barfy

I use Amal replica levers which are a bit cheaper than Domino. Agree though that the cable condition can make a lot of difference. Keep the cable well flushed with lubricant and replace if it looks kinked or has signs of fraying.

What age RTL is it? On the twin disk model a Montesa 4RT, Sherco, etc. sprocket will fit. I run a 9 to 42 setup but this does need a 1/2 link.

How do you stick in the little grills on the mudguard? I’ve cut some from some 1mm grill material and tried sticking it in with bathroom sealer and duct tape but they work loose during a trial. Seemed to work ok with silicon sealer on my 2007 4RT but not as good on this 2016 model. Being from down south I think it’s worthwhile trying to stop the mud getting into the air box. If you have any photos from the underside of a 2014 or later sowing how to fix the grill that would be perfect.

Thanks Section, I like my bikes to look neat. I hope it distracts the observer for when I have my feet down. Anyway thanks for the advise. It’s all done and although some small bubbles where the crease is in the mudguard under the sticker it looks ok. Well I’m happy with it.

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm good with flat surfaces, but it's the 2 way curvature that is a bit of concern. The mudguard and stickers arrived today, so I'll give it a go on Saturday when I've got some time to take it carefully and can get on the kitchen table. Sounds like I best not ask the wife to give me a hand because it could end in tears. Most probably mine when I've buggered £60 worth of graphics that have gone wrong. Fingers crossed...

So I’m after some advice about putting on a rear mudguard sticker. I’ve got a new mudguard and sticker on the way after breaking the current one at the weekend. From what I’ve read and my thoughts here is what I was going to do: Warm the sticker on the radiator. Wet the mudguard with a solution of water and washing up liquid. Starting at the back put the sticker on using a hair dryer to heat and slightly stretch down the middle of the sticker. Work from the middle to the edge squeezing out the bubbles. Repeat with the seat but without slightly stretching the middle of the sticker.

Whoop, whoop seems to work now. keep up the great work.

Hello Andy, when I visit the main page on my iPad using Safari I get an error page. Not tried it on any other platform Cheers

Been away for a few days so didn’t see the question. I want to say it was from an air cooled YZ250, bit it was a few years ago that I sold the bike. I had all the rebore details on the reciept that went with the bike when I sold it. Although probably not achievable from Australia, I spoke to PJ Motorcycle Engineering in Wolverhampton, England and they said “send it to us and we’ll see what we can do”. I did talk to a couple of other companies who weren’t interested in helping. Since then I’ve used them for doing a few other cylinders which have been much simpler like my RTL and 4RT.

When I had the same problem I took the engine to a 2 stroke specialist who was able to fine a Yamaha that had parts that were close enough. He bored and plated the cylinder to the suit the piston which was a few mm larger and modified the ports to be the same as the original piston. The engine was quiet with loads of compression but I think the exhaust was a bit restricted and flywheel weight too heavy.

Find it difficult to read the diagnosis and understand what “chase the water” means. Anyway, I dropped my 2007 4RT in the water and it wouldn’t start. At the trial I tried draining out the air box etc. Soon as I got it home I took off the throttle body and tank and blew out everything including the electrics. I put in new petrol but it still wouldn’t start, only a very weak spark. Eventually I took the ignition case off which had a few drops of water. I was a bit surprised because the oil was crystal clear when I drained. I figured that because I’d not run it the oil might not have mixed with the water so it wasn’t creamy white. When I put in new oil it started after a couple of reset kicks. Surprised me that just a bit of water in the ignition would stop the bike starting, but as @jimmyl said the Montesa is very clever.

Thanks for the advice. I’ve got an EIX plug on order. We’ll see what difference that makes next weekend.

Thanks for the advice. I was mainly concerned about the smoking and poor starting when it’s hot. It’s not pouring smoke and when starting occasionally it might need the choke especially if it stalls. Although a bit of a rattle compared to a new engine it’s not that bad. I run it on Putoline TT Pro 2 Stroke oil and settled at 90:1 as opposed to the 80:1 because someone commented that it was a bit smokey and probably had too much 2 stroke oil. They reconnected to run it at 100:1, but I though that was a bit weak. My son rarely nails the engine because the majority of sections around here are tight rather than big. Perhaps I’ll try a hotter plug to see it that improves the hot starting when it’s hot.

My son's 2016 125 is a little rattlely, smokes slightly (running it at about 90:1) and poor at starting when it's hot (sometimes stalls). I clean the air filter every trial and carburetor every two or three trials because we live down south where it's often muddy. So I was wondering if it was time to change the rings and small end. I'm used to a 4 stroke where anything like that means new valve seals, rings and small end. I was wondering if there is anything else I should to while doing the work, or if it might be something else.

I had some problems with my 2015 starting so I increase the tickover just slightly. May be about 1/4 of a turn after resetting the ECU (3 full throttle kick) and trying 3 steady kicks. Then repeating the process. I recall it was about 3/4 to 1 turn I eventually increased the tickover. When starting I found it best to leave my hand off the throttle all together until I got used to not moving the throttle when starting. I think it’s a natural reaction to just pump the throttle slightly when kicking the bike. Remember telling someone to stop pumping the throttle when starting a 4RT and he gave me a curse response about “he wasn’t” but you could see that he was.

I had a similar problem on my 4RT. I’d over filled the reservoir which put the brake on when the fluid got hot from the exhaust. Probably the same effect as over adjusting as discribed by Dan.

Just bumping this to the top of the thread to see if the provisional dates are available yet. Want to get some dates in the calendar before the wife fills up weekends with other less important stuff to do with the family.

Excellent forum post Thai-TY with lots of information. Well done.

If you do the Beta clutch modification by taking out the glue between the friction material and replace the oil every four trials it improves the clutch. As Jimmy said I found the anti-judder kit made the clutch less constant and felt like it was slipping when the old got hot. Finally, I use semi-synthetic oil (mainly Shell Helix) because fully synthetic oil often have anti-friction qualities.

You are most welcome.

I don't know if it's used on any other models but the part number is: 43141-KB9-000 I suspect that it's only used on the drum break RTL because the TLR250 shared the same lighter weight wheels. Also I think because of the KB9 number it is specific to the TLR. However, it looks like Dave Silver Spares and CMS Spares have them in stock: http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/parts/by-part-number/partnumber_43141KB9000/ https://www.cmsnl.com/products/cam-rrbrake_43141kb9000/#.WfBqZmiPJaQ

So I've given it a go. Let's see if it holds for the weekend. The insert didn't turn, but I tighten it too hard.

Thanks Oni. Looking at tinernet where to get anaerobic bonding adhesive and they seem to be metal to metal bonding, but this is the metal inset into a plastic tank. Would this still work?

My sons 2016 125 petrol tap is leaking between the tank and petrol tap. I put in a new o-ring seal in but the screw inserts are rotating in the tank. So it is still slightly weeping fuel. Does anyone know how to remove the inserts and / or stop them rotating? Cheers

I see tha In Motion are doing a Montesa inlet that look similar. If you search eBay for number 222541664138. I'm sure if you drop Dave a message he'll give you the size. Or have you tried Richard Allen's used spares http://www.allensusedtrialsspares.co.uk/contact-us/4560008730.