barfy

I'd say let him have the Gas Gas so he's able to learn from his own mistakes. You can't keep hem wrapped in cotton wool for all their lives. :-)

I'm 6ft 2ins and 115kg. Really do need to go on a diet... Anyway, I put on a stuffer spring and it transformed the bike. So highly recommend you getting a stiffer spring. About getting the shock serviced, I use Andy at Ohlins. He could probably sort you out a weight specific spring as well.

Spoke to the person who drives the washing machine and she said she washes the trials stuff at 40 degrees. Means nothing to me :-) I've been on tin-ter-net and ordered some No Toil for cleaning the filter in future. Cheers.

It's taken hell of a while fiddling to get my lads Beta 80 running well and in the end it was such a simple fix that I needed to update this thread. I'd seem to get it fixed, then it'd struggle on one section during a trial, so back to the drawing board. However, I changed the air filter during the week from a Twin Air to original Beta. Now it seems to be running well again. So I can only conclude that the Twin Air filter was a bit thicker than the Beta one and restricting air flow!!

I was looking for an old post of mine and I came across this one. Can't help about the disc, but it could be a warn space, or spacers in the wrong way around; i.e. left side on right side and right on left. It could also be a missing washer. You can download the parts list from Beta UK, this might give a clue if there is anything missing. http://www.beta-uk.com/index.php/downloads I can answer the clutch question. I did the Beta Clutch fix: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/28407-the-beta-clutch-fix/ On my lads Beta 50. It took quite a while, but I was able to take out half the springs without any consequences and it made the clutch much lighter. I also use Putline Light Gear Oil and replace it very regularly to make sure that it's still effective..

The bolts at the rear of the bash plate were loose because the thread had stripped. Also one of the engine mounts was loose. Seems to have lost the rumble (around the garden anyway). Give a proper go in anger next weekend.

Thanks for the ideas. I'm going to start looking for the problem tonight. I'm favourite on something loose. Just before this outing I took the clutch off and washed it out so I hope that I didn't tighten something properly. There again it's probably wishful thinking.

Thanks guys. Is it a main bearing even if it isn't happening all the time and just (sometimes) just about 1/8 turn off tick Over?

I went out practicing today and after a couple of hours I occasionally felt a rumble our unbalance in the engine. It wasn't constant and only at low revs. I'll have a look during the week, but in the mean time any ideas where to look?

Thanks for the reply dadof2. I cleaned and blew it out again tonight. The air filter also went through the washing machine with the riding kit. I'll drain the fuel out of the tank and put in fresh just in case it's got water contamination. Then see how it goes this weekend. If there is still a problem I'll try as you say with switching off the fuel. Glad that you think rings and seals are unlikely as well.

As JJ65 said that is a complete assembly with the coil. The part number is 31120-ND9-601. Unsurprisingly it is showing as unavailable from Dave Silver Spares or CMS in Holland. However, CMS show a price of 930 Euro!! In the past I've disassembled the assembly so that I could replace the o-ring. On more recent RTLs I've pushed the rubber grommet out of the hole, given it a thorough clean with cleaning fluid and put engine gasket around both surfaces before pushing it back into place. You will need to make sure that any excess is removed on the inside of the casing so that you don't get any contamination on the pulse generator (flywheel) pickup. Once it's sealed it seems to last for ages, then I do it again if it begins to weep oil.

Three weeks ago my boys Evo 80 had a touch of water in the carb, probably from splashing because he's not dropped it in any water. I cleaned it out at the trial with no problems and stripped it down to blow it out when we got home. Since then it doesn't seem like its revving out cleanly. I didn't note where the mixture screw should be, but it seems to pickup and run best at about 3 1/4 turns out. I've also changed the plug. Someone suggested it might be the rings and seals, but it's only just short of 2 years old and less than 80 hours of schoolboy novice route usage. Any ideas why it might note be revving out cleanly?

Hi Eddie I can't see me doing anything before next weekend. I've just ordered a small square of aluminium from the Internet which probably won't be here until next week. Let me know what you find.

Thanks Highscore. The photo and answer is perfect. Also gives me an idea of how my case saver should look, but I'm sure my metal work skills will make it look a bit more of a bodge job.

Thanks for the answers about the case saver. I've just ordered some aluminium sheet to make my own. I was going to glue the broken post onto the casing and then attach my homemade case saver. I was looking at it I was wondering if I should drill and tap the case to give it a better hold into position. I have two questions: 1. Is there much meat for me to drill and tap a hole where I’ve shown in the attached photo? 2. If the chain comes off again it could be more terminal so would a glued post be better anyway? I'd like thoughts. Cheers

Just got a TY mono and on the first trial out the chain came off and wrapped itself around the front sprocket breaking the mountings. Think I can glue the mounting back in place using liquid metal, but to stop it happening again. Does anyone do a proper case saver for the TY mono?

Hannu, Change the oil!! From experience doing similar once, a bit of water in the engine oil stop my Montesa starting. I tried drying everything and had a spark, but it wouldn't start. When I changed the oil it started within a couple of kicks.

As jj65 says you're unlikely to get these parts new. I don't think they're specific to the 1987 model RTL though. You might want to give Richard Allen a ring to see what he's got WRT the carb to air box connector. Depends what you mean by the linkage bush. If it's the bearing I've often been able to get these from a local bearing supplier if you take the old one in for measurement. If it the collars then you will probably need to get them made.

As jj65 says you're unlikely to get these parts new. I don't think they're specific to the 1987 model RTL though. You might want to give Richard Allen a ring to see what he's got WRT the carb to air box connector. Depends what you mean by the linkage bush. If it's the bearing I've often been able to get these from a local bearing supplier if you take the old one in for measurement. If it the collars then you will probably need to get them made.

Opposite of being helpful, but when I take my carb apart the pin just slips out. When putting it back together if I tip the carb on the side it falls out. Sounds like my pin might be warn!!

i just removed my standard pipe and slid in my Mitani pipe using the original gaskets.

Walkertrials, what would you call quality pads? I used to love Brembo pads, but can't seem to get them now. I've also found Goldfren don't work well when they get muddy or wet, which is quite often in the south.

I was running 10 / 43 gearing, normally I'd run 9 / 43. And yes I was in the stream bottom. When it stopped I changed the plug because I didn't think I'd run out that soon. Bl##dy pleased when someone came back with fuel and it started. I was wondering how I'd get it out!!

I don't know, but one of the back markers came back with my petrol can from the fuel dump and said that it was just over a mile. Felt like I'd pushed it three miles by then though (well a couple of hundred yards anyway). Next year a H&D tank sounds like a good answer, one of those plastic number plate tanks or a 1 litre Sig bottle from Millets.

I did my first Scott yesterday. I was most disappointed that I ran out of fuel before the first fuel stop. Is it normal for the 4RT to be thirsty? I have a S3 280 kit and programmable throttle body with the laia Sanz 280cc map. Want to go back next year to prove to myself that I can get much further, but want to understand why I might have run out of fuel first and this is the only thought I have at the moment.