barfy

You never see many TLR250s unless they're for crazy money. So I wonder if anyone could advise what a fairly standard TLR250 with new wheels, steering angle and footrest mods would be worth? Only ridden it less than a hand full of times in the last 6 years and seems a shame to have it sat in the garage not doing what it should.

Thank you jrsunt. Just what I was looking for in an answer. How much play (next to no movement) and how to solve the problem (with genuine Honda parts). In the mean time the All Balls will be ok because there is less free play than before but next time it'll be genuine parts.

Yes, but didn't look or feel like any movement in either bearing so I replaced the bottom bearing figuring that it was most exposed. I'll get a spherical bearing for the other end of the shock. Are you saying there should be no movement?

Yes. I replaced all the linkage bearings, 'seals' and bushes using a All Balls kit.

I've searched the forums and not come up with a conclusive answer to the question of free play in the swinging arm. Should there be absolute zero, but with bearings, bushes, bolts and leverage it seems logical that a few 1/10mm would amplify to a few mm at the wheel. I've just replaced all the bearings in the rear suspension and there is 4mm of free play at the end of the swinging arm / wheel. I can't detect any movement in any of the linkage bearings and all of the bolts are tight. Is this about or should there no movement at all?

I run Mobil 1 or Castrol Power 1Racing 4T. Change it every 4 to 6 trials.

Ian, I have made something like the switch in the second diagram. I was wondering if the 1k resistor is a sufficient load to make the throttle body think that the switch is open, so on mode 1. The LED lights, but I can't tell the difference between the maps. I was wondering if there was a test port on the ECU (or somewhere) to confirm what mode the ECU is using. When the switch is open it is open circuit and when the switch is closed it is reading 1.07k ohms. I'm sure I could tell the difference between the maps when I had a simple switch, but to be honest it's I broke the simple (HRC) switch several months ago. I like the LED switch because it looks so much nicer than the HRC switch. Guys, I have the HRC disk and confirmed that the PTB had two different maps after programming. From memory one was for mud and the other was Laia Sanz 280, but I don't know which was which. I think that I'll have to make a minimum power map and maximum power map so I can definitely tell the difference. Then if I can't tell the differences then perhaps over the last few months lost sensitivity. Thank you for the replies so far.

Thank you Crazybond. I've build the switch as shown in the diagram and the LED illuminates. I'll create a couple of maps one all power and the other no power the load them into the throttle body. To be honest I can't remember what I've got on the two maps anyway, other than one is "muddy" because that's what we have around here. Cheers.

Spent ages looking through the site but can't find anything about adding any LEDs to see which map. The circuit has an LED which illuminates when the switch is ON, but there didn't feel like much difference between the maps like the plain switch. Half wonder of the load of the resistor for the LED makes the circuit look open to the PTB. I was looking for some kind of place to hook up a test meter or even oscilloscope.

A few months ago I broke the switch for my twin-map throttle body, so I took the opportunity to make a switch like the one on http://montesa4rt.nl. I fitted it for a trial today, but I couldn't tell the difference from one map to the other in the same way I thought I could before. I know that the switch is working ok. Is there a way to tell what map is selected on the throttle body?

The PTB comes with some comprehensive instructions and you need to follow them carefully. However, it's quite simple. You can download different maps from http://montesa4rt.nland if you're feeling adventurous you can modify them to see what difference it makes. Enjoy!!

I was going to suggest www.honda-trials.com, but the URL doesn't seem to be working anymore. Do you want the parts list or the workshop manual?

I took the opportunity to take a photo of the heat shield I made by making a mould from the exhaust. There are videos of how to make carbon fibre or fibreglass parts on YouTube. It uses the bolt hole on the frame for the top and folds under the bottom of the silencer this way it just clips off after a muddy trial.

I made one from fibre glass. Bought the bits off the internet and followed instructions how to make "glass reinforced fibre parts" on You Tube. I used the exhaust as the mould so the part was a bit tight. If I was going to do it again I'd want to make it a few mm larger than the exhaust so I could have room for heat insulation or air between the heat shield and the exhaust.

Redhubuk - yes a picture of the tool woul be great. Thank you.

Hi JJ. It is for my Montesa. I have a Nissin brake master cylinder I've been meaning to put on for a while so I think it could mean a visit to the Venhill website. Perhaps I should slip a hydraulic clutch slave cylinder for the RTL into the shopping basket while I'm there??? Thanks for the bleeding tips Rich. I'll give it a go on Saturday when I can take my time over the job.

Thanks Goudrons. The brakes weren't great so put in new pads (less than a couple of trials ago) so I think the pads are ok. I checked the fluid at the same time and it was almost gone in the master cylinder, so I put in more fluid. The brake went soft during the trial and the fluid was quite low again. This was what prompted me to replace all the seals. It holds fluid now and I've back and forward flushed the system to make sure there is no air. The brake isn't great, coming in to the bar more than I'd like. There is a little slack (about 1/2 cm) at the brake leaver before it moves the master cylinder piston. Putting in the calliper seals was a bit tricky, so wondered if there is a trick to putting them in.

I don't know about the US, but the parts are quite commonly available in the UK from the likes of Dave Silver Spares. The part numbers are: Cam chain 14401-427-003 Cam chain tensioner 14500-427-000 Cam chain guide 14550-427-000 It might be worth getting the sprockets at the same time: Sprocket 14321-440-000 Timing sprocket 14311-KJ2-300 You'll need a small puller to get the timing sprocket off the shaft. Don't try to pull it off the shaft without a puller because it can quite easily go off square and then it's really difficult to pull off. I found that sometimes you can get a little more tension if you take off the flywheel then you can get to the cam chain adjuster arm to get a bit more adjustment.

Is there a right way to put in AJP calliper seals? I just replaced the seals and pistons on my AJP 4 pot front calliper and the breaks is worse than ever. I did think that perhaps the seals are in the "wrong way" so not returning the pistons correctly, but is that possible? How do I identify if they're the wrong way around? Cheers

No Mark, but I would imagine that using them will bring the bars closer and increase the tiller-effect because the clamps aren't parallel to the yoke.

I had an RTL coil rewound by Westcountry Windings on an older RTL. This was back in the day when that was cheaper than buying an assembly for Honda.

Thanks for the replies. Reading the form carefully I noticed that the registration number isn't a mandatory box, so I'll try the form without and a nice letter.

I've lost my V5C and can't remember the registration number. I've downloaded a V62 form to get a replacement V5C, but can't answer what the registration number is... that's why I was looking for the V5C to make a new number plate. I've spoken to the DVLA and they said I can fill in a form to find out if the bike has previously registered, but that could take 8 to 12 weeks for them to do a search. Anyone know how I can find the registration number a bit quicker?

The manual recommended 258cc of oil which should be 160mm from the top of the fork leg. You should move each fork leg up and down a few times before measuring to make sure the air has escaped. I do this by bending a bit of wire so that 160mm dips into the fork. The oil is describes as SS8 hydrolic oil, which must be something close to 10 weight or I've heard of people mixing 5 weight and 10 weight, but I've never been that sensitive a rider!!

Compared to the TLM Eddie :-)