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The 250 or 260 will have more than enough power, if its really big, then hold it flat out till the valves bounce then your ready to launch. Dont worry about the few extra kilos, the suspension and chassis soak those up.
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While out on the course, a set of crossed flags usually means danger...... or big jump ahead!!
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They've got to hold their hands up to that one. Never seen that on 11 years worth of monts. I've always wondered why manufacturers continue using needle rollers in the linkage as there is so little movement for them. Would spherical bearings work better?
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If all the other bearings are intact and still in decent shape then get back on to your dealer, they should stand a replacement out of good faith and to keep a customer happy.
All warranty issues are done through the dealer network, so a frame no. Still in warranty (I'm sue your dealer can easily sort that) will be required, or the computer will say "no".
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Was it the rear end of the dog bone? And the bearing that sits closest to the small collar rather than the bush?
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Shoddy maintenance, not honda workmanship.....
plenty of grease every 6 weeks and theyll see the year no problems
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I think its unlikely to be fluid related due to heat as they'd be more reported problems.
Have you opened the clutch cover up to see if anything is a miss? Sounds like a plate issue.
Screw waiting for Honda, get new clutch pack, honda, mitani or whichever, get it working properly then sort the warranty after, and put the replacement kit on ebay or keep for spares.
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yeah, that was nexrt years scot practice.......
Shyted, sounds like you've got a dodgy clutch in there. Not usually that bad.
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Sump guard and mudguard bolts aren't the best, but mine have lasted 2 years so not really an issue. Clutch action is different, as is finding grip, but given time you'll get used to it. How everything else fits together is unrivalled, tolerances are perfect and they are generally a pleasure to own........ although I've just snapped a bracket off my silencer....
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Possibly the best trials display you'll see. Its not "look at what I can do". But very entertaining, well thought out and good family fun
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I've just got a set of std steels, they were £30 for the pair inc postage from craigs motorcycles.
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See if you can find a montesa 315r of a similar year. Honda build quality meant they were bullet proof and 2004 was the last of that model so the gremlins had been ironed out. Anything from 2001 would be best
2002 was the 1st year for the gas gas pro and they had real issues in the gearbox, chances are its all been changed so I'd ask to see receipts. The betas are better, but as said before, they were prone to electrical failures.
happy hunting
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I think they went to 32 spokes in 04
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Yeah, happy christmas to everyone....... surely this thread can't end up in an argument
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Yes bike is standard other than the stickers. I have to say they are very economic, it'll do nearly 30miles of road work on 2.1l of fuel on soft tires being ridden like a k..b. I bet on road tires and road gearing it would be blo8dy great fun
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Like guys states, its just evoultion, there's been problems with new technologhy ever since someone thought about doing something differently. I haven't had any problems with the fi on mont, never had the diagnostic kit plugged into it. How many times in 10 years would you have had some water in the carb?
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Defend the all day day...... perhaps its good for getting you out of the dodah when your on the point of no return. Other than that it has no place in outdoor trials, whether its club or british championship. It de-values a proper 1 dab ride.
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what about electrc bikes????????
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Stopping whilst footing is like riding with stabilisers...... cheating
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What stop permitted rules do you run in Belguim? I agree stop with foot down is an absolute joke and makes a mockery of other riders genuine 1 dab ride.
Stop and hop is generally ok, most clubs mark sections out sensible enough so riders dont have to stop for silly amounts of time,
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84 miles and 1 stone that I knew was there.... sump guard, brake pedal and footrest slowed me down quite quickly
I've taken it someone in the know, and they said the same. If they were to try and weld it, it would ultimately weaken the whole area, so its best left alone and weld as a last resort.
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Its anodised not painted. The marks run from the brake pedal mounting point all the way down to the bottom of the frame, but only on the inside, which confuses me slightly because thats where the compression has taken place, I would expect to see those (stretch marks) on the outside where the tension has taken place. (correct me on the science please)
I've snapped those off before on the mont, but never seen what has caused or the process of it breaking.
C'mon all you engineers out there.
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To all you people in the know, what do all these marks in aluminium mean. Frame took a massive impact around that area. Is it kaput?
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Wow lineaway, how many years worth of barrels is that? What else do you put in while you have it stripped?
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Ha ha yeah, that was dabills that he'd just taken out of his future mont, worked fine for quite sometime after.
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