bw123

Are you talking about the transmission oil drain/fill? Yes, I did see some on both. Some fine stuff is normal I think for wet clutches that wear on friction disk/metal plate interface. I got the S3 low-compression head installed. Easier to kick and start, even in gear. I don't have to hunt for the just-past-TDC point anymore. Just get the pedal to the top at the hardest point and kick hard back and down. Before I would hurt my knee sometimes when it hung up at TDC. Another thing that helped with starting is new plug and especially a new iridium version. For jetting, I haven't changed anything, but I don't kick too many times with the choke on. Two max then turn it off. Usually fires up on the next kick or two. When hot I find that opening the throttle a bit during the kick helps a lot. I still have a bit of popping noise at low RPM that I think is normal. Also, the idle seems to hang and take a bit to come down after revving, but I am also thinking that is also normal for these bikes as compared to an enduro 2-stroke.

Gotcha. Yes, I loosened everything, including the steering stem, and got it all lined up no problem. Still looking for input on how often this happens with trials bikes and whether I can ride without that brace/bracket in place. My enduro bike has no such thing and takes much harder hits, but the triples are beefier. Also, wondering if that brace is aluminum so that it is sacrificed instead of damaging the forks or whether I can replace it with a steel one.

Triple clamps also hold the forks in place/alignment. The fender bracket is toast. It was pretty badly bent and it is brittle aluminum so couldn't really bend it back without it breaking.

I had a minor mishap and my 2022 gas gas txt 300 fell on its side. There seems to have been some torque between the wheel and bar as it tweaked the forks such that they were not perpendicular anymore. This also bent the front fender brace where it attaches to the forks. Is this pretty common or did I have something loose? Can I ride without that brace/bracket in place (no worries about no fender, thinking structurally)? Is that brace aluminum so that it is sacrificed instead of damaging the forks or can I replace it with a steel one?

Thanks, for the tip on the SC. I am at 600 feet elevation and about 70 degrees F right now.

New to trials and setting up a low-hours used 2022 gas gas txt 300. It has factory jetting, JJH clip 4, 125 main, 48 idle, float parallel with base. Carb cleaned and checked out. Sometimes hard to start and can foul the plug if choke used too many times/kicks. Also, sometimes it will try to start cold without the choke. This makes me think it is too rich on the idle jet. I tried adjusting the air screw to maximize idle speed after setting the idle a bit high. This was not very conclusive honestly, but it seemed like the air screw wanted to be at least 2 turns out, so also pointing to a smaller idle jet. What are people usually running on these engines? Are they usually run a bit rich to maintain low end power? Additionally, I ordered and am going to install S3 lower compression head to help with starting and tame the power for learning a bit. Will this affect jetting? Any other recommendations appreciated!

New to trials and setting up a used 2022 gas gas txt 300. Any recommendations on where to set the shifter height? Right now it is set well above the peg height.