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pschrauber

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About pschrauber

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  • Bike
    Bultaco Sherpa 340

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  • Location
    Winter North Germany / Summer South Finland
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. I have two air cooled monos and I do like them these have been and are still captable of doing advanced trials riding. In terms of modern artistic riding they are acceptable if you are very good, but when it comes to trials riding without stopping they are easier to use then twinshock bikes and as mentioned you can use them for trials hiking very well too. Then they look quite nice too. Biggest problem are spare parts especially to Italian (except Fantic) and Spanish bikes. Here my bikes in spoiling surrounding ...
  2. Fantic 200 is the best option for a beginner in classic riding. A TY mono was and is the best clubman trials bike if you like air cooled monshocks. It is simply up to you what to choose and Yes! the TY twonshock or a SWM are nice to have too, but a bit heavier. In modern trials riding the electric bikes are in a clubman level also not only nice to ride but too nice to have, so little maintaince and the power output is great then again so different... it will spoil any gasoline driven bike, any!
  3. I have some containers of Aspen premix fuel for forest machinery and too some canisters of Aspen Race fuel with 100 octane. I have stored this fuel types several years even a decade and that storage is not harming the fuel when stored tight and in darkness. I use Aspen with my brush cutter if you cutting brush and high grass for hours like I do in the summer then you want an healthy environment around you. The Aspen race mix I bought for my MX 500 as that bike likes to mess around a lot with gas and oil, with Aspen no mess, no smoke and no deposit!
  4. I can tell by evidence that E10 is not so good storeable anymore, before with ethanol free gas or fuel with "just" 5% ethanol I could store fuel in containers from 5L onwards over the winter, now if heavy frost is involved (we get -20 deg) it dissolves, change smell, and creating and gelantinous deposit even with chemicals for longer storage.
  5. I believe the bike has the common ignition problem with broken internal electronic components, not easy to fix. The most. common reason of bikes with incast electronic ignitions frim Motoplat or SEM. Then parts are missing too, Then no information about road registration. Around 500 Euros or 500 $ or 500 GBP. I have a TR34 too a MK II from 1988 and that bike was complete came with paoers and was running, I just paid 1200 € and the bike had even the original decals. This bike is not and you don't know what issues are inside the engine or in terms of the bushings of the linkage of the rear and so on.
  6. My 2 Penny/Cent: If you use the right plug and right carb or electronic injection setting the plug will last very long. In my personal experience older plug models are more tolerant / can be used in a broader heat range, Plugs without R gizmo (inbuild resistor) last longer. My oldest plug still working is mounted in my Bultaco Sherpa 199b, with is a nice pink colored LODGE plug from 1981, which is has been used for 3500 km. The plug seems to have been mounted when the bike was new and is still working nice, only minor wear and shows with a clean big crisp spark, the plug even survived the engine top- end rebuild thus a complete piston, crank and rebore! I have bought 10 of these old LODGE plugs so the next 200 years the bike is saved! I only use standard NGK plugs without resistor and if in need I have changed the heat range to be aligned with the current riding adjustments, thus have hotter plugs mounted to my SWM and the Montesa but a colder to my TY.
  7. That states all you need to know, even in very very muddy events they would not make sense as you emberass the environment with them. A solution still clogging not only the chain but too the rest of the bike would be chain oil on wax or PTFE basis that is at least easy to wipe away and works quite good, a drop each minute I would think is all you need.
  8. That is much for a Majesty? I have reached 76kg in running order with a schoolboy frame. A modern bike is easier to ride yes but the riding style has changed too much more aggressive not floating, riding the classic style on a modern trials bike looks suspicious...
  9. Would recommend a lightweight twinshock too, thus he and keep up with his style of rideing and do not have to "fear" the artistic stuff you do nowadays. The mentioned Yamaha TY 175 is a very nice bike even so a 200 or 240cc Fantic I would take in consideration.
  10. The 428 will only provide 11 teeth, the 520 9 in front. The 520 is too a bit more sustainable then the 428. The 428 is mostly lighter, I' am using a 428 chain.
  11. You might ask Hugh Bultaco in the US: http://www.bultacoclassic.com/ Inmotion in UK: https://www.inmotiontrials.com/ or Orlando Calonder in Switzerland: https://www.orlandocalondersa.com/product-Bultaco
  12. Mmmh, these plastic stuff is weird, it should be made out two pieces: an outer bush and an inner one that will fit inside? See here: I would be careful by cutting of a part of the spring you might get much different sag which then might not be in accordance with the weight of the bike and you anymore?
  13. Most play comes from the mounts of the shocks and any spheral bearing mountings and here an asthonishing 0,5mm can lead to several mm at the rear of the swing arm. The most important bearings sre the spheral ones as these are very expensive and if they have play and not working seals will grind themself in hours of use down. When you thighten up everything there should not much play left. Another hint to all mono shock type rear suspension, give them at least an annual maintaince and replace the grease, also use water resistant grease.
  14. CZ mounted them to several models from the early sixties onwards like this 1964 125cc CZ MX: Then the sport bikes got even lighter hubs with asymetrical hub to save weight, the symmetrcal sport hubs where then standard to the serial bikes of CZ and the design even copied by MZ, (MZ hubs are quite a bit heavier) .
  15. Please check the ignition again, the timing and the points distance, too how the points look like That happend to my Sherpa too after a winter hibernation time and waking up the bike again and the issue was a wrong timing. Don't ask why it happend and how it just showed up and starting backwards was the main issue.
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