jrsunt

The Mont will do 25 miles of roadwork on 2.1l of fuel being ridden flat out on std gearing . Std gearing will push 70mph on soft tyres. With the correct gearing, maybe 34 or36 on the rear and a set of trail tyres it would be an absolute blast!

When I caught billy he seemed to be having bike issues, possibly boiling. He was pushing very very hard. If he slows down he will be very fast and certainly one to watch for standard time in the future

cheers andy, felt good, bike was good but 2 flat tires slowed me down too much, but thats the scott. As a rider you dont really notice whats going on, but I did notice the amount of spectators around, seemed more than usual

Big congratulations to Ian, after being so close, for so long, the win was well deserved. well done to Jonny Richardson for standard time again, I'll be fighting you for it again next year! Also a big well done to everyone who got finished. Brilliant event and as always throws up a few surprises.

The cable discs on the oset are pretty weak, kids would use hydraulics better because of a shorter, easier lever pull.

Isolated transformer? Single crack? Is that something to do with the oil filter!!!! Pardon my ignorance, but I'm not up to speed on these new fangled digital bikes. Can you please enlighten me?

ok, I'll give it a check

The boys oset 12.5 24v was charging while I was working on my bike, it's a std oset running yuasa batteries which charges by pluggjng into the bike. Anyway, I was wearing shorts and my leg brushed really, really lightly on the footrest and I could feel the electrical current. When I tried it with the palm of my hand I couldn't feel anything, it could be felt using the back of my hand. Is this normal? If not, what may be causing the problem

Everyone has their own aims for the scott, whether its to reach a certain petrol stop, complete the course, get back in on time, to better last years effort or even to win it. My personal aim is to ride as fsst as i can for as long as i can and get another spoon, (need to get a few more to beat the old fellah)!

The tank shouldn't build pressure, the breather on the filler cap should allow the gasses to escape. Check the valve is working correctly, by blowing back through the cap while its upright.

and while we are at it, lets make marathons only 10 miles so everyone can finish in 2 hours.......

The 2001 mudguards will be a fortune now and difficult to get hold of, you didn't get much change from£200 back then! Any 315 guards will fit. White from the 2004 bike seem readily available at decent money

Good things come to those who wait...... apparently. Use the clutch as a slipper clutch to counteract engine braking

I've not heard of sheering the woodruff key or jumping a tooth before, but there's always a first. What age is the bike and do you have the workshop manual to hand? There are a few marks on the flywheel, do any of those allow for alignment?

someone will probably know, and I bet they're not a million miles off using the current showa fork settings. The settings should be listed in the workshop manual, easy enough to pick them up off ebay.

check valve clearances. Too tight and they are a pig to start

This is a long shot, but, how long was it in bits for? If the stator and throttle body have been disconnected for some time, maybe a week, then the throttle body will need re programming as it can loose its memory. If you know anyone with another 4rt, try your throttle body on theirs.

If it was running before you took it apart, its likely to be something simple. The fuel pump connection has caught me out before, as has the earth under the ht coil. The rear shock has rubbed through the loom before. The only component failure I've experianced has been the bank angle sensor

sanded or shot blasted. If you are to re anodise them they will shot blast them anyway.

if you enjoy your trail riding then a big engine would be better, a 4 stroke would be perfect. A 125 can be difficult to ride as they have to be screamed to make them do anything useful. The montesa and beta 4 bangers both produce a smooth strong power and bucket loads of torque and they really shift when you press the go button. Unless your riding in dusty conditions then cost of running isn't much more than a 2 stroke. Engine rebuids tend to be few and between in the uk, especially with the mont. Regular oil and filter changes are a must, as is checking the valves. BUT, when they do go wrong they are expensive. Buy as new as you can afford.

no, not yet! Electric bikes are great for the kids, but the adult ones need a lot more development before they'll win me over. I hope ktm do make a trials bike, I'm sure they'll sell plenty, be it electric or petrol.

Don't post again unless you've got something sensible to say!!!

You're right in using the aggressive approach as they do need to be ridden hard in mud. If the mud is deep or without a bottom to provide some sort of traction the mont will never go through it by making it spin, as you would on the raga. Its difficult to adapt to riding in the mud, but once you find the technique it'll become easier to practice. The best way is to avoid the muddy trials altogether! Once you have the bike at full chat and spinng, at the point of when you think all hope is lost and your not going to get up there, shut off with your weight over the back and it WILL grip, wanting to stand you on the back wheel. You've then got to feed the power back in to carry on that momentum. The 4rt grips on the overrun. Its tricky learn, but satisfying when you get it right. it will take time, a lot of time but stick with it.

Weigh each wheel on the bathroom scales. Try locate some old lead, possibly from a local builder, offer him some money as its worth £1 per kilo in scrap. You can then smelt it back down into casted shapes to fit neatly in the sump guard. Dont breath in the fumes though!

Thats what Ewan Mcgregor should have used for doing "the long way round".