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barfy

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Everything posted by barfy
 
 
  1. Changed the throttle body on my 2015 Repsol and it wouldn’t start. Came back to this thread to reset the tickover screw. Whoop, whoop.
  2. Not as hot here, but I use Evans Waterless Coolant because it has a higher boiling point. Meaning if the bike gets hot the coolant won’t evaporate (boil away) so loosing any form of coolant.
  3. barfy

    RTL silencer

    Just for reference if someone is looking in the future, I ordered some 1.5mm 6082 aluminium sheet and it seems to have been welded satisfactorily.
  4. barfy

    RTL silencer

    Hi, I've worn a hole in my silence and found a local guy who is able to weld a plate over the hole. He does custom garden furniture, gates, etc. I've seen some of his aluminium welding which looks good. He also said about making sure to use a aluminium-silicon rather than aluminium-magnesium filler for the best quality weld (doesn't mean that much to me). He said that if I get the aluminium sheet, because he doesn't have any that thin, he'll be able to weld it for me. Looking on the internet, there is so much choice but not sure what to get. What type of aluminium should I get and what thickness? I was thinking 6082 1.5mm thick, but heard that some types of aluminium is more tricky to weld than other types. Would appreciate input from someone who is more knowledgeable.
  5. Thanks. Won’t bother with that idea if Mr Birkett couldn’t make it last. Although it wouldn’t be exposed SSDT conditions, I don’t have access to the same m/c engineering skills he has.
  6. I recall one of the features of the 260 when it was introduced was reduced engine braking. Might have been the age of my 250 (2007 model) when I swapped it for a 260 (2015 model) but the engine also seemed more balanced; didn’t vibrate as much at high revs.
  7. I recall reading somewhere about using a Gas Gas swinging arm in the TY mono back in the day. Am I making it up or was it related to another bike?
  8. barfy

    Evo 4T wiring

    Thanks for the suggestions. I’ve printed the wiring diagram and will give it a go at the weekend.
  9. barfy

    Evo 4T wiring

    I was wondering if anyone has reduced the wiring on the Evo 4T? I was looking to remove the lights (front and rear) to put on a decent number board so I can put on riding numbers rather than wrapping it around the headlight. It struck me that there is a lot of wiring that needs to be tucked out of the way somewhere, so I was going to work through the wiring diagram to look at what I could take out. However, I thought that if someone had some instructions about reducing the wiring it might save an hour or so working it out myself.
  10. I've seen a thread on here about Connect vs. Caddy, but it wasn't clear if people were talking about the new shape (2013 onwards) Connect or the older shape, Will the new shape long wheelbase (L2) Connect fit 2 bikes and occasionally 3? Thanks
  11. People complain about the speed of the 4RT clutch, but I had a go on a TRRS 280 and that seemed very quick action. Anyway, I swapped my steel plates for Apico dimpled plates which make it a bit smoother. As it’s been said on here many a time the specified Elf oil seems to work best as well.
  12. barfy

    Idlling ideas

    Been waiting a few weeks to reply until I was confident in my findings. I bought all new seals for the carburettor and inlets, but it didn’t make much difference. Was going to get the crank seals changed because that was about all that was left to do but before I did that I thought there was nothing to lose by taking out the “tamper proof” block to give it a clean. Under the tamper proof block on the idle jet circuit there was some fluff so I blew it out with the air line. Since then it’s been running great. I’d normally have taken off the carb every trial to give it a clean. Then I’d hope it would run ok for the whole trial. I’ve not taken off for the past 3 trials. I think the action of blowing out the jet holes mush have blown through a less restricted path through the fluff for a sort while. Hopefully sorted, but put this in the thread if someone has a similar problem in the future.
  13. barfy

    kickstart screw

    Not sure about the 2011, but the 2015 is pretty much the same engine and it is normal thread. They do have a tendency to come loose (I’ve lost several) so may have Locktite applied to the threads.
  14. Like @slack said. I’m the wrong side of the 12st ideal weight for the shock and it bottomed out probably every trial. I drilled a hole offset by 2mm from centre of a 20mm bar. Then drilled out the shock mount on the swinging arm to 20mm and welded it into the hole. I was surprised how much difference 2mm made.
  15. barfy

    Idlling ideas

    Chatting to someone today about why a plug would burn out the electrode and he said he’d only seen it before when the timing was far too advanced. The timing is fixed by the flywheel pickup and CDI isn’t it?
  16. barfy

    Idlling ideas

    @pauls320 Thanks for the advise about the jet block. I’ll see if I can blow it out best I can with the airline, if there is any contamination. There is a dealer in Chesterfield, Derbyshire, England that does all of the gaskets for the PWK and they’re only a few ££. I’ve ordered them this evening. I run the oil at about 90:1 on 98 octane pump fuel, normally BP. I’ve ordered some new plugs at the same time as the gaskets.
  17. barfy

    Idlling ideas

    Thank you @pauls320. Next time I disassemble the carb I’ll take out the never tamper block. I have some tamper proof torque keys. Also I’ll order some new gaskets because they seem quite cheap. I’ve just put it all back together, resealing the inlet and it seemed to be running fine. I also put in a fresh plug to pull it out to see what it looked like for mixture. I thought I’d give it a quick blast up the road where it stopped on me after about 1/2 mile. Then restarted second kick. When I got back I stopped the bike and pulled out the plug. Hopefully I’ve attached a photo to show that it’s running very weak and blown the electrode. It was about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle when it stopped so might indicate I need a bigger main jet but I’ve never seen a plug with a blown electrode.
  18. barfy

    Idlling ideas

    @pauls320 It has a Keihin 28mm carb. I just whipped off the fly wheel cover and there is no signs of any oil, it's git a slight covering of dust but no oil. Also there is no movement on the flywheel; obviously it goes around both ways but there is no in / out, front / back, up / down movement. So unless someone can tell me why I should take the flywheel off, I think that the crank case seal is ok. It wasn't excessively smoking on, I assume that the other crank case seal must be ok.
  19. barfy

    Idlling ideas

    @2stroke4stroke I did give that a bit of a try during the trial, about 1 1/2 turn out and all the way in on the mixture screw, but it made it worse rather than better. I think there must be a slight leak somewhere.
  20. barfy

    Idlling ideas

    I read the recent post from @barfbrianreed62 about his Scorpa not idlling properly and I'm going to have a closer look at the bike tonight, but I thought I'd ask about possible areas to look at first. At the weekend my lads 125 Twenty started to not idle became inconstant when closing the throttle. It's done it a couple of times before and I've given the carb a good clean which has made it better. I'm beginning to wonder if it is hiding another problem, because this is becoming almost every trial. The air filter is washed every trial, including for this weekend. I've not changed the jetting and the mixture screw is at about 3/4 of a turn from being fully in. Are the 125s very susceptible to crap in the carb? Tonight I was going to clean out the carb, clean and reseat the inlet manifold. Pull off the flywheel to look for any signs of oil seepage in the crank case seal. Look up the exhaust outlet for any signs of something iffy in the piston, well make sure it looks shiny. If there anything else that I might want to check?
  21. Been away for a few days. I thought so as well @rotors7 and my 4RT has steeper parellel to the headstock yokes. We can’t both be wrong. I suppose my question was “is it a feature of the headstock or the yokes”?
  22. Not strictly a Montesa question, but I’m running a Showa 315 front end in my RTL so I can have some affordable front pads. I noticed when I washed the bike yesterday that the yoke / forks seem to be slightly raked compared to the frame header; i.e. not parallel. So I compared to my sons Scorpa 20 and my 2015 4RT which seems to have parellel forks to yokes. Which I assume mean parellel yokes / fork clamps. Do later Montesa’s have parellel yokes / fork clamps? If so does anyone know from what year 315? jstbwondering if it’s a function of the frame header rather than the fork yokes.
  23. Got it all together now and it’s working much better. See what you meant @craig10about the lip in the groves. Not so spongy as before although still doesn’t stop as sharp as I’d like. Put in my sons Scorpa Twenty front wheel with the same brake setup and it stops really well so I think the next purchase is a disc. Probably a NG / Scorpa or Dabs disc because they look like they have more braking surface.
  24. Thanks guys. I’ll give it a go over the weekend.
  25. Hi, My front brake wasn't working too great so I decided to give it clean and one of the pistons was seized so I bought a seal and piston kit. The new pistons seem to drop in nicely without the seals so hopefully should make for a much better front brake. I recall seeing on here that the seal are kind of wedged shaped and they should go in a specific way. However, looking at the seals they seem to be square. Is there a specific way that the seals or put into the caliper other than with some brake fluid for lubrication? Cheers
 
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