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pschrauber

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About pschrauber

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    Bultaco Sherpa 340

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  • Location
    Winter North Germany / Summer South Finland
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. My 2 Penny/Cent: If you use the right plug and right carb or electronic injection setting the plug will last very long. In my personal experience older plug models are more tolerant / can be used in a broader heat range, Plugs without R gizmo (inbuild resistor) last longer. My oldest plug still working is mounted in my Bultaco Sherpa 199b, with is a nice pink colored LODGE plug from 1981, which is has been used for 3500 km. The plug seems to have been mounted when the bike was new and is still working nice, only minor wear and shows with a clean big crisp spark, the plug even survived the engine top- end rebuild thus a complete piston, crank and rebore! I have bought 10 of these old LODGE plugs so the next 200 years the bike is saved! I only use standard NGK plugs without resistor and if in need I have changed the heat range to be aligned with the current riding adjustments, thus have hotter plugs mounted to my SWM and the Montesa but a colder to my TY.
  2. That states all you need to know, even in very very muddy events they would not make sense as you emberass the environment with them. A solution still clogging not only the chain but too the rest of the bike would be chain oil on wax or PTFE basis that is at least easy to wipe away and works quite good, a drop each minute I would think is all you need.
  3. That is much for a Majesty? I have reached 76kg in running order with a schoolboy frame. A modern bike is easier to ride yes but the riding style has changed too much more aggressive not floating, riding the classic style on a modern trials bike looks suspicious...
  4. Would recommend a lightweight twinshock too, thus he and keep up with his style of rideing and do not have to "fear" the artistic stuff you do nowadays. The mentioned Yamaha TY 175 is a very nice bike even so a 200 or 240cc Fantic I would take in consideration.
  5. The 428 will only provide 11 teeth, the 520 9 in front. The 520 is too a bit more sustainable then the 428. The 428 is mostly lighter, I' am using a 428 chain.
  6. You might ask Hugh Bultaco in the US: http://www.bultacoclassic.com/ Inmotion in UK: https://www.inmotiontrials.com/ or Orlando Calonder in Switzerland: https://www.orlandocalondersa.com/product-Bultaco
  7. Mmmh, these plastic stuff is weird, it should be made out two pieces: an outer bush and an inner one that will fit inside? See here: I would be careful by cutting of a part of the spring you might get much different sag which then might not be in accordance with the weight of the bike and you anymore?
  8. Most play comes from the mounts of the shocks and any spheral bearing mountings and here an asthonishing 0,5mm can lead to several mm at the rear of the swing arm. The most important bearings sre the spheral ones as these are very expensive and if they have play and not working seals will grind themself in hours of use down. When you thighten up everything there should not much play left. Another hint to all mono shock type rear suspension, give them at least an annual maintaince and replace the grease, also use water resistant grease.
  9. CZ mounted them to several models from the early sixties onwards like this 1964 125cc CZ MX: Then the sport bikes got even lighter hubs with asymetrical hub to save weight, the symmetrcal sport hubs where then standard to the serial bikes of CZ and the design even copied by MZ, (MZ hubs are quite a bit heavier) .
  10. Please check the ignition again, the timing and the points distance, too how the points look like That happend to my Sherpa too after a winter hibernation time and waking up the bike again and the issue was a wrong timing. Don't ask why it happend and how it just showed up and starting backwards was the main issue.
  11. I only use gasoline with high octane ARAL Ultimate with 102 ROZ, I believe BP Ultimate has the same properties. This will help at first if the engine gets hot and in general. Next tipp: Do you have changed the compression using a too thin head gasket or is the piston head differently shaped, compared with a NOS piston. Tipp #03: Is the ignition proper set up and not too far from before TDC? Tipp #04: Go a bit richer in your carb set up what kind if slide with what cutaway are you using? Dell'Ortos have cutaways from 0, 15, 20, 30, 40, 45, 50 up to 60 depending the model as more cutaway as leaner is the complete set up and this effects the complete carburator from idle screw, idele jet, needle, slide position to main jet.
  12. If you like SWM get a 125cc or a 200cc Gori and problem solved. If you go the big cc route then another money pit is opened. You can't get all choosing a Twinshock means you got limitations and you have to live with them. I have now a 1953 Ardie as a trials with even more limitations and love them.
  13. Both are from Colander but the spokes to the CZ are one end buttened and straight in stainless steel while the spokes for the Bultaco are also one end buttened but bend. So completely different in geometry but the same in material. The rims are too from Colander, he is doing the holes and the punches too.
  14. The best way is to phone him up and tell him what you want, they can even reproduce spokes or only the nipples. It is up to you what you want and they will manufacture them, easiest to avoid language barriers would be to sent them an old one so you will get a reproduction that will fit. In case of spokes and nipples I highly recommend to send templates.
  15. The MAJESTY bikes are "tuned" twinshock Yamaha TY, I have a 125cc TY from 1979 that I rode in the eighties a bit just in the forest and gravel roads, then I put it away. I do like the bike in general but heavy and underpowered, I dislike the flexy fork of the 125/175cc model. The MAJESTY 175 came too as a 200cc and that is what I did, bought a TY 175 cylinder and head, did a rebore with w bigger cylinder, mounted the big 250 reed cage to the cylinder ( needs some work), also did some porting and made my own much bigger exhaust, too a bigger air box for better breathing and a new rear silencer and the bike runs great. I first mounted a 26mm carb but that was too much power! (I was really impressed by the power) thus I now have again put the 22mm Mikuni with 125cc specs on, I will replace the metal reeds of the 250cc against dual stage ones which will improve low and mid end in terms of engine strength, you can't have too little torque! The frame is nice but be careful not everything fits, our technical traffic board did not like the MAJESTY frame and had serious issues with the upper rear shock mount and the light steering steem. The rear swing arm is lengthened, too the side stand, the front has now the fork of the 250cc mono mounted with is much better and as heavy / light as the tiny 32mm fork. I like the bike very much and would suggest that model.
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