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feetupfun

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About feetupfun

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  • Bike
    1963 to 1981

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    Gladstone Australia
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  1. I just remembered how much I liked that avatar
  2. Could indicate air ingress and if so, most likely the magneto side crank seal. Could also indicate a sticky throttle cable or slide. In neutral the revs should go straight to idle RPM when the twistgrip is released.
  3. The only difference I can see is that chappo's frame has sidecover mounts that look like M198/199/198A/199A while the photo from the book looks like it would suit something earlier.
  4. Doesn't matter if it is a 348 or a 349, a 26, 27 or 28mm carby would be ideal. If you post up a photo of the carby someone will be able to ID it. Same for the bike and motor. The engine number is definitely a 348 and frame is likely to be a 349 but 349 frames change over time, hence the photo.
  5. I have a few sets of Magical fork springs in use and love them but am having trouble trying to find where to buy more from since Yamaha-Majesty.com has been incorporated into In- Motion
  6. feetupfun

    Tire musings

    There's nothing wrong with asking noob questions. Rear tubeless trials rims have a groove that the bead pops into like a tubeless car rim and tyre does. The beads are so tight in those grooves that you usually need to break the bead with a special tool or using a bench vice or similar. It's a very reliable design. The original rim on your bike will have a sealing band for the rim well. These are rubber and get hard with age and the rim surface can become rough from corrosion. If it leaks there you can always try a new sealing band or use a tube. If your wheel is holding air now and you don't disturb the sealing band while you have the tyre off, it will probably work fine with the new tyre. Yes good idea not to take the old tyre off till you have a new tyre ready to go on. If it was me and the old tyre is really old (they have manuf date on them) I would have a new sealing band and a nice lightweight tube on hand too.
  7. feetupfun

    Tire musings

    I ride 1970s off-road bikes. I bought a Tubliss for using with tubeless rear trials tyres on tube type rims on trials bikes but when I weighed the Tubliss and found it was heavier than a tube, I continued with my normal method of trimming the beads on the tubeless tyres to fit the tube type rims. The $160 Tubliss is still sitting on my shelf Your Rev3 should have a tubeless type rear rim and if the rim sealing band is still sealing, it will work fine with a tubeless trials tyre without a tube or a Tubliss. Some people have problems with the sealing band not sealing against the rim and end up using a tube to avoid air loss. Once a tubeless tyre is seated on a tubeless type rim, it usually stays put but there was a problem a few years ago with IRC rears in this regard.
  8. I bought the right size perforated steel tube for my 348 in the form of a go-kart muffler core and it was very economical. I didn't need to curve it though
  9. It's a non-standard hole made for the ignition cables to protect them a lot better than the standard hole which is underneath. If the cables come out the hole underneath, they tend to get squashed between the bashplate and the engine casings
  10. Handling will be lighter with the WES and the sound is a bonus. Same for the TYoffroad TY175 exhaust. Lots lighter and sounds great
  11. Now I'm really confused 😵. I was thinking that Kiwis call them Jandals, a shortened version of Japanese sandals
  12. Yes the 213 is a wonderful thing but does take a serious kick to start. I wouldn't be game to try in jangles which I suspect are the same thing as flipflops/jandals/thongs
  13. The first models of Alpina (85 and 99) have a fairly short seat but the models after them are fine for two-up riding for two people depending on how big their bottoms are. No Alpina is what you would call powerful but the 325cc and 350cc models have enough suitable pulling power for two-up riding. I don't know what "shes quite up for a scooter" means
  14. Normal thing to do. Can use most any automotive points ignition condenser. The important thing is to get a reasonably fresh one. If you go for a new condenser made in 1975 it may not be any better than what you are replacing. I usually look for one with a long tail and a nice mounting lug to make it easy to fit and connect up. I've had success with Bosch products made for old Mercedes cars
  15. I have an array of 1970s twinshock trials bikes because except for two, they are the bikes I wanted when I was a teenager but couldn't afford. The exceptions are the TY175B which I did own at the time and a 250 Godden Majesty which is a bike I didn't even know existed until about 1995.
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