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  1. Nope as You and all other gasoline customers where informed in the advance that E5 and E10 ist not suitable for some vehicles and with E10 the effects are even more visible. Like here from Dutch Shell which will soon be British: https://dutchperformanceproducts.com/e10-gasoline-problems-and-solutions/ To ether, this chemical is the additional indigence that has replaced lead in the fuel in terms of rising the octane, (not the lubrication of valve shafts). You find ether especially in these fuel products: - Startgas cans, - DME: Di - Metyl - Ether is cleaning the diesel engine inside, * - MTBE: Methyl - Tert - Butyl - Ether is the ether that is rising the octane level for petrol engines, - ETBE: Ethyl - Tert - Butyl - Ether is the ether that is rising the octane level too for petrol engines, * That is why you get better fuel consumption with Ultimate diesel fuels, as ether has more energy stored. ** That is why you get a little bit of power increase with Ultimate fuels and much higher octane as these have more energy stored and rise the octane level.
  2. Nope, as this is gasoline is sold to all kind of cars all around Europe and these use... guess what... a lot of that rubber parts too and then please read what is written about the material and the harmfullness. In the chart of your link a 4 is doubtful which means it can in doubt harm that's all it is not an F! How many claims are there from thousands of car and motorcycle customers that are using this fuel? If there would have bern or is an issue with ESSO or ARAL premium gasoline we would have known that for years .... .... You are looking something up that is in fraction harmful but in practice not important or as we say you are nearby to count pees. Gasoline and alcohol in general are solvents and thus are dissolving part of the rubber and the effect is that the rubber gets faster old and cracks, likewise does UV radiation and hot / cold cycles. What solvents do to rubber is that they dissolve the chemicals responsible too keep the rubber or plastic smooth and flexible as mentioned that is happening anyway, but so little there is no difference.
  3. That is sad, probably them, a small company specialized in competition tires. You have to email them too. http://mc-reifen.de/
  4. Oh yes you are right!!! "That is strange, may be no Ebay deals from Germany because we are in trials winter hibernation and kind of lockdown situation right now? But at a German tire online shop like here: https://de.mynetmoto.com/shop.cfm/irc/tr 011/motorradreifen.html You find them too.
  5. It is a good idea to use fuel without ethanol, because ethanol is shortening the storage time, especially in cold seasons. I have had some experience with desintegrated fuel when stored in harsh winter climate with under - 20°. Thus I avoid that fuel now completely. And as other stated it is in my opinion very good to use premium fuels, especially when they are ethanol free and come with cleaning chemical elements. Here I would recommend ESSO Ultra or ARAL Ultimate. ESSO bought ARAL and thus theur Ultimate petrol and diesel fuels which are ethanol free and have engine cleaning components included too have high octane and produce less carbon. - higher octane will avoid pinging and you can too set up your trials bike to a leaner carburation which is uselfull as we ride a lot with very low rpm. - without ethanol there is no storage problem anymore. - instead of ethanol ARAL / ESSO uses ether wich gives an extra boost. - the ether works too as a cleaning components and will wash away the carbon build up inside the engine. I run Ultimate in my TY, SWM, Montesa, Bultaco bikes with good result. For long term storage and very low temperatures I use Aspen racing as last fill up before the bike goes in a longer hibernation but I don't think you need to go as long.
  6. You find them in Germany, also on E-Bay or German Amazon.
  7. Does not look right in my opinion. The original Acront rims with red label are super light. The original rear rim is a bit narrow, (1.85) it would be of much more useful traction effect to use a slightly broader rim (2.15) from Acront which is now named Morad. You can mount tubless IRC or tube type IRC on classic trials rims, these will stay on the bed and are as good as Michelin.
  8. A bit more Volume, think about the area / Volume the both original tubes of the Bultaco have and do you now have more or less?
  9. Piston slap, the noise is btw. going away in higher revs, sounds to be a bit used the internals in my personal view. May be new rings would hapl a bit.
  10. There is no big differences in production manners at Bultaco for the last model. The engine hasn't been changed between the 198a and 198b, it is the chassis that is different between the a and b model and identical between the 198b and 199b and here the same mods where done to the 270 250cc models during the production run from the early b's to the later ones as I know and have followed.
  11. Yes a very good structured write up and apply able to all kind of carbs to which you get different jets, needles, needle nozzles and slides and so on. The only thing's left out is determining choke, the gas valve and the float weight. I personal had no big joy in adjusting the VM at my TY it is very costly to obtain spare parts besides standard main jets for VM carbs in Germany, Dell'Orto is so much easier to get and much less costly (beside the slides), thus I went that route.
  12. It is nearly impossible to get a clue what was mounted to 199b models after Bultaco went in bankrupty. From there on the bikes were build as a social program for the reminding workers of Bultaco that did not found a job after the factory had closed it doors. Instead they workes got a corner at the Derbi factory nearbywith a pile of parts to put together what was left. I know that might sound harsh but that is how it went. Better 199b model bikes with a good and more consistent quality were those build in the beginning of 1981 until October of 1981 as they all really wanted that the Bultaco factory would stay alive.
  13. Especially the lower rubber flange might be to long, you can too turn the exhaust flange thus put it more outside but too down. Last not least you can too affect the poisrion of the lower rubber flange with the mounting position and angle of the rear exhaust. Take all loose and mount it without the rubber fangles so it fits under the rank then check rubber length then mount it again. You can too put solid rubber pieces between gastankseat combo and frame to get extra mm of space.
  14. Parts are getting more and more difficult to get, the TXR is a bit different to the forerunner TX and too to the following Climber model, that makes it a bit hard to find parts. I know a resource for part- catalogues and engine- catalogues to that model with explodes views and so on, pm if interested. To the air fillter as b40rt stated build your own. I know a guy in the US who can make all kind of rubber parts, but due to the shipping costs nowadays I don't think that this a priceworthy solution but I can provide his address to you too. (I have already thought to make a small production run too but the costs are high, as I hve to make a rubber mold too which will cost again ... If there would be at least 5 people buying each 2 then I would start ...)
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