Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About barfy

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Previous Fields

  • Bike
    Several Hondas

Profile Information

  • Location
    Berkshire, UK
  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

7,402 profile views
  1. I've seen a thread on here about Connect vs. Caddy, but it wasn't clear if people were talking about the new shape (2013 onwards) Connect or the older shape, Will the new shape long wheelbase (L2) Connect fit 2 bikes and occasionally 3? Thanks
  2. barfy

    Any way of reducing the spring of the clutch?

    People complain about the speed of the 4RT clutch, but I had a go on a TRRS 280 and that seemed very quick action. Anyway, I swapped my steel plates for Apico dimpled plates which make it a bit smoother. As it’s been said on here many a time the specified Elf oil seems to work best as well.
  3. barfy

    Idlling ideas

    Been waiting a few weeks to reply until I was confident in my findings. I bought all new seals for the carburettor and inlets, but it didn’t make much difference. Was going to get the crank seals changed because that was about all that was left to do but before I did that I thought there was nothing to lose by taking out the “tamper proof” block to give it a clean. Under the tamper proof block on the idle jet circuit there was some fluff so I blew it out with the air line. Since then it’s been running great. I’d normally have taken off the carb every trial to give it a clean. Then I’d hope it would run ok for the whole trial. I’ve not taken off for the past 3 trials. I think the action of blowing out the jet holes mush have blown through a less restricted path through the fluff for a sort while. Hopefully sorted, but put this in the thread if someone has a similar problem in the future.
  4. barfy

    kickstart screw

    Not sure about the 2011, but the 2015 is pretty much the same engine and it is normal thread. They do have a tendency to come loose (I’ve lost several) so may have Locktite applied to the threads.
  5. barfy

    Yamaha TY 250 mono

    Like @slack said. I’m the wrong side of the 12st ideal weight for the shock and it bottomed out probably every trial. I drilled a hole offset by 2mm from centre of a 20mm bar. Then drilled out the shock mount on the swinging arm to 20mm and welded it into the hole. I was surprised how much difference 2mm made.
  6. barfy

    Idlling ideas

    Chatting to someone today about why a plug would burn out the electrode and he said he’d only seen it before when the timing was far too advanced. The timing is fixed by the flywheel pickup and CDI isn’t it?
  7. barfy

    Idlling ideas

    @pauls320 Thanks for the advise about the jet block. I’ll see if I can blow it out best I can with the airline, if there is any contamination. There is a dealer in Chesterfield, Derbyshire, England that does all of the gaskets for the PWK and they’re only a few ££. I’ve ordered them this evening. I run the oil at about 90:1 on 98 octane pump fuel, normally BP. I’ve ordered some new plugs at the same time as the gaskets.
  8. barfy

    Idlling ideas

    Thank you @pauls320. Next time I disassemble the carb I’ll take out the never tamper block. I have some tamper proof torque keys. Also I’ll order some new gaskets because they seem quite cheap. I’ve just put it all back together, resealing the inlet and it seemed to be running fine. I also put in a fresh plug to pull it out to see what it looked like for mixture. I thought I’d give it a quick blast up the road where it stopped on me after about 1/2 mile. Then restarted second kick. When I got back I stopped the bike and pulled out the plug. Hopefully I’ve attached a photo to show that it’s running very weak and blown the electrode. It was about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle when it stopped so might indicate I need a bigger main jet but I’ve never seen a plug with a blown electrode.
  9. barfy

    Idlling ideas

    @pauls320 It has a Keihin 28mm carb. I just whipped off the fly wheel cover and there is no signs of any oil, it's git a slight covering of dust but no oil. Also there is no movement on the flywheel; obviously it goes around both ways but there is no in / out, front / back, up / down movement. So unless someone can tell me why I should take the flywheel off, I think that the crank case seal is ok. It wasn't excessively smoking on, I assume that the other crank case seal must be ok.
  10. barfy

    Idlling ideas

    @2stroke4stroke I did give that a bit of a try during the trial, about 1 1/2 turn out and all the way in on the mixture screw, but it made it worse rather than better. I think there must be a slight leak somewhere.
  11. barfy

    Idlling ideas

    I read the recent post from @barfbrianreed62 about his Scorpa not idlling properly and I'm going to have a closer look at the bike tonight, but I thought I'd ask about possible areas to look at first. At the weekend my lads 125 Twenty started to not idle became inconstant when closing the throttle. It's done it a couple of times before and I've given the carb a good clean which has made it better. I'm beginning to wonder if it is hiding another problem, because this is becoming almost every trial. The air filter is washed every trial, including for this weekend. I've not changed the jetting and the mixture screw is at about 3/4 of a turn from being fully in. Are the 125s very susceptible to crap in the carb? Tonight I was going to clean out the carb, clean and reseat the inlet manifold. Pull off the flywheel to look for any signs of oil seepage in the crank case seal. Look up the exhaust outlet for any signs of something iffy in the piston, well make sure it looks shiny. If there anything else that I might want to check?
  12. barfy

    315 fork clams / yokes

    Been away for a few days. I thought so as well @rotors7 and my 4RT has steeper parellel to the headstock yokes. We can’t both be wrong. I suppose my question was “is it a feature of the headstock or the yokes”?
  13. barfy

    315 fork clams / yokes

    Not strictly a Montesa question, but I’m running a Showa 315 front end in my RTL so I can have some affordable front pads. I noticed when I washed the bike yesterday that the yoke / forks seem to be slightly raked compared to the frame header; i.e. not parallel. So I compared to my sons Scorpa 20 and my 2015 4RT which seems to have parellel forks to yokes. Which I assume mean parellel yokes / fork clamps. Do later Montesa’s have parellel yokes / fork clamps? If so does anyone know from what year 315? jstbwondering if it’s a function of the frame header rather than the fork yokes.
  14. barfy

    AJP Front Brake Rebuild

    Got it all together now and it’s working much better. See what you meant @craig10about the lip in the groves. Not so spongy as before although still doesn’t stop as sharp as I’d like. Put in my sons Scorpa Twenty front wheel with the same brake setup and it stops really well so I think the next purchase is a disc. Probably a NG / Scorpa or Dabs disc because they look like they have more braking surface.
  15. barfy

    AJP Front Brake Rebuild

    Thanks guys. I’ll give it a go over the weekend.