jrsunt

There aren't alot of places to easily meet support, crossing the road on the way to underbanks is a good opportunity early on, then its probably onto surrender where support is always welcome, then a good hours wait then onto bypass, again support is much welcome after doing one of the toughest hours ever on a troals bike. The next place would be whaw bridge then over to bridge end on the barnard castle road. After that we're on our way home and not many accessible places to meet, best would be reels head or hurst and then hopefully coming back up the start finish field. Have fun!!!!

A big thanks to Mark at H&D Racing for brilliant service, to go beyond what is expected. Top service, quality products. A must for anyone needing some bling snd performance products.

On the subject of drilling the airbox, To try solve the air issue I cut away the plastic top that sits on top of the filter, leaving only the rim and 4 bolt holes to secure the filter. This worked a little at altitude but completely ruined the running at normal altitudes. It may be worth a try, but get yourself a new filter top before hand. No need for a battery drill, a hack saw blade does just fine.

If you look on your cylinder head cover there is a breather pipe, trace it and it ends up in your airbox! Remove from airbox and blank the hole off with silicone or a bung. Put the breather pipe in your sumpguard. Its best removed from your airbox, as if you fall off and the bike continues to run whilst upside down, you will find your engine oil in your airbox. it may also be the bank angle sensor playing up, they have been problematic in the past.

To increase airflow, remove the flame retarder from the standard filter. The jitsie filter works even better. To help the bike in hot conditions we used to run a CR5EH-9 spark plug. This did help with the spluttering when it was exceptionally hot. If you want a more preventative option than a fix, go for the larger capacity radiator which keeps the overall engine temmperature down. Other than programming the throttle body, there isn't much you can do on the electrics side. Certainly worth doing the filter and plug as it plagued me doing the european rounds, although that was back on the 2005 bike, but I don't think much has changed since then. It may also be worth removing the head breather pipe from the airbox just to get that little bit extra clean air into the system.

Specific performance motorcycle engine oil is good for the clutch as it is designed to run in wet clutches, unlike the atf fluids, I use 5w30 motul 300v factory line, not cheap but works very well.

It was not tdc on the compression stroke, I've had the same problem before. Find tdc using a wire inserted into the spark plug hole, looking for the rocker arms moving and looking for the marks the flywheel. Its not as simple as it makes out in the manual.

It didn't work, it was just a stop go switch, couldn't be feathered or used for any resistance. The motor itself felt strong and quite progressive though.

I had a ride on it at the end, its got potential. Just needs a proper working clutch and it'll be pretty good.

Time limits work well in the wtc and the btc, but at club level it is often hard to get 12 observers for the day, never mind trying to find another 12 willing people to do stop watch duties. Alow stops for 1 mark stop with foot down 5

There is packing in the silencer, at the front pipe end it is a very dense material which tends not to burn out, the rest of the silencer body is a more conventional packing material. Probably worth packing it while you've got it apart. Use a good quality heat resistant silicone to seal it together. Normal silicone will burn out.

Motul 300v or similar bike branded oil 5w30 in gearbox and engine, if its good enough for 100+bhp superbikes shoving bucket loads of torque through a wet clutch then its more than good enough for a 4rt. Used it in all my clutches for the last 9 years, only ever replaced 1 clutch pack. Perhaps elf had some arrangement with honda to recommend their product for x amount of years, what does it recommend in the CR or XR manuals?

Excellent putoline website

Does the cycle not go: TDC to BDC inlets open BDC to TDC on compression, all valves shut TDC to BDC on power, all valves shut BDC to TDC exhaust open TDC on compression = every 4th

You'll find compression on every 4th rotation of the flywheel with the T showing in the timing hole. Hold a piece of electrical wire into the spark plug hole, feeling for piston at TDC and checking the valvues for movement. Keep repeating the process until you are happy with tdc on compression and T in the timing hole. Get someone to help as an extra pair of hands is useful. The tricky bit is setting the clearances correctly as the feeler guage does not go in level and tends to snag quite a bit. Take your time with it all, they're not impossibe to do. First time took me hours trying to sus the tdc thing.

As far as I can remember they are a 32005 but cant remember the letter after (possibly F), not sure tho, so dont go ordering some without getting 1 measured! Many other bikes use the 32005 but the letter makes the monts hard to find and more expensive. They are a honda specific part. Outside diameter 47mm, inside 26mm. Its probably easier and quicker to get genuine honda.

Link the 2 outside wires together, there's 3 in total. I think its red/white and the green, but its definitely the outside wires and blank the middle (possibly white) wire off. The angle sensors were troublesome on some early models, not allowing the bike to start. Think they're ok on later bikes, but taking it off and moving the relay directly behind the shocker to the head stock under the tank (the wire comes from there anyway) does tidy that part of the bike up.

The oil comes from the cylinder head breather. Due to legislation, whether its european or japanese, it states that no fluids are to go to ground. To do that they put the breather in the airbox, which is fine until the bike is running upside down or on its side and it fills your airbox with engine oil. Disconnect the pipe from the airbox, throw away the tank and put the head breather pipe down the side of the radiator into the sump guard

Yeah they run pretty much constanty when they're upto temp. If there's any problems the fan won't cut in and coolant will trickle from the pump cover. It may be worth checking the water pump gear/shaft as they get very scored if its done alot of work. Change shaft, seal and I think 2 bearings.

Standard 10-41. 1st gear for pretty much everything

They grip as well as 2 strokes, its just a different way of finding it. You'll learn a lot on the soft peaty scottish moors. If you give it time, you'll love it.

It comes with the piston if I remember, and wasn't that expensive. Don't forget to pump the old piston out of the cover before you drain the brake fluid or it'll be hard to get out. Craigs motorcycles will get you one.

Check the throttle cable is seated correctly as mentioned above. Also it will be a pig to start if the idle is set too low. Get it bump started again and make sure it has a steady tickover.

If your going to the lengths of stripping the frame, check for cracks around where the footrest hangers bolt on, it can be a weak area if the bike has had a tough time. If they break off, its not an easy fix. Replace oil and filter as already stated, i run Motul 300v 5w30 and use it in the clutch and gearbox. 1ltr will replace both. Probably best to put a new plug in, just to keep her sweet. Other than that ENJOY

The carbon braces can break, but only on big impacts. Instead of the forks twisting in the yolkes as they do with the alloy brace, it'll snap the carbon across the bolt holes. Like I said they only break on big impacts, I've done 2 in 9 years so they're pretty good overall. The case saver is a worth while buy.