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feetupfun

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About feetupfun

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    1963 to 1981

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  1. feetupfun

    Crank centering

    Another thing that can help with this sort of work is to modify the ID or OD of the old main bearings enough so that after fitting the new conrod, you can do any test-fitting of the crankshaft with ease at room temperature
  2. feetupfun

    Crank centering

    DickyM it's the centreing of the conrod in the bore that is important rather than equalising the side clearances on the crankwheels. You may not need a shim to achieve this.
  3. Because there is more torque on the clutch in the higher gears
  4. feetupfun

    BETA USD FORKS

    You got me wondering if I was imagining USD forks on my friend's bike so I went looking for photos. Here are a couple of photos of my friend's 2001 Rev 3 270 showing the USD forks that it came with (the bike that you have been told none were brought into Australia). Photos taken in 2004 or 2005 when the Queensland Trials Titles were held near Dayboro. From memory the first owner was Kris Hammond. Second owner (shown in photo) was Ken Cutmore.
  5. feetupfun

    BETA USD FORKS

    A friend of mine had your model Rev 3 with USD forks and it developed more sag than normal and he discovered that the fork spring was broken. If yours is a 270 it might even be the same bike. My memory is telling me that those forks were standard on the first model Rev 3 and were optional on the second model Rev 3. Yours looks like the second model which I would call the 2001 model. This is what the first model Rev 3 looks like
  6. I don't think it will have an oil filter. If it's like the Jotagas bikes I've seen they are two strokes. Normally only 4 strokes have oil filters.
  7. Wow that's amazingly original after all the years. Good find and great to see. Thanks for the photo. The absence of external damage and wear makes me think it must have been parked up somewhere for almost its entire life so far. The tyres look like 1970s type. I bought a TY250 in this sort of condition in 1994 and was amazed at how unused and undamaged it was at the time but that was 26 years ago so yours is even more surprising.
  8. The A model fits yours and the BCDE covers are all the same. Either cover suits either flywheel on any engine. They changed the cover design to make the motor look slimmer after initial criticism of the width of the A model engine and also to help keep the bike at the same weight despite the heavier flywheel. The BCDE cover is magnesium while the A cover is aluminium. Other weight saving changes to keep the weight the same with the later, heavier flywheel were aluminium brake arms, magnesium clutch cover and oil pump cover and an aluminium fuel tank. If you do get an A model magneto cover, a BCDE model shift lever will probably not suit the shape of the A model cover.
  9. and another one https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1974-YAMAHA-TY250-TY-250-Stator-Cover-Mag-Cover/362581712843?epid=1681129835&hash=item546b8ddfcb:g:2DoAAOSw~Tdch9zo
  10. and another one https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1974-YAMAHA-TY250-TY-250-Stator-Cover-Mag-Cover/362581714795?epid=1681129835&hash=item546b8de76b:g:618AAOSwrERch93A
  11. Yes that's the A model cover. At times I've seen multiples of them advertised concurrently on eBay. Here's another one https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/74-YAMAHA-TY250-TY-250-A-OEM-LEFT-CASE-STATOR-COVER/202894542533?epid=1681129835&hash=item2f3d7506c5:g:Xx4AAOSw6PpeNMHi
  12. If you are unable to find that cover, the A model cover fits and they are in plentiful supply
  13. Those look like standard Cota 247 forks so they could be called Montesa or Betor-Montesa forks. I suspect were probably made under contract in the Betor factory in Spain for Montesa. They are slightly different internally to Bultaco Betors and OSSA Betors of the same era and the sliders are unique to the Cota 247. Ceriani brand forks were made in Italy but forks like those on your 247 are also known as Ceriani type forks because the internal design was originally developed by Ceriani and later copied by other fork manufacturers.
  14. Yes the brass piece. I bent it about 45 degrees which was enough. You know that even if you did break it, it could be replaced with a piece of brass or copper tubing. Those vent fittings are just glued into the body of the carby. Another consideration is that the carby has a bowl vent on each side so it probably makes no practical difference if one of them is blocked off
  15. I think I just bent the part the hose goes onto to give clearance. No money required
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