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About pschrauber

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    Advanced Member

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  • Bike
    Bultaco Sherpa 340

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  • Location
    Winter North Germany / Summer South Finland
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  1. I only use gasoline with high octane ARAL Ultimate with 102 ROZ, I believe BP Ultimate has the same properties. This will help at first if the engine gets hot and in general. Next tipp: Do you have changed the compression using a too thin head gasket or is the piston head differently shaped, compared with a NOS piston. Tipp #03: Is the ignition proper set up and not too far from before TDC? Tipp #04: Go a bit richer in your carb set up what kind if slide with what cutaway are you using? Dell'Ortos have cutaways from 0, 15, 20, 30, 40, 45, 50 up to 60 depending the model as more cutaway as leaner is the complete set up and this effects the complete carburator from idle screw, idele jet, needle, slide position to main jet.
  2. If you like SWM get a 125cc or a 200cc Gori and problem solved. If you go the big cc route then another money pit is opened. You can't get all choosing a Twinshock means you got limitations and you have to live with them. I have now a 1953 Ardie as a trials with even more limitations and love them.
  3. Both are from Colander but the spokes to the CZ are one end buttened and straight in stainless steel while the spokes for the Bultaco are also one end buttened but bend. So completely different in geometry but the same in material. The rims are too from Colander, he is doing the holes and the punches too.
  4. The best way is to phone him up and tell him what you want, they can even reproduce spokes or only the nipples. It is up to you what you want and they will manufacture them, easiest to avoid language barriers would be to sent them an old one so you will get a reproduction that will fit. In case of spokes and nipples I highly recommend to send templates.
  5. The MAJESTY bikes are "tuned" twinshock Yamaha TY, I have a 125cc TY from 1979 that I rode in the eighties a bit just in the forest and gravel roads, then I put it away. I do like the bike in general but heavy and underpowered, I dislike the flexy fork of the 125/175cc model. The MAJESTY 175 came too as a 200cc and that is what I did, bought a TY 175 cylinder and head, did a rebore with w bigger cylinder, mounted the big 250 reed cage to the cylinder ( needs some work), also did some porting and made my own much bigger exhaust, too a bigger air box for better breathing and a new rear silencer and the bike runs great. I first mounted a 26mm carb but that was too much power! (I was really impressed by the power) thus I now have again put the 22mm Mikuni with 125cc specs on, I will replace the metal reeds of the 250cc against dual stage ones which will improve low and mid end in terms of engine strength, you can't have too little torque! The frame is nice but be careful not everything fits, our technical traffic board did not like the MAJESTY frame and had serious issues with the upper rear shock mount and the light steering steem. The rear swing arm is lengthened, too the side stand, the front has now the fork of the 250cc mono mounted with is much better and as heavy / light as the tiny 32mm fork. I like the bike very much and would suggest that model.
  6. You can still get them, Stainless steel spokes and even with one buttend end and with aluminium nipples, Orlando Calonder in Buchs Switzerland is still manufacture them. He has made several batches of spokes and nipples zto my bikes , and of course with aluminium nipples and stainless steel spokes. You can save a good amount of weight with doing so and the properties of the aluminium and the stainless steel is flawless. Here the rear wheel with super light CZ Duraluminium/Magnesium hub and Acront rim: The front wheel even lighter, also CZ and Acront: And too as we are in the Bultaco section, Orlando Carlonder stainless steel spokes and aluminium nipples mounted to Bultaco Sherpa 199b hubs: I never had an issue so far with his spokes and also in terms of corrosion the wheel are trouble free. The website of Orlando: https://www.orlandocalondersa.com/product-Speichen und Felgen
  7. pschrauber

    Ty Flywheel Removal

    I recommend not to apply too much heat to the rotor, the magnetic properties will go away if you heat up the rotor too much! I recommend tu use a heavy puller, the use of WD40 serveral times, some small knocks while the puller is set on and patience. The front gear on a Montesa 242 has the same issue from time to time.
  8. In my experience and I have ridden / driven outside the EU too, I recommend to get the bike / vehicle full road worthy registered as a real street motorcycle or car and too likewise insured. Then you only need your registration papers and have got too the international insurance card, with that green card and a roadworthy registration for day and night, you can travel with your vehicle where ever you want: EU, USA, Russland, Norway or Switzerland, or now too UK. I personal have nearly all bike registered and insured, it is around 30 - 40 Euro for insurance and 20 - 35 Euro for tax per year depending the size of the engine, not much to debate over, the roadworthy test is expensive, around 110 Euro every 2nd year to each bike it might be cheaper or even not necessary in the UK?
  9. Same to me bought too some stuff there even twice, the seller only speaks Spanish or Catalan. In my personal experience the Spaniards have got a bit strange not much communication is possible??? I ordered the Montesa 75 year anniversery book, I did got nothing not even a worthy of calling it reciepe or bill (I paid in advance to an obscure internet web page via mastercard ...) but at the end I got the book and btw. always too the items form Ivan. I hope it is the same way to your orders, then there's the border and freight issue between the EU and Britain.
  10. Everey two years for the gear box oil, I use mosly ELF HTX 740 have never seen any discoloring too no "items" or metal residue, but I am not a rider that uses the clutch often. To the suspension depending of type and travel between 4 to 6 years, Disk brakes and their reservoir and brake lines every second year, together with a very good spooling.
  11. The exhaust flange of the 350 and the 250 might not fit in comparision that the only thing I know, all other components are pretty much the same. I experienced that difference as I bought a much used middle exhaust from a 198a rebuild it an also (luckily) made the exhaust pipe deattachable to exchange the pipe or clean the hole tube inside easily without opening the middle box, to bolt on ny 199b. So you might do there the measurements to determine that it fit. (axis of the 4 exhaust bolts in comoarison to the axis of the flange holes if the middle exhaust section).
  12. "The World is Flat" is a titel of an in English written book from 2005, quite an best seller and since then we know we should look over our own rim of the plate especially if we are wrenching to a motorcycle that was made in Spain and where the factory used much of their normativ basics based on German DIN norm. If I buy things I still try to buy them locally and when I want special stuff I buy it there where the chance of biggest variety and most of them are used is obvious. In this particular case, my hint to you and all the others is to ask the next farming equipment supplier you have in your town, they should have it or can organize them all, from thrust ball bearings to radial pivot bearings and brass bushings, think just about one hey tedder and you find a lot of moving parts that have to work even in the dirtiest and dustiest environment ... where to find them is a question to your phone assistance which I' am not.
  13. Great, hopefully you can ride it again in the next time; always good to hear that old stuff got running again. Did you just got a new ambos or too the tiny spring and ball, then I recommend a very good allen bolt in high tensile steel, to fasten the ambos of the kick starter and a god stop washer, the fastening of the Rotax engine can be delicate.
  14. You -to whatever reason- brought up false arguments and blamed my previous hints about this thread theme. So I responded and prooved my hint and that consequently binned yours. Now you are angry and spinning even more a wheel. I have nothing to add to the technical theme. I am pleased with that conversation anyway as it improves my English conversation skills and I like to learn something everyday
  15. Of course you get them, probably not in your limited view of the world I don't know why you are posting this false information and believe me I don't want to know either. First we call bearings that are custom made "Zeichnungslager" and in Germany and I think in most other countries too it is possible to get them (You might google them) even just one. Now to the bearings of the steering steem which are called in Germaan "Axiallrillenkugellager" or "KT-Lager" and fare very common and found everywhere especially too from SKF or FAG and the other brands, here even with sizes and drawings an so on: https://www.sturm-kugellager-shop.de/rillenkugellager/axial-rillenkugellager/kt../1682/axial-rillenkugellager-kt-25/dlg100/25?c=469 And here you gEt them, sadly right now sold out, one for just 5,90 € without tax and shipping! https://www.sturm-kugellager-shop.de/rillenkugellager/axial-rillenkugellager/kt../1682/axial-rillenkugellager-kt-25/dlg100/25?c=469 And too in the opposite to what you stated in your post, as lower the movement of a bearing as more important it is that the bead of the bearing is of very hard material, as if the balls are only moving a little the force is not distributed evenly and thus put even more stress the bead as at a really rotating bearing. So here again you are sadly a bit too limited in your thinking or as we say "Hochmut kommt vor dem Fall", (haughtiness comes before the event). As an explanation you might look up this page too, even in English albeit a German www page of a German Axialrillenkugellager manufacturer: https://www.kuepper.eu/en/singel-direction-thrust-ball-bearing-kt-bearing.html
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