andy198712

OK so. -unscrew the caps/collars -slide them off the top of the forks -remove dust seals -clean out -remove the metal C clip -turn upside down and use a drift to remove them like you would a wheel bearing -clean out -fit new seals with the spring bit facing the bottom when fitted to the bike -use the old seal to rest on top and tap the new one home -replace the C clip -i lightly greased the clip -refit dust seal, i greased under mine -refit to bike and screw on...... jobs a gooden hope that helps anyone with this one year of forks lol the first one took a while, the second was 5 minutes cheers for your help guys

your a star! will give it a go

http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/text/topic/69349-1.html found that, seems like my collar bit does come off, just a case of getting them out now.....

good luck? lol thats worrying ahhhh yes i've seen it done like that, but this set of forks has the seal in the removable collar.... think i should remove the top cap and undo that top bit then try slide hammering it out (to best discribe it) ? i'll ring GG UK tomorro see what they have to say about it all...

my fork seals have been leaking for a while on the TXT270.... brought some new ones and went to fit, now my year has a large collar that unscrews and there contained in this...... i can see them but really struggling to remove them? i removed the C clip, now do i just bang them out like wheel bearings? as i've nearly distroyed one seal so far..... also fitting the new ones? cheers oh and how am i ment to get the front pipe off this bike? one bolt is hidden behind the bend, and its too tight to get the allen key in lol do i just cut up an allen key?

Bad idea, poking anything hard through a pilot jet will effect the size, soak it in thinners or something like that then blow through.

in what way is it broken?

do you struggle with the cable lengths with higher bars?

i'm personally not all that convinced by the tubliss things....

Yeah it does tend to peel off the knobbles, but not till its 2 thirds worn which is good time to change anyway... I prefere them to enduro tyres as they spin up too much. Cheers for the info there, are any makes softer then others? I'll count my spokes tomorro to make sure I get it right but cheers for the heads up there! The rim on my txt270 takes a lot of hits and isn't dented, was quite suprised tbh, but I guess its a light bike too. Once again thanks very much Is it wrong I wanted to anodise the rim before fitting

this is where i'll raise a few eye brows...... my ktm was a 450 exc, now its 540.... but i use X11 rears on it i get partworn cheap.....they actually last well, drift a bit on the road, but never loose grip!!! thats what i thought about a rimlock.... so can any rim be tube less if you install the right tape and seal it well..? or is partly down to the shape and the lip ect? cheers for the reply mate, i havnt really found many places selling just rims...

Hi all, Just wondering where can i find a rear tube less rim? looking at lacing it to my KTM to have a tubeless rear...... also do you think i'll get away without a rimlock? as there isnt one on my trials bike.... cheers guys

cheap part worn X11

clock wise is more, anti is less, like a screw thread

i'd measure it tbh.... then ask a dealer. one thing i will say is you need to buy the kit, it may cost more then odd bearings, but it will last alot longer as the spacers wear. mine lasted a good 6k miles before getting any play, then replaced with the kit and still going for 3k on and off road use