jrsunt

I think Honda are a bit over zealous with their service estimations, who realistically takes their engine apart to check piston rings every 15hrs. Surely stripping it down that often will do more harm than good. Mine did over 250 hard hours in 1 year, and it did another 5 years after that before anything engine wise was replaced, it only had the engine done because I had the generator cover welded and it sealed a oilway up and starved the top end of oil. Expensive welding job!!

My 2005 bike did 4ssdts and 6 scotts and pretty much everything else in between. Rebuilt engine before I changed for a new 1. No other bike could have stood that kind of abuse

They're probably the most reliable out there, as long as they've had oil and filter changes and the valves checked every now and again the engines are pretty bulletproof. Gearboxes and electrics are good, even on the older models. one engine rebuild in 6 years, but that was down to me and not build quality

Doug had a different frame geometry instead. I'm sure I've got a top yoke and bar risers that I used on my 04 somewhere. I'll have a look

If its customization of an existing engine, then the question should be, to your customers "How big is your budget"? Air cooled or water cooled, engine capacity, steel, alloy or titanium, carburation or EFI. The combinations could be endless.

light weight but reliable, powerful but smooth, properly engineered, responsive and easy to work on. At the moment, no manufacturer achieves all of the above. I personally like the honda engine

Long legs, nice a***, long dark hair and a cracking set of...... oh crap, I'm on the wrong website again.

Betabonkers, DONT DO IT. Unless your getting a 2015 repsol instead, or are you missing using your spanners?

I get out more on the onza than the mont these days, helps keep some bike fitness going. The small wheeled and big wheeled bikes ride differently, the small wheeled are more about hopping up everything, whereas the big wheels tend to work more like your mont, by rolling and riding up things. The big wheels will probably suit your size more tho. When you crash on these, it happens very very quickly, there isn't any time to bail off you just find yourself on the deck picking gravel out of your face.

I get a some help from a good family friend, which is greatly appreciated and to give him standard time in return meant as much to him as me. I certainly didn't expect to go that quick as its was only my 4th time on the bike since june! The last hour was the hardest I've ever done, Jonathan passed me and I knew I had to stay with him, sticking to his back wheel was hard, but catching back up with him after struggling and crashing in sections, while he did them was destroying my body. Shattered yes, didn't even make it to the presentation! it wasn't until the next morning when I realised done it. Well worth the pain.

Were you down in the stream bottom or did you make it out? Its horrible to push, you get nowhere. Just wondering what gearing are you running?

I've been very close to running out before and thats a 250 with the standard map. How close were you to petrol 1? There is a lot of fast flat out going on that stint, so it goes through some juice. Also simon wearmouth on a new 260 repsol ran out in the last fields and pushed it to the finish!

Those few extra drill holes maybe gave you the edge Maybe, but I'm sure there's a lot of red paint on the rocks around the course!

Ah, another 4rt cluth thread... should bring plenty of intrest! The mitani clutch pack is very good and is well tried and tested. I believe EBC do replacement plates but don't know of anyone using them yet. Using a good oil makes a big difference in the 4rt, there is a massive thread posted on the 2nd page of the montesa forum, probably worth a read too.

When running the 315 in the ssdt, we would put a 38 rear sprocket on, still ok for the sections but sat more comfortably on the roads. The std 41 should be ok if you don't cane it everywhere

Underbanks is back, not sure of reasons but its not been the same without it. Mechanical assistance is not allowed, but refuelling of rider is.

There aren't alot of places to easily meet support, crossing the road on the way to underbanks is a good opportunity early on, then its probably onto surrender where support is always welcome, then a good hours wait then onto bypass, again support is much welcome after doing one of the toughest hours ever on a troals bike. The next place would be whaw bridge then over to bridge end on the barnard castle road. After that we're on our way home and not many accessible places to meet, best would be reels head or hurst and then hopefully coming back up the start finish field. Have fun!!!!

A big thanks to Mark at H&D Racing for brilliant service, to go beyond what is expected. Top service, quality products. A must for anyone needing some bling snd performance products.

On the subject of drilling the airbox, To try solve the air issue I cut away the plastic top that sits on top of the filter, leaving only the rim and 4 bolt holes to secure the filter. This worked a little at altitude but completely ruined the running at normal altitudes. It may be worth a try, but get yourself a new filter top before hand. No need for a battery drill, a hack saw blade does just fine.

If you look on your cylinder head cover there is a breather pipe, trace it and it ends up in your airbox! Remove from airbox and blank the hole off with silicone or a bung. Put the breather pipe in your sumpguard. Its best removed from your airbox, as if you fall off and the bike continues to run whilst upside down, you will find your engine oil in your airbox. it may also be the bank angle sensor playing up, they have been problematic in the past.

To increase airflow, remove the flame retarder from the standard filter. The jitsie filter works even better. To help the bike in hot conditions we used to run a CR5EH-9 spark plug. This did help with the spluttering when it was exceptionally hot. If you want a more preventative option than a fix, go for the larger capacity radiator which keeps the overall engine temmperature down. Other than programming the throttle body, there isn't much you can do on the electrics side. Certainly worth doing the filter and plug as it plagued me doing the european rounds, although that was back on the 2005 bike, but I don't think much has changed since then. It may also be worth removing the head breather pipe from the airbox just to get that little bit extra clean air into the system.

Specific performance motorcycle engine oil is good for the clutch as it is designed to run in wet clutches, unlike the atf fluids, I use 5w30 motul 300v factory line, not cheap but works very well.

It was not tdc on the compression stroke, I've had the same problem before. Find tdc using a wire inserted into the spark plug hole, looking for the rocker arms moving and looking for the marks the flywheel. Its not as simple as it makes out in the manual.

It didn't work, it was just a stop go switch, couldn't be feathered or used for any resistance. The motor itself felt strong and quite progressive though.

I had a ride on it at the end, its got potential. Just needs a proper working clutch and it'll be pretty good.