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unospeeder

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  1. The injector was just dirty from 13 years of use. The injector is the same as in some Honda cars so it's fairly easy to locate and I doubt subject to any ethanol issues. I ordered a few replacement o-rings after that cross referencing the part number and finding a match in the general auto parts.
  2. I had a 2006 4RT with the same issue. The fuel injector was partially blocked. I pulled the injector and cleaned it with some carb cleaner as that is all I had at the moment and wanted a running bike. I was lucky that the injector o-ring was in good shape so I was able to reuse it. The bike was spot on after the cleaning and, to this day, is still running like a top.
  3. Count me in if it is still available. Thanks sierramotorcyclesupply@ridgeback.us
  4. My 2022 Factory ejected it's countershaft seal...talk about using up gear oil 🙄
  5. https://www.thetelegraphandargus.co.uk/news/9536499.silsden-trials-bike-rider-dies/
  6. You can see the reservoir in the Jitsie vid from Andorra @ the 12:30 mark
  7. Looks like a remote reservoir to me. There is a guy here in the states that customizes Ohlins and the reservoir are much different in size. What I am really interested in the clutch slave cylinder. I have heard about 30mm clutch slave cylinders for Evos but I can't find squat online. Saw one in a a Trials Tube vid but no info for sourcing. The gold anodized color is the giveaway I believe. Anyone have info on where these can be sourced? **Update** I found the 30mm slave in a few places like here --> https://betatruebaonline.com/trial/13612-cuerpo-bombin-embrague-compl-evo-d30mm.html I have no idea if this was a "factory" part sometime in the past. Bigger is always better so I can only assume a 3mm increase would help with modulation ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
  8. unospeeder

    Bars...

    I am running Renthal fatbars (673 -100) on my 2021 Evo. Dimensionally the 673 -100 are basically identical to the stock Reikon, on the 2021s, with the exception of being a tad bit wider.
  9. @totty79 is correct. Between the bearing and the bottom clamp sits the part in question. It is an aluminum washer about 2mm thick with a groove for the accompanying o-ring. #6 in the parts diagram makes it look like a cup but it is not.
  10. Thanks. I will have to pull the existing triple and get a better look at what is fitted. I didn't have a lot of time and when I realized the lower bearing was not going to come off the steerer easily I stopped messing with it.
  11. Who can tell/show me what the lower steering bearing assembly actually looks like on a 2020 Evo? I have a factory triple to replace the stock triple and I have the correct bearing and a few other pieces and parts. I put the factory top clamp on the bike already and plan on installing the lower bearing on the factory lower and then completing the swap. When I had the triple out of the bike the lower steering bearing assembly did not look like the parts diagram in that there was no "F/FORK ALUMINIUM RING" below the bearing (#6) at least nothing that looked like the diagram. Also #7, the "OIL SEAL 34,60.39,84.2,62" was not discernible either. The photo shows what I have parts wise. If it were my Montesa I would assume the larger flanged washer went below the bearing on the steer and that would be that. Cheers
  12. That is the theory I am working with. The bike is an 06 that I picked up in 09 with very limited hours. I rode it on trails for a few years then it sat dormant, with the exception of 2 x times a year driveway ride. Last September I started riding it in trials and it has seen 85 hours since then. Given the appearance of the shaft logic holds that the seal(s) had deteriorated and hardened up.
  13. Unfortunately I could source all the parts in time for a trip this weekend with the exception of the shaft. Since the shaft has no scoring I decided to replace the oil and water seal and the bearing. Pulling the primary is not that much work so if it starts to leak again I will just do it all over including the shaft.
  14. Yeah. Once I dug in it was clear that pulling the primary off was the easier way to go. Bike is an 06 but with super low hours for a bike that age. The impeller shaft looks good.
  15. A quick search revealed nothing so here goes. Anyone had any luck replacing the water pump seal without splitting the case on a 4RT or the like? I hear rumors that is has been done but find nothing to back that up. I have the gaskets and such to split the case but I also have a trip pending this coming week and not a lot of time. I am hoping to be able to do the short fix then split the case and replace the oil seal as well once back from the trip.
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