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Did anyone find an answer to this question, because I want to do the same thing? Cheers

Hi and thanks for the comprehensive reply. It might take me a couple of weeks to reply because I'll probably fix it into my flat tank. I'll let you know how it goes. Cheers

I've managed to get a small fuel pump and aluminium holder for the 4RT. The only thing I need is the "bulb" which I assume is some kind of expansion tank between the pump and outlet. Is the bulb needed or can I just put a tube from the pump to the outlet?

I tried a flat sided Keihin carb on my RTL but just couldn't get it to run very well. I did notice that the Sherco 4T used a Keihin so posted this thread to see what changes that had: I never tried them deciding to go back to the standard carb but if yours isn't working they might be worth trying.

Whoop whoop. It worked and now I can start the Mont no problem. thank you guys. Most helpful.

Thanks guys. I'll give your suggestions a try later in the week.

Stripped down the 4RT for a new cam chain etc. and had some starting problems which I thought I'd solved but after a couple of weeks it won't start again. I think I've got the tick over screw in the wrong place because it almost wants to start but won't quite. There is a big blue spark on the plug. Where about should the tick over screw be set? On a carb they say "1 to 1 1/2 turns out" but what about the 4RT EFI.

I use Evans Waterless Coolant in all my bikes (http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk/Coolants/Performance/powersports). Don't think that it makes the fan run any less than normal coolant (don't know about Engine Ice) but it does have a much higher boiling point, so means if you overheat it won't boil over so loosing all the coolant. Although not a problem with the Montesa, it won't corrode magnesium because it doesn't contain any water.

I've got it started now. Checked all of the electrical connections, which were ok. So I adjusted the the tick over but 1/4 of a turn and it started ok. Obviously, putting in cam chain and rings must have mede it need just a touch more tick over.

Thanks for the suggestions. I know that the timing is ok because I put mostly back together then wasn't confident I'd set the timing right so it was all out of the frame again. To be honest I was struggling to get it going last night just before I was packing up so haven't done any fault finding. I was chewing it over in bed when I thought about posting the question. Looks like I'll be having a careful look at it tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes.

Just put a new cam chain and rings in the 4RT because I thought being 8 years old it was about due. I put the engine, exhaust, injector and throttle body back on the frame but not the air box. I thought it'd be a good idea to try starting it before I got much further. I kicked it over several times with it almost starting but not actually jumping into life. Is the 4RT "clever" enough to know the air box is missing so not start?

I wonder if anyone has ever thought of replacing the packing from the centre box with baffles so that you could use caustic soda in the future?

Hello, I don't know about the aftermarket springs, but with regard to fork oil the manual says: Quantity: 258 +/- 2.5cc Level: 160mm from the top of pipe From experience it's better to use the measurement from the top of the pipe because it provides better results. You should move the fork up and down several times before measuring to remove any trapped air. I'm sure that I used 10 weight oil. The manual says to add extra air to the forks to adjust for the weight of the rider to a maximum of 1.5 kg/cm. Hope this give you a starting point to then make some finer adjustments.

beta_blocker perfect. Thank you.

Not strictly Sherco but related. Is there any strip down or specification of the SPS Keihin carburettor on the internet? I have a RTL that I've tried to fit a PWK Keihin that has an awful flat spot at about 1/3 throttle and won't start. I've tried many different jets and combinations, but it doesn't get much better. This sounds similar to the early Sherco 4T and was solved by the SPS Keihin carburettor. I can find the parts on Splat shop, but noting about how the parts are fitted. I keep going back to the original Keihin PE carburettor, but this is now a challenge that I'd like to try solving, so this might be the next step.

I was wondering more about the UK.

I've seen (and it's been mentioned on this forum) about the 2017 300RR, but I've not seen anything in English. Also, I've not seen anything about pre-ordering a RR, the same as I did with the standard 4RT and Race Replica (Repsol). Is this an indication that Honda UK might not be bringing in the 300RR 2017 this year?

I went for a 280 rather than a 300 because someone said to me that 300s had overheating problems. It was due to the boring being so close to the water ducts, it could be helped by fitting a larger radiator. That's probably why the 300RR achieves the extra capacity by a longer stroke, which is also described on the excellent Montesa website (http://www.montesa4rt.nl/).

Thank you Thall1. The place I normally take my welding to doesn't do titanium. Probably because of the additional complexity that you describe.

One of the little heat shield brackets has fallen off my Matani exhaust. Does anyone know where I could get it welded back on?

LoL GasGas!! As you well know I'm used to 1990's bikes where you can buy a set of stickers for £10 and you can replace them when you get a bit of lifting or just because you can. So it's not something that I'm used to doing... When my lad can ride a 250 then I'll introduce him to the joys of riding the RTL in a trial rather than just around the car park. Eagle 8, knew I could find someone who thought 40C in the garage was chilly. Fxstbi and Eagle 8, thank you both for excellent guidance. Peterius, thank you for your support. I know GasGas and wouldn't expect anything different from a many who is into 1990's Spanish bikes rather than far superior 1990's Japanese works of art.

Over the past few days it must have got so hot in the garage that the stickers have started to lift on the edge in a few places. I tried to just stick them back down using masking tape to hold them in place but it hasn't worked. Would it be ok to use a bot of Evo Stick or does anyone have another suggestion?

Thanks for the advice. I'll do a few outstanding small bits & see where it takes me.

You never see many TLR250s unless they're for crazy money. So I wonder if anyone could advise what a fairly standard TLR250 with new wheels, steering angle and footrest mods would be worth? Only ridden it less than a hand full of times in the last 6 years and seems a shame to have it sat in the garage not doing what it should.

Thank you jrsunt. Just what I was looking for in an answer. How much play (next to no movement) and how to solve the problem (with genuine Honda parts). In the mean time the All Balls will be ok because there is less free play than before but next time it'll be genuine parts.