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About max

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    SherpaT / Beta Gara

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  1. Thanks Bondy - I'll give that a go. Cheers, Max
  2. Hi guys, Can someone please remind me the standard settings - pilot jet / mixture screw AND idle / throttle stop screw - for the Amal carb on a 250cc model 150 sherpa It is on standard jets. Thanks very much. Max
  3. max

    painting top end

    +1 on the blast, wash, dry paint process. Also, PJ1 paint does not need to be heat cured - it cures to a durable finish overnight. Cheers, Max
  4. Hola! That looks great too. Is that a Sammy Miller pipe? Do you have a contact for the alloy mud guards? Cheers, Max
  5. I will do - i just need to get over the paranoia of scratching it for the first time!! The tank took me 2 blooming weeks of prep and paint alone!
  6. Thanks very much for the kind comments. The fenders were plastic, not alloy, for the 1975 model 150 that this is. I have photo's of the bike as it left the dealer. The filler cap on the UK spec 'Homerlite' tank is also original and as it was produced in the UK. This bike was so original before i started the strip down that every single bolt was still the original Bultaco stamped items. I have moved the speedo to the centre of the handle bars - The Renthal bars with the brace make it s very tight fit, but it is now OK. The only mod is the new improved Bultaco UK electronic ignition from Dave Renham. Apart from that every part (excluding rubber parts, gaskets etc) is original. I plan to road register and MOT the bike, so i can go for a blasts on sunny afternoons and play around. I have more modern Beta Zero and GasGas TXT to play on in the mud and also sportsbikes (GSXR 1000 road bike and GSXR 750 track bike) that keep me very busy. I'm sorry to say this one may be a bit of a garage queen, for now anyway! Cheers, Max
  7. Hi all, Just thought I'd share some before and after images of my Sherpa project bike i have been slowly bringing back to better than new condition. Everything has been restored , re-finished or rebuilt - including all frame parts, cycle parts and engine. It now has electronic ignition too which is great. Apart from the powder coat and re-chrome it has all been done with my very novice hands, and has been a bit of a labour of love! The bike was my fathers from nearly new and has covered under 300 miles, so was ripe for a resto job. The first photos show the condition it was in when i dragged it out from the back of the garage and the latter photos show it as it is now. I'm very happy with the result, let me know what you think. Cheers, Max
  8. max

    gasket sealant

    Any flexible/silicone based oil resistant gasket sealant should be fine - e.g. Loctite or Hylomar Bigger question is why is is leaking in the first place? Can you not see the affected area? Have you tried gently sanding surfaces with wet&dry by sticking wet&dry to PERFECTLY FLAT surface (bench or table top) and gently sanding the mating surface on it? Also inspect the engine casing side closely for any burrs or left over pieces of gasket that could be causing the leak.
  9. max

    Rear wheel

    I've not had much luck with finding people to reline the hubs apart from Bultaco UK's contact. Exchange steel lined (not chrome as original) hubs are
  10. max

    Fork Seals...

    Hi Andy, I am just about to tackle the same job, so all very useful info. Can i check, did you remove each full leg (stantion and fork bottom) from the yokes, or can you remove the fork bottoms with the stantion still in place to change the seals? Thanks, Max
  11. Thanks for all your replies guys. Today I removed the carb, blew through all jets with the compressor (again), inspected the throttle body and slide (which both looked fine), re-fitted and re-set the pilot screw (fully in and 1.5 turns out). I kicked it over, blipped the throttle a few times and it returned to idle fine - nice and quick and nice and clean. My guess is that it was a partially blocked pilot, hence the slow return to idle, but i am just glad it is running properly again. Thanks all for your input. Max PS - it seems PJ1 (Satin Engine Case Paint, not their exhaust paint) is the best paint for bully exhausts, if you don't have the facility for high temp curing!
  12. Hi Tom, Not doing bad thanks mate... apart from a frustrating day in the garage. One step forward and all that... How are you - have you re-claimed your garage yet? I would definitely give powder coating a go, but am trying to stay as close to original as possible. I think my issue is not letting the VHT paint cure/bake on the bike? I'll re-paint and keep my fingers crossed. Cheers, Max
  13. Hi Woody, It is still running the original Amal carb. The bike has only done a genuine 187 miles would you believe (it has been my fathers since new) I am thinking it may well be the carb/slide body. Would it help to give the slide a light rub with 1400 (or higher) grit wet and dry to make sure it is as smooth as can be, do you think? Or is there anything you can use to lubricate the motion slightly? I am happy to buy a new slide, but wonder if it is worth trying anything first? AND any suggestions or tips for VHT paint for exhaust? Thanks all. Max
  14. Jetting is standard and this problem was not apparent before the engine strip and rebuild. Somehow, it doesn't feel like a jetting problem.
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