jrsunt

84 miles and 1 stone that I knew was there.... sump guard, brake pedal and footrest slowed me down quite quickly I've taken it someone in the know, and they said the same. If they were to try and weld it, it would ultimately weaken the whole area, so its best left alone and weld as a last resort.

Its anodised not painted. The marks run from the brake pedal mounting point all the way down to the bottom of the frame, but only on the inside, which confuses me slightly because thats where the compression has taken place, I would expect to see those (stretch marks) on the outside where the tension has taken place. (correct me on the science please) I've snapped those off before on the mont, but never seen what has caused or the process of it breaking. C'mon all you engineers out there.

To all you people in the know, what do all these marks in aluminium mean. Frame took a massive impact around that area. Is it kaput?

Wow lineaway, how many years worth of barrels is that? What else do you put in while you have it stripped?

Ha ha yeah, that was dabills that he'd just taken out of his future mont, worked fine for quite sometime after.

I think Honda are a bit over zealous with their service estimations, who realistically takes their engine apart to check piston rings every 15hrs. Surely stripping it down that often will do more harm than good. Mine did over 250 hard hours in 1 year, and it did another 5 years after that before anything engine wise was replaced, it only had the engine done because I had the generator cover welded and it sealed a oilway up and starved the top end of oil. Expensive welding job!!

My 2005 bike did 4ssdts and 6 scotts and pretty much everything else in between. Rebuilt engine before I changed for a new 1. No other bike could have stood that kind of abuse

They're probably the most reliable out there, as long as they've had oil and filter changes and the valves checked every now and again the engines are pretty bulletproof. Gearboxes and electrics are good, even on the older models. one engine rebuild in 6 years, but that was down to me and not build quality

Doug had a different frame geometry instead. I'm sure I've got a top yoke and bar risers that I used on my 04 somewhere. I'll have a look

If its customization of an existing engine, then the question should be, to your customers "How big is your budget"? Air cooled or water cooled, engine capacity, steel, alloy or titanium, carburation or EFI. The combinations could be endless.

light weight but reliable, powerful but smooth, properly engineered, responsive and easy to work on. At the moment, no manufacturer achieves all of the above. I personally like the honda engine

Long legs, nice a***, long dark hair and a cracking set of...... oh crap, I'm on the wrong website again.

Betabonkers, DONT DO IT. Unless your getting a 2015 repsol instead, or are you missing using your spanners?

I get out more on the onza than the mont these days, helps keep some bike fitness going. The small wheeled and big wheeled bikes ride differently, the small wheeled are more about hopping up everything, whereas the big wheels tend to work more like your mont, by rolling and riding up things. The big wheels will probably suit your size more tho. When you crash on these, it happens very very quickly, there isn't any time to bail off you just find yourself on the deck picking gravel out of your face.

I get a some help from a good family friend, which is greatly appreciated and to give him standard time in return meant as much to him as me. I certainly didn't expect to go that quick as its was only my 4th time on the bike since june! The last hour was the hardest I've ever done, Jonathan passed me and I knew I had to stay with him, sticking to his back wheel was hard, but catching back up with him after struggling and crashing in sections, while he did them was destroying my body. Shattered yes, didn't even make it to the presentation! it wasn't until the next morning when I realised done it. Well worth the pain.

Were you down in the stream bottom or did you make it out? Its horrible to push, you get nowhere. Just wondering what gearing are you running?

I've been very close to running out before and thats a 250 with the standard map. How close were you to petrol 1? There is a lot of fast flat out going on that stint, so it goes through some juice. Also simon wearmouth on a new 260 repsol ran out in the last fields and pushed it to the finish!

Those few extra drill holes maybe gave you the edge Maybe, but I'm sure there's a lot of red paint on the rocks around the course!

Ah, another 4rt cluth thread... should bring plenty of intrest! The mitani clutch pack is very good and is well tried and tested. I believe EBC do replacement plates but don't know of anyone using them yet. Using a good oil makes a big difference in the 4rt, there is a massive thread posted on the 2nd page of the montesa forum, probably worth a read too.

When running the 315 in the ssdt, we would put a 38 rear sprocket on, still ok for the sections but sat more comfortably on the roads. The std 41 should be ok if you don't cane it everywhere

Underbanks is back, not sure of reasons but its not been the same without it. Mechanical assistance is not allowed, but refuelling of rider is.

There aren't alot of places to easily meet support, crossing the road on the way to underbanks is a good opportunity early on, then its probably onto surrender where support is always welcome, then a good hours wait then onto bypass, again support is much welcome after doing one of the toughest hours ever on a troals bike. The next place would be whaw bridge then over to bridge end on the barnard castle road. After that we're on our way home and not many accessible places to meet, best would be reels head or hurst and then hopefully coming back up the start finish field. Have fun!!!!

A big thanks to Mark at H&D Racing for brilliant service, to go beyond what is expected. Top service, quality products. A must for anyone needing some bling snd performance products.

On the subject of drilling the airbox, To try solve the air issue I cut away the plastic top that sits on top of the filter, leaving only the rim and 4 bolt holes to secure the filter. This worked a little at altitude but completely ruined the running at normal altitudes. It may be worth a try, but get yourself a new filter top before hand. No need for a battery drill, a hack saw blade does just fine.

If you look on your cylinder head cover there is a breather pipe, trace it and it ends up in your airbox! Remove from airbox and blank the hole off with silicone or a bung. Put the breather pipe in your sumpguard. Its best removed from your airbox, as if you fall off and the bike continues to run whilst upside down, you will find your engine oil in your airbox. it may also be the bank angle sensor playing up, they have been problematic in the past.