rear, especially front!
  7. Points and the point gap is a common issue depending Sherpas. - The point gap should be 0,4mm exactly not more not less, - The points should be in very good condition too. The new points made today are not as good anymore as the old ones, try to get NOS. Here especially the material of the small metal bit's pushing against each other seems to be much softer nowadays then before in my experience.
  8. Trial hiking I do a lot especially in the Alpes, the Italian calls it Motoalpinismo, sadly the possibilities are getting limited, but it makes a lot of fun also with old machines.
  9. According the "Use e Manutazione Aprilia TXR 312 M": 240cc of hydraulic oil brand / type Motul F 10 W. The replacing period is between 1500 - 2000km
  10. I had good experience with Woessner, who made the piston, rings, piston pin and also did the cylindercoating to my TR34, all in all verý convinient and cheaper as if it would have been done separatly. I now can get through my engine workshop spare rings just by sending them the batch number, (I refer to German Woessner here…)
  11. Yep they have an effect to the bike makes it a bit snappier, most effect you will get by using carbon fiber ones, be aware of replicas sold one E-bay for cheap not made by Boysen of bad qzulaity (I suggest not to use them). THe backdraw is price and they do wear not fast but after 500km on the speedometer mine had a bit fuzzy ends when looked ap through mangnifying glases. What is also a good idea to improve performance and so have more effect then the Boyesen: - using the cage and reeds of the TY250, (a bit of miiing is needed) - using the rubber inlet of teh RD 250,
  12. I would prefer in your dilemma to check out static and dynamic sag anf then start from there looking up the right spring. To me most standard sprungs are to hard as I weight 70kg. Thus I have to replace even standard good springs. I made good experience with HFS springs and too with their additional air cartridges which allowed you to adjust the fork very good. But you get too just different spring packages to your weight needs.
  13. I think that was a rare incident where someone was rushed into high bidding during an auction. Anyway a very complete bike and in very well technical status with bike registering and history will get good prices. And when you look a bit closer now bikes in original status even with patina are going straight up because restaurations are easy made but original paint and plastic can't be restored just right preserved and that the complete bike live time thus here the highest prices will be archived.
  14. Yes mine have the little excentric bolt too and this is a problem since the bike was designed the upper "Eyes" of the shock do rub to your legs.
  15. Scandinavian rigid I would guess?
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