jrsunt

Is it the PHBH carb? If the mixture screw is on the cylinder side of the carb it should be "in" to lean and "out" to richen. I think we used to run them at about 2.25 turns out, but that was on the PHBL carb. When the screw is on the air box side, then it's as bilks described. It's been around 13 years since I messed around with those carburettor thingys, so I could be wrong.

That's the correct iridium. It may be worth trying the 5 if it doesn't get to stretch it's legs very often. I'm using the std filler cap with an open tube to vent.

I'd take the aftermarket breather off and try without it. The 4rt will soot plugs if it's not warmed up properly and the throttle blipped too much. As far as I know NGK don't make a cr6eh9 iridium equivalent, they do a 7 and a 5. I've been using the 7 iridium for a while, purely for the Scot as it tends to misfire when it's thrashed to within an inch of its life. When we rode abroad for the Europeans the factory lads would give us cr5eh9's.

I don't know, I've had a quick search but can't find it. I'll try again

Some time ago there was a thread running about throttle bodies going past The lock stop, which was fixed by a simple washer. Perhaps you're unlucky enough to have broken 2.

How about the bank angle sensor? Dodgy connection to the plug cap

Only when the s/arm had rubbed through the loom behind the engine. bad earth?

They tick over at 1800rm, so I'm guessing they could pull more than 10k

I can't imagine how many hours it did. 4 ssdts and 6 scotts alone would put at least 120 hours on it. I'd practise 2 times a week for a year or so and I bet there weren't many weekends that I didn't ride from 2006-2009. The bike had oil and filters every 2 months ish, valves were checked and set every 6 months

If you are concerned I'd spend a bit of money now, rather than wait too long and have to spend alot of money. New piston, rings and pin £130 ish, barrell re coat £130, new valves, springs etc probably another 100. If it goes bang then you could be looking at 2k My 2006 had alot of hard hours on it, including several ssdt's, scotts, french 4 days, reeth 3 days, it would have gone for longer but I welded an oil way up which helped kill it

Sledge hammer usually sorts it out...... Make sure you take it off the bike first.

They can be run dry, but a little grease helps keep the cack out. Its probably worth changing the alloy tensioner arm too, they can wear very badly and its likely to have chewed up the rubber orings too. Replace the lot and its goood for another 8. The 315's (possibly up until 2004) used a steel tensioner arm which tended to last longer, which fits straight on.

done

Water does not tend to cause many problems with the 4rt, unless its drowned. As said before, the connectors are pretty well sealed. Check the earth under the ht coil and check for a spark. If no spark, link out the bank angle sensor and try again

It's probably the best trial I have ever done, loads of sunshine, cracking sections and no one takes themselves too seriously. Everyone's there to have fun

The linkage bearings are 15x21x12 from a bearing trader.

I certainly don't p*** around it! I push myself very, very hard and the bike to within inches of it's life. I agree reliability and finding a good pace to go at all day is the key. Plenty of bike time leading up to the event probably helps too. Before last years event I hadn't ridden since April, and it knocked the **** out of me. Sounds like you are having a go dorian???

New tires back and front, around 7psi front and upto 5 in the rear depending on ground conditions. New high quality chain and tensioner pad as the mont will snap a cheapie in the day! Other than that its just standard preparation. Some people run a moose, others tape everything up to help prevent water ingress, its down to personal preference and confidence in yourself and machine.

Never heard of one before. Is it noticeably different to ride?

2nd is pretty hard to keep up with on std gearing, 1st is my preffered gear for pretty much everything whether its wet and slippy or dry and big. There's always plenty of torque and speed if desired. You have to be aggresive to get the best from the mont, let the suspension and chassis do its job.

The best gear for the ssdt is something WARM and WATERPROOF. Take a spare set too.

Caroline Sandiford really pushed the 4rt in the early days, there were plenty competing in the British champs, nationals and all the other major events and we all did well. Dabill, Hemmingway, James Lampkin, myself and Boyd Webster could all be at the sharp end. After the demise of Sandifords the Montesa dealer network has been p*** poor, without a trials specific importer to establish a new team and push the product to the next generation or riders. Nothing to do with the bike, but lack of support from the Honda infrastructure . Hopefully with the new dealers being appointed and some more interest in the trials market Honda may start to push their great product again

It'd be nice to have time to ride 1 bike never mind 2!

The Mont holds 2.1 litres, it's about 28miles to chairlift in the ssdt, which it does on 1 tank full, even on 3psi in the rear and ridden flat out. It could easily do 60+mpg.

You have the general idea, and a good starting point. It looks to me like you are using more momentum than technique to get over it. Slow the whole move down, literally from a standstill when you start. Your point of contact with your front wheel could do with been lower and that will give more kick from the suspension to catapult you onto the top.